Neal Martin

Neal Martin's 2009 Bordeaux En Primeur Scores

If you would like to view individual appellations please select one of the headings below.

St Estèphe › Pauillac › Saint Julien › Margaux › Pessac-Léognan/Graves Rouge › Pessac-Léognan/Graves Blanc › Pomerol › St Emilion › Sauternes/Barsac

St Estèphe

2009 Chateau Calon-Ségur 91-93
Tasted at the château. This has a very strict nose with brambly black fruit, wild hedgerow, a touch of plum and Mirabelle with cold stony aromas developing with further aeration. The palate is medium-bodied, firm tannins, good balance, just a little tough at the moment, briary and blackberry, a very saline finish with moderate length. Very taut, coalescing nicely in the glass, just a little hard on the finish. It will interesting to see whether this softens with age: perhaps a little less oak would have served this redoubtable Calon-Segur better? I will remain prudent with my score for now. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Cos d'Estournel 89-91
Tasted twice on separate occasions at the property. Stylistically, the Cos d'Estournel sets itself apart from the entire Left Bank, though I am uncertain whether this is a positive thing. Coming in with an IPT of 99 and tangible 14.5% alcohol, it is endowed with an extremely rich, decadent nose with macerated black cherries, cassis, a touch of crème de menthe, melted chocolate and a hint of fig. This is an extremely powerful nose that bears more relationship with the Douro than the Gironde. It is endowed with Leviathan tannins that form a massive, arching structure, moderate acidity, the power seeming to dominate the finish at the expense of a little finesse. This is a Cos d'Estournel that wants to make a bold impression. Leaving it for 15-20 minutes there is a change in the glass, becoming rounder and more harmonized, certainly some of the heat dissipating and yet one has to question whether stylistically, it has forsaken its identity as quintessential Saint Estèphe? Another sample with one hour decanting with a little smoother and yet still showed a little hardness and alcohol on the finish. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Les Pagodes de Cos 87-89
This is very deep and limpid in colour. The second wine of Cos d'Estournel has an intense nose of blackberry, smoke and tobacco, with a touch of Saint Estèphe tertiary aromatics. A second sample is more lifted and glossier. The palate is full-bodied, a lot of extraction, pure blackberry, bilberry, spice and a touch of liquorices. Huge grip on the finish with just a hint of sweet dates. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Haut-Marbuzet 90-92
Tasted at a négociant. This has a typical Haut-Marbuzet bouquet: soft and rounded, very plush with unashamed exotic fruit interlacing the red-berries, hints of honey and marmalade. The palate is full-bodied with grippy tannins, very toasty at the moment with the new oak dominating. But there is good balance on the finish, a firm backbone here and the persistency is linear but long. Very fine.

2009 Chateau Lafon-Rochet 91-93
A sample taken on 23rd March tasted at the property. A blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% vin de presse, a pH of 3.65 and alcohol 13.5% with 50% matured in new oak. This has a tightly wound that unfurls nicely over 15 minutes, a nice minerality here, really exposed at the moment. Blackberry, a touch of raspberry, wild hedgerow, very pure and refined. The palate is medium-bodied, firm tannins, quite tight at the moment, very focused, gentle grip, and racy acidity towards the finish. Very Cabernet dominated finish, more structure than usual thanks to the higher percentage, perhaps just needing to flesh out on the finish, although that should come with extended barrel ageing. (N.B. A second sample at a négociant showed more flesh and suppleness towards the finish) Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Meyney 90-92+
Tasted at a negociant. There is just a little over-ripeness on the nose here: blackberry, a touch of prune and dried apricot/fruitcake, although the definition is fine. The palate is medium-bodied with good grip, furry tannins, black fruit laced with tar and cedar, good depth on the powerful, ripe finish. If this Meyney can lose that tincture of sur-maturite on the nose (and instinct tells me it will), then this could be the best Meyney in years. Bravo! Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Montrose 95-97
Representing 72% of production, a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, cropped between 17th September and 5th October, 13.7% alcohol and an IPT of 98 and 3.7 pH. this has a ripe blackberry, boysenberry, oyster shell and briary nose that soars from the glass. Fine definition with a very tangible mineral component. The palate is full-bodied with smooth tannins, very powerful with superb definition, great sense of tension here. There is a great deal of panache in this Montrose, layers of black fruit interwoven with graphite and earthy notes towards the long finish tinged with a touch of cardamom. Sophisticated and regal. A modern day '89? Tasted March 2010.

2009 La Dame de Montrose 87-89
A blend of 82% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, this has a very agreeable nose of saturated black cherries, redcurrant, a touch of bilberry, The palate is compact, tight, very powerful, a little dynamo. Firm tannins on the finish, just a little hardness at the moment but it should mellow and soften by the time of bottling, I would expect, broaden and fan out. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Les Ormes de Pez 90-92
Tasted at Chateau Lynch Bages, this Ormes de Pez is a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, matured in 40% new oak, this '09 Les Ormes de Pez has a deep, garnet colour. The nose is very pure, very focused, tightly would at first, a certain "strictness" to this Saint Estephe. Not as earthy as other wines, subtle aromas of black cherries, a touch of cassis, cedar and sandalwood. Good definition, but despite coaxing it is relatively closed at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite peppery on the entry, nicely balanced, masculine as usual, a saline note towards the finish that is quite linear at the moment. This is like a tightly coiled spring but it should drink well after 6-8 years year of ageing, which this wine usually needs. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Petit Bocq 91-93
Tasted at Vintex. This has an exotic, yet well defined nose with black cherries, apricot, damson and a touch of cassis. Quite pretty, although it does not reek of Saint Estephe. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, good acidity, lovely balance and a great deal of finesse and focus towards the lithe,

2009 Chateau Phélan-Segur 90-92
Tasted at the château, UGC and negociant. Sweet black plum and briary on the nose with moderate definition, not quite the brilliance of other Saint Estephe 2009s, but it coalesces nicely in the glass. Very pure, some chalk dust notes developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied, very taut, citric acidity, a little chalky towards the finish. Moderate depth. I like the focus here, the energy, though I think this is a wine that will show much better 4-5 months down the line. Cabernet dominated finish with just a touch of white pepper right on the finish. Certainly much better than the 2008 tasted alongside. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Sérilhan 91-93
Tasted privately and at Vintex. This has a very pure, very well defined nose with gorgeous floral scents married with black cherry, a touch of cassis, plum and creamy new oak. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a nice edginess to this Saint Estephe with a very well judged, beautifully delineated finish. This is a very classy Serilhan: pure delight and a name to watch out for in the future. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Tour de Pez 90-92
Tasted at Vintex. The nose is rather closed compared to other Saint Estephes: blackberry, raspberry leaf and some oyster shell scents developing with time, yet it remains pinched. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, nicely balanced with good delineation, leading to a pleasing cedar and earth tinged finish with good depth of fruit. This has great potential. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Tronquay-Lalande 90-92
Tasted at Chateau Montrose, this is a blend of 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 51% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot, cropped at 46hl/ha. The nose is quite feisty at first, but it calms down nicely with well defined aromas of blackberry, raspberry coulis, a touch of shellfish and a hint of mint. The palate is full-bodied, svelte tannins, quite plush and concentrated, great depth with blackberry, spice, small black cherries and a touch of graphite. There is just a little hardness towards the finish. Good length. A burly Saint Estephe. Tasted March 2010.

