Robert Parker
Robert Parker's 2009 Bordeaux En Primeur Scores
L'Eglise Clinet (98-100)
The 2009 l'Eglise Clinet may eclipse some of the other efforts made by proprietor Denis Durantou over the years. Harvested between September 14 and 28, this blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc is a powerful, almost uber-concentrated wine that tastes like an elixir of Pomerol with an incredibly unctuous feel. This dense purple-colored 2009 (which achieved 14.5% natural alcohol) is extremely powerful, but that power is concealed beneath a mountain of glycerin, fruit, concentration, and body. The purity and richness are off the charts, and the silkiness of the tannins is ethereal. This extraordinary wine possesses extremely high levels of tannin, but according to Durantou, they have almost disappeared because of the wine's amazing depth and richness. It will undoubtedly need a decade of aging after bottling, but it should last for 50+. It is a modern day legend in the making. (Tasted two times.)
Haut Brion (98-100)
There are 10,500 cases of the 2009 Haut-Brion, from a blend of 46% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 14% Cabernet Franc. For technicians, the highest ever natural alcohol, 14.3%, was achieved, with a pH of 3.9, which is about the same as the 1989 and 1990, as well as 1959. This is the kind of wine to send chills even up my spine, and I have been tasting here for nearly 30 years. An extraordinary nose of plum, blueberry, raspberry, crushed rock, and that intriguing floral as well as unsmoked cigar tobacco note (a classic sign of this terroir) is followed by a wine of creamy unctuosity reminiscent of 1989, but there is a freshness, vibrancy and precision that is historic and possibly unprecedented. Some graphite emerges as the wine sits in the glass, but the wine is very thick while at the same time precise and elegant. This is the quintessential expression of one of the greatest wine terroirs of the world. To reiterate, the good news is that there are going to be 10,500 cases of Haut-Brion in 2009, which is about 1,500 more cases than the 9,000 produced in 2005. This wine will probably need 7-8 years of cellaring when released and evolve as well as the 1959 has (which is still a perfect wine today), so we're realistically talking 50-75 years when stored in a cool cellar. (Tasted once.)
Hosanna (98-100*)
A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, this is one of the more ethereal and compelling efforts of the vintage. The 2009 Hosanna possesses great intensity, extraordinary balance, purity, and density, and a remarkable perfume of licorice, black fruits, spring flowers, incense, and Christmas spices. The wine hits the palate with full-bodied power, displaying silky texture, viscous, opulent mid-palate, high levels of glycerin, and considerable, but well-concealed tannins. In many ways, this is what some of the greatest 1982s tasted like (the tannins were virtually impossible to find at this stage). It should last 25-30 years. Kudos to Christian Moueix! (Tasted once.)
Lafite-Rothschild (98-100)
The 2009 Lafite Rothschild is a candidate for "wine of the vintage." Although the 2003 was powerful (12.9% alcohol), the 2009 came in at 13.4% alcohol. It is a blend of 82.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot. Only 45% of the crop went into the grand vin, which may be the most concentrated Lafite I have ever tasted. There is not a hard edge to be found in this inky/purple-colored wine displaying notes of charcoal, incense, black currants, and licorice. In the mouth, it represents a liqueur of black fruits offered in a remarkably full-bodied, incredibly elegant, lush style. Expansive, savory, staggeringly concentrated, and voluptuous as well as wonderfully precise with a hint of minerality, this sensational wine's technical numbers are off the charts. Is this a replay of the 1959? Although it will be surprisingly approachable in its youth, this is a 50-100-year wine. (Tasted once.)
Latour (98-100)
The 2009 Latour has off the charts concentration in addition to the highest level of tannin ever measured at the estate. The final blend was somewhat unusual in that it consists of 91.3% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8.7% Merlot, and clocked in at 13.7% alcohol (even higher than the 2003). Possibly a 100-year wine, it boasts an inky/black/purple color as well as an extraordinary perfume of super-intense blue and black fruits, graphite, and a liqueur of rocks-like minerality. Enormously full-bodied yet at the same time incredibly fresh, vibrant, and precise, it coats the mouth, and builds incrementally to skyscraper-like texture, and a whopping finish that lasts over a minute. This remarkable wine reveals a certain accessibility already, yet one senses that it will be even richer, more nuanced, and fuller by the time it is bottled in mid-2011. A monumental wine from a monumental vintage in the Medoc, this is our children's children's children's elixir. (Tasted once.)
Chateau Margaux (98-100)
Thirty-five percent of the crop went into the 2009 Chateau Margaux, composed of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The alcohol level of 13.3% is high, but not excessively so. A wine such as this is like the quintessence of terroir. A super, uber-concentrated perfume of creme de cassis and flowers cascades across the palate with a lightness of being despite massive concentration, a sumptuous personality, and an unctuous texture. I have never tasted a Chateau Margaux quite like this. It should be relatively drinkable at an early age, yet will last for 50-100 years. Oh my! (Tasted once.)
La Mission Haut Brion (98-100)
La Mission Haut-Brion has made so many great wines over the last 100 years, it would be stupid to say the 2009 somehow exceeds this estate-s great classics, such as 1929, 1945, 1949, 1953, 1955, 1959, 1961, 1982, 1989, 1990, 1998, 2000, or 2005. Certainly it will take its place in the pantheon of all the great La Mission Haut-Brions ever made. There are 6,000 cases of it, made from a blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc. The natural alcohol hit 14.7%, which far exceeds the perfect wines of 1982, 1989 and 1990. Opaque purple in color, with an extraordinary nose of blueberry liqueur intermixed with camphor, charcoal, hints of burning embers and truffles, and loads of black berry and black currant fruit, the wine has sublime concentration and purity, a finish that goes well past 60 seconds, and not a hard edge to be found in this sumptuous, almost over-the-top, full-bodied wine of enormous power and massive density and richness. An immortal effort, it should drink well for 50-100 years! (Tasted once.)
Cos d'Estournel (98-100*)
The 2009 Cos d'Estournel is one of the greatest young wines I have ever tasted ... in the world! An extraordinary effort I tasted on two separate occasions, this blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Merlot with a dollop of Cabernet Franc has a whopping 14.5% alcohol, but a remarkably normal pH of 3.69. Kudos to Jean-Guillaume Prats and owner Michel Reybier for this amazing wine made from yields of 33 hectoliters per hectare. It will be a legendary claret that should last for 50-60 years. A black/purple color is accompanied by aromas of graphite, ink, creme de cassis, blackberries, cedar, and incense. Full-bodied and unctuously textured, with an ethereal personality, tons of nuances, and a burgeoning complexity, it is an enormously well-endowed, fresh, perfectly balanced tour de force in winemaking. As mentioned above, it should drink well for 50-60 years. This wine possesses this vintage's classic characteristics of enormous power, massive fruit, and extraordinary freshness and precision - largely unprecedented, particularly for Cabernet-based wines in the Medoc. (Tasted two times.)
Cheval Blanc (98-100)
The harvest for the 2009 Cheval Blanc began in mid-September and finished on October 8. One of this estate's greatest wines, the 2009 (58% Merlot and 42% Cabernet Franc) came in at 13.5% natural alcohol (some lots were as high as 14.5%). The wine exhibits sumptuous aromatics of subtle menthol intermixed with caramel, black raspberries, mulberries, kirsch, and cassis. With a stupendous opulence and a fleshy mouthfeel, but no heaviness or fatigue, this dense wine is staggeringly concentrated, very full-bodied, powerful, and silky smooth. Irresistible already, it is almost frightening to think how compelling this beauty should be in a few years. (Tasted once.) Anticipated maturity: 2015-2050.
Clinet (97-100*)
The greatest Clinet since the incredible duo produced by the late Jean-Michel Arcaute in 1989 and 1990, the 2009 (tasted on 4 separate occasions) was off the charts in terms of quality and potential. Yields of 47 hectoliters per hectare were not particularly low, and the fruit used in the final blend (87% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon; 14% natural alcohol) was all harvested between September 21 and October 7. The wine boasts an opaque black/purple color in addition to a gorgeous bouquet of truffles, charcoal, asphalt, blackberries, blueberries, and meaty, smoky notes. This dense, unctuously-textured Pomerol is built like a skyscraper with multiple layers, sweet tannins, and enormous concentration as well as length. The good news is there will be 4,000 cases of this modern day legend in the making. It should drink well for 30-35 years. While it's hard to eclipse a 100-point wine (1989), the 2009 appears to be the finest Clinet has ever made. (Tasted four times.)
