Robert Parker En Primeur 2010 Scores

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Red Bordeaux

98-100. 2010 La Mission-Haut-Brion
One of the most powerful La Missions ever produced, the 2010, a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc, achieved 15% natural alcohol (even higher than the 2009's 14.7%). Nevertheless, the pH is normal which gives the wine an extraordinary precision, freshness and vibrancy despite its massive size. A blue/purple color is followed by a classic nose of blueberry liqueur, creme de cassis, spring flowers and crushed rocks. This monumental, full-bodied, incredibly rich La Mission-Haut-Brion will need a decade of cellaring and should last for 40-50 years. It is slightly fatter and creamier than its sibling rival, the 2010 Chateau Haut-Brion.

98-100. 2010 Lafite Rothschild
This exceptionally rich, thick Lafite came in with the highest level of natural alcohol (13.5%) ever achieved at Lafite Rothschild. To put that in its proper context, the 2009 and 2005 were 13.3% and in the hottest Bordeaux summer ever recorded in over 200 years, the 2003 achieved 12.8%. A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Merlot, all harvested between October 9 and 14, the 2010 exhibits an extraordinarily dense color, an unctuous texture and sweet black currant fruit intermixed with graphite, charcoal and truffle notes. A director Charles Chevalier told me, between July and the October harvest, Bordeaux had its driest weather since 1949, but it never got excessively hot. Hence the tiny berries, freshness and extraordinary precision of Lafite Rothschild. This superb effort will undoubtedly shut down slightly once it is bottled despite a pH of 3.8. It needs no building up because much of Lafite Rothschild has now become an obsession with the wealthy Chinese and most of it will undoubtedly be consumed before it ever hits its prime. Ideally, it should be cellared for 10-15 years and drunk over the following 50+ years

98-100. 2010 Latour
It’s too early to know for sure, but the 2010 Latour appears to be a huge and massive Pauillac fruit bomb from this property. With 14.4% natural alcohol, this blend of 90.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.5% Merlot and .5% Cabernet Franc, director Frederic Engerer told me it is unlike any other wine made at this estate. Possessing abundant amounts of everything, it even eclipses the 2009 in terms of power with a lower pH and higher total acidity. Representing only 36% of the production (making it even more difficult to find than usual, as this is the smallest of the Medoc first growths), it possesses an opaque black/purple color along with an extraordinary perfume of spring flowers, blueberry, blackberry and cassis liqueurs and hints of white chocolate as well as earth intermixed with vague charcoal and truffle-like components. With unreal concentration, full-bodied power, and a precision, freshness and refined level of tannins that are something to behold, this remarkable offering is one of my personal favorites of the vintage. It will undoubtedly shut down after bottling and enjoy 50-60 years of longevity

98-100. 2010 Petrus
One of the most concentrated and massive Petrus offerings I have ever tasted, yields in 2010 were 35 hectoliters per hectare and the grapes were harvested between September 27 and October 2. The wine achieved 14.5% natural alcohol versus the 14.4% that was attained in 2009. Petrus has reduced its use of new oak over the last decade, now averaging under 50%. The 2010's dense purple color is followed by classic aromas of mulberries, black cherries, black currants, licorice, mocha, caramel and truffles. Full-bodied, multi-dimensional and impressively pure with high but sweet, well-integrated tannins, this 2010 should drink well for 30+ years.

98-100. 2010 Ausone
Alain Vauthier’s wines have been so remarkable since he acquired full control of Ausone that readers probably feel I have thrown my critical wits away. However, the proof is in the tasting, and the 2010 Ausone is unquestionably extraordinary. There are 1,500 cases of this beauty, which exhibits an inky/blue/purple color as well as an exotic, seamless bouquet of incense, Asian spices, blueberries, raspberries and blackberries. Full-bodied with a striking liqueur of minerality as well as a magical combination of complexity, substance and nobility, it reveals softer tannins than I expected for this vintage, so perhaps it will be more accessible in its youth than recent Ausone vintages have tended to be. It is another prodigious effort from Vauthier that should be drinkable in 6-8 years and keep for a half century

98-100. 2010 Haut-Brion
Following a harvest that finished on October 10, Haut-Brion produced a 2010 that should turn out to be one of its all-time greats ... an amazing feat given what they have accomplished over recent vintages. A blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc that came in at 14.6% alcohol, the 2010 boasts an opaque purple color as well as a gorgeous perfume of scorched earth/burning embers, blueberries, black currant liqueur and crushed rocks. Full and opulent with nobility, finesse, purity and elegance, this amazing effort possesses extraordinary levels of extract as well as formidable, but sweet, well-integrated tannins. It requires 8-10 years of cellaring and should drink well for 50+ years.