Pauillac
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2009 Chateau d'Armailhac 91-93
Tasted at Château Mouton-Rothschild and at a negociant. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. This has a fragrant, perfumed nose with a Margaux-like personality. Taut blackberry and bilberry fruit, good definition, coiled up aromatics, becoming stonier with aeration, good minerality coming through, perhaps stricter than recent vintages of d'Armailhac. The palate has a very smooth entry, supple tannins, citric acidity, very pure and generous, lovely sense of refinement towards the tannic, blackberry, stony finish. Perhaps a little more conservative at this stage, the oak is bound to buff it up by time of bottling. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Aile d'Argent Blanc 86-88
Tasted at Château Mouton-Rothschild, the Aile d'Argent is a blend of 72% Sauvignon Blanc and 26% Semillon and 1% Muscadelle, with a little more malolactic this year, with tropical fruits, pineapple and a touch of guava on the nose. The palate is well balanced, quite leesy, touches of dried pineapple and apricot. Simple and straightforward. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Batailley 94-96
Tasted at the château and UGC. Picking commenced with the Merlot on the 24th September, for the Cabernet we started on the 29th September, finishing on 11th October and the Petit Verdot the 12th October. A blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, this Batailley has a ripe nose of blackberry, black plum, sandalwood, mint and just a hint of white flowers. Not a huge intense nose, but much more refined, very Pauillac. The palate is medium-bodied, rounded and quite supple tannins, yet good backbone as always on this Batailley. Very harmonious, insistent but gentle grip, a slightly powdery texture towards the finish lending a pleasurable sense of umami. Very focused and elegant towards the finish, classic in style and yet very "2009". This has the potential to be a benchmark Batailley after bottling (just be prudent on the oak please!) Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Clerc-Milon 90-92
Tasted at Château Mouton-Rothschild. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot and 1% Carmenere (the first time since 2005.) 12.5% alcohol, a little higher than usual. This has a very lifted nose, very lively, this is a bouquet that wants to party, although it just lacks the refinement that I find in the d'Armailhac. Very minerally, real scents of crushed stones in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, silky smooth tannins, very good fruit intensity with black cherries, boysenberry, black plum and that minerality stretching long at the finish. Superb persistency. The wine is calming down in the glass. Very tight at the moment, it will hopefully blossom after its élevage. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Cordeillan Bages 89-91
Tasted at Château Lynch-Bages. This is very intense on the nose blackberry, blueberry, a touch of iodine and bilberry. The palate is full-bodied with supple tannins, good acidity, very pure with fine structure. Linear like Lynch Bages towards the citric, slightly austere finish. Just 1,000 cases produced. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Croizet-Bages 86-88+
Tasted at Vintex and the UGC. This is certainly a better nose than displayed in recent years with ripe black fruits and raspberry coulis, yet there is an underlying greenness that peeks its head out in time. The palate is not bad at all, well balance with fine tannins, cohesive with touches of cigar box interlacing the black fruit towards the poised finish. It is just that soupcon of greenness that niggles on the aromatics, otherwise this would be a great Croizet-Bages. I suspect this will improve in barrel and may come out the other side better…Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Duhart-Milon 91-93
Tasted at Lafite-Rothschild. Picked between 23rd and 30th September and 1st to 8th October, the Duhart is a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37% Merlot. It has that typically obdurate, almost sulky bouquet, dark berried fruit, cold stones, a touch of black olive and oyster shell. The palate is much more approachable than previous vintages, very fine tannins, a little purer than previous vintages, very harmonious and subtle with an almost feminine (for Duhart) finish. A classic Duhart fashioned in a more modern, pleasing style without losing its gravitas. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse 88-90
Tasted at the UGC. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, this has a rather subdued nose: blackberry, undergrowth, cigar box...very well defined. The palate is not bad at all: certainly an improvement in recent years with better balance and (hoorah!) no sign of greenness. Not an ambitious GPD, but understated and agreeable on the foursquare, tobacco led finish. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste 94-96
Tasted at the château. A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc picked the between the 24th September and 7th October. The nose is introverted and broody at first, hints of seaweed inflecting the pure black fruits. Very minerally – lots of character here. The palate is medium-bodied, the tannins a little firmer and structure than other Pauillacs, which is exactly in keeping with the estate's style. Lovely poise on the finish, wonderful focus and edginess with a savoury note on the finish. Insistent grip. Superb persistency and yet typically conservative in its youth. No doubt it will demand at least ten years cellaring, but it will be worth the wait. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Haut Bages Libéral 90-92
Tasted at the UGC. A blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Merlot, this has a ripe, quite floral, feminine nose with bright black fruits, pencil shaving and a touch of cedar. Very Pauillac, refined and understated. The palate has slightly chewy tannins on the entry, giving way to a more succulent texture with a little aeration: blackcurrant wine gums, cedar, a touch of white pepper, foursquare with graphite on the finish. It could do with a little more depth and length, but I appreciate the balance and poise and I think this will round out during élevage. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Haut-Batailley 92-94
Tasted at Château Grand Puy Lacoste. A blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, picked between 26th September until 7th October. This Haut-Batailley has a tight, quite elegant nose, pert black fruits, blackberry leaf, a touch of sous-bois, graphite, a hint of undergrowth. It needs time to expand and blossom in the glass. The palate is very fresh with fine tannins, surfeit with coiled energy, the finish very vibrant, slightly Oriental with faint hints of Hoi Sin and even a touch of yellow plum. Very harmonious on the finish. Excellent…it reminds me of the superb '06. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Lafite Rothschild 98-100
Tasted at the chateau from a sample taken on 19th March 2009 and the sample left 20-30 minutes before approaching. The Lafite 2009 has a very dark, almost opaque black/purple hue. The nose is very intense with blackberries, griottes, a touch of apricot and an almost sorbet like freshness. Powerful but also, so graceful and elegant, nothing over-ambitious. The palate is full-bodied with silky smooth tannins, seamless texture, pure blackberry, plum, minerals, crushed stones. I have never tasted a Lafite at this stage so elegant and graceful. The puissance is deceptive, only at the finish are there lapping waves of pure, heavenly black cherries, minerals, a touch of cassis, cedar and graphite. Astounding persistency. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Carruades de Lafite 89-91
A blend of 50.6% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42.4% Merlot, 2.2% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc, the Carruades has a refined, very well delineated bouquet of blackberry, a touch of plum, Mirabelle, cedar and smoke. The palate is medium-bodied, fine tannins, smooth and sensuous, not a powerful Carruades, more approachable than previous vintages, the tannins a little softer and smoother. Good length. Very fine…but it does not exceed expectations. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Latour 98-100
Tasted at the château. Very deep purple colour. The nose is very well defined with scents of small blackberry, boysenberry, cold granite and just a hint of pencil lead. Great clarity and expression here. This is a majestic Latour, utterly pure, wonderful minerality showing through, very fine tannins and incredible poise. Blackberry, touches of briary, coiled up energy towards the finish, utterly focused with that tannins leaving an off-dry finish with bewitching persistency. There is paradoxically weight and weightlessness...sorry to be so cryptic, but that is how it is! A monumental Latour that constitutes one of the greatest wines of the vintage. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Les Fort de Latour 91-93
Tasted at the château, a blend of 65.1% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32.3% Merlot, 0.6% Cabernet Franc and 1.9% Petit Verdot, this Les Forts de Latour sports a deep garnet core. The nose is very well defined, very graceful, very well defined, not as opulent as previous vintage, but imbued with a sense of natural clarity and pellucidity. The palate is medium-bodied with real intensity and focus of fruit, much more minerality coming through than in previous vintages. Lovely, cedar infused finish with just a hint of tobacco. A much more graceful Les Fort de Latour. Very alluring. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Pauillac de Latour 88-90
Tasted at the château, a blend of 53.8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 46.2% Merlot, this has a very pure nose: small black cherries, a touch of bergamot, blackcurrant, just a faint hint of steaming espresso. Fine definition. The palate is medium-bodied, grainy tannins, nicely balanced and more mineralité than usual. Lovely poise on the finish, touches of that espresso just inflecting the finish. Good length. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Lynch Bages 94-96
Tasted at the château and UGC. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, raised in 70% new oak. Merlot was cropped from the 28th to 30th September and the Cabernet Sauvignon was picked from the 6th to the 12th October. The nose soars from the glass, pure blackberry, briary, pencil lead and a touch of tobacco. Very fine definition: reminiscent of the 2006 but with a little more horsepower. The palate is full-bodied with very well integrated new oak that really sings with the concentrated black fruit and does not disguise the minerality in this wine. Tons of freshness, that acidity really driving the wine to the finish and then the persistency is superb. Still very linear, with a strictness that is seductive. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Blanc de Lynch Bages 88-90
A blend of 58% Sauvignon Blanc (the highest ever), 30% Semillon and 12% Muscadelle raised in 50% new oak, Jean-Charles de-selecting more of the crop this year. The nose is very fresh with lemon, a touch of apricot, white peach and lime leaf. Very good definition and you cannot tell the oak. The palate is well balanced, a very linear entry, just missing a little personality and complexity at the moment. Fruit salad, greengage, a touch of melon and star fruit. Fresh finish. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Lynch Mousses 90-92
Tasted at Château Batailley and the UGC. A blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Merlot, cropped at 39hl/ha, this has a very tight bouquet with notes of blackberry, briary, a touch of undergrowth and with aeration, a hint of black plum. Good definition. The palate is medium-bodied, very harmonious and pure with an almost Margaux-like tannins. Very focused with blackberry, boysenberry, a touch of sandalwood, gentle and elegant towards the finish. This is the best Lynch Moussas...ever? Probably. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 94-96
Tasted at the château. A blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Merlot, the highest percentage of Cabernet since 1963. Delivering 13.1% alcohol and an IPT was close to 80. The nose is tight at first and demands so coaxing from the glass, but unfurls to reveal a very pure aromatic profile: quite strict, more like Grand Puy Lacoste, a touch of smoke, very fine mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied very precise, supple tannins, superb Cabernet Sauvignon, taking time to open up but it does towards the finish, touches of tobacco and sous-bois underlying the ripe but not decadent fruit. The tannins are not quite as fine as Latour, but there is a lovely sensuality on the finish. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Le Petit Mouton 88-90
A blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc with around 8% vin de presse. This has a very deep purple/garnet core. The nose is quite rich, well defined, opulent for a Le Petit Mouton (obviously not so Petit this year!) Blackberry, a touch of plum, Mirabelle with just a hint of damson. Good lift. The palate is much more tannic than I expect, a feisty Le Petit Mouton, firm tannins, rigid structure with a touch of savoury fruit towards the spice-tinged finish. Moderate length. Perhaps it needs to calm down a bit...a bit tough on the finish. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Pédesclaux 88-90
Tasted at a negociant. The Pedesclaux '09 has a pure, cedar-infused nose with very fine fruit concentration, not a complex bouquet but admirable freshness and vitality with hints of vanilla developing with time. The palate has silky smooth tannins on the entry, some very clean, pure fruit just compromised by excessive new oak that detracts from the finish. Depending upon how the oak marries with the fruit through its élevage, this could merit a higher score after bottling. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Pibran 89-91
Tasted at Château Pichon-Baron. A blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, this Pibran has a deep garnet core. It has a very pure but very tight nose, a little reticent early in the morning. Blackberry, a touch of black plum and boysenberry. Very smooth and sensuous on the entry, supple tannins, touches of graphite interlacing the black fruit, good acidity, quite linear towards the finish but the Merlot lends it an agreeable corpulence. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Pichon Baron 95-97
Tasted at the château and at the UGC. A blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot, picked between 24th September and the 9th October, cropped at around 35hl/ha and bestowed with 13.76% alcohol. This has a very tight nose at first, demanding coaxing from the glass. Very fine definition, a strict linearity at first, opening up a glacial pace, graphite, smoke, small black cherries, a hint of bilberry and crushed stones. The palate is full-bodied with brilliant definition and focus, even finer tannins than the stupendous 2008, very rounded and supple and yet with a firm linear backbone. No frills at the moment, just pure concentration. Wonderful persistency towards the finish. Top class. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Les Tourelles de Longueville 88-90
A blend of 61% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc, this has a strict, linear nose with cedar infused black fruits, black plum, a hint of damson and a whiff of smoke. Good definition. The palate is full-bodied with quite muscular tannins, good depth of flavour, rounded blackberry, boysenberry, just a touch of white pepper and graphite towards the finish. Good definition here: this is an excellent Deuxième Vin, though quite dry and tannic on the aftertaste. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Pichon-Lalande 93-96
Tasted at the château and at the UGC. A limpid deep purple colour. This has a very fragrant nose, not quite as well defined as Pichon Baron, but very elegant and graceful with blackberry, raspberry leaf, pencil lead, graphite and wild hedgerow. Very pure and feminine. Second bottle at the UGC is actually better...much more precision here, the high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%) really showing through. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very compact, not as expansive as other wines, much more conservative than I was expecting, but very graceful with an unerring sense of symmetry. I cannot help feeling that the wine would benefit from a greater percentage of Merlot, especially on the finish, but over time is does expand in the glass, becoming more and more supple, with a sense of Cabernet invoked authority on the finish. This should coalesce beautifully by time of bottling. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Reserve de la Comtesse 88-90
For the vintage, this Reserve as an exuberant, most approachable nose with red-berries, kirsch, graphite, sous-bois and cigar box. Very Pauillac. Moderate definition, actually closing up a little in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, lots of tobacco/cigar box flavours infusing the black, dusky fruit. Nicely balanced, if just a little too conservative towards the austere, smoky finish. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Pontet Canet 94-97
Tasted on four separate occasions, including twice at the chateau, though actually showing best at a negociant. Representing 80% of the crop, 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. The nose is very pure, blackberry, small black cherries, a touch of griottes, a hint of cedar and mint. Quite feminine. Not too powerful. Very fine definition. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins, insistent grip and good acidity, perhaps one of the most structured, masculine Pauillac 2009s but that does not detract from the finesse and poise. But certainly there is backbone here that segues into a tertiary note towards the finish. Very focused, more minerally elements towards the finish, hints of black truffle and smoke towards the finish. Very good persistency, somehow, an assured Pontet Canet. Superb. Tasted March 2010.

Saint Julien
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2009 Chateau Beychevelle 93-95
Tasted at the château and at the UGC. A blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot cropped at 45hl/ha. A deep purple/garnet colour. Clear. Immediately, the nose is very pure with a tangible sense of minerality in the aromatics, not a powerful nose, quite contained, but very focused and speaking of its place. Black fruits, cold granite, a touch of cedar. I like the precision here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a little edgy at first, a nice sense of tension, lightness combined with intensity. Perhaps a more feminine 2009, but that is not meant pejoratively. Very smooth with lively small black cherries, cedar and pencil shavings towards the Cabernet dominated cashmere finish. Good persistency. Excellent. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Branaire-Ducru 90-92
Tasted at the château and at the UGC. A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, some of the Merlot (28%) plots reached 14.8%, the overall alcohol is 13.55% and pH 3.53. The Petit Verdot (4%) had very high quality tannins with good finesse, and 3% from old Cabernet Franc. A bright garnet core. The nose is well defined, quite elegant, but perhaps showing a little tighter than other Saint Juliens. Blackberry, a touch of cedar, like at Ducru, just a faint scent of the Gironde estuary and then with time, just a faint hint of griottes. The palate is full-bodied, nice grippy tannins, a little edgier than Ducru, a touch my sharpness and the acidity is racier. Good structure, a touch more rigid at this stage but that will melt by the time of bottling. A saline touch towards the finish interwoven with a citric thread. Good length. This is a Saint Julien standing to attention on parade. Hopefully it will stand at ease by bottling. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 93-95
Tasted at the château. A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, aged in 90% new oak and 10% one-year old for 12 months, cropped at around 42hl/ha coming in with 13.49% alcohol, this has a very deep colour, very lucid. The nose is well defined, very pure, with blackberry, a touch of iodine, something reminiscent of the sea here, perhaps with a touch of seaweed? The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, the new oak very well integrated, quite feminine and sensual, silky towards the long finish. This will need longer to allow the oak to melt into the fabric of the wine but it will be worth the wait. As Bruno Borie said: imagine Beyonce. Tasted March 2010.