Trotanoy (97-100*)
I don't know what the 1961 Trotanoy tasted like in its youth, but the 2009 unquestionably surpasses the 1982 (which was the finest effort since the 1961) and eclipses anything made since. By far the greatest Trotanoy of my professional career, the 2009 boasts a dense plum/purple color as well as a meaty, earthy nose buttressed by enormous quantities of black fruits, cherries, and spice. Abundant glycerin, viscosity, purity, and elegance are all part of this massive, exuberant, powerful Trotanoy. One of the most prodigious wines of the vintage, it should come into its own in 8-10 years, and last 30-40 years thereafter. (Tasted once.)
Pontet-Canet (97-100)
It's no surprise that proprietor Alfred Tesseron has produced a possibly perfect 2009. He's been on a roll since 1994, and no other producer has done more work in the vineyard than Tesseron, who has moved to 100% bio-dynamic farming, reduced yields drastically, and instituted a draconian selection process. This vineyard, which sits on the high plateau of Pauillac adjacent to Mouton Rothschild, has produced a 2009 of extraordinary intensity and purity. It is outrageously concentrated, with silky tannin (the sweetest I have ever tasted in a Pontet-Canet as well as the highest measured), an opaque purple color, and copious notes of graphite, cassis, licorice, and subtle smoke and forest floor. Full-bodied and unctuously textured with striking purity and definition, it is a wine of colossal weight as well as elegance (in itself a poster boy for this paradox in 2009). This brilliant Pauillac requires a decade of cellaring despite its voluptuous texture. It should evolve for 50-75 years. (Tasted four times.)
Leoville-Poyferre (97-100*)
One of the stars of the vintage, it will be interesting to see if Poyferre ultimately eclipses Las Cases as the finest of the three Leovilles. The 2009 is even better than the 2000, 2003, and 2005. Its inky/purple color precedes a wine filled with extraordinary opulence, voluptuous texture, and sweet tannin. It offers both intellectual and hedonistic pleasure with layer upon layer of ripe fruit. Yields were 43 hectoliters per hectare, the blend is more than two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, and the natural alcohol is the highest ever measured at this estate, 13.95%. The high alcohol is not the least bit noticeable because of the extraordinary concentration and freshness possessed by most 2009s - a vintage characteristic that will serve these wines for decades to come. This is a wine to purchase by the case-load. It should drink well for 4-5 years. (Tasted three times.)
Leoville-Las Cases (96-100)
The 2009 is one of the greatest Leoville Las Cases I have ever tasted, which is saying something given the many compelling wines that have been made at this estate. A final blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Franc has resulted in a wine that appears to be a hypothetical blend of the 1982, 1986, and 1996. Its 13.8% alcohol is perhaps the only thing that sets it apart from those vintages, which had nearly a full percentage point less. The high alcohol is barely noticeable in this 2009, which boasts an inky/purple color, monumental concentration, and great clarity and purity of creme de cassis, black cherry, spice box, graphite, and wet rock characteristics. Extremely full-bodied with a boatload of sweet tannin nearly concealed by the wine-s power, glycerin, and awesome fruit concentration, this intense effort never tastes heavy or tiring. This remarkable St.-Julien should be accessible in 3-4 years, and will evolve for 40-50. (Tasted once.)
Haut Bailly (96-98+*)
The greatest Haut-Bailly ever made? One can't speak enough of the job Veronique Sanders has done in 2009, allied with the owner, the American banker Robert Wilmers, who has given her carte blanche authority. Tiny yields have resulted in the most concentrated Haut-Bailly I have ever tasted. Eclipsing even the 2005, the 2009 (a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc) possesses 13.9% natural alcohol. Dense purple to the rim, it exhibits a precise, nuanced nose of mulberries, black cherries, black currants, graphite, and a singular floral component. A wine of profound intensity and full-bodied power, yet stunningly elegant, and never heavy or massive, it builds incrementally on the palate, and the finish lasts over 45 seconds. Remarkably, there is not a hard edge to be found in this beauty. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc were harvested between October 7 and 14, which explains their phenolic maturity. The wine's extraordinary freshness, elegance, and precision are nearly surreal. This tour de force should age brilliantly for 40+ years. (Tasted two times.)
Ducru Beaucaillou (96-98+)
Can the 2009 Ducru Beaucaillou be better than the brilliant 2000 and extraordinary 2003 and 2005? Purchasers will have to decide for themselves, but this compelling effort is one of the all-time great Ducru Beaucaillous. It is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot that achieved 13.5% natural alcohol, and, remarkably, despite the fact that 90% new oak was utilized, not a hint of wood can be found in either the aromatics or flavors. This inky/purple-hued, unctuously textured 2009 reveals layers and layers of blue, red, and black fruits, and hints of licorice and spice box. Despite its substantial, massive size, it retains an elegant style, but will need 3-5 years of cellaring. It should last for 40+ years. (Tasted once.)
L'Evangile (96-100*)
The prodigious 2009 l'Evangile may be the greatest wine made at this estate during my 30+ years of tasting Bordeaux. Yields were 39 hectoliters per hectare, and the harvest was relatively long, with everything being picked at perfect maturity between September 11 and October 7. The estate is doing malolactic in barrel (a la Burgundy), and the final blend (95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc) achieved 14.5% natural alcohol. Amazingly, this cuvee is aged in 100% new oak barrels, yet no oak is present in the aromas or flavors. Readers should think of it as a better, richer, fuller, more alcoholic version of the 1982 l'Evangile. Dense, full-bodied, and opaque purple-hued, it boasts an extraordinary bouquet of spring flowers, blueberries, blackberries, and boysenberries. A blue and black mountain fruit character suggests coolness, but an intensity and voluptuous texture present the paradox of 2009. The wine has all the characteristics of a hot vintage in terms of power, texture, and richness as well as elements of a cool vintage in its precision, elegance, freshness, and vibrancy. Make no mistake about it, this is an enormous wine that is incredible to taste. Frankly, I could have drunk the entire barrel sample if it hadn't been my first appointment of the day (at 8:15 a.m.)! This wine should drink well for 30-40 years. Bravo! (Tasted once.)
La Fleur Petrus (96-98+*)
A mind-boggling effort, this is the finest La Fleur Petrus I have ever tasted. Layers and layers of black raspberry and black currant fruit intermixed with licorice, truffles, and earth are found in this dense ruby/purple-colored elixir. With extraordinary purity, decent acidity, melted tannins, and massive fruit along with elegance and precision, it should drink well for three decades or more. It is an amazing effort! Bravo to Christian Moueix and his team. (Tasted once.)
Gracia (96-98)
It's a shame so little of this wine is made by sculptor Michel Gracia from his nearly eight acres of relatively old vines (all planted in clay and limestone soils). Yields were a minuscule 19 hectoliters per hectare in 2009, and the final blend was 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. A wine of enormous potential as well as character, this powerhouse (14.5% natural alcohol) offers up striking aromas of crushed rocks (almost to the point of being a liqueur of minerality), spring flowers, and black fruits as well as layer upon layer of fruit and concentration. One of the most prodigious offerings of the vintage, it is very much in character with previous Gracias, which tend to have a kinship with Chateau Ausone (not surprising since Michel Gracia is a dear friend of Alain Vauthier, who lends some informal support in the winemaking). This brilliant 2009 should age effortlessly for 25+ years. (Tasted three times.)
Smith-Haut-Lafitte (96-98+*)
One can't say enough about what proprietors Daniel and Florence Cathiard have accomplished at this estate since 1990. Regrettably, I am old enough to remember how horrible the wines were before the Cathiards purchased the property. They have fashioned one of the most consistently outstanding wines, both white and red, over the last two decades, and their 2009 probably eclipses any previous performance. An opaque purple color is followed by an explosive nose of graphite, black currants, licorice, incense, and a hint of black tea. The wine hits the palate with extraordinary density, unctuosity, and richness, yet it never comes across as heavy or overbearing. Deep and full-bodied with sensational concentration as well as remarkable purity and precision, this brilliant wine possesses the high, but sweet tannins that are a hallmark of the vintage, and exceptional delicacy allied to massive power and richness ... a rare combination indeed. This prodigious effort should drink well for 30-40 years. Bravo! (Tasted five times.)
Montrose (96-100*)
1989 and 1990 deja vu all over again? If you think the 2003 Montrose (which merited 100 points) was powerful (13.2% alcohol), keep in mind that the 2009 Montrose came in at 13.7% alcohol. There is no sense of hotness, only extraordinary transparency and precision, allied to massive fruit intensity. A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this super-concentrated claret possesses a style reminiscent of the sumptuous 1990 combined with the structure of the 1989. The color is an opaque purple, the pH is a relatively normal 3.7, and the finish is endless. The flavor profile bursts with black currant, blackberry, and boysenberry fruit intertwined with hints of spring flowers and crushed rocks. Huge body, sweet tannin, and wonderful freshness make for one of the all-time great wines ever produced at Montrose. I hope to be drinking this wine with great pleasure before the Man comes for me. Kudos to Jean-Bernard Delmas. (Tasted two times.)