97-99+. 2010 Pichon Longueville Baron
A prodigious, blockbuster effort from Pichon Longueville Baron, the 2010 is reminiscent of this estate’s titanic offerings in 1989 and 1990, but may be even greater with 30 years of longevity. Kudos to proprietor AXA and general director Christian Seeley. It was absolutely compelling on each of the three times I tasted it. Black/purple-colored with super concentration and richness as well as full body, it offers an awesome display of creme de cassis, blackberry liqueur, licorice, camphor and spring flowers. Stunningly pure and unctuously textured with high but sweet, well-integrated tannins, this superstar of the vintage is definitely a wine to purchase as a future. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2040.

97-100. 2010 Mouton Rothschild
The 2010 Mouton possesses the highest level of Cabernet Sauvignon (94%) of any wine this estate has produced. Combined with 6% Merlot, the wine achieved 13.9% natural alcohol. Under director Philippe Dalhuin, the harvest was accomplished between September 28 and October 13, and only 49% of the crop made it into this powerful effort. Reminiscent of the 1986, it is a 50-60 year wine that is not meant for consumers looking for near-term gratification. This backward, tannic, full-bodied, exceptionally promising 2010 reveals enormous weight along with extravagant levels of precise, fresh boysenberry and creme de cassis fruit. The abundant minerality is due no doubt to the fresh acidity. In need of at least 15 years of cellaring, it will undoubtedly remain an infant at age 25 (as does the 1986).

96-100. 2010: Pontet-Canet
2010 harvest took place between September 29 and October 17 (this vineyard is one of the few in Bordeaux that is fully certified as biodynamic) and the final blend was 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot that achieved nearly 15% natural alcohol. A remarkable, full-bodied effort (as was the estate’s 2009 and 2008), like so many recent vintages from proprietor Alfred Tesseron, it is of first-growth quality (some may even argue that it eclipses several first-growths). Dense purple to the rim, it offers classic notes of creme de cassis, graphite, subtle smoke and spring flowers. Multidimensional with massive concentration as well as vivid purity, precision and freshness, this is another astonishing effort from an obsessive/compulsive proprietor who is doing everything right. On the downside, this 2010 will require a decade of cellaring and should evolve for 50+ years. It will be fascinating to drink it side by side with the 2009 and 2008.

96-99+. 2010 Montrose
Jean Delmas believes this is one of the all-time great wines of Montrose, comparable to the 2009, 1990, 1989, 1959, 1947, 1945 and 1929. The 2010 harvest took place between September 27 and October 15, and the final blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot that achieved 13.75% natural alcohol, a fraction above the 2009's 13.7%. Somewhat reminiscent of the 1989, only even inkier and richer, the 2010 boasts a dense purple color along with glorious aromatics of blueberries, boysenberries, black currants and a crushed chalk-like minerality. The tannins are less intrusive than I would have suspected for such a young Montrose, but they are unquestionably ripe and well-integrated. Deep, full-bodied and massive, this beauty should be at its finest between 2018-2050.

96-98. 2010 L’Évangile
As I have been predicting, the Rothschilds are pushing l’Evangile to the highest level of the Pomerol hierarchy. Composed of 88.8% Merlot and 11.2% Cabernet Franc, the 2010 achieved 14.7% alcohol naturally, making it one of the few 2010s with lower alcohol than its 2009 counterpart (the 2009 had 15% alcohol and the 2008 had 14.5%). Most of that is due to the superb ripeness and the high concentration of Merlot in 2010. The berries were extremely tiny and the drought and cool nights in August and September gave the 2010 a lower pH and higher acidity than the 2009. For example, the 2010's pH is 3.7, the 2009's is higher and in 2000 it was 4.0. The dense purple-colored 2010 exhibits massive levels of black raspberries, Asian plum sauce, truffles and cassis. The wine is unctuously textured and remarkably fresh with a weighty richness (much like the 2009) but greater delineation. A marvelous effort, it, along with the 2009, may turn out to be one of the two greatest wines made by l’Evangile. The 2010 should drink well young yet last for three decades or more.

96-98. 2010 Le Pin
100% Merlot, aged in 100% new oak, but the Thienponts never want to hear that this is one of those “cult wines.” It has been widely imitated by others thanks to its enormous success, and as I have written many times, it is a relatively exotic take on Bordeaux. The 2010 is the darkest colored Le Pin I have ever seen – black purple, no doubt due to tiny yields and the very small berries that were the result of the drought of 2010. Uber-concentrated, with fabulous cassis and black cherry fruit, licorice, and notes of subtle smoke and toast, the wine is full-bodied, with sweet tannin and remarkable thickness/unctuosity. It should prove to be one of the longest-lived Le Pins made in its first 30+ years of existence. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030+.