2009 La Croix de Beaucaillou 91-93
Tasted at the château. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot, matured in 60% new oak and the rest, one-year old, coming in with 13.35% alcohol and pH of 3.69, this has a lifted, quite minty nose, blackberry, a touch of cedar, taking its time to unfurl and then later, a touch of black olive tapenade. The palate is full-bodied, quite smooth and sensuous, very pure, quite feminine, small black cherries, a touch of plum and a nice citrus-led finish. Almost understated at first, but growing all the time in the glass. Silky smooth finish. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Gloria 91-93
Tasted at a negociant. To be brutally honest, I prefer the St. Pierre to the Gloria this year, although the latter is still a very impressive '09, more introverted at the moment: broody blackberry, cedar, black plum and a touch of crushed stone, but it does unwind temptingly with aeration. The palate shows its true potential: superb concentration with firm tannins, tarry black fruits; immense concentration without compensating on delineation and freshness. Perhaps even more persistency than St. Pierre towards the finish, this represents one of St. Julien's finest contributions to the vintage. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Gruaud Larose 92-95
Tasted at the château and the UGC. The crop was picked between 23rd September and 29th September for the Merlot and 2nd October to 17th October for the Cabernet Sauvignon. A blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Merlot, this Gruaud has a tightly wound nose of black cherries, a touch of black plum and black truffle, good definition and with time some more exotic aromas: hints of honey and a little espresso. The palate is medium-bodied, very linear on the entry but displaying very good definition, with notes of blackberry, a touch of raspberry, espresso, a little white pepper and a meaty character. It expands very well towards the finish, maintaining excellent definition and clarity, very good poise, a biscuit element inflecting the pure black fruits, an insistent but gentle grip and great persistency. Somehow the 1982 is coming to mind, and that is a great thing. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Lagrange 93-95
Tasted at the château and the UGC. A blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot (no Petit Verdot). A very deep, almost opaque garnet/purple colour. The nose has beautiful definition with scents of ripe blackberries, small black cherries, blueberry, a touch of mint and cedar. Very focused with the oak completely in synch with the fruit. Seamless tannins on the full-bodied palate, lively and animated, very taut, this is not the cashmere wine of Ducru for example, a little firmer in terms of the backbone, very well balanced, perhaps a little more masculine. Tightly coiled towards the espresso/minerally finish, really leaving a tingle of excitement on the tongue. Superb – real finesse in the wine, although that comes through leaving it for five minutes in the glass. The sample at the UGC showed more harmony and cohesion than the one at the château. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Lalande-Borie 86-88
Tasted at Ducru Beaucaillou. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, matured in 27% new oak, this has a very tight, rather pointed nose, just a little leafy at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied, soft on the entry, just a little disjointed on the mid-palate with a foursquare finish. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Langoa-Barton 92-94
Tasted at the château and the UGC. Cropped between 23rd September and 3rd October, a blend of 34% Merlot, 54% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Cabernet Franc, delivering 13.0% alcohol. A deep purple colour. The bouquet has a great purity and sense of nonchalance to it, light and airy, superb definition with black cherries, a touch of cassis and autumn leaves and then with aeration, hints of oyster shell and cockle shell. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a gentle but insistent grip, pure black cherries, touches of cassis and boysenberry towards the focused finish. Good length and breeding. Everything in its right place. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Léoville-Barton 91-93
Tasted at the château and the UGC. A blend of 22.5% Merlot, 77% Cabernet Sauvignon and 0.5% Cabernet Franc, delivering 13.1% alcohol. 84IPT. A dark garnet/purple colour. The nose is very well defined, taut at first but unwinding with aeration, crisp blackberry leaf, boysenberry, a touch of iodine and subtle hints of shellfish. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, a sense of tautness here, like a coiled spring, silky smooth, surfeit with freshness, very poised on the sorbet-like, almost Burgundian finish with that sense of transparency that allows the terroir to show through. Superb. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Leoville Las-Cases 96-98
Tasted at the château. A blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc, with 6.4% vin de presse, delivering 13.4% alcohol and a pH of 3.65. The nose has brilliant delineation: this is the first thing that hits you, as if you can peer into the clos of the vineyard itself. Very expressive, almost feminine and wily, crystalline (this is something that I did not expect.) The palate is medium-bodied, saturated and supple on the entry, seamless tannins, a sense of controlled opulence here, very pure, rounded towards the finish, again, gliding across the mouth and caressing, rather than gripping it. The finish is very pure, almost Napa in style, but retaining sufficient structure and prudency of alcohol to allow that Saint Julien terroir to shine through. This is an irresistible Las-Cases, perhaps a modern day '85? Tasted March 2010.

2009 Clos du Marquis 91-93
Tasted at the château. A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot with 7.6% vin de presse, delivering 13.75% alcohol and a pH of 3.70. The Clos du Marquis has a sexy, quite opulent and very pure bouquet with lascivious red-berried fruits, vanilla, blueberry and a touch of cedar. The palate has a seamless entry, very focused and beautifully balanced, glides across that palate, filigree tannins, sensuous and silky towards the finish. Very alluring, but perhaps just missing a little delineation and edginess towards the finish. Still, this Clos du Marquis is as impressive as usual. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Le Petit Lion 88-90
This is de facto the second wine of Chateau Leoville Las-Lascases that was introduced in 2007, de-selected vines from the clos that were recently replanted and are now between 15 and 18-years of age. It has a rather straight-laced nose, very correct with good definition, touches of blackberry leaf, briary and a nice mineral content. The palate is medium-bodied, well balanced with very fine concentration, good acidity here cutting through those thick, chewy black fruits, a little oaky towards the finish, but nicely focused and a Saint Julien that should be approachable a little sooner than the Grand Vin. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Léoville Poyferré 92-94
A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc, this has a beautifully defined bouquet, adeptly containing the 13.9% alcohol. The Cabernets were picked between 2nd and the 12th October, dense black fruits, touches of date and fresh fig, certainly more exotic than the Leoville Barton tasted just before. With aeration, there is a hint of Japanese nori. The palate is rounded and voluptuous, very well balanced with smooth, sensuous tannins, the acidity less marked than Barton, caressing towards the lush, but delineated finish. A powerful, quite sexy Poyferre by Didier Cuvelier. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Saint Pierre 93-95
Tasted at the UGC. Bright blackberry, boysenberry and minerals on the tightly wound nose. Good definition and lift, quite a classy Saint Julien nose. It has a beautifully balanced palate, ripe tannins, wonderful definition with a sensuality that I have never encountered before in St. Pierre. Plush and assured on the mineral-rich finish. Undoubtedly the finest St. Pierre that I have tasted. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Talbot 90-91
Tasted at the château and the UGC. A sample taken 22nd March, a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon (a little higher than usual), 31% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot, picked from 26th September with the Merlot, the Cabernet picked from 2nd October until 14th October. It was the first time they stopped picking to achieve full ripeness. The nose is just a little subdued at the moment, broody blackberry, raspberry, a touch of savoury fruit just in the background, perhaps from the Petit Verdot. The palate is medium-bodied, slightly rustic tannins on the entry, but nice depth on the mid-palate, fanning out nicely towards the supple finish. Notes of blackberry, tobacco, a touch of coca and a touch of pepper. A little rusticity compared to others although it displays admirable delineation. Off-dry finish. Fine, but it needs to pep up a bit by bottling. Tasted March 2010.