Mouton-Rothschild (96-98+)
This is the most backward and unevolved of all the Left Bank (Medoc) first-growths. In 10-20 years, the 2009 Mouton Rothschild should rank alongside the greatest vintages of the last three decades (1986 and 1982). Yields were a small 30 hectoliters per hectare, the final blend is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Merlot, and the finished alcohol is 13.2% (not particularly high in this vintage). The pH is 3.81, and the index of tannins, the highest ever measured, a whopping 20% higher than the next highest vintage. The tannins, while present, are silky and well-integrated, one of the hallmarks of the 2009 vintage. An inky/purple color is accompanied by classic aromas of creme de cassis, violets, and hints of graphite and background oak. The overwhelming impression is one of layer upon layer of fruit, full-bodied opulence, and good structure. It tastes as if it were 2-3 months old rather than a post-malolactic, fully assembled barrel sample ... it's that young, but so incredibly promising. A 50- to 100-year wine? Probably. (Tasted once.)
Pavie (96-100)
Another brilliant effort from Gerard Perse, this great vineyard (now just over 90 acres in size with the average age of the vines 45 years) was cropped at 28 hectoliters per hectare. It obviously missed all the damaging hail in mid-May of 2009, and was harvested between October 5 and 15. Everything here is done with extraordinary gentleness and precision. The result is a powerful, full-bodied, remarkably intense wine that is black/purple in color. It will require considerable patience, much like 2000 and 2005. It displays enormous creme de cassis and boysenberry fruit with some cherries, spice box, and crushed rock in the background. It is intense, with loads of minerality, huge extraction, massive power, yet again, the vintage character seems to have given it a freshness and vibrancy despite the wine's obvious viscosity. The minimum patience required is at least a decade, as this is another 40-year wine from Gerard Perse. (Tasted five times.)
Petrus (96-100)
Harvested between September 17 and the beginning of October, the 2009 Petrus reminds me of what the 1982 tasted like at a similar age. Sweet tannins along with extraordinarily pure mulberry and black cherry fruit intermixed with hints of licorice and truffle are found in this 2009 in addition to a voluptuous mouthfeel, an unctuous texture, and, for Petrus, relatively high alcohol of 14.2%. Stuffed, rich, and creamy-textured with a full-bodied, powerful, exuberant personality, it should be approachable in a decade, and last for 40-50 years. (Tasted once.)
Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (96-98)
The blend for the 2009 Pichon Lalande is dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, somewhat unusual at this estate which usually has more Merlot in the blend. As stated previously, the Cabernet Sauvignon reached levels of ripeness and intensity of flavor in 2009 never seen before in Bordeaux! The final blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot and a pH of 3.8 combines the best of a vintage such as 1996, in terms of structure, freshness, and precision, with the best of 1982, in terms of opulence, power, unctuosity, and thickness. The opaque purple-colored 2009 exhibits an intoxicatingly intense nose of red and black fruits, subtle smoke, charcoal, forest floor, and a hint of flowers. Unusually full-bodied for a wine from this estate as well as unctuously textured, voluptuous, and incredibly pure and precise, this dazzling wine should be drinkable at an early age, and evolve for 30+ years. (Tasted once.)
Vieux Chateau Certan (96-99*)
A blend of 84% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2009 exhibits an opaque purple color as well as a glorious bouquet of black currants, subtle smoke, charcoal, Christmas spices, and licorice. Massive, unctuously textured, and rich, but at the same time refreshing and vibrant, this extraordinary effort appears to be the finest Vieux Chateau Certan made in my lifetime. (Tasted once.)
Clos l'Eglise (96-100*)
After the brilliant 1998, 2000, 2001, and 2005, I didn't think proprietor Helene Garcin and consulting winemaker Dr. Alain Raynaud could do any better, but the 2009 Clos l'Eglise may turn out to be superior to the aforementioned vintages. An extraordinary wine of compelling intensity, opulence, and breadth of flavor, it possesses a dark purple color as well as copious aromas of sweet mocha, coffee-infused blackberry and black cherry fruit, and no hint of oak. Fleshy and extravagantly rich with terrific purity and precision, it is a very full-bodied, powerful Pomerol that should drink well for 25+ years. (Tasted two times.)
Branon (96-98+)
Having just had the 2000 Branon, which performed unbelievably well, this is definitely a wine for connoisseurs to seek out. The problem is that just under 500 cases were made, all from relatively old vines planted in the early sixties. This blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc is from a parcel of the Branon vineyard sandwiched between Haut-Bailly and Malartic Lagraviere in the heart of Leognan. The 2009 reveals smoky, earthy, barbecue notes intermixed with creme de cassis, blackberry liqueur, charcoal, and graphite. This hugely concentrated, intense, dense, full-bodied powerhouse possesses silky tannins, plenty of glycerin, an over the top, extravagantly rich mouthfeel, and a finish that lasts nearly 60 seconds. A potential legend in the making, this wine should drink well for 30+ years. (Tasted once.)
Beausejour (Duffau Lagarrosse) (96-98+)
Unquestionably the greatest Beausejour-Duffau since the 1990, this property has made a strong comeback under the brilliant management of Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt. One of St.-Emilion's greatest terroirs, it has underperformed in most vintages, although it generally produces very interesting wines because of its location and old vines. The 2009 is a whopper. A blend of 77% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 14.8% natural alcohol, there is no hint of its aging in 100% new oak barrels given the extraordinary concentration and texture of the fruit. An inky/purple color is accompanied by a sumptuous bouquet of spring flowers, black truffles, wet rocks, blackberries, and black currants. The wine builds incrementally in the mouth with an ethereal lightness and precision that is unexpected in view of its massive concentration, power, and intensity. One of the vintage's most compelling efforts, it should evolve for 30-40 years. Bravo! (Tasted three times.)
Angelus (96-100)
I tasted this three separate times, and on two occasions I thought it had the potential to be a perfect wine. The home estate of Hubert de Bouard, this 62+ acre vineyard produced a 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc blend in 2009, with yields of 20 hectoliters per hectare, and a whopping alcohol degree of 14.5%. Of course, the latter component is not even noticeable, as that is one of the erroneous myths about high alcohol in some 2009 Bordeaux. It just doesn't show, thanks to the wine's extraordinary concentration. This is a fabulous wine, with that tell-tale, dense, inky blue color that Angelus always seems to achieve. It displays an extraordinary nose of acacia flowers (or is it violets?) intermixed with blueberry liqueur, black raspberries, cassis, licorice, incense, and graphite. Full-bodied, viscous, with great intensity , vibrancy, and transparency, this is one of the all-time great wines from Angelus and a 21st century version of their 1989 and 1990. It should drink well for 20+ years – at the very minimum. (Tasted three times.)
Ausone (95-97+)
The 2009 Ausone, was produced at probably twice the yields of the absolutely remarkable 2008, but is another profound effort from Vauthier. Dense purple in color, with an almost liqueur of limestone intermixed with acacia flowers, blueberry, raspberry, and boysenberry fruit, the use of 100% new oak is completely concealed by the wealth of fruit and the lavish richness this wine exhibits. Nevertheless, there is a striking precision, minerality, and purity to Ausone. This wine might be far more drinkable in 7-8 years than the 2005 or 2008 will be with the same amount of aging. Nevertheless, any person lucky enough to latch on to one of the 1200 or so cases of this wine should realize it is going to evolve for 20-50 years. (Tasted once.)
Les Asteries (95-97*)
A tiny, single vineyard wine from Jonathan Malthus, the 2009 Les Asteries is the finest effort I have tasted among the nearly half dozen vintages offered to date. From a vineyard that was once part of Chateau Fonroque, it boasts a dense purple color, a big, sweet perfume of graphite, blueberries, and blackberries, full body, abundant glycerin, beautiful density and succulence, as well as a sumptuous, long (40-45 seconds) finish. Sadly, there are only 300-350 cases of this beauty. It should evolve for 20+ years. (Tasted once.)
Bellevue Mondotte (95-100)
There is virtually none of this wine to be found, as it is Gerard Perse's tiniest property, a five-acre parcel on a high limestone plateau at an elevation above that of Pavie Decesse and nearby Pavie Macquin. The vines average 47 years of age, and the blend here is 90% Merlot and the rest split between Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Yields were a meager 22 hectoliters per hectare, and the alcohol is 14.5%. This wine is fermented in oak tanks, malolactic in barrel, aged on its lees, then bottled unfined and unfiltered. A brilliant wine, opaque blue/purple in color, with an extraordinary nose of the essence of wet rocks intermixed with a floral perfume aspect, it displays enormous creme de cassis, mulberry, and boysenberry fruit, full-bodied opulence, viscous texture, tremendous purity, yet a vibrancy and vivacity due to the unusual vintage conditions, which have provided both massive concentration and huge tannins, yet clarity, precision, and elegance. This is a monster wine that should drink well for 30 or more years. (Tasted two times.)