96-100 2010 Beausejour (Duffau Lagarrosse)
Since the wunderkind team of Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt assumed responsibility for this extraordinary vineyard planted on the clay and limestone southern slopes of St.-Emilion, quality has soared. The 2009 (rated 96-98+) was the greatest vintage since the estate’s prodigious 1990 and the 2010 looks to be its equal. Composed of 73% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon made from tiny yields of 21 hectoliters per hectare, the 2010 achieved a remarkably high 15% natural alcohol. However, the high alcohol is completely hidden by the wine’s freshness, high acids and modest pH. A remarkable nose of blueberries, blackberries, crushed chalk, acacia flowers, licorice and truffles is accompanied by an unbelievable minerality on the palate, full-bodied power, amazing texture, a multidimensional personality and a 50+ second finish. One of the most profound wines of the vintage, this 2010 should drink well for 30-35 years or more

96-98+ 2010 Ducru Beaucaillou
Representing 45% of their total production, the 2010 Ducru will certainly compete with the efforts produced in 2009, 2008, and 2005. It hit 14% natural alcohol, compared to 13.5% in 2009 and 2008. A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot, the wine has a surprisingly lower pH (3.62) than the 2009, or the 2005 for that matter. A truly remarkable wine, with a dense purple color and a beautiful nose of creme de cassis, spring flowers and crushed rock, this full-bodied, sensationally concentrated wine has massive richness, high but very sweet tannin, and stunning purity and depth. Proprietor Bruno Borie seems to have pulled out all the stops in turning out an absolutely compelling effort that is the essence of Ducru Beaucaillou. It should drink well for 30-40 years.

96-98+. 2010 Cheval Blanc
The 2010 Cheval Blanc contains 13.8% alcohol, which is very high for this estate, and has an unusually high percentage of Cabernet Franc in the final blend (56% versus 44% Merlot). Yields were tiny, adding to the richness and intensity already instilled by the drought of summer and resulting tiny berries. In the style of some of the great Cheval Blancs of the late 1940s, this wine is rich, opulent, full-bodied, and at the risk of sounding like a broken record, as saturated purple in color as any Cheval Blanc I have seen. Mulberries, black currants, fresh minerals, and floral notes jump from the glass of this full-bodied, dense wine. With its tannins, good acidity and surprisingly modest pH, this should be an exceptionally long-lived wine, more backward and delineated than the fatter, more opulent 2009. Drink it over the next 30+ years.

96-98+ 2010 Troplong Mondot
An amazing wine, the 2010 is right up there with the extraordinary quality of 2009, 2005 and 1990. Made from yields of 32 hectoliters per hectare, the final blend was 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. A late harvest between October 4 and 16 with the last of the Cabernet Franc coming in on October 28 no doubt accounts for the wine’s powerful 15.5% natural alcohol. Of course, the anti-alcohol folks will make a big deal of this, but despite the high alcohol levels in nearly every 2010, there is freshness, precision, definition and absolutely no heat in the wines whatsoever. This stunningly rich effort offers abundant blueberry, black raspberry, licorice and graphite notes intermixed with a hint of espresso roast, a seriously concentrated, super-intense mouthfeel, full-bodied power, a complex, multidimensional texture and a nearly 50-second finish. It will require 5-6 years of bottle age after its release and should keep for three decades or more. Just prodigious!

96-100 2010 L’Eglise Clinet
Proprietor Denis Durantou has again produced one of Bordeaux’s most profound wines, which seems to be happening routinely at this tiny estate on the Pomerol plateau. Opaque purple to the rim, with a wonderfully sweet nose of mulberry and black fruit, hints of mocha and caramel, and some subtle background oak, the 2010 is very expansive, multi-dimensional, with stunning purity, richness and equilibrium. The finish is very long, with significant tannins, but they are beautifully integrated. This is a massive L’Eglise Clinet that will need 8-10 years of cellaring at the very minimum, and should keep for 40+ years.

96-98+ 2010 Pavie Macquin
Although not as potent alcoholically as its 2009 counterpart (14.5% in 2010 versus 15% in 2009), the 2010 is still a very big wine. The final blend was 85% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon and production was slightly more than 3,400 cases. This black/purple-tinged wine exhibits lots of minerality (from this terroir’s clay and limestone soils) as well as the entire spectrum of black fruits. Full-bodied and backward, it’s like drinking crushed limestone/chalk when you taste this intense, tannic, powerful wine. It will require 8-10 years of cellaring and should evolve for 35-40+ years

96-98. 2010 Vieux Chateau Certan
Alexandre Thienpont thinks 2010 is even more powerful and tannic than 2009. This is certainly a big wine, dominated by its Merlot component (86%, with the rest mostly Cabernet Franc). The natural alcohol level is 14.5%, slightly above 2009, but the pH is a healthy 3.7, and the wine, like so many 2010s, is a paradox. The alcohols are often the highest ever yet the acidities are fresh and lively, and the wine crisp and refined. This is a deep purple-colored wine, with loads of opulence and fat, a voluptuous texture and tremendous purity. The style is a modern-day version of what they probably achieved in 1947, 1949 and 1950. Thienpont attributes the wine’s freshness to the lack of any real heat wave, the drought, and the very cool nights in September. This wine should drink well for 20-40 years.