Margaux
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2009 Chateau Brane Cantenac 91-93
A blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc with 11.3% pressed wine, cropped between 22nd September and 9th October at 48.4hl/ha, this has a very precise nose with blackberry, cedar, sandalwood and a touch of mint, but returning after 20 minutes, boy does this open up with some lovely sweet raspberry and coffee aromas developing. The palate is medium-bodied, a little disjointed at first but coalescing beautifully over half an hour. Good acidity cutting through the fruit: soft raspberry and strawberry mixed with a hint of dark chocolate, veering towards a savoury finish. This wine only shows its true colours after some serious aeration. A second sample at the UGC was similar on the nose, but there was some vegetal notes coming through towards the finish that were not previously present. This is difficult to work out this Margaux at this stage, but the way it harmonizes gives me optimism. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Dauzac 90-92
Tasted at the Margaux UGC. A blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon and 36% Merlot, this has a lively, ripe, joyful bouquet with fine definition and purity: blackberries, wild strawberry, a touch of cedar and sous-bois. Very fine definition. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very good balance...this is one of the Dauzac's that has been lighting up the Margaux tastings in recent years. Good structure on the sous-bois and tobacco tinged finish that lingers enticingly. Excellent. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Desmirail 90-92
Tasted at a negociant. A very fragrant, natural nose from Desmirail that is well defined with good lift: pure black cherry, plum and a touch of cedar. A feminine bouquet. Not a powerful Margaux and perhaps the finish would benefit from more depth, but well balance with some attractive tobacco notes interwoven into the plush black fruit on the off-dry finish. Good length. Very fine. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Deyrem-Valentin 91-93
Tasted at Vintex. This has a very fine, very delineated bouquet with black cherries, blueberry, a touch of cassis and some citrus fruit. It blossoms beautifully in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, good tension here, silky smooth with crisp blackberry and briary on the minerally finish. This is a great Cru Bourgeois. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Giscours 90-93
Tasted at the chateau, at a negociant and at the Margaux UGC. The harvest began on 22nd September with the Merlots and finished on 13th October for some parcels of the Cabernet, a blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc and 40% Merlot using 50% new oak from seven suppliers. This is taut on the nose, very tight, introspective and slightly earthy. The palate is full-bodied with grainy tannins, deep broody dark berried fruits, touches of coca and a hint of cracked black pepper. Quite toasty towards the finish, moderate length, just a little attenuated towards the finish although the sample at the UGC was much more "strident", containing the chutzpah that it was missing before. Like the du Tertre, I think this will show better in a couple of months. The second sample at the negociant was a better sample with some pleasant coffee notes on the aftertaste. Difficult to discern at the moment but I remain optimistic. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau d'Issan 90-92
Tasted at the chateau and then at a negociant. The d'Issan '09 is quite austere compared to its neighbours, a little leafy perhaps but well-defined and harmonious, gaining intensity with aeration. The palate is well balanced, quite masculine with sous-bois and tobacco notes inflecting the black fruits, leading to a firm, almost foursquare finish that does not want to party. Moderate length. I think this will fatten out, loosen up through its élevage. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Kirwan 92-94
Tasted at the Margaux UGC. The Kirwan evinces promise on the nose with sweet black cherry fruit, briary, cedar and a touch of graphite. Quite rounded and with great purity. The palate is full-bodied, more sinewy than other Margaux wines, but it does not compromise on balance, that tannins masculine and a little austere, but counterpoising the exuberant fruit nicely. Good grip on the finish: this is an excellent Kirwan. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Lascombes 91-93+
Tasted at a negociant. The Lascombes has a ripe, sweet nose that does not exude the delineation of the Malescot St. Exupery tasted just before. Surprisingly, this sample is a little introverted compared to others, but that might change after bottling of course. The palate is medium-bodied but with very good weight on the palate; the tannins a little brutish at the moment, much more masculine and a little austere, although there is good delineation and perhaps less opulent than previous years. This should show its true potential after bottling...so one to watch. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Malescot St. Exupery 93-95
Tasted at a negociant. A blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot 4%, Merlot 35% and Cabernet Franc 8% picked between 29th September until 16th October. This has a ripe, black cherry, briary, graphite tinged bouquet that exudes purity, feminine charm and unlike some other Margaux wine, does not forget where it was born. The palate is medium-bodied with a lively, slightly peppery entry, very fine but robust tannins, very focused with a sense of "controlled power" on the finish. This is a very classy, sophisticated Margaux demonstrating great persistency and elan. Excellent. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Margaux 96-98
Tasted at the chateau. Sample taken 22nd March. A blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc, close to the average proportions of the last 10 years. The final alcohol comes in at 13.2-13.3%. An extremely alluring bouquet: blackberry, cassis and violets, your quintessential Margaux really, but cloaked in a sense of sensuality and sumptuousness that is rarely seen. Very fine definition with touches of cold limestone coming through. The palate is brilliantly poised with filigree tannins, breathtaking delineation and focus. There is immense intensity here, the energy of the channel with a crisp, taut finish. Wonderful length. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Pavillon Blanc de Chateau Margaux 91-93
Tasted at the chateau. Pure Sauvignon Blanc. Represents only 36% of the crop, quite a primal nose with pink grapefruit, lime leaf, a touch of nettle and Mirabelle. The palate is more refined than the previous couple of vintages with lanolin, honeysuckle, a touch of jasmine and pear skin. Very well defined towards the finish, very fine poise and length. Lovely and pert. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Pavillon Rouge de Chateau Margaux 92-94
Tasted at the chateau. 67% CS, 29M% and 4% PV and includes 13-14% of vin de presse. This has a lucid purple colour. A plush, sensuous nose with black cherry, cassis and violets: very pure, in some ways reminding me of a combination of the 1996 and 2006 but with more panache and vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, quite edgy on the entry, very good acidity here, a certain symmetry that perhaps has been missing in recent vintages. The finish is very natural, showing very fine minerality and poise. This is superb. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Marquis d'Alesme Becker 92-94
Tasted at Vintex and the UGC. A deep purple colour. The nose is tight at first: blackberry leaf, Doris plum, a touch of cold limestone and crushed minerals. At first, it appeared slightly over-ripe, but with time it harmonizes and attains great delineation. The palate is medium-bodied but with very good weight and symmetry, fine tannins, the minerality really showing through on this wine, with touches of liquorices and spice on the long finish. Very fine. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Marquis de Terme 91-93
Tasted at the chateau. The crop was picked for the Merlot, from 30th September until 9th October, the Cabernet Sauvignon from 5th October until 19th October, the Petit Verdot on 9th October. The blend is 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot with the alcohol level at around 13.8% and pH 3.55 matured in 50% new oak. Very deep, almost opaque purple hue. The nose is opulent and very ripe, moderate definition, blackberry, cassis, a touch of blueberry, orange liqueur and a touch of anis. The palate is full-bodied with supple, rounded tannins, good structure and very pure. The longer this remains in the mouth, the more that I warm to this, a Margaux daring towards opulence but at the final moment, remembering were it was born and applying an austere break right on the finish. Given that this is Ludovic David's first vintage, it should be considered a great success. Drink 2013-2025+ Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Monbrison 90-92
Tasted at Vintex. This has a rich, opulent nose of black cherries, kirsch and smoke, well defined but perhaps just a little heady at the moment. The palate is full-bodied, grippy tannins, firm backbone with an pleasing austere, slightly peppery finish that reminds me more of a Saint Julien. Good potential. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Palmer 94-96
Sample taken on 19th March. A blend of 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 52% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot, cropped between 23rd September and 14th October, and 13.9% and 3.75pH. IPT is 88, which has never been seen before. A deep purple hue, the nose very tight at the moment with black cherry, cassis, a touch of oyster shell and liquorice. Blossoming in the glass. The palate is medium to full-bodied with seamless tannins, beautiful balanced and immense purity. The oak is well integrated (50%). Wonderful poise on the finish and superb length. Yes, modern in style, but there it is imbued with irresistible purity. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Alter Ego de Palmer 91-93
Tasted at the chateau. A lucid purple colour. A blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon and 51% Merlot, I do not even need to approach the glass to nose this wine. Just under 13.7% alcohol. A sense of controlled opulence here, black plum, a touch of cassis and bilberry, the oak just a little dominant at the moment but that will subsume itself into the wine with time. The palate is full-bodied with seamless tannins, a typically plush, approachable Alter Ego with black cherry, a hint of thyme and white fennel, gentle but insistent grip towards the finish. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Prieure-Lichine 89-91
Tasted at a negociant and UGC. Tight on the nose at first: earthy black fruits: a touch of briary, fruitcake, cedar and damp moss. Good delineation and quite "classic" in style. The palate is medium-bodied with good concentration, the tannins just a little coarse at the moment but that will calm down through its elevage. Good delineation, quite foursquare and not charming at the moment, but will offer its delights after 4-5 years of bottling. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Rauzan-Gassies 87-89?
Tasted at Vintex and at the Margaux UGC, a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. This has a very sweet, prune-tinged nose with opulent black cherry and blueberry fruit. This seems just a little too over-powering. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, firm grip, slightly meaty and savoury (from some Cabernet Franc) with a finish that is a little hard at the moment. A curious Gassies! Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Rauzan Ségla 96-98
Tasted at the chateau and UGC. A blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon and 42% Merlot, with 10% vin de presse. The Merlot picked from 22nd to 25th September then 28th September until 1st October. The Cabernet picked 3rd October and from 5th until 11th October (no Cabernet Franc and the Petit Verdot, though ripe, just did not blend well), cropped at 41hl/ha. The nose is well defined, very classic in style with blackberry, black olive, graphite and an intriguing note of woodbines. This is a magnificent Rauzan-Segla, easily the best I have tasted at en primeur. Firstly, it is much more harmonious than usual at this nascent stage, the acidity level is just about perfect, there is a vibrancy that is really enthralling and the poise on the finish ranks alongside that of Chateau Margaux, tasted just before. The finish is very strong, slightly creamy in texture, but also superbly defined and with superb length. Very natural and refine, yet powerful. This may be the best Rauzan Segla that John Kolasa has made. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Siran 88-90
Tasted at the Margaux UGC. A blend 48% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Petit Verdot with 13.7% alcohol. A typically very ripe bouquet from Siran that flirts with sur-maturite, although not to the extent that I had feared. Black cherries, iodine, bilberry, some "mulchy" aromas. The palate is medium-boded with firm, dry, slightly meaty tannins, robust towards the finish with notes of blackberry, boysenberry and a savoury finish. Moderate length. I just lacks a little finesse on the finish at the moment. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau du Tertre 88-90
Tasted at the chateau and UGC. Cropped at 33hl/ha, a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot (the highest ever) and 15% Cabernet Franc, 15% pressed wine. The harvest started 28th September until 13th October. The nose is very tight at the moment, quite masculine with the Cabernet Franc lending quite a leafy accent. Moderate definition. The palate is medium-bodied very taut but nicely balanced, the tannins a little firmer and less supple than others, but it is in synch with the fruit. More introspective than say, Marquis de Terme, with an agreeable tang of dark chocolate towards the dry, slightly obdurate finish. Moderate length. I am sure this will show better in another 1-2 months time. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Tour de Mons 90-92
Tasted at a negociant. This has a plush, quite floral bouquet with sweet vanilla extract interlacing the ripe black cherry and plum fruit, with smoke and cedar aromas developing in the glass. Good definition. The palate is medium-bodied on the entry, but builds nicely with a lot of fruit extraction married with noticeable new oak which is in synch with the fruit. Nice purity, plump and voluminous on the plush finish. Quite modern in style, well crafted though with good persistency. Tasted March 2010.

Pessac-Léognan/Graves Rouge
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2009 Chateau Branon 91-93
Tasted at Clos l'Eglise. This has a ripe black cherry, briary, redcurrant tinged bouquet with very fine definition and clarity. The palate is medium-bodied but with firm tannins, quite robust, a broad-shouldered, quite powerful Branon that grip the palate, earthy tones towards the weighty finish. Excellent. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Château Brown 89-91?
A sample taken on 8th March and tasted blind at home five days later. A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, cropped at 48.5hl/ha, pricked between the 1st and 20th October. The focus allied with the intensity on the nose of this Chateau Brown is impressive. Ripe blackberry, black plum and a touch of crushed stone. Good definition and no sign of any heat. The palate is medium-bodied with good concentration, excellent precision, building beautifully in the mouth. Good acidity here, really cuts though towards the finish, that citric thread counterpoising the dense, black olive tinged blackberry and brambly finish. Nice touch of austerity towards the finish. (N.B. a sample at a negociant tasting was showing some sur-maturite on the nose, hence the question mark.) Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Carbonnieux 91-93
Tasted at a negociant. This has a very ripe nose that flirts with sur-maturite but pulls it back from the brink. Good definition: succulent black cherries, black plum and some glycerine. The palate is medium-bodied, fine tannins, very pure with good delineation, taut with minerality inflecting the black fruits on the off-dry, slightly brutish, tannic finish. I think this will soften nicely by the time of bottling and this represents good potential for the future. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Les Carmes Haut Brion 92-94
Tasted at the Graves UGC. This has a very upfront nose with black, slightly gamey fruit that nods towards the Rhone, but there is also very fine definition and purity, a sense of exuberance to this Les Carmes. The palate is full-bodied with slightly grainy tannins, that gamey quality coming through on the entry, lovely structure, smoky black fruits, cooked meat, a touch of sage towards the finish. Real character to this 2009 Les Carmes. Superb. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Domaine de Chevalier 91-93
Tasted at the chateau. Dark garnet hue. The nose awakes slowly, imbued with a sense of control instead of the some of the more vivacious, immediate bouquets. There is very fine minerality and delineation, dark cherry fruit, Doris plum, just a hint of briary with a very faint hint of truffle. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very fresh, not as much weight as some of the other Pessac/Graves, light on its feet, very feminine, wonderful definition on the finish. This looks like it will turn out to be a very pretty Domaine de Chevalier Rouge. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Haut-Bailly 92-94
Tasted at the chateau, the sample taken 16th March from a pre-blend of the Merlot and three lots of Cabernet (probably no pressed wine this year) and a second sample at a negociant. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc with 55% new barrels. A very deep garnet/black colour. This has a very refined nose of blackcurrant, raspberry, wild hedgerow, a nice minerality all with very good delineation but very tightly wound at the moment: this really does demand coaxing from the glass. With further aeration, that minerality is really coming through nicely (much more so than at the chateau!) The palate is full-bodied with a soft entry, grippy tannins, structure on the entry, dense black ripe fruit with an underlying stoniness. It is the follow through, like a wave crashing onto the back palate that really marks this wine out, with very fine persistency and minerality towards the finish. Silky and slightly creamy in texture towards the finish. Superb. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Haut-Bergey 90-92
Tasted at Clos l'Eglise. This has a rather pinched nose, blackberry, oyster shell, briary and crushed stones; very fresh and delineated, not powerful, but opening nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied, grainy tannins, quite meaty and grainy, some savoury notes towards the finish. Understated, approachable, nice sous-bois elements on the finish. Fine. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Haut-Brion 96-98
Tasted at the chateau. The Haut-Brion '09 is a blend of 46% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc, 14.3% alcohol, pH 3.84. The bouquet is markedly different from La Mission: far more rounded and opulent, much more sweet, ripe fruit with blackberry, red cherry, cassis and a touch of crème de menthe. This is one of the most decedent Haut-Brion's that I have tasted at this stage. The palate is full-bodied, layers of tannic black fruits, huge structure, dense and demonstrative. Blackberry, a touch of tar and graphite, some black olive towards the finish, almost a tidal wave of flavours. Huge grip on the dry finish, but incredible persistency in the mouth. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion 88-90
Tasted at the chateau. The erstwhile Bahans, this has a touch more depth and breadth on the aromatics compared to the La Chapelle de al Mission, blackberry, graphite, hints of cassis and mint. Nice definition. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, notes of blackberry, graphite, a touch of tobacco leaf, a sprinkle of black pepper, leading to a masculine, quite tannic entry that grips the mouth. Very fine, but it will need more time than most Bahans of the past. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion 90-92
Tasted at the Pessac UGC. A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, this has a ripe blackberry, raspberry coulis, espresso scented nose that just lacks a little clarity at the moment. Dry tannins greet you on the palate, a rather curmudgeonly Pessac at the moment, with touches of bell pepper interlacing the tannic finish. Hopefully this will mellow and soften throughout its élevage. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau La Louvière 90-92
This is rather pinched and broody on the nose, sultry dark berried fruit, a touch of mulberry and damp earth. Moderate definition. The palate is better, nicely balanced, sultry on the entry, slightly coarse tannins, quite dry but with some tightly wound blackberry and raspberry leaf towards the finish that has a saline kiss on the aftertaste. The more this stays in the mouth, the more it expands and harmonizes. One to watch... Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion 95-97
Tasted at the chateau. Delivering a hefty 14.7% alcohol and a pH of 3.84, the '09 La Mission has a beautiful bouquet with wonderful definition, quite feminine with pure blackberry, raspberry, orange-blossom and a touch of pencil lead. Very focused and lifted. The palate is full-bodied with fine tannins, very good structure but extraordinarily tightly coiled, ready to spring into life in 10-15 years. Hints of tobacco and espresso towards the finish that has a gentle but insistent tannic grip. Saline finish. Excellent. Tasted April 2010.