Clos Fourtet (95-98)
This is a perennial superstar thanks to the efforts of proprietor Philippe Cuvelier and the estate's manager, Tony Ballu. This beautifully-situated, nearly 48-acre vineyard, high on the clay and deep limestone plateau just adjacent to the town walls of St.-Emilion, was harvested between September 28 and October 13, with yields of 34 hectoliters per hectare. The natural alcohol turned out to be 14%. A magical wine, it may have a hard time eclipsing the 2005, but it is another prodigious effort in its own right. The dense purple color offers up notes of white chocolate, blueberry, blackberry, crushed rock, and white flowers. Textured, full-bodied, enormously pure, and voluptuously textured, it is nearly too easy to drink because of the exquisite balance and seamless integration of all its component parts. This is a killer Clos Fourtet that should drink well young yet evolve for 20+ years. (Tasted five times.)
La Conseillante (95-98)
Now that La Conseillante is making a second wine with more severe selection, think of the 2009 as a version of the 2000 on steroids. This is never going to be a blockbuster wine, because the terroir just seems to produce silky, elegant wines, but in this case, the 2009 has an extra kick and level of concentration that is unprecedented. Inky bluish purple, with an extraordinary nose of framboise, black raspberries, spring flowers, spice box, and a hint of truffle, the wine has great depth, full-bodied opulence, silky tannins, enormous power and richness, but again, a vibrancy and uplift that are just freakish in this vintage. That's one of the great hallmarks of 2009 and one that will always stand out over the next 30 years. This wine should be drinkable in 5-7 years and last 40 or more. (Tasted three times.)
Le Dome (95-97*)
The flagship estate of Jonathan Malthus, Le Dome may be the St.-Emilion with the highest percentage of Cabernet Franc (80% in 2009, blended with 20% Merlot). A consistent winner, 2009 may turn out to be the finest wine he has yet produced from this vineyard (although the 2008 will give it a run for its money). A distinctive wine of great length and elegance as well as unmistakable power and authority, the 2009 exhibits beautiful floral, black raspberry, cranberry, cassis, and subtle smoke aromas. Building incrementally in the mouth, the wine reveals medium to full body, an ethereal, nearly sublime style, sweet tannin, and a velvety, opulent finish. This superb St.-Emilion should drink well for two decades or more. (Tasted once.)
Le Pin (95-98)
A great classic, the 2009 Le Pin (100% Merlot) displays unreal density and a profound flavor profile, but also reveals good structure and elegance. Even though it is aged in 100% new oak, no wood is detectable, which is a tip off to what we are dealing with in the most extraordinary 2009s. The oak and tannins are often totally unnoticeable because of the sheer magnitude and mass of fruit and glycerin. This 2009, made in the style of the 1982, should drink well for 25 or more years. (Tasted once.)
Pape Clement (95-97+)
A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc, the 2009 Pape Clement is not as dense or provocative as the 2005, but it is a worthy competitor. Tighter and more muscular than the 2005, the 2009 reveals an opaque purple color along with notes of graphite, blueberries, and blackberries, stunning richness, a full-bodied mouthfeel, and tremendous length and intensity. Some patience will be required, and I do not believe this effort will achieve the near perfection of the 2005, but it is another winner in this extraordinary vintage. Yields were 43 hectoliters per hectare, and the wine finished around 13.5% alcohol. (Tasted four times.)
La Mondotte (95-98+)
This nearly 12-acre parcel on the clay and limestone plateau above Pavie Decesse has produced a killer succession of wines ever since the debut vintage of 1996. The 2000, tasted in preparation for a big article on that vintage, is just out of this world, as is the 1998, and remarkably, a very underrated wine, the 1997. The 2009 looks like another phenomenal effort. Is it better than 2005, 2000, or 1998? It's too early to tell. A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, this wine tips the scales at an all-time high of 14.5% alcohol. Consultant Stephane Derenoncourt, who makes this wine for Stephan von Neipperg, said the crop yields were 18 hectoliters per hectare. The wine is painfully rich, but at the same time retains an extraordinary elegance and freshness. A full-bodied wine with plenty of raspberries, red and black currants, and a cool minerality, the wine is full-bodied, powerful, yet at the same time possesses sweet tannins, a very layered mouthfeel, and dazzling purity and length. It will need 5-7 years of cellaring and will drink well for three decades. (Tasted four times.)
Malescot-St-Exupery (95-97)
It-s going to take a lot for this wine to equal or eclipse the 2005, but it is a different style of wine. While the 2005 is slightly more structured, with more aggressive tannin, this has more fat, texture, and more tactile magnetism going for it. I suppose the best thing is to own both. Opaque ruby/purple, with a beautiful nose of charcoal, forest floor, and black fruits, the wine hits the palate with great intensity, a sumptuous texture, yet brilliant precision and purity. This is a superb wine that should drink well for 20-25 years. (Tasted three times.)
Chateau Valandraud (95-98)
Bad boy Jean-Luc Thunevin has possibly produced the finest Valandraud since his debut vintage in 1992. A blend of 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and a tiny shot of Carmenere, the wine has an opaque purple color and a beautiful nose of spring flowers, creme de cassis, blueberry, charcoal, and a hint of espresso. A seamless, full-bodied mouthfeel, striking purity, a skyscraper-like texture, freshness, and precision make for the most complex and noble, as well as most concentrated and massive Valandraud to date. This wine should drink beautifully for 25 or more years. Kudos to St.-Emilion's patron saint of garage wines. (Tasted two times.)
La Fleur de Bouard Le Plus (95-98)
From a 5-acre parcel cropped at 20 hectoliters per hectare, the 2009 La Plus La Fleur de Bouard (400-500 cases of 100% Merlot) boasts an inky/blue/purple color as well as a gorgeous nose of incense, graphite, blueberries, blackberries, ink, and spring flowers, awesome concentration, and sweet tannins. This is an enormously endowed, multi-layered effort of extraordinary intensity and length. It is a reference point for what can be achieved by a wine visionary in an appellation with little prestige. It should drink well for 20-25 years. (Tasted three times.)
Duhart-Milon-Rothschild (94-96*)
2009 may turn out to be among the greatest vintages ever in the Medoc. The 2009 appears to be the finest Duhart Milon yet made. The Rothschild family has invested heavily in this estate over the last 20 years in order to upgrade the quality, and their investments have certainly paid off handsomely. A blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37% Merlot, the 2009's opaque purple color is followed by an extraordinary perfume of creme de cassis, violets, graphite, and subtle wood. This full-bodied, intense, voluptuously textured, pure, seductive wine seems more open-knit and opulent than the more structured Carruades de Lafite. Nevertheless, the Duhart requires 3-5 years of cellaring, and should drink well for 30+ years. Bravo! (Tasted once.)
La Gaffeliere (94-96)
One of the old, historic vineyards in St.-Emilion, owned by a family that goes back to the 1400s, this wine has gone from strength to strength over the last decade. Cropped at 33 hectoliters per hectare in 2009, during a harvest that took place between September 29 and October 9, the final blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc will never produce a massive wine, but rather one of great elegance. The difference in 2009 is that this wine also has compelling intensity of fruit, and more opulence and viscosity than usual. At 13.5%, the alcohol is relatively modest compared to what many St.-Emilions achieved in this vintage. Dense purple, with terrific purity and a thickness without heaviness, black cherry, black currant, and super-concentrated cranberry and kirsch notes as well as hints of spring flowers and minerals are all present in this medium to full-bodied wine. It also possesses fabulous purity, texture, and transparency. Drink it over the next 30-35 years. (Tasted four times.)
Gazin (94-96*)
Ferocious extract, huge tannin, an opaque purple color, and enormous richness all make for a potentially brilliant wine from this vineyard, located on the plateau of Pomerol just adjacent to Petrus. Probably a late finisher of malolactic given its showing on three separate occasions, this wine, which is enormously endowed, very rich, and full-bodied, has a chance to be the best Gazin ever made. However, patience will be a virtue, as the wine will certainly need 5-8 years of cellaring. (Tasted three times.)
Lascombes (94-96+)
Midnight oil? Dense black purple to the rim, the 2009 Lascombes has enormous concentration, with loads of graphite, blackberry, and blueberry notes as well as hints of pen ink and truffle. The wine is super-intense, full-bodied, fleshy, and rich. This is another wine that will compete with the 2005, which is certainly the best Lascombes I have ever tasted. (Tasted three times.)