96-98. 2010 Chateau Margaux
Paul Pontallier was rattling off some interesting statistics about Chateau Margaux. The 2000 (a great, great wine) was 13.1% natural alcohol, the 2005 13.1%, the 2009 13.2%, and the 2010, the highest ever measured, 13.5%. That is still nearly one degree less than the Pauillac first-growth of Chateau Latour at 14.4%. This blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc (representing only 38% of the total production) has the classic, quintessential Margaux character of spring flowers, almost cool-climate precision, medium body, and a seamless integration of tannin, wood and alcohol. The blue and black fruit characteristics are present, and the wine restrained. The most measured and polished of all the first growths I tasted, it is also less concentrated than any of the other first growths, but the elegance is classic. The harvest finished on October 15, which was not their latest by any means. This is one of the few first growths of 2010 where the tannins are remarkably delicate and sweet, and the softness of this wine will provide magical drinking at a relatively early age, yet its balance and concentration will carry it for 20 or more years.

96-98. 2010 Branon
The fruit from this vineyard, planted on a small outcropping of gravel close to both Haut-Bailly and Malartic-Lagraviere, used to be blended with Haut-Bergey until the Garcin family decided it had such an impressive potential that it had to be culled out. A blend of equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, the production is a tiny 6,000-8,000 bottles. The debut vintage, 2000, was one of the superstars of that superlative vintage. The 2010 reveals awesome potential. It offers a dense opaque purple color along with a glorious as well as classic Graves bouquet of smoky barbecue scents, blackberries, cassis, tobacco leaf and plums. Deep, full-bodied and pure with singularity, freshness and precision, this stunning 2010 should be accessible in 2-3 years and last for 2-3 decades.

95-97+ 2010 Le Gay
Another extraordinary achievement from proprietoress Catherine Pere-Verge, who purchased this estate in 2004. A tiny production of around 1,300 cases achieved 13.5% natural alcohol and the final blend was 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. An inky/blue/purple color is followed by a distinctive perfume of liqueur of rocks, blueberries, blackberries, truffles and a subtle hint of oak. Extremely tannic, full-bodied, structured, masculine and backward with abundant minerality as well as ferocious extract and intensity, this 2010 requires at least a decade or cellaring. It should keep for three decades or more.

95-97 2010 Clos Fourtet
Although this superb 2010 is built differently, it is as impressive as the extravagant 2009 and the prodigious 2005. A blend of 85% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc made from yields of 31 hectoliters per hectare, with 14.5% natural alcohol, Stephane Derenoncourt is the consulting winemaker. One can not say enough about what proprietor Philippe Cuvelier has accomplished at Clos Fourtet over the last decade turning a perennial underachiever into one of the great wines of Bordeaux. Production from this 50-acre vineyard is nearly 4,000 cases. The inky/purple-hued 2010 displays a beautiful bouquet of incense, blueberry and blackberry liqueur, licorice and camphor. Full-bodied and opulent with more tannin and glycerin than the massive 2009, the 2010, while less sumptuous than the 2009, is a huge effort that is undoubtedly capable of lasting 30+ years.

95-98 2010 Clinet
A spectacular success in this vintage, this blend of 85% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Cabernet Franc achieved 15% natural alcohol. Sadly, there are only 3,400 cases primarily because of the small Merlot crop (yields were only 29 hectoliters per hectare). The wine’s opaque purple color is followed by an extraordinary bouquet of boysenberries, blueberries, black currants, licorice, truffles and a hint of asphalt. The wine possesses great intensity, a multidimensional mouthfeel, stunning glycerin and richness, and wonderful freshness as well as precision because of the vintage conditions. This massive Pomerol will age effortlessly for 30-35 years. Equaling what Clinet achieved in 1989 and 1990, it is the third successive great vintage for this estate.

95-97 2010 Cos d’Estournel
Representing 55% of the production and cropped at 35 hectoliters per hectare, Cos d’Estournel’s final blend in 2010 is 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot and the rest tiny portions of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Compared to the massive 2009 (14.6% natural alcohol), the 2010 achieved slightly less alcohol, but also a lower pH, which accounts for its more tannic, backward, huge style. An inky/purple color is accompanied by aromas of damp earth, black currants, blackberries, licorice and charcoal. Firm, thick and super-concentrated, it is another outrageously impressive wine that will require 6-10 years of cellaring. It should keep for 30+ years. It is somewhat 2005-ish in its structure and palate impression.

95-98 2010 La Conseillante
A monumental La Conseillante, the 2010 completes a remarkable decade for this estate. Quintessentially floral, this dense purple-colored effort reveals sweet flowery black raspberry and blueberry liqueur notes, more power, muscle and concentration than most vintages and exquisite elegance, purity and personality. Serious tannin lurks beneath the surface, but the overall impression is of a medium to full-bodied, strikingly deep, beautifully pure, well-balanced wine. Give it 3-5 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 25-30+.