2009 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion 89-91+
Tasted at the chateau. A deep purple/garnet core. The nose is ripe and well-defined with graphite and mineral tinged black plum fruit with just a hint of Japanese umiboshi. The palate is medium-bodied, firm tannins, good weight, blackberry, a touch of burnt toast and graphite. Just a touch of hardness of youth, chalky, slightly pointed on the finish. I suspect this will really come into its own after bottling. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Pape-Clément 94-96
Tasted at the chateau. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, cropped at 43hl/ha between 24th September and 21st October, this Pape-Clement has a ripe, how shall I say, almost "feline" nose that seems to purr with class. Very fine delineation and very focused. Just a touch of tobacco developing in the glass. The palate is full-bodied, dense and very weighty, bold but firm tannins, a more masculine Pape-Clement and beautifully balanced towards the finish. Very pure with a cool, refined finish. This is sophisticated and classy. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte 94-96
Tasted at the chateau. Picked between 25th September and 17th October, 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot cropped at 32 hl/ha, this has a very sleek, well defined bouquet, very pure with dark berried fruits, just a hint of coca and dark chocolate powder. Very focused, very linear at the moment but developing a lovely saline/estuarine character towards the finish. The palate is full-bodied with very silky tannins, harmonious, sensuous, very good weight and acidity, layers of ripe black, coca-tinged fruit with a sense of nonchalance and self-assured swagger towards the finish. Very pure, very long on the finish, leaving the mouth tingling with pleasure. This is a very assured Smith Haut Lafitte. Tasted April 2010.

Pessac-Léognan/Graves Blanc
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2009 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 90-92
Tasted at the chateau. A very primal nose with touches of red apple, pear, a touch of beeswax and apple-blossom. Well defined but perhaps lacking the edginess displayed by the 2007 at this stage. The palate is well balanced and light on its feet, well-judged acidity, a slight creaminess on the entry, broadening out nicely on the palate and showing more complexity than might have been aromatically implied. Very pure on the finish. Excellent. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Fieuzal Blanc 89-91
Tasted at a negociant. This is a perfumed, quite floral, peach and elderflower scented bouquet with good definition and lift. The palate is primal on the entry, showing good depth with grapefruit, apricot and some honeyed flavours towards the rounded zesty finish. This Fieuzal has some chutzpah for the vintage. Very fine. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Haut-Bergey Blanc 90-92
Tasted at Clos l'Eglise. This has a really lovely, minerally nose with crushed stone, fresh green apple, white peach and a touch of pear. Leesy on the entry, touches of tropical fruit, guava, pineapple and lime leaf, but then dainty and delicate towards the finish. Very pretty. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Haut-Brion Blanc 91-93
Tasted at the chateau. A blend of 38% Semillon and 62% Sauvignon Blanc, this has a more lifted, more feminine nose than the La Mission Blanc with notes of green lemon, grass cuttings, lime cordial and lemon curd. The palate is very well balanced with more vigour and joie de vivre than the Mission Blanc, racy acidity with touches of pear, freshly cut lime and just a faint hint of lemongrass. Cuts away just a little abruptly towards the finish. Tasted March 2010.

2009 La Clarté de Haut-Brion 87-89
A blend of 84% Semillon and 16% Sauvignon Blanc, this has a simple nose with grapefruit, a touch of green lemon and beeswax. The palate has a fresh, slightly waxy entry, nice acidity, touches of lanolin with a fine lime cordial finish. Harmonious and fresh. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion Blanc 89-91
Tasted at the Pessac UGC. This has a light, very primal bouquet with grapefruit, lime, a touch of peach and apple-blossom. The palate is well balanced with racy acidity, ample lime and pear tinged fruit, good depth, quite linear towards the finish but with good length. Attractive. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Malartic-Lagravière Blanc 84-86
Tasted at a negociant. The nose is a little taciturn at the moment, not showing the youthful exuberance of de Fieuzal for example, though the palate is nicely balance with a bit of fatness towards the finish. It comes across as conservative and rather non-descript. The 2008 tasted much better last year. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc 90-92
Tasted at the chateau. A blend of 84% Semillon and 16% Sauvignon Blanc, this has quite a tight nose of apple-blossom, pear skin and honeysuckle. Moderate definition, just lacking a little lift. The palate is taut on the entry, with touches of green apple, linden, a hint of gooseberry, good acidity towards the citric finish but perhaps without the exuberance of a great vintage such as the 2007. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Olivier Blanc 89-91
Tasted at the Graves UGC. This has a lifted, well-defined nose: a little pinched at first, developing attractive citrus peel aromas, green lemon, apricot and a touch of beeswax. The palate is very zesty with lemon peel, orange zest and a touch of white peach, not a complex Olivier Blanc, but it is lively, refreshing and displays fine tension at this early stage. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Pape-Clement Blanc 86-88
Tasted at the chateau. A blend of 48% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon, 6% Muscadelle and 6% Sauvignon Gris, cropped at 47hl.ha between 10th and 22nd September, this has a lovely, quite floral bouquet with good definition: lemon, lemon curd, lime flower and orange-blossom. The palate is well balanced, moderate acidity, a little waxy in texture and just missing some delineation and complexity towards the grapefruit finish. I much prefer the bouquet to the palate. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte Blanc 89-91
Tasted at the chateau. A blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Semillon and 5% Sauvignon Gris, this has a fresh nose of green apple, cold stone, just a touch of granite and smoke. Opening up nicely in the glass. The palate is very taut with notes of green apple, lime, apricot and green gage, just missing a little length towards the finish but it has a good weight and intensity and there is a hint of Mirabelle that develops on the nose that lends it another dimension. Fine. Tasted April 2010.

Pomerol
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2009 Chateau Le Bon Pasteur 93-95
Tasted at the Pomerol Syndicate tasting. A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, this has a ripe plum and macerated black cherry nose, that become quite floral and refined with aeration...but it needs patience to coalesce in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite silky tannin, very good grip with a well defined, quite tannic finish that has excellent freshness and backbone. This is a superb Bon Pasteur from Michel and Dany Rolland. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Certan-de-May 93-95
Tasted at JP Moueix. This is a Pomerol property flying under the radar at the moment and the nose here is marvellous: beautifully defined with exquisite blackberry, briary and minerals. The palate is medium-bodied with real tension and focus, almost understated on the entry, very harmonious with superb delineation towards the finish that is inflected with hints of bay leaf and thyme. This is a great 2009 from a vineyard that is really on song at the moment. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Clinet 92-94
Tasted at Chateau Clinet. The harvest commenced on 11th September with the young Merlot with the older vines being picked on 25th September and then 1st-4th September. The Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon was picked on 7th October. The Cabernet Sauvignon is very important in 2009 lending the wine freshness and part of the originality of Clinet. The final blend is 85% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc cropped at 45hl/ha (the highest of the decade) the Clinet '09 has a rounded, supple, fruit-driven nose with cassis, black plum and small black cherries. The palate is full-bodied with a lot of fruit concentration supported by some sturdy, grainy tannins, good delineation with a savoury/smoky touch towards the finish. The oak is better integrated than in recent years and there is a lovely spicy touch on the aftertaste from the Cabernets. Clinet is returning to the heights of the late-1980s. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Clos du Clocher 91-93
Tasted at Chateau Clinet. This has a very pure nose with brambly red-berried fruit, blackberry, raspberry leaf with hints of white flower developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied, very fine tannins and minerality, leading to grainy, tobacco tinged finish. This is a great Clos du Clocher, a "dark horse" of Pomerol. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau La Conseillante 96-98
Tasted at La Conseillante, cropped between 17th and 28th September at 39.5hl/ha and coming in with 14.2% alcohol, the '09 La Conseillante has a very refined bouquet, with dark berried fruit, sloe, a touch of dried orange peel and crushed stones. The understated nature of this Conseillante is a joy to behold. The palate is medium-bodied, slightly grainy tannins, very good balance, very natural and handling that alcohol better than many other Right Banks. Nice grip on the finish, just a touch of astringency, but complex with minerals, some smoky notes developing in the glass. This 2009 brims with character and is undoubtedly one of the great Conseillante's of modern times. Just ethereal. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau La Croix St. Georges 91-93
Tasted at Vintex. This has a well-defined, perfumed nose with notes of blackberry, cassis, a touch of mint and limestone. Very tight and refused to unfurl with time. The palate is full-bodied and well balanced, layers of black fruit with touches of tar and smoke, the acidity cutting nicely through the structure, rendering the finish well balanced, fresh and poised. Great focus and structure: this is destined to be a long-term La Croix St. Georges. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Clos l'Eglise 93-95
This has a fine, reserved but very well defined nose with pure blackcurrant and raspberry, developing some fine minerally notes with tie in the glass. Very fresh and vital. The palate is medium-bodied, well balanced, just a little hardness on the entry at the moment but that will soften with time. Grippy tannins on the finish, much more backward than either the 2007 and 2008 with a tobacco laced focused finish. Impressive, but definitely a vin de garde Pomerol. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Domaine de L'Eglise 92-94
Tasted at Chateau Trottevieille and on two separate occasion at the Syndicate. The Merlots were cropped between the 17th and 28th September, the Cabernet Franc on 5th October at 37hl/ha, a blend of 96% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc, this has a lifted nose that shows much great precision than recent vintages of this ancient Pomerol vineyard. Blackberry, wild hedgerow, a touch of espresso, smoke and with continued aeration more and more minerality. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, much greater precision and focus then any vintage that I have tried in recent years (which was most of them in December!) Fresh black, slightly earthy fruit, very fine persistency, this is unequivocally the first Domaine de L'Eglise that is realized the propicity of its enviable terroir on the Pomerol plateau. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau L'Eglise-Clinet 96-98
Picked between 14th and 28th September, a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, from a fresh sample opened half an hour before with the final assemblage, the L'Eglise-Clinet is adorned with a supremely intense bouquet, with ripe black fruits, black plum, black olive tapenade, a hint of liquorice and black truffle. Wonderful definition and sense of controlled power. The palate is full-bodied, voluminous in the mouth, an awesome structure, layers of mineral-rich black fruits counterpoised by a sense of weightless power towards the finish. In its own unique way, a monumental wine. Tasted April 2010.