Lafleur (94-97)
The 2009 Lafleur's harvest began on September 16 and finished on September 28. Interestingly, the Guinaudau family said this vintage reminds them of the 1989. At nearly 14% alcohol, the 2009 is a potent effort revealing some characteristics of the 1982, but there is more structure in the 2009. The pH is only 3.6, which is a lot lower than the 1982, and the final blend was 53% Cabernet Franc and 47% Merlot. The wine exhibits a deep ruby/purple color, beautiful purity, sweet mulberry, boysenberry, kirsch, licorice, and stony notes, full body, an unctuous texture, a fresh, lively personality, and tannins that are more noticeable than in some of its neighbors. The oak component is completely concealed by the wine's extravagant richness and intensity. The structure suggests it will require a decade of cellaring, and it should last 40-50 years. (Tasted once.)
La Lagune (94-96)
I don't think anyone could possibly rate this higher than the 2005, which is certainly the greatest wine made at this estate since 1982. However, this is another blockbuster, gorgeously aromatic, with notes of subtle oak interwoven with perfumed black, blue, and red fruits. Its opaque purple color, the gorgeous elegance allied to compelling intensity of flavor, and its full-bodied opulence make for the quintessential expression of this terroir. This is beauty that will be relatively approachable in 3-4 years and evolve for 20 or more years. (Tasted three times.)
Domaine Saint-Pierre (94-98*)
This has been a fabulous wine over recent vintages, but I do not think many consumers have caught on. Of course, there is far less of this classified-growth St.-Julien than of any of the Leovilles, Beychevelle, Talbot, Gruaud Larose, or Branaire Ducru. Unbelievably powerful, rich, and impressive, this may be the finest St.-Pierre ever made. An inky/purple color is followed by notes of creme de cassis, spring flowers, and forest floor, a layered, full-bodied, powerful mouthfeel, perfect balance, and extraordinary richness, purity, and unctuosity. This great St.-Julien should hit its peak in 7-10 years, and last for 30-50. Bravo! (Tasted two times.)
Lynch Bages (94-96+)
The highest levels of polyphenols ever measured at Lynch Bages (20% higher than any prior vintage) are found in the 2009, which achieved 13.4% natural alcohol, and a normal pH of 3.64. Composed of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it is the greatest Lynch Bages since the outstanding duo of 1989 and 1990. The black/purple-tinged 2009 exhibits a glorious perfume of graphite, black currants, and subtle smoke, powerful, thick, unctuously textured flavors, huge yet sweet tannins, fabulous purity, and a finish that lasts 40-45 seconds. Five to eight years of patience will be required, but this is a 30-40-year wine from this popular estate run by the affable and highly respected Cazes family. (Tasted three times.)
Palmer (94-96)
The black/purple-colored 2009 Palmer exhibits a level of tannin that exceeds anything they have previously produced. The final blend is 52% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Petit Verdot, and the finished alcohol is 13.9%. It is hard to say this 2009 will turn out better than Palmer's extraordinary 2005, but it certainly will be different in style given the alcohol level and power of this vintage. Pure blackberry and black currant fruit notes intermixed with hints of incense, graphite, and wood are followed by an opulent, thick, juicy wine with plenty of structure, and enormous concentration, mass, and length. Four to five years of patience is required, but this beauty should last for three decades or more. (Tasted once.)
Pavie-Macquin (94-96+)
Yields here were 30 hectoliters per hectare, and the final blend 85% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon. The dynamic duo of Stephane Derenoncourt and Nicolas Thienpont produced nearly 4,000 cases of wine from this terroir, which has been promoted to a first growth in the St.-Emilion hierarchy. The 15% natural alcohol is rather shocking, because it is not the least bit noticeable. The wine is inky purple-colored, with loads of viscosity, an unctuous texture, and an enormous nose of charcoal, graphite, blackberry liqueur, and forest floor in a full-bodied, seamlessly constructed style. At the same time, the impression is one of a very unevolved, backward wine that has even more weight to put on and more nuances to reveal. I think this is one wine where the "plus" in the numerical rating will be very revealing. Forget it for 5-7 years and drink it over the next 30-40 years. (Tasted five times.)
Troplong-Mondot (94-97)
I tasted this wine four separate times, with three tastings extremely consistent, and one tasting showing slightly more noticeable and astringent tannin. Do I think it is going to be as prodigious as the 2005? No, but it is a compelling Troplong Mondot, and probably more approachable than the 2005 has been in its youth. This is a large vineyard, nearly 80 acres in size, and part of it had hail damage in May. They are late-harvesters, the Merlots were picked through October 10 and the Cabernet finished October 20, with very low yields of 30 hectoliters per hectare, no doubt due at least in part to the hail damage. Alcohols on lots chosen for the grand vin are very high, between 14.5 and 15.5. The wine is inky purple in color, displaying beautiful creme de cassis, licorice, subtle smoke and graphite notes, enormous body, juicy, viscous texture, good vibrancy, a skycraper-like, multi-dimensional mouthfeel, and a whopping long finish of 40+ seconds. This is a great wine, probably more hedonistic and voluptuous than the 2005, but ultimately a tiny notch below that virtually perfect Troplong Mondot, which still gets my nod as the best ever made. This wine should evolve for at least 30-40 years. (Tasted four times.)
Belair-Monange (94-96+*)
Christian Moueix and his son, Edouard, must be extraordinarily proud of what they have achieved in just a few years after taking over this property (previously known as Belair) that had been so mismanaged and underexploited by its previous owners. Yields were cut to 13 hectoliters per hectare in 2009, and this great terroir has finally revealed its true potential. Tasting like a liqueur of crushed rocks intermixed with raspberry jam and kirsch, the full-bodied, elegant 2009 is a quintessential example of a true terroir wine. Forget it for 5-7 years and drink it over the following three decades. (Tasted once.)
Domaine de Chevalier (94-96*)
The finest wine I have tasted from this estate in my 30+ - year career, the 2009 (64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot) from this hallowed vineyard in Leognan was cropped at 45 hectoliters per hectare and came in at 13% alcohol. It reveals an extraordinary, intense, pure, quintessential Domaine de Chevalier style, including silky tannin, dense plum, black currant, black cherry, floral, and graphite notes, terrific acidity, sweet tannin, and a full-bodied mouthfeel with no weight, but admirable precision and freshness. Consultant Stephane Derenoncourt has coaxed out all the elegance and complexity at this great site. A future legend in the making, this could be the best Domaine de Chevalier produced over the last half century. It should drink well for 35-40 years. (Tasted four times.)
Cantenac Brown (94-96*)
The greatest Cantenac Brown I have ever tasted, this monumental effort possesses enormous concentration, with loads of black and blue fruits intermixed with damp earth and forest floor. I have never seen a Cantenac Brown so seamless, so powerful, yet at the same time, so elegant and densely complex. They have certainly done something here that has not been accomplished over the last three decades I have been tasting this estate's wines. Opaque purple in color and full-bodied, this big-time sleeper of the vintage merits serious attention for the first time in my professional career. Kudos to the new ownership and team at Cantenac Brown. This wine should evolve over a 30-year period. (Tasted two times.)
Canon la Gaffeliere (94-96)
Proprietor Stephan von Neipperg has made so many terrific wines at this estate since the late 1980s, it's hard to say that the 2009 is going to turn out to be the finest, but did it show well on the four separate times I tasted it! A final blend of 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc, and a whopping 10% Cabernet Sauvignon (somewhat unusual for this area of St.-Emilion), the natural alcohol was 14%. Stephane Derenoncourt is the long-time wine consultant at all of Stephan von Neipperg's estates. Yields were shockingly low here, 28 hectoliters per hectare, and the wine is a beauty of both elegance and power. Dark ruby/purple, with notes of incense, sweet cedar, black cherry jam, cassis, and blackberry as well as licorice and subtle smoke, this wine has superb texture, a full-bodied mouthfeel, stunning concentration, and not a hard edge to be found. It is one of those remarkable 2009s with amazing power and density, but also tremendous finesse, precision, and freshness, an anomaly in itself. This wine should drink well for 15-20 years, based on the fact that the 1990, a vintage far lower in acidity and not nearly as concentrated, is still at the top of its game. Bravo! (Tasted four times.)
Canon (93-95)
This is the best Canon since 1982, and it is possibly capable of eclipsing that legendary vintage. It has taken a while for the proprietors, the Wertheimer brothers (the owners of Chanel and the Margaux estate Rauzan-Segla) to get Canon back to its former glory. Yields in 2009 were 35 hectoliters per hectare, and the harvest occurred between September 28 and October 5. The blend is 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc, with a natural alcohol level of 14%. Dense ruby/purple and full-bodied, with terrific blueberry and raspberry fruit intermixed with spring flower garden scents, with extraordinary density, purity, and a multi-layered texture, this is a prodigious Canon with sweet tannins and lots of viscosity. It should drink well for 30 or more years. Bravo! (Tasted three times.)