95-97+ 2010 Saint-Pierre
A killer trilogy (2008, 2009 and 2010) has been produced by Saint-Pierre and the 2010 is unquestionably one of the all-time great wines this estate has yet made. A candidate for one of the top wines of this remarkable vintage, it offers a thunderball of fruit, extract, glycerin and intensity. Its black/purple color is accompanied by notes of melted licorice, camphor, blackberries, blueberries, creme de cassis and subtle background oak, amazing concentration, unbelievable opulence and intense, but sweet, well-integrated tannins. Moreover, because of lower pH’s and higher total acids across the board in 2010, and despite the high alcohols (this wine’s alcohol content must be 14.5+%), the overall impression is one of elegance, freshness and precision. This cuvee reminded me somewhat of a St.-Julien version of another of the superstars of the vintage, the 2010 Pichon Longueville Baron. The 2010 Saint-Pierre should drink well for 30-40 years.

95-97 2010 Palmer
The 2010 Palmer, which is 50% Merlot and the rest mostly Cabernet Sauvignon except for 6% Petit Verdot, is a huge, inky/purple-colored wine with notes of camphor, incense, blackberry, espresso roast, and subtle barbecue smoke. Extremely full-bodied and unbelievably powerful (14.5% natural alcohol, but with a rather standard pH of 3.75), this wine is going to be one of the great classics ever to emerge from this iconic chateau. It is extremely tannic, but the tannins are eclipsed by the extravagant concentration of fruit, unctuosity, and density of this wine. This will be a Chateau Palmer to put away for 10 years and drink over the following 40+.

95-98+ 2010 Pavie
Along with several other Medoc first-growths as well as Ausone in St.-Emilion and possibly Petrus and Lafleur in Pomerol, few estates have such a record for consistent quality as Gerard Perse’s Chateau Pavie. Made from a classic blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2010 was cropped at a ridiculously low 26 hectoliters per hectare, and the harvest occurred between October 12 and 19. Surprisingly, the alcohol is only 14.2% which is actually less than the 2008 and 2009. Since Perse acquired this estate in 1998, most Pavies have possessed off the charts richness and the 2010 is no different. It also reveals an opaque purple color, abundant notes of roasted coffee, blackberries, cassis, full-bodied power and sensational density, texture and length. There is also a boatload of tannin, so do not expect this 2010 to provide near-term consumption. Somewhat reminiscent of the 2005 in its freshness, precision and intensity, it requires 7-10 years of cellaring and should keep for 3-4 decades thereafter. I had this wine on four separate occasions and would rank it slightly behind the 2000, 2005 and 2009.

95-97 2010 Smith-Haut-Lafitte
A qualitative home run, right up there with the profound 2005 and more opulent 2009, Smith-Haut-Lafitte has turned in a remarkable performance in this vintage, but then again, so have many other chateaux. A blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, the wine has an inky/purple color and an extraordinary nose of graphite, blackberries, cassis, licorice, smoke, and camphor. The unbelievable skyscraper-like texture, stunning purity, and formidable intensity make for a remarkably rich, long, full-bodied wine that is classic Graves, but at the same time a staggering 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035+.

95-98 2010 Leoville Las Cases
As one would expect, this is a powerful, concentrated wine with 13.7% natural alcohol (compared to 2005's 13.2%). The pH is quite normal at 3.56, and its relatively high total acidity gives it a classic, fresh, yet backward style. Given how long vintages such as 1982, 1986, and I suspect, 2000 are taking to reach maturity, prospective purchasers of this wine should easily invest in a decade of cellaring, although I suspect it will be closer to 15 or more years before it reveals secondary nuances. A good 40- to 50-year wine, it is a dense purple, full-bodied style of Las Cases, with classic sweet kirsch, graphite and black currant fruit as well as hints of new saddle leather and subtle oak. Backward, layered and multi-dimensional, the wine is stunningly rich, but brooding. Forget it at least until 2020 or later.

95-97 2010 Larcis-Ducasse
An excellent effort, stylistically, the 2010 comes as close to the 2005 as one will find. The wine was made from remarkably low yields of 19 hectoliters per hectare and the final blend was approximately 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc. The late harvest (it finished during the third week of October) was managed impeccably by the dynamic duo of Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt. This phenomenal terroir, situated with a south/southeast exposition on the limestone soils of the Cote Pavie, has produced a wine with great individuality. Its dense purple color is followed by notes of black currants, sweet cherries, garrigue, licorice and incense. Already complex, it reveals formidably endowed, full-bodied flavors, a skyscraper-like texture, marvelous depth, moderately high tannins and excellent precision as well as freshness (which gives the wine that 2005-like personality). This 2010 will require 4-5 years of cellaring and should age effortlessly for 20-25 years thereafter.