2009 La Petit Eglise 91-93
Picked on 28th September, this pure Merlot has a delightful, beautifully defined nose where the terroir of Pomerol shine through probably better than any other vintage of La Petite Eglise. The palate is well balanced, superb definition, taut and very natural, lovely blackberry, raspberry leaf and a touch of burnt toast towards the linear, but unreservedly elegant finish. Superb. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau L'Enclos 89-91
Tasted at the Pomerol Syndicate tasting. This has a well defined bouquet, fleshy red-berried fruit, very clean and precise, nothing too ambitious, developing some lovely plum notes with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, good weight, slightly earthy but very fresh and vibrant towards the finish. This is a very fine L'Enclos. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau L'Evangile 91-93
Picked between 11th September until 7th October but with only six days of picking. Much of the Cabernet Franc was replanted in 2006 and 2007, so it represents just 5% of the blend. Delivering 14.6% alcohol and a pH of 3.73, the L'Evangile is very tight but delineated on the conservative nose. Blackberry, briary, a touch of cedar and sandalwood, the palate is full-bodied with silky smooth tannins on the entry. Great depth here, a voluminous L'Evangile, well-defined and very minerally and yet I can feel the presence of that alcohol on the heavy back palate. Hopefully it will settle down on the finish by the time of bottling. Let's see how this evolves by the time of bottling...I would like to see it engender more finesse. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Le Gay 94-96
Tasted at Chateau Le Gay. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, picked 26th , 29th September with the Cabernet Franc picked on the 7th or 8th October. The '09 Le Gay has a ripe, blackcurrant, briary, limestone tinged bouquet with very fine definition, opening up nicely with aeration with hint of orange sorbet and apricot. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, slightly chalky tannins, very fresh and well defined with a beguiling sense of symmetry and focus towards the precise finish. Very assured, but so tightly-wound at the moment. You know, I might prefer this to La Violette. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Gazin 94-96
Tasted at Chateau Clinet. This has a well defined, quite a cerebral bouquet with aromas of blackberry, Morello and a touch of liquorice, becoming more rounded and voluptuous with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with firm tannins, superb definition and minerality coming through on this Gazin, the best that I have tasted at primeur. Very precise towards the finish, very sophisticated. Wonderful. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Hosanna 90-92+
Tasted at JP Moueix. The Hosanna 2009 has a ripe, well defined nose with blackberry, coca, a touch of dark chocolate and bay leaf. Quite complex, but forward and generous. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly furry tannins on the entry, well balanced with good weight, a more lactic texture towards the finish that is well defined, but very linear at the moment, quite earthy towards the foursquare finish. This will need 5-6 years after bottling. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Lafleur 98-100
A blend of 47% Merlot and 53% Cabernet Franc, the Merlot cropped the 16th, 17th and 23rd September and the Cabernet Franc on 28th September and 1st October, representing around 50% of production in 2009. A lucid purple hue, the Lafleur '09 has a cerebral bouquet much like the 2008, but with perhaps a little more purity and femininity. Blackberry, a touch of small black cherry, some notes of violets coming through with aeration. The palate is full-bodied with firm, more masculine tannins than implied by the aromatics; deep broody dark fruits, blackberry, tar, graphite, more linear on the tightly wound finish where the minerality is really evident. More cohesive at this stage than any vintage I have tasted since the 2005, long and persistent towards the finish. Undoubtedly one of the wines of the vintage. Thrilling. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Pétrus 94-96
Tasted at Chateau Petrus. A bright purple colour. The nose is warm and inviting, very concentrated with raspberry, wild strawberry and more glycerine than I have encountered in previous vintages. The palate is full-bodied and very supple in texture, beautifully balanced and very sensuous, more a Petrus of texture than tautness or delineation, building on the palate, very good weight with a touch of citrus peel and a sprinkle of white pepper towards the finish. Long, long length with that hint of Schezhuan pepper on the aftertaste. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Le Pin 92-94
Picked on 22nd and 25th September from younger vines and then older, a blend assembled by Jacques Thienpont direct from barrel, delivering 13.5% alcohol and a pH 3.7, the '09 Le Pin has a very pure lifted bouquet of blueberry, blackberry, a touch of black plum and a hint of truffle. The palate is full-bodied with quite sinewy tannins, just a little aggression at the moment, which will be softened during elevage. A compact Le Pin at the moment, quite linear and strict towards the finish then a hint of spice on the aftertaste. I feel that this is not showing its best at the moment, but it should meld together nicely by the time of bottling. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau La Pointe 92-94
Tasted at Chateau Angelus. This has a pure, understated, well-defined nose that demonstrates far more breeding than in previous years, partly thanks to the brand new cellar that I witnessed being installed myself last September. It has very pure macerated black cherries, blueberry, cassis and a touch of fresh dates, good lift and growing all the time in the glass. The palate is full-bodied with fine tannins, good grip, very well focused and lovely poise. There is a slight masculinity to this wine, a firmness of structure and backbone that has perhaps been missing in recent vintages. It could do with a little more flesh just on the saline finish, but otherwise, this is a big step in the right direction for this Pomerol stalwart. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau Trotanoy 96-98
Tasted at JP Moueix. This has a super-concentrated nose with vibrant black fruits, black cherries, a touch of graphite and smoke, billowing with aeration. Very well defined and controlled. Hints of Xmas cake developing with time. The palate is full-bodied with thick, almost chewy tannins, but exquisite balance and harmony, this represents a Trotanoy that wants to make a big impression...and it does. Rounded, intense black, earthy/clayey fruit towards the finish that has immense persistency. Gargantuan! Tasted April 2010.

2009 Vieux-Chateau-Certan 92-94
The VCC '09 is a blend of 84% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, cropped from 21st September until 2nd October, offering 13.7% alcohol and a pH of 3.7. It has a ripe, lifted bouquet of blackberry, black plum, graphite and raspberry, but boy, do I miss that Cabernet Franc that Alexandre felt did not reach full maturity when he made the assemblage (the same happened in 1998.) The palate is medium-bodied, firm tannins, the Merlot doing its utmost to compensate for the Cabernet Franc. Good weight, notes of blackberry, a touch of white pepper and a citric thread of acidity, the finish just a little foursquare but opening and deepening with time. This is a very fine VCC, but not the profound Pomerol it might have been. Tasted April 2010.

2009 Chateau La Violette 93-95
Tasted at Chateau Le Gay. The Violette '09 has a well defined, subtle bouquet, almost understated compared to previous vintages, yet fragrant and almost floral in profile. Touches of dried apricot and Clementine just hovering off-stage. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, a wonderful sense of symmetry here although it is very linear and taut at the moment. Tightly-wound, very good grip, a touch of spice on the finish. This is a more masculine La Violette that should represent one of Pomerol's vin de gardes of the vintage. Tasted April 2010.