Le Carre (93-95+)
A tiny production (300 cases of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc) from a site near the limestone/clay soils of Clos Fourtet, this is a single vineyard offering from proprietor Jonathan Malthus. The 2009 offers a liqueur of minerality intermixed with blackberry and black currant fruit, sweet, subtle smoke, and a full-bodied, rich mouthfeel. The natural alcohol hit 14.4% in this blockbuster. It should drink well for 15-20 years. (Tasted once.)
Chapelle d'Ausone (93-95)
The second wine, La Chapelle d'Ausone, is remarkable, and in 2009, one of the great second wines of Bordeaux. Dense purple in color, with lots of incense, crushed rock, blueberries, and floral notes, the wine is dense, opulent, medium to full-bodied, and very pure and impressive. It should drink well for 20 or more years. (Tasted once.)
Certan de May (93-95)
The most powerful, finest overall wine made at this estate since their 1982, the muscular 2009 reveals a dense ruby/purple color in addition to meaty, smoky notes of black cherries, iron, truffles, loamy soil, and spice. Dense, full-bodied, and virile with a boatload of tannin, patience will be a virtue as this wine needs 5-6 years of cellaring. It should last for three decades or more. (Tasted three times.)
Barde-Haut (93-95*)
A tiny crop of 18 hectoliters per hectare (the result of the mid-May hail damage) lead to an opaque purple-colored, richest, most concentrated, biggest Barde-Haut made to date. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, the 2009 possesses an intense bouquet of mulberries, boysenberries, charcoal, toast, and graphite. Extremely full-bodied, thick, and viscous with good freshness and definition as well as sweet, but high tannins, this beauty can be enjoyed over the next two decades. (Tasted two times.)
Beau-Sejour-Becot (93-95)
A great effort from the Becot family and their consultant, Jean Philippe Fort, the 2009 is a blend of 70% Merlot and the rest equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. This is one of the highest-octane wines of St.-Emilion at 15% alcohol. Yields were very small (27 hectoliters per hectare) with the harvest taking place between October 10 and 14. The wine has an inky bluish/purple color and a big, powerful nose of raspberry confiture intermixed with crushed rock, licorice, and a very subtle hint of wood. A wine of enormous density, power, full-bodied richness and viscosity, it has good vibrancy and a boatload of tannin, but it is all seamlessly integrated in this colossal effort. Give it 3-5 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 30+ years. (Tasted four times.)
Brane-Cantenac (93-95)
Only 37% of the production made it in to the 2009 Brane Cantenac (slightly lower than most properties because the fruit was so good). This is a blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 7% Cabernet Franc, with a pH of 3.87 and finished alcohol of 13.2%. It is another offering that reveals no evidence of wood even though 70% new oak barrels were utilized. A dense plum/purple color is followed by a lovely perfume of flowers, boysenberries, black cherries, and black currants. Seamless in the mouth with stunning concentration, a seductive style, an exquisite Margaux delicacy, and levels of richness and intensity I have never before seen in Brane Cantenac, it should drink effortlessly for 30+ years. (Tasted four times.)
Clos Dubreuil (93-95)
One of my favorite garagiste operations, Clos Dubreuil fashioned an unctuously-textured 2009 filled with black cherry, ripe raspberry, and blackberry fruit interwoven with crushed rock, smoke, and graphite characteristics. Full-bodied with tremendous density and opulence as well as attention getting levels of texture, richness, and length, this superb St.-Emilion can be enjoyed during its first 12-15 years of life. (Tasted two times.)
Peby Faugeres (93-96)
Pushed to the limit of extraction and richness, the fruit for the 2009 Faugeres Cuvee Speciale Peby (100% Merlot cropped at 18 hectoliters per hectare) was harvested especially late, with the last grapes coming in during the third week of October. Half of the wine is fermented traditionally in tank, and the other half is fermented in small barrels. Exceptionally full-bodied with a black/blue color, it offers up a big, sweet kiss of vanillin intermixed with blackberry liqueur, graphite, earth, and charcoal. There is massive richness, and the elevated tannins are sweet and well-integrated. Along with the wine's freshness and moderate pH, that results in a wine that clearly defines all the special and distinctive characteristics of the 2009 vintage. (Tasted three times.)
Pavie-Decesse (93-96)
Gerard Perse's tiny 9-acre vineyard has a high density of vines and lots of age on them as well (48 years on average) on pure limestone soils, with a southerly exposure. The final blend here is the classic 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Unfortunately, there are only 1,000 cases from the tiny yields, and the wine, by St.-Emilion standards, is actually not that high in alcohol – 14.3%. A sign of the terrific minerality this wine possesses, crushed rocks jump from the glass of this inky bluish/purple-colored wine. Opaque to the rim, with full-bodied power, a liqueur of rocks intermixed with creme de cassis, spring flowers, black cherry, incense, and virtually no evidence of any oak, alcohol or tannin, the wine is fat, viscous, and opulent. It is a remarkable treat to taste so young, but analytically, the index of tannins is the highest Perse has yet had, even eclipsing the 2005. This wine should drink well for 30-35 or more years. (Tasted four times.)
Pichon-Longueville Baron (93-95)
An inky/blue/purple color is followed by aromas and flavors of incense, flowery black currants, and subtle smoke and oak. This full-bodied 2009, which exhibits wonderful intensity, purity, and length, is an exceptional effort, but in this vintage, it must take a back seat to some of its peers, such as Pichon Lalande, Pontet-Canet and Lynch-Bages, not to mention all the first-growths. Nevertheless, it is a beautiful wine that should drink well for 30+ years. (Tasted three times.)
Malartic-Lagraviere (93-95+*)
Progress has been ongoing at this vineyard, but proprietor Alexandre Bonnie has hit the proverbial home runs in 2009 with both his red and white wines. The best Malartic Lagraviere I have ever tasted, the 2009 is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. Cropped at a low 32 hectoliters per hectare, with a modest (by the standards of this vintage) 13.5% alcohol, the wine-s opaque purple color is accompanied by an unctuous texture, extraordinary elegance, lots of licorice, graphite, blueberry, black raspberry, and cherry characteristics, full body, terrific purity and length, and good acidity. This 2009 should easily evolve for 25-30+ years. Bravo! (Tasted four times.)
D'Issan (93-95)
Following the lustrous 2000 and 2005, the 2009 is another terrific effort from proprietor Emmanuel Cruse. Tiny yields of 18 hectoliters per hectare, 13.7% natural alcohol, and a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Merlot have resulted in a wine boasting stunning minerality along with notes of flowers, blueberries, and black currants. Full-bodied with silky tannin, a tremendous opulence, and levels of density and richness never before seen at this estate, this brilliant d'Issan should age for three decades or more. (Tasted two times.)
Leoville-Barton (93-95+)
This behemoth possesses massive extraction, an opaque purple color, huge density, extreme tannins, and a nearly endless finish. Everything is there, but the highly extracted style and off the chart tannins ensures that no one over the age of forty will ever see this wine hit full maturity. Nevertheless, there is a lot to admire, and it-s good to taste a wine that will not be ready to drink for 30+ years. No compromise! (Tasted two times.)
Les Forts de Latour (93-95*)
Perhaps the finest example ever made (including the extraordinary 1982) of Les Forts de Latour, the 2009 (61.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32.3% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot) is nearly as potent as the Pauillac at 13.5% alcohol. An opaque purple color is followed by notes of black fruits, crushed rocks, spring flowers, and hints of blackberries and smoke. Prodigiously rich and thick with an amazingly long finish of 50 seconds, this astonishing second wine will undoubtedly put on weight before bottling, and should last for 25-30 years. (Tasted once.)
Feytit Clinet (93-95*)
This estate's extraordinary progression in quality over recent years has culminated in the greatest Feytit-Clinet ever made. The inky/purple-tinged 2009 reveals loads of spring flower aromas intermixed with notions of charcoal, black currants, black raspberries, blueberries, graphite, blackberries, and hints of licorice and forest floor. A blend of 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc that achieved 14.5% alcohol naturally, consumers should jump on this exquisite Pomerol as the marketplace has not yet caught up with the quality emerging from this property. Yields were 34 hectoliters per hectare. Thick, unctuous flavors, full-bodied power, and sweet tannins suggest it will drink well for 25-35 years. Sadly, only 1,300 cases will be produced. (Tasted three times.)