95-98 2010 Gracia
It is a shame that former stonemason (now retired) Michel Gracia has so little wine to sell. With less than 5 acres of vines, and ridiculously low crop yields of 22 hectoliters per hectare, there will only be 5,400 bottles of the 2010 Gracia, which achieved 14.5% natural alcohol. Reminiscent of Ausone (even though the blend of 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon is different), the 2010 Gracia boasts an inky/purple color as well as an unmistakable rock-like liqueur, loads of blueberry, black raspberry and blackberry fruit and hints of camphor as well as truffles. With great intensity, full-bodied power, stunning length and texture and huge tannins, this cuvee needs 7-10 years of cellaring and should keep for three decades or more.

95-97 2010 Haut Bailly
Proprietor Robert Wilmers and general manager/winemaker Veronique Sanders have done an extraordinary job at this estate, which has now become one of the superstars of Bordeaux as recent vintages have admirably demonstrated. An opulently styled effort, the blue/purple-hued 2010 offers a sweet kiss of graphite, charcoal, black cherries, black currants and compelling forest floor-like notes. A seamless integration of acidity, tannin, alcohol and oak is found in this full-bodied yet delicate, precise 2010. There is plenty of tannin but it is well-hidden behind the extravagant quantity of fruit. Give it 5-7 years and drink it over the following 35-40 years.

95-98 2010 Leoville Poyferre
One of the prodigious wines of the vintage, the Cuvelier family has produced an outstanding 2010 that must tip the scales at 14.5+% alcohol. It boasts an opaque purple color in addition to a sweet perfume of spring flowers, black raspberries, creme de cassis and a hint of spicy oak. This seamlessly constructed St.-Julien possesses massive concentration, moderately high tannins, abundant glycerin, an unctuous texture, remarkably fresh acids and wonderful precision. It will benefit from 5-6 years of cellaring and last 30-35 years.

95-97 201 Lynch Bages
Over the last three vintages, Lynch Bages has returned with a vengeance after somewhat listless performances following their brilliant duo of 1989 and 1990. Much of the credit for this must go to Jean-Charles Cazes who has taken over for his father, Jean-Michel, one of the greatest ambassadors Bordeaux has ever had. The 2010 blew me away on each occasion I tasted it during my two week sojourn in Bordeaux. Tannic and concentrated, this huge Pauillac boasts an inky/purple color as well as impressive notes of creme de cassis, smoke, graphite and spring flowers. This dense, seriously endowed, monstrous Lynch Bages is reminiscent of some of the wines made at this estate in the 1950s, 1960s, 1970s and 1980s. It will require 4-5 years of cellaring and should be drinkable for 3-4 decades.

94-96 2010 Duhart Milon
This large estate (190 acres) has been on a qualitative rise for nearly a decade. A classic Pauillac, the opaque purple-colored 2010, a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot, reveals beautiful notes of creme de cassis, licorice, tobacco leaf and forest floor. Bigger and more muscular than most previous vintages, this full-bodied Pauillac possesses stunning density as well as intensity. Atypically high in alcohol for this property, it requires 5-7 years of cellaring and should age effortlessly for 25-30 years.

94-97 2010 Lascombes
While this large property is composed of a huge number of small parcels that must require military-like precision to harvest, the quality of the wines over the last decade has been remarkable. The 2010 may turn out to be the greatest Lascombes ever made. It boasts a dense purple color along with an extraordinarily uplifted set of aromatics consisting of blueberry liqueur, black cherries, subtle smoke, crushed rocks and restrained oak. Massive fruit, an unctuous texture, a skyscraper-like mid-palate and stunning definition (because of good acids and a modest pH) have resulted in a formidable wine that will benefit from 5-6 years of cellaring, and should keep for 30 years. A brilliant effort!

94-96+ 2010 Angelus
A blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Franc cropped at 32 hectoliters per hectare, the 2010 may not hit the peaks of the extraordinary 2009 or 2005, but it is another fabulous wine from proprietor Hubert de Bouard. It boasts an inky/blue/purple color along with abundant aromas of acacia flowers, blueberry liqueur, black raspberries, licorice and subtle toasty oak in the background. A notion of graphite emerges as the wine sits in the glass, which tends to be a characteristic of Angelus. Long, rich, dense and full-bodied with high but well-integrated tannins, it will rival the 1989 and 1990 as well as the 2009 and 2005 as one of the finest wines made at this estate. At present, the 2009 has a slight edge because of its more sumptuous texture. Nevertheless, the 2010 is a great wine with a future of at least 30 years!

94-96 2010 Malescot-St-Exupery
This estate, which has been on a qualitative crescendo for over ten years, has made a prodigious 2010 that ranks alongside their 2009, 2005 and 2000. A gorgeous fragrance of spring flowers, cedarwood, black and red currants and hints of spice box and subtle oak is followed by a generously endowed, full-bodied, opulent wine with layers of concentration, a restrained yet exuberant personality, superb fruit purity and a long finish. There is plenty of tannin, no doubt elevated alcohol and wonderful freshness as well as delicacy. This beauty should drink well for 25 or more years.