St Emilion
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2009 Chateau Angelus 92-94
Tasted at Chateau Angelus. Picked from 21st September until the 14th October, the Angelus '09 is a blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, the Angelus '09 has a well-defined, creamy bouquet with pure black cherry, cassis and a touch of creme de menthe. Very rounded and sensuous. The palate is full-bodied with firm grip, the tannins robust and structured, lending a masculinity to this Saint Emilion. Grippy on the finish with touches of dried herbs and tobacco although a second sample at a négoce was endowed with a more voluptuous finish. I prefer the finesse shown by Hubert de Bouard's Château Bellevue at present. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Ausone 97-99
Tasted at Chateau Ausone. A blend of 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot, cropped at just 27hl/ha (16,000 bottles) with the first passage of young Merlot vines on the plateau picked on 29th September, the older Merlot vines from the 2nd until the 6th October and then the Cabernet Franc on three days from 8th until 10th October. Leaving the sample for five minutes to open up, the Ausone '09 is bridled with a sensuous bouquet of blackberries, blueberry, violets, a touch of orange zest and a hint of vanilla from the new oak. The palate is medium-bodied with exceptionally fine focus and balance, very fine tannins, a thread of citrus lemon that is interwoven from the start to the finish, a feminine Ausone, perhaps less supple and more linear than other Saint Emilion 2009, but demonstrating much better structure and freshness. There is real vitality and joie-de-vivre that really evolves with aeration. Shimmering finish. Wonderful. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chapelle d'Ausone 91-93
Tasted at Chateau Ausone. A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc, the Chapelle d'Ausone has a ripe, well defined bouquet with just a little more warmth than usual, macerated black cherries, cassis, a touch of dried lemon peel, gaining definition all the time as it rests in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine but firm tannins, an enthralling sense of symmetry and focus here, the Cabernet Franc lending a little austerity to balance the ripe Merlot on the finish. Good length: as usual, this constitutes and over-performing Second wine. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Barde-Haut 91-93
Tasted at Clos l'Eglise. This has a very seductive nose, pure red-berried fruit, well integrated creamy new oak, very fine definition with kirsch, cranberry, wild strawberry and cedarwood. Just a little gas on the entry, a full-bodied, very tannic, sinewy palate, very powerful with layers of black, cedary fruit, in fact, more akin to a Left Bank than a Right Bank wine. Well balanced but very primal, almost broody at the moment. Grippy finish. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Beausejour-Bécot 92-94
Tasted at the Saint Emilion UGC, the Cabernet shows very well on the nose that has impressive clarity and precision: blackberry, black plum, crushed stone and a touch of graphite. Very good lift from the glass. The palate is very harmonious with silky tannins, succulent red-berried fruit, graphite and a touch of spice on the finish that fans out nicely across the palate. This is in superb Becot that will drink well for 15-20 years. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Bellevue 93-95
Tasted at Chateau Angelus. A blend of 98% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, the Bellevue '09 has a rounded, silky smooth nose of kirsch, orange liqueur, honey and cedar with fine definition and focus. This is a very classy bouquet. The palate is full-bodied with firm, structure tannins, very fine balance and focus, great purity and expression. Very good grip, a more masculine Bellevue but with greater breeding than in previous vintages, the minerality on the finish quite enthralling. Superb. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Belair-Monange 91-93+
Tasted at JP Moueix. There is a slight exotic touch to the aromatics of this Belair-Monange, candied red-berried fruits, a touch of orange-zest, apricot and dried honey. Well-defined, expanding with aeration with hints of vanilla essence. The palate is medium-bodied, very tight at the moment with firm tannins, quite compact and reticent, but there is certainly a sense of coiled-up energy towards the finish. Hopefully, it will be more expressive after bottling. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Bellefont-Belcier 93-94
Tasted at the Association de Crus Classé tasting at Grand Pontet. A very modern, quite glossy bouquet, although one of the better of its kind with pure black cherry, plum and cassis fruit, nicely delineated in an opulent style. The palate is full-bodied with fine tannins, judicious extraction here and it tells on the vibrant, minerally finish with excellent definition. Good length. This is a top class Saint Emilion. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Bellevue-Mondotte 90-92
Tasted at Chateau Pavie. Picked on the same day as Pavie-Decesse (12th October), cropped at 22hl/ha, a blend of 90% Merlot with 5% each of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon, this has a rich, opulent bouquet: black toasty fruit cloaked in warm alcohol, with hints of fruitcake and fresh fig emerging with time. The palate is full-bodied with dense tannins, though I think there is more minerality and sense of terroir coming through (at least at the moment) than the Pavie-Decesse. There is just a touch of dryness on the finish with creme de menthe and cassis lingering. Again, an opened bottle is showing more freshness and vigour. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Bergat 90-92
Tasted at Chateau Trottevieille, a blend of 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, cropped at just 10hl/ha due to the parcel on the plateau decimated by hail, hence just 15 barrels compared to the usual sixty. It has a very pure, lifted nose with fine definition: pure blackberry, bilberry, granite and a touch of smoke. The palate is very rounded on the entry, supple and lithe yet with good backbone, earthy black fruits, very harmonious towards the finish that shows commendable weight and persistency. Just a little sullen towards the finish, but hopefully it will brighten by the time of bottling. Excellent. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Berliquet 91-93
Tasted at the Saint Emilion UGC, this has a ripe, almost exotic nose that flirts with over-extraction (but only flirts.) The palate is well balanced with layers of sappy black fruit, good acidity and a finesse on the finish that counterpoises its power to the right degree. Harmonious and modern in style, this is a very fine 2009 from the estate. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Canon 92-94+
Tasted at the château and the UGC, the Canon '09 is a blend of 75% Merlot (picked 23rd to 28th September) and 25% Cabernet Franc (picked 2nd until 5th October) cropped at 35hl/ha and matured in 60% new oak, the crop reduced by 20% due to the hail. Delivering 14.5% alcohol and a pH3.7. The nose is fresh and lively, well defined with blackberry, briary, cedar, a touch of vanilla and an almost sorbet-like freshness. The palate is full-bodied with fine tannins, a powerful Canon, very well defined, a slight chalkiness coming towards the finish, a sharpness that lends freshness and vitality. A more masculine, structured Canon than I was expecting, but it will soften by the time of bottling. Excellent. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Canon-la-Gaffelière 93-95
Tasted at Canon-la-Gaffeliere, cropped between 1st and 10th October at 34hl/ha, this is a blend of 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, matured in 90% new oak, the bouquet takes a great deal of coaxing from the glass, reluctantly offereing blackberry, raspberry coulis, a scent of wet clay and mulberry. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins, off-dry, good weight in the mouth and fine definition, perhaps a little more austere than I anticipated but I like that (the coolness of the sample accentuating the tannins here.) A touch of savoury fruit towards the grainy finish, very good length and harmony, the pH plays a fundamental role in balancing the finish and engendering such freshness. Excellent. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Cheval Blanc 94-96
Tasted at the château. The Cheval Blanc is a blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, started picking on 15th September until the 7th October. The bouquet is very pure, tightly coiled at the moment with an almost Margaux-like veil. Very fine delineation and with time: touches of espresso entwine with the black cherry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with firm but fine tannins, that slight chalkiness to the texture, very good purity with that hint of espresso and minerals interwoven into the pure red fruits. Wonderful sense of symmetry here, the Cabernet Franc taking over towards the finish with just a faint hint of bell pepper and tobacco, more masculine towards the finish. Superb. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Le Petit Cheval 91-93
A blend of 65% Cabernet Franc and 35% Merlot, the bouquet is a little more generous than in previous years, with pure blackberry, blueberry, a touch of damson and limestone. Good definition. The palate is structured on the entry, that Cabernet Franc really defining the wine, very fine tannins though and lovely balance. Very pure and linear at the moment, but it skips along towards the finish without a care in the world. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau La Croix Figeac 91-93
Tasted at a negociant. Ripe black cherry and violets on the nose that is just lacking a little definition at this stage. Touches of cedar developing with some melted chocolate aromas. The palate is full-bodied with good delineation and fine balance. I like the freshness here, quite feminine, very focused with fine tannins, leading to a very pretty, fresh, pure finish that pleases no end. This is a great effort for 2009. Excellent. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Le Dôme 91-93
A blend of 80% Cabernet Franc picked on October 14th and 20% Merlot (additional Cabernet Franc from Vieux Chateau Mazerat) this has a very sleek nose with black cherries, cassis and liquorices, this has a full-bodied palate with delineated silky tannins, firm tannic grip, slightly chalky texture towards the finish with good persistency. The oak is very dominant at the moment so this will need time to meld into the fabric of the wine. Unashamedly modern in style. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Figeac ?
Tasted at the Saint Emilion UGC, this is rather mean and disjointed on the nose, the absence of fruit worrying. Tobacco and sous-bois mixed with a touch of dark chocolate, but there is a touch of under-ripeness lying off-stage. The palate has a rather mean entry, chewy tannins, a touch of savoury fruit and cooked meat on the back-palate, but it needs more freshness and depth on the finish. Figeac is always difficult to taste en primeur, but this sample does not do their '09 any favours. I've glowing reports elsewhere so I will leave it a question mark for now. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Fombrauge 92-94
A blend of 77% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, cropped between 6th and 22nd October at 27hl/ha, this has a super ripe nose of cassis, creme de menthe and kirsch. Exotic fruit in the background, becoming more intense with time. The palate is full-bodied with dense tannins, real weight here, firm grippy tannins, very polished and a nice edginess coming through towards the finish. A symmetry here that is very appealing. Excellent. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Fonroque 90-92
Tasted at the Association de Crus Classé tasting at Grand Pontet. I like the definition and the "coolness" on the bouquet: delineated black fruits laced with blueberry. The palate has a rounded, sinewy entry, thick layers of cassis and blueberry, delineated on the finish with good length. Not my style of Saint Emilion but I do think this is well crafted for its genre. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Clos-Fourtet 92-94
Tasted at the Saint Emilion UGC, this has a surprisingly light, airy but well defined nose that is pinched at the moment, opens nicely but slowly with aeration to reveal black cherries, blackcurrant, briary and minerals, a touch of dried orange peel developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, very pure and harmonious, slight chewy texture at first, then building to a spicy, tannic finish with very fine persistency. Though lacking a little cohesion on the finish, I think this will meld together to form a very fine Clos-Fourtet after bottling. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau La Gomerie 92-94
Tasted at a negociant. This has a very refined, well defined nose with pure black cherry and raspberry fruit with well integrated new oak. The palate is full-bodied with fine tannins, very good weight and purity, a sense of minerality and typicity showing through nicely on the ripe red-berried fruit.

2009 Chateau Grand Corbin Despagne 91-93
This has a well defined, lifted nose that is showing less of over-ripeness than other Saint Emilions. Raspberry, strawberry and a touch of tobacco, coalescing in the glass. The palate is very well balanced, good acidity, filigree tannins and great harmony towards the pure black cherry and plum finish. Good length. Very feminine. This is a superb effort. Bravo. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Grand-Mayne 92-94
Tasted at the Saint Emilion UGC, this has a ripe, black cherry, yellow plum and boysenberry nose with a touch of damson fruit. Moderate definition. The palate is medium-bodied, well balanced with fine tannins. I like the delineation and freshness on this Saint Emilion. Whereas in some years they have flirted with over-extraction, this is much more restrained with finer clarity and precision on the finish. Excellent. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Larcis-Ducasse 91-93
Tasted at the Association de Crus Classé tasting at Grand Pontet. A blend of 81% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc, this brims with ripe red-berried fruit on the nose with touches of wild hedgerow and wild strawberry. It is not as opulent as previous vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins, very harmonious and refined with touches of cooked meats/savoury inflected the red-berried fruit. This is lovely, if just missing a little tension on the finish. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Magdelaine 91-93
Tasted at JP Moueix. The 2009 Magdelaine is rounded and more voluptuous on the nose than in previous years, with lifted strawberry, mulberry and black plum. Very fine definition, perhaps one could say, a little more modern. The palate is medium-bodied with very good weight, the tannins very well defined, very pure black fruit with a saline touch towards the deft, silky smooth finish. Perhaps it lacks a little persistency, but one can only admire the focus and precision here. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Magrez-Fombrauge 90-92
Pure Merlot cropped at 20hl/ha between 5th and 8th October, this has a extremely ripe, opulent nose of red cherry fruit, blueberry, damson, kirsch and a hint of prune. Good definition considering how opulent it is. The palate is full-bodied, a little lower in acidity than others, grippy tannins, very pure and exotic and sappy, citrus tinged, cherry fruit towards the finish. Moderate length. Not quite my style, but well made. Tasted March 2010.