La Fleur de Gay (93-96)
A 100% Merlot cuvee from the plateau of Pomerol, the 2009 La Fleur de Gay exhibits striking floral, blueberry, black raspberry, graphite, and subtle oak, charcoal, and camphor notes. This fleshy, full-bodied wine possesses outstanding purity, exceptional body, and admirable opulence as well as richness. It is the best effort from La Fleur de Gay since the 2000, 1990, and 1989.It should drink well for 25-30+ years. (Tasted once.)
La Fleur Morange (92-94)
The 2009 La Fleur Morange Mathilde is bottled early in order to emphasize the fruit character of the vineyard. With 14.5% alcohol, it is an exuberant, pure, hedonistic pleasure bomb filled with fruit and glycerin. Medium to full-bodied with no hard edges, it was fashioned from 100% Merlot from 50+-year old vines. (Tasted once.)
Latour a Pomerol (92-94*)
While this is not the 1961, 1959, 1950, 1948, or 1947, in my professional career, the 2009 is the greatest Latour a Pomerol I have tasted. Reminiscent of a hypothetical blend of the 1982 and 1970, it displays a dense purple color as well as a beautiful nose of black truffles, smoky meat, plums, black currants, sweet cherries, and loamy earth. A lush texture, full-bodied opulence, fabulous purity, and lots of power (nearly 14% natural alcohol) suggest it will drink well for 20-25 years. (Tasted once.)
Gruaud Larose (92-94+)
This is the finest Gruaud Larose since the 1990. Without a hint of brett in the 2009, it exhibits an opaque purple color along with a big, sweet nose of creme de cassis, new saddle leather, spice box, and boysenberries. Made in a rich, broad, savory, juicy style with lots of succulence, but none of the masculinity and ruggedness often found in this offering, this wine is loaded with concentration and extract. The tannins are largely concealed by the remarkable intensity of fruit and density. It should be drinkable in 7-8 years, and last for 30-40. (Tasted two times.)
Haut Bergey (92-94)
One of the best over-achieving, value-priced wines in Pessac-Leognan, Haut-Bergey's vineyard enjoys a superb location near Malartic-Lagraviere and Domaine de Chevalier. Composed of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Cabernet Franc and a dollop of Petit Verdot, the opaque purple-hued 2009 reveals a big, exuberant nose of charcoal, black currants, sweet cherries, and graphite. Dense and full-bodied, with beautiful purity, texture, and length, it should drink well for 20+ years. (Tasted two times.) P.S. I also tasted the brilliant 2000 Haut-Bergey in March, 2010, and it was still a youngster in terms of its development
Marojallia (92-94+)
An inky/purple color is accompanied by sweet aromas of licorice, blackberries, blueberries, violets, and graphite. This full-bodied, concentrated Margaux is unevolved, but the wine is bursting with potential. It may not eclipse Marojallia-s other-worldly 2005 or 2000, but this is a beauty with slightly more glycerin, heady alcohol, and plumpness than usual. It should drink well for two decades. (Tasted once.)
Pierre de Lune (92-94)
I love this wine, which is made by the regisseur Tony Ballu of Clos Fourtet. You would have to have head your head buried in the gravel and limestone of St.-Emilion not to know that Clos Fourtet has been one of the superstars of the appellation for nearly a decade now. This blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon (only 300 cases) was crafted from 34 hectoliters per hectare and had surprisingly modest alcohol for a St.-Emilion, 13.5%. Its terrific dense purple color to the rim offers up notes of wet rocks, blueberry, blackberry, spring flowers, and hints of charcoal and barrique. Opulent, even voluptuously textured, with terrific mouth-coating glycerin and an almost skyscraper-like texture, this is a seamless, beautifully rich, yet elegant (because of the freshness) style of St.-Emilion that should drink well for 10-15 years. It won't make old bones. (Tasted three times.)
Magdelaine (92-94+)
A more massive style than usual for this property (which normally produces elegant wines), the 2009 Magdelaine exhibits a classic kirsch liqueur note, but the color is more saturated, the tactile impression more full, meaty, and rich, and the wine is more loaded and dense. Filled with elegance as well as power, this beauty should drink handsomely for 25+ years. (Tasted once.)
Magrez Fombrauge (92-95+)
This opaque blue/purple-tinged 2009 (100% Merlot from the best parcel of the Fombrauge vineyard) possesses a bouquet of creosote, truffles, graphite, smoke, blueberries, and assorted black fruits. It is an extreme, super-extracted, full-bodied, powerful, concentrated St.-Emilion boasting massive levels of extract, tannin, and glycerin. It needs 8-10 years of cellaring, and should last for 25-30 years. The fruit was harvested between October 5 and 8. While this is clearly the modernist approach to winemaking, the 2000 tasted recently was showing fabulously well, giving all indications of being a 30-year wine. (Tasted two times.)
Monbousquet (92-94)
One of the most satisfying and popular wines among wine consumers in all of Bordeaux is Monbousquet, and even though it is not the best terroir, what Gerard and Chantal Perse have done with this property, which used to make wines that tasted like vegetal, watered-down Beaujolais, is remarkable. Yields in 2009 were 28 hectoliters per hectare, and the final blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon (the traditional blend here) tips the scales at 14.2% alcohol. Absolutely no new oak is showing, which is unusual for this wine, but that tells you how concentrated and textured the fruit is in this vintage. Dense ruby/purple to the rim, with plenty of exotic black fruits, jammy red fruits, some truffle, roasted herbs, and incense, the wine is full-bodied, luscious, exuberant, and opulent. It will be impossible to resist in its youth. This wine should drink well for 10-15 or more years, given the fact that a recently tasted 2000 was still an adolescent. (Tasted five times.)
Rauzan-Segla (Rausan-Segla) (92-95)
Composed of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon and 42% Merlot, this large estate appears to have produced their greatest wine since the 1986. The alcohols came in at 13.9%, and the wine reveals extraordinary density, power, and richness as well as explosive fruit, and terrific acidity, intensity, and power. Yet it tastes like a crisp, delicate Margaux. Yields were 40 hectoliters per hectare. This outstanding 2009 should age nicely for 35-40+ years. (Tasted two times.)
La Providence (92-95*)
This masculine-styled Pomerol exhibits notes of iron, earth, vitamins, black cherries, and blackberries. It is reminiscent of a Trotanoy in terms of personality and appellation character. Full-bodied and super-dense with a boatload of tannin as well as unbridled power, richness, and depth, this 2009 will require patience (5-7 years), but should last for three decades or more. (Tasted once.)
La Dominique (92-94)
The greatest La Dominique since the 1989 and 1990, the 2009 was fashioned by the brilliant duo of Jean-Philippe Fort (Michel Rolland's top lieutenant) and Jean-Luc Thunevin (the bad boy of St.-Emilion). Made from 100% Merlot (which must be a "first" for this estate), and with 14.3% alcohol, this will be a thrilling wine to drink over the next 20-25 years. Dense purple-hued with loads of black raspberries, black cherries, truffles, earth, and spice, it is an opulent, viscous effort with extraordinary intensity, purity, and richness, and a superb finish of nearly 45 seconds. It will be drinkable young, yet is capable of lasting a long time. Bravo! P.S. It is good to see this 58-acre vineyard return to form after a somewhat listless period of performances. (Tasted three times.)
La Tour du Pin (92-94*)
Pierre Lurton, the director of Cheval Blanc, has completely resurrected this estate since it was acquired by the owners of Cheval Blanc. A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc grown in clay and gravel soils, the 2009 La Tour du Pin is the finest wine I have ever tasted from this property. It reveals terrific fruit intensity along with a full-bodied unctuosity, great purity, sweet tannins, and a heady, long finish. The alcohol level must be more than 14% given the glycerin content and the wine's thickness. It should drink well for 15+ years. (Tasted once.)
Talbot (92-94)
This is the most impressive Talbot since the 1982 and 1986. It reveals an opaque plum/garnet/purple color as well as knock-out aromas of black fruits, cedar, incense, licorice, and a Provencal garrigue-like character. Substantial, sexy, and seductive, it is almost slutty in its exuberance and ostentatiousness. It was a thrill to drink this loaded St.-Julien. It should offer irresistible drinking over the next 20-25 years. (Tasted two times.)
Clos des Jacobins (92-94*)
Unquestionably the finest Clos des Jacobins I have ever tasted, the 2009's success must go to the highly regarded Hubert de Bouard, the proprietor of l'Angelus. Yields were cut considerably in 2009 because of the mid-May hail, which explains in part the stunning concentration and richness this cuvee possesses. Huge blackberry and cassis fruit notes intermixed with subtle smoke, forest floor, and barrique smells are followed by a full-bodied, opulently textured, thick wine with sweet tannin as well as tremendous length. This big time sleeper of the vintage should drink well for 15-20 years. (Tasted two times.)