94-96 2010 D’Issan
Emmanuel Cruse has done a superb job at this moated castle on the southern approach to the appellation of Margaux. The dense blue/purple-tinged 2010 reveals notes of violets, blue and black fruits, a striking minerality, excellent purity, texture and length, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel and noticeable but sweet, well-integrated tannins. It should drink well in 5-6 years and last 25-35.

93-95 2010 Branaire-Ducru
Proprietor Patrick Maroteaux has completed a decade of brilliant performances at this chateau across the Medoc’s Route de Vin from Beychevelle and a stone’s throw from Ducru Beaucaillou, St.-Pierre and Gloria. A fabulous effort, the 2010's notes of raspberry jam, black currants, crushed rocks and spring flowers are followed by a wine of impeccable purity, medium to full-bodied power, sweet tannin and stunning texture and length. With superb richness and beautiful overall equilibrium, it will benefit from 4-5 years of cellaring and keep for 25 or more years.

93-95 2010 Gazin
Another remarkable effort from Gazin, the big, powerful, dense 2010 boasts an opaque purple color along with loads of black currant and kirsch-like fruit intermixed with licorice, caramel, mocha and toasty oak. This seriously endowed, broodingly backward cuvee requires 6-8 years of cellaring and should keep for three decades or more.

93-96 2010 Brane Cantenac
After nearly two decades of mediocre performances, Brane Cantenac has been doing impressive work over the last decade. While the 2010 may not eclipse the 2009 or 2005, it is an exceptional wine from proprietor Henri Lurton. A dense purple color is accompanied by a floral-scented bouquet revealing notes of licorice, graphite and red as well as black currants. Layered, rich and concentrated, this impressively constructed, seamless Margaux has plenty of tannin, but it is buried under the extravagant fruit and glycerin. This rich, pure, authoritative 2010 should drink well young yet keep for 25-30+ years.

93-95+ 2010 Pape Clement
Bernard Magrez’s flagship estate continues to produce consistently beautiful wines and that includes his sensational 2010. The fruit was harvested between September 24 and October 20, and the result is an opaque purple-colored blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that achieved 13.5% alcohol naturally. Subtle notions of smoke, graphite, oak, black cherries and blackberries jump from the glass of this impressively perfumed claret. Medium to full-bodied, strikingly elegant and less thick and intense than a structured vintage such as 2005, the 2010 possesses remarkably sweet tannin (sweeter than the 2005) as well as a full-bodied, long finish. It should be drinkable at an early age and keep for 20-25 years.

93-96 2010 Grand Puy Lacoste
The greatest Grand Puy Lacoste since the 2005, 2000 and 1990, the fabulous 2010 reveals all the hallmarks of this estate. It boasts a dense purple color along with classic notes of creme de cassis, blueberries, blackberries, crushed rocks and flowers, sweet tannin and an exceptionally full-bodied and multilayered mouthfeel as well as a boatload of tannin. Cellar it for a decade and drink it over the following three decades. Proprietor Xavier Borie’s 2010 recalls the 2005.

93-96 2010 La Lagune
Is this 2005 deja vu “all over again”? Proprietress Caroline Frey has elevated the quality at La Lagune since acquiring this estate, and the 2010 is another superb effort as well as one of the better values in Bordeaux. An opaque purple color is followed by an extraordinary perfume of black raspberries, black currants, licorice and subtle smoke and graphite. While uber-concentrated, full-bodied and pure, it retains both elegance and precision as well as a sensational 45-second finish. The suppleness of the tannins and stunning opulence suggest it will drink beautifully for 25+ years.

93-95+ 2010 Trotanoy
Should turn out to be as sublime as the 2008. It is a bigger, but more backward and monolithic effort with an inky/purple color as well as abundant black fruit and foresty characteristics. Made in a decidedly tannic, masculine, structured style, this wine is loaded, but a decade of patience will be essential for potential purchasers.

92-94+ 2010 Calon Segur
A higher alcohol content (13.8% versus 13.4% in 2009), but lower pH (3.7 versus 3.9 in 2009) has resulted in a concentrated, textured wine that requires a decade of cellaring. It will keep for 35-40 years thereafter. The 2010 harvest at Calon Segur occurred between September 25 and October 14, and the final blend was 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. A dense ruby/purple color is followed by notes of plums, kirsch, licorice, incense and herbs. Full-bodied, moderately tannic, pure, fresh and precise, this beauty will require lots of patience from prospective purchasers. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2050

92-95+ 2010 Pichon Lalande
I tasted the 2010 Pichon Lalande on three separate occasions, two consistent and one that underperformed, hence the question mark. A blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, it reveals an opaque purple color as well as a thick, unctuous style with fresh blackberry and cassis fruit intermixed with hints of graphite, herbs and coffee. The vintage’s tell-tale minerality is present in this structured, tannic, backward effort. It will require 5-6 years of cellaring and should age for 25-30 years.

92-94 2010 Rauzan-Segla
Only 45% of the crop made it into the 2010 Rauzan-Segla, which is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. This wine has an average pH of 3.6, but at 13.9%, the alcohol is the highest ever measured. The tannin levels in this wine suggest the great 1986 Rauzan-Segla, while the personality of the wine comes close to mirroring the 2005. Dense purple, with hints of menthol, blueberry, black currant and sweet, earthy notes, the wine is full-bodied and displays terrific purity, texture, and overall precision. The tannin levels are high, but the wine balances them out with its impressive level of concentration. This wine will probably need 5-10 years of cellaring when released and drink well for 30 or more years, given the fact that the 1986, at age 25, is still an adolescent.

92-95 2010 Giscours
It is a little unsettling to realize that 2009 and 2010 may be the greatest back to back Bordeaux vintages produced in the history of the region. The over-achieving Giscours has turned in a great performance in 2010, which possesses an opaque purple color as well as notes of licorice, black truffles, sweet blackberry and cassis fruit, flowers and soil undertones. It is very full-bodied and exceptionally opulent, fat and round, but the vintage’s acids, precision, high glycerin, alcohol and extract are all present. Give it 2-3 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 25-30 years.

92-94 2010 Haut Bergey
This estate is well-worth following given the fact that is always a realistic value and in most top vintages an over-achiever as well. Owned by the Garcin family, the 2010 Haut-Bergey (from a vineyard near Haut-Bailly) is composed of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot (unusual for this area). Possessing a deep ruby/purple hue as well as notes of creosote, charcoal, tobacco leaf, black currants and cherries, this sleeper of the vintage is opulent and luscious with a multilayered texture. Surprisingly forward with excellent freshness and depth, no hard edges, and a heady finish, it can be enjoyed over the next 10-12 years.

92-94 2010 Lafon Rochet

92-94+ Cantenac Brown

92-94 Chapelle d’Ausone

92-94 Grand Puy Ducasse

92-94 Gruaud Larose

92-95 Forts de Latour

91-93 Talbot

91-93 Clerc Milon

91-93 Clos du Marquis

91-93 Certan de May

91-94 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut Brion

91-94 Carruades de Lafite

91-93+ Leoville Barton

91-93+ Domaine de Chevalier

91-93 Gloria

91-94 Barde Haut

91-93+ Beau-Sejour-Becot

90-92 Beychevelle

90-92 Poujeaux

90-92 Langoa Barton

90-93 Le Petit Mouton

90-92 Alter Ego de Palmer

90-93 Kirwan

90-92 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux

89-92 d’Armailhac

White Bordeaux

94-97 Haut Brion Blanc
A blend of 54% Sauvignon Blanc and 46% Semillon, this singular, compelling white exhibits notes of orange blossoms, lemons, melons, crushed rocks, spice and flowers. It is a sensational, provocative, full-bodied dry white to enjoy over the next 40 years.

93-95+ La Mission Haut Brion Blanc
Composed of 81% Semillon and 19% Sauvignon Blanc, this 2010 exhibits crisp, zesty acids as well as a full-bodied mouthfeel offering lots of lanolin, sealing wax, honeyed Mandarin oranges and lemon oil. This sensational effort has 30-40 years of aging potential.

93-96 Pape Clement Blanc
A sensational blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Semillon with nearly 14% natural alcohol, this superb, honeyed effort exhibits orange marmalade, lemon custard and exotic tropical fruit notes.

92-94 De Fieuzal Blanc
A brilliant effort and one of the great dry whites of the vintage is this honeyed, complex, melony, full-bodied effort that should drink well for 25+ years.

92-95 Smith Haut Lafitte
Another phenomenal wine from the Cathiards, this rich 2010 exhibits lemon custard, melon, tropical fruit and a touch of smoky oak. It should last 20+ years.

92-94+ Domaine de Chevalier Blanc
Composed of 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Semillon, and in need of 8-10 years of cellaring, this is one of the most backward dry whites of the vintage with unbelievable minerality and personality.

91-93 La Tour Martillac Blanc
One of the strongest dry whites I have tasted from this producer, it exhibits plenty of fig, melon, licorice and honeysuckle notes.

90-92 La Clarte de Haut Brion Blanc
A blend of 83% Semillon and 17% Sauvignon Blanc, this effort reveals lots of oily citrus, orange marmalade, melons and honeysuckle characteristics. It should drink well young and last for 10-12 years.

90-92 Haut Bergey Blanc
Lemon custard, honeyed figs and melons emerge from this medium-bodied, impressively endowed wine.

90-92 Larrivet Haut Brion Blanc
This cuvee offers complex, forward fig, melon and honeysuckle notes as well as 10 years of aging potential.

89-91 Aile d’Argent Blanc
Crisp, elegant pineapple and smoky melon notes are present in this zesty wine.