Clos de Sarpe (92-94)
This property was hit by hail, and the resulting yields were a bankruptcy-inspiring 4 hectoliters per hectare (joking, of course, but it's almost impossible to make a living at those yields.) The wine is over-the-top in extraction, so over-sized and enormous it makes even the previous vintages, which were huge, massive, ferociously tannic wines meant for drinking in 50 or more years, look subtle and delicate. Is this too much of a good thing? I don't know, but the highest I could rate it is the score above. The final blend is 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, with 14.5% natural alcohol. This wine is massive and probably the most concentrated, backward, and tannic wine I tasted from this vintage. It is one of the most ferocious wines I have tasted in 30+ years in Bordeaux. There is a lot to like – the purity, the texture, the enormity of it – but anyone contemplating buying it should really forget it for at least two decades, and whether that makes market sense is not for me to answer, but rather a personal decision on the part of any purchaser. (Tasted four times.)
Clos la Madeleine (92-95*)
A major sleeper of the vintage, this estate, which is sandwiched between the famous premier grand cru classes of St.-Emilion, Magdelaine and Belair (now known as Belair-Monange), is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Unfortunately, production is only 700-800 cases from this 6-acre property. Hubert de Bouard made this cuvee. The wine's exuberant minerality showcases the fabulous limestone soils. Bouard's Midas touch is evident in its rich, concentrated, jammy blackberry and black cherry, licorice, and incense-filled aromatic and flavor profiles. Full-bodied and opulent, this big-time sleeper of the vintage should drink well for 20+ years. (Tasted two times.)
Clos les Lunelles (92-94)
This 20+-acre vineyard, acquired by Gerard and Chantal Perse in 2001, is planted on a clay and limestone plateau. The 2009, a blend of 80% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, was cropped at 22 hectoliters per hectare, and possesses 14.2% alcohol. One of the top wines of the Cotes de Castillon, it boasts an inky/purple color as well as tremendous opulence, body, purity, and density, plenty of sweet boysenberry and blackberry fruit, noticeable, but subdued wood, full body, and an unctuous texture. It should drink well for 12-15+ years. (Tasted four times.)
La Clotte (92-94)
One of my favorite St.-Emilion boutique vineyards, La Clotte's 10 acres of vines average 40-years of age. The 2009 (80% Merlot and the rest mostly Cabernet Franc) offers a beautifully sweet, ripe, opulent texture (typical for this estate) in addition to a dense purple color, and abundant notes of licorice, smoked herbs, meat, and black fruits. Full-bodied and viscous with great precision and fresh acids (the paradoxical characteristic of this vintage), it combines enormous fruit and extraction with off the chart tannins as well as remarkable finesse and elegance. This 2009 should drink well for two decades or more. (Tasted three times.)
Clos St Martin (92-94+)
This doesn't seem to me as powerful, concentrated, or striking as their 2000, 2005, or even for that matter, their 1998. However, this blend of 75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon tips the scale at 14% alcohol, which is an all-time record. The wine displays an almost crushed liqueur minerality intermixed with kirsch and black currant in a full-bodied, ethereal style that perhaps misses the pure density, concentration, and near-perfection of the 2005 or 2000. This wine will require patience, as the tannins are very elevated and not quite as well integrated and sweet as in most 2009s. Forget it for 5-10 years. (Tasted four times.)
La Violette (92-94)
Even though proprietor Catherine Pere-Verge and consultant Michel Rolland believe the 2009 is the better wine, I feel 2008 is the superior effort. Fashioned from ridiculously low yields of 20 hectoliters per hectare, the 2009 (100% Merlot) achieved 13.5% natural alcohol. La Violette appears to be the strongest wine in Catherine Pere-Verge's portfolio as it is richer than Le Gay. Soft, round, and opulent with a dark ruby/purple-tinged color, it offers up notes of sweet raspberries, black cherries, flowers, truffles, and a hint of lead pencil shavings. The 2009 will offer seductive drinking in 3-4 years, and should last for 15, but if I were a betting man, my money would be on the 2008 (and don't forget about the brilliant 2007). (Tasted three times, inconsistent notes.)
Croix de Labrie (92-95)
It's too bad there are only 300 or so cases of this wine, made from 100% Merlot. I just had a bottle of the 2000, which was an off-the-chart, awesome wine with sumptuous texture. The 2009 strikes me as a worthy competitor to their brilliant 2005. Almost tasting like blackberry or blueberry ice cream with a hint of raspberry syrup on top, this opaque ruby/purple wine is pure and totally seductive. The 2009 offers more glycerin, power, and alcoholic potency, but the sweet tannins, the velvety texture, the beautiful purity are all there to admire and consume. It should drink well for 10-15 years. (Tasted two times.)
Branaire-Ducru (92-95)
Only time will tell whether the 2009, another great effort from Branaire, will eclipse the 2005 and 2003. Certainly at 13.6% alcohol it is the most powerful Branaire ever made, and the final blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot showcases what a great vintage 2009 is for Cabernet Sauvignon. An inky/blue/purple color is followed by raspberry, boysenberry, crushed rock, graphite, and floral notes, and an opaque, broad, dense, substantial, impressively structured wine without any hardness. It requires 4-5 years of cellaring, and should last four decades or more. (Tasted two times.)
Bon Pasteur (92-94)
Another terrific offering from well-known oenologists Dany and Michel Rolland, the 2009 may or may not eclipse their 2005 and 2008, but it offers wonderful notes of caramel, mocha, black cherries, and black currants in a seamless, full-bodied, opulent style. It possesses a dense ruby/purple color, lots of glycerin, superb purity, and a textured, long, concentrated mouthfeel. As always, the brilliance of this team transcends its terroir in Pomerol. Enjoy the 2009 Bon Pasteur over the next 15-20 years. (Tasted once.)
Beychevelle (92-94)
This is the finest Beychevelle since the 1982. The opaque purple-hued 2009 displays beautiful floral notes intermixed with notions of black raspberries and creme de cassis. The fruit hits the palate with a medium to full-bodied richness, and the wine possesses sweet, velvety tannins, stunning purity, and a layered mouthfeel that builds incrementally, combining power, concentration, density, and elegance. This 2009 should hit its stride in 5-7 years, and last three decades or more. A beauty! (Tasted three times.)
Bellevue (92-94)
A blend of 91% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc, this wine, which is made under the administration of Hubert de Bouard, tips the scales at 14.5% alcohol. Loads of chalky minerality from limestone soils are obviously present in this wine, which has a dense purple color, a viscous, full-bodied mouthfeel, huge fruit concentration, power, and structure. From yields of 28 hectoliters per hectare, the wine is rather massive and backward in the mouth. It looks terrific and could turn out to be superior to their great 2000. However, patience will be required, as this wine needs 5-7 years of cellaring, but should last three decades. (Tasted four times.)
Carruades de Lafite (92-94+*)
Calon Segur (92-94+)
Cantemerle (92-94*)
L'Arrosee (92-94)
La Chapelle de la Mission Haut Brion (91-94*)
Certan Marzelle (91-93)
Chambrun le Bourg (91-93)
Clos du Marquis (91-93)
La Dame de Montrose (91-93*)
Vrai Canon Bouche (91-93*)
Destieux (91-94*)
Trottevielle (91-93+*)
Vieux Chateau Mazeret (91-93)
Clos St Julien (91-93+*)
La Croix de Gay (91-93*)
Clos de l'Oratoire (91-93)
Seguin Pessac Leognan (91-93*)
Serenite de Bernard Cuvee d'Exception (91-93)
La Tour Figeac (91-93)
La Tour Carnet (91-93*)
Reserve de Comtesse de Lalande (91-93*)
Prieure-Lichine (91-93)
Sanctus (91-93)
Rouget (91-93*)
Le Moulin (91-93)
Magrez-Tivoli Cuvee d'Exception (91-93)
Pavillion Rouge du Chateau Margaux (91-93)
Les Pagodes de Cos (91-93)
Le Petit Cheval (91-93*)
Pauillac (91-93*)
Nenin (91-93*)
Joanin Becot (91-93)
Haut-Condissas (91-93*)
Grand-Puy-Lacoste (91-93)
Larrivet Haut Brion (91-93*)
Lafon Rochet (91-93*)
Laforge (91-94)
Larcis-Ducasse (91-94)
La Fleur de Bouard (91-93)
De Fieuzal (91-93+*)
Fombrauge (91-93*)
Fonplegade (91-93)
Fonroque (91-93*)
Fontenil (91-93*)
Le Gay (91-93)
Franc Maillet Cuvee Jean Baptiste (91-93)
Giscours (91-93*)
Gloria (91-93*)
Grand-Mayne (91-94)