2009 La Mondotte 95-97
Tasted at Canon-la-Gaffeliere, cropped at 17hl/ha on 6th October and 13th October (Merlot and Cabernet Franc respectively), this is a blend of 80% and 20%. The La Mondotte '09 has a sensuous, opulent bouquet with ravishing red-berried fruits, black plum, cassis and a touch of fresh fig. The palate is medium-bodied with cashmere tannins, very harmonious with beautifully integrated oak, this 2009 actually reminds me of the sensational 2005. The minerality really comes through towards the finish. Vivacious. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Moulin Saint Georges 91-93
Tasted at Chateau Ausone. A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, cropped at 32hl/ha, the Moulin Saint Georges has a well defined, ripe, supple bouquet with notes of cassis, black plum, maraschino cherry and a touch of orange zest: harmonious and lifted. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins, a slight creaminess to the texture but it is not overdone. Very well balanced with fine tannins, very focused and lithe with pure red-berried fruits laced with a soupcon of vanilla pod towards the finish. Excellent. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Clos l'Oratoire 90-92
Tasted at Canon-la-Gaffeliere, cropped at just 20hl/ha between 7th and 12th October, a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, this has an opulent bouquet with pure black cherries, black plum, a touch of wet sand and a hint of cooked meat. The palate is medium-bodied with creamy new oak, quite plush, modern, but very seductive with a hint of savoury fruit, perhaps even a touch of dried salami towards the finish that adds another level of intrigue. Very fine. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Pavie 93-95?
Tasted at Chateau Pavie and then at a negociant. Cropped between 5th and 15th October at 28hl/ha, a blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. At the chateau: this has a very dense, introverted bouquet that opens up with aeration, to show some dense black fruit, boysenberry, kirsch and a touch of dried prune. Another bottle that had been open for 30 minutes is much fresher. The palate is full-bodied and well balanced, fine definition and brightness of fruit, not an elegant Pavie but it has panache. Firm grip on the finish with fine minerality. Excellent. The sample at the negociant had more forthright tannins that were very aggressive and dry on the finish. Difficult to pin down with so many different showings, hence the question mark for now. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Pavie-Decesse 90-92
Tasted at Chateau Pavie. Picked on 12th October at 26hl/ha, a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, this has a ripe, exotic bouquet lacquered in creamy new oak: macerated black cherries, creme de cassis, black plum and damson jam. Moderate definition. The palate is full-bodied with dense but well balanced tannins, showing more harmony and focus than the Monbousquet, the tannins less aggressive at this stage, although the mouth is still lacquered on the finish. Fine. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Pavie-Macquin 93-95
Tasted at the Saint Emilion UGC, this has a very ripe, almost porty nose that I think is just a little over-extracted (which is a great surprise.) Macerated black cherries, cassis, apricot jam and a touch of damson. Pretty, but less would have been more. The palate shows much better balance with fine, saturated tannins, fabulous concentration with layers of spicy red fruits on the ebullient finish. Leaving my sample aside for 10 minutes, that nose does calm down as I think it will through its elevage, after which I am sure this will represent one of the top Saint Emilion wines. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Clos Saint Martin 91-93
Tasted at the Association de Crus Classé tasting at Grand Pontet. This has an intense nose of blackberry, black plum, liquorice and hints of orange sorbet: gaining freshness all the time in the glass. The palate is full-bodied with grainy, saturated tannins, good balance, harmonious, not a subtle Clos Saint Martin but it has freshness and definition. Black cherries, blueberry and a touch of vanilla on the finish. Very primal but it should develop nicely in barrel. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Le Tertre-Rôteboeuf 92-95
Tasted at the chateau. This finished its alcoholic fermentation 8-10 days ago. This has a supremely pure, delineated bouquet that reminds me of a Grand Cru Burgundy! Blackberry leaf, a touch of raspberry, limestone and just a faint hint of orange-blossom. Very fine definition. There is a little gas on the entry from the fermentation, but the palate is well balanced, nice tension and purity, demonstrating a vibrant sense of minerality. Very linear towards the finish, stricter than the 2008 with a tensile blackcurrant and raspberry finish. Good length. This will surely blossom by the time of bottling, whereupon it may deserve a higher mark. Cerebral (as ever.) Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau La Tour Figeac 90-92
Tasted at the Saint Emilion UGC, although this is a rather bashful sample on the nose, it appears well defined and fresh with attractive blackberry, wild hedgerow and floral aromas. A ripe entry on the palate, quite tannin but harmonious, with fine structure towards the finish. Nice weight and persistency...this should mellow nicely throughout its elevage. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Troplong-Mondot 86-88?
Tasted at the Saint Emilion UGC. The nose is far more restrained than usual, but well defined with pure blackberry, black plum and a touch of cedar. The lacks if vigour is a little vexing although a second sample at a negociant showed more "intention" and developed nicely in the glass. The palate is full-bodied with sinewy tannins, firm structure, grainy texture with cedar and graphite infused black fruits. Quite assertive, rather unsettled by the high alcohol and lacking its usual harmony, whilst the tannins have an angularity and astringency on the finish. This is a rather perplexing showing on both occasions I tasted this wine. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Trottevieille 90-92
Tasted at Chateau Trottevieille. May 13th 2009 at four in the morning will be forever remembered as the time when this vineyard was almost destroyed by hail. With the help of Denis Dubourdieu and Gilles Pauquet, they opted to wait for the vines to grow rather then re-prune. The result is just 8,000 bottles of the 2009, a blend of 67% Cabernet Franc, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon (picked on 12th and 13th October) and just 31% Merlot picked on October 10th. So a very different Trottevieille: very pure on the nose, dense black fruits, slightly leafy with touches of tar and graphite from the Cabernets, the palate is full-bodied with rigid tannins at the moment, rendering this a much more masculine Trottevieille, but one not without balance and precision. What it lacks in depth, it compensates in elegance and finesse, although it would have been nice to have al little more fleshy Merlot on the finish. That notwithstanding, a victory stolen from the hands of disaster. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Valandraud 94-96
Tasted at Ets. Thunevin. Deep, limpid purple colour. It has a dense, ripe, opulent bouquet of black cherries, bilberry, black plum, honey and violets that spirals from the glass. The palate has a thick, chewy entry, huge weight in the mouth, but there is a counter-balancing citrus freshness, with fresh apricot and star fruit suffused into the pure red-berry fruit, a hint of liquorice curled like a snake around the finish. Very dense to the point of being impenetrable at the moment but at least there is no astringency on the finish and despite the opulence, the minerality comes through on the finish. Superb. Tasted March 2010.

Sauternes/Barsac
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2009 Doisy Daene L'Extravagant 98-100
There are probably around seven casks of the 2009 L'Extravagant de Doisy-Daene, although that may decrease a little after racking. An equal blend of Semillon and Sauvignon, it delivers a record 220gms residual sugar and yet still exudes astounding minerality and precision, with touches of clear honey, frangipane and cold wet stones. The palate is full-bodied with a mellifluous texture, perfect acidity to slice through that rich botrytized fruit, stunning balance, citrus peel, apricot, Clementine, lemon curd and a hint of ginger. With awesome length, leaving that tingling sensation akin to Szechuan pepper, this wine truly lives up to its name.

2009 De Suduiraut 97-99
One of the outstanding successes of the 2009 vintage, this may surpass the superlative 2007. It has a more understated nose at the moment, but is very well defined with honey, white peach, orange peel and crushed stones. The palate has a viscous entry, is very well balanced, very powerful with great depth and effervescent minerality. Layers of botrytis layer across the mellifluous finish that is beautifully defined and sensuous. Fabulous.

2009 Chateau d'Yquem 96-98
The 2009 Yquem has an almost ethereal nose, beautifully defined with scents of honey, honeysuckle, pear, fresh apricot and a hint of quince. It blossoms in the glass, gaining intensity and expanding across the ether. The immediate impression is not of a powerful, rich, botrytis-laden Yquem, but one that has semblances with the 2007 in terms of poise and precision, the acidity defining the wine in its youth and around that, subtle notes of honey, fig, pear, apricot and just a hint of ginger adding vibrancy and edginess towards the pure and tensile finish. As expected, there is extraordinary persistency, lingering in the mouth long after the wine has disappeared, yet it will remain long in the memory.

2009 Coutet 96-98
The Coutet 2009 is a sensational effort from Philippe Baly and his team. It has a fragrant nose of honey, vervain tea, pineapple, frangipane and apple-blossom, well defined if needing a little more vigour at the moment. The palate is vibrant on the entry, informed by touches of apricot and orange peel, very focused and tensile towards the long, sensuous, viscous finish. It has the same minerality exuded by Doisy-Daene and reminds me of a stellar '62 tasted just a few weeks previously. A magnificent Coutet.

2009 Climens 96-98
Picked in just two tries, 90% picked in one trie, tasting through 13 separate lots, the core components of a great Climens appear to be in place. Paying particular attention to the lots that constitute a large percentage of the blend (usually around 15%) the common themes are ones of great purity, persistency and precision. The aromatics display pure honey, minerals, occasionally a faint scent of spearmint and white peach, most with spellbinding precision. On the palate, Berenice Lurton has some stupendous lots at her disposal, with ample botrytis, ethereal definition, one or two more powerful, quite spicy lots and others that are shorter and will undoubtedly lend the blend an acidic cut. It will be a joy to taste this after bottling.

2009 Doisy Deane 96-98
Denis Dubourdieu has provided one of the genuine stars of the vintage with the Chateau Doisy-Daene, two, if you count his Extravagance. This has a very fragrant nose with apple blossom, lime leaf and a touch of honey. Very fresh and lifted...spring-like. The palate is very well balanced, not a powerful Sauternes but ethereally poised and focused, skipping blithely to an animated pear, honeysuckle and apricot finish. Very pretty, very complete and very outstanding.

2009 Chateau de Fargues 95-97
The nose is rather taciturn at first, unfurling with tantalizing slowness: clear honey, pear, orange-blossom and apricot. Wonderful definition. The palate is not as powerful as others, but there is a tangible sense of minerality underlying the honeyed fruit, very focused and endowed with breathtaking definition and tension towards the vibrant finish.

2009 Rieussec 95-97
The minerality and stoniness really comes through on the nose of this Rieussec, more than the 2007. The palate is very well balanced with superb acidity, real tension, steely with great precision with notes of apricot, white peach and honey on the beautifully defined finish. Probably the best Rieussec since the astounding 2001.

2009 Sigalas Rabaud 95-97
The Sigalas-Rabaud has a well defined nose: grapefruit, nectarine, honey and lime, much more primal than some of the other 2009s. The palate is very well balanced with excellent acidity: apricot, honeysuckle, a touch of orange zest and then vibrant white peach bursting across the finish with lime flower and lemongrass on the aftertaste. Wonderful persistency, power and freshness. Without question: the 2009 is the best Sigalas-Rabaud that I have tasted and this nectar comes highly recommended.

2009 Rabaud-Promis 94-96
This is initially very muted on the nose, but it unfurls seductively with subtle, perfumed aromas of lime leaf, white peach, fresh apricot and touches of white flowers: very pretty and well defined. The palate is beautifully balanced, so pure and succinct with wonderful precision towards the vibrant, white peach and apricot finish. This is a wonderful Sauternes and one of their best wines in recent years.

2009 La Tour Blanche 94-96
The 2009 La Tour Blanche is very primal on the nose with grapefruit, nectarine and apricot aromas. The palate is very well balanced, just a little oaky at the moment but with a very fine thread of acidity. Touches of fresh apricot, a hint of nougat, lime zest and white peach. Well balanced, linear at the front palate but voluminous and expanding across the mouth in every direction on the viscous, mineral-rich finish. There is so much potential here. Superb.

2009 Rayne-Vigneau 94-96
The 2009 Rayne-Vigneau is one of the stars of the vintage. It has a very well defined, almost understated nose with white peach, apricot and lime leaf: very pretty and succinct. The palate is very well balanced, beautifully defined with real minerality showing through the viscous, botrytized fruit. Great tension here, effortlessly counterbalancing the richness to perfection.

2009 Guiraud 94-96
The 2009 Guiraud is very tight on the nose, taking time to unfurl, with notes of apricot, peach, a touch of honeysuckle and quince. Good definition. The palate is impressive: tightly coiled, honeyed fruit, very fine acidity, linear at first then fanning out across the finish with notes of dried apricot, nectarine, a touch of almond and a faint hint of spice. With good length and unctuous on the finish, this Guiraud is impossible to ignore.

2009 Nairac 93-95
Nicolas Tari has certainly improved this estate in recent years. His 2009 has a well defined nose with apple-blossom, lime leaf, apricot and orange peel. Opens nicely the longer it remains in the glass. The palate is well balanced, very good weight on the entry with a citric thread of acidity interwoven through the pure honeyed fruit with a hint of ginger on the aftertaste. Nothing extravagant here, but supremely well crafted and succinct.

2009 Doisy Védrines 92-94
This is comparatively timid on the nose, giving very little away at the moment despite rigorous coaxing. But the palate is very promising, very well balanced, very focused with a fine citrus attack on the entry, fanning out towards an apricot, white peach and lime tinged finish that shows a great deal of unctuous honeyed fruit on the finish. This is an exuberant Doisy-Vedrines that yearns to offer pleasure.

2009 Lafaurie-Peyraguey 92-94
There is some SO2 masking the nose here, which is difficult to assess. However, the palate is well balanced with fine minerality, bright citrus fruit, orange zest, a touch of white peach and apricot, good tension towards the finish with a dash of lemongrass on the aftertaste. There is very good weight and botrytis on this Lafaurie Peyraguey that linger seductively.

2009 Raymond Lafon 92-94
There is a little SO2 on the nose at the moment. The palate is well balanced with a citric entry, touches of apricot and lime, tightly coiled towards the finish with the acidity slicing through the viscous honey fruit with a touch of Tropicana. Again, this is a very focused, tensile Sauternes with beguiling clarity.

2009 Domaine d'Alliance 92-94
This is an (as yet) undiscovered gem sourced from old vines around Fargues. It is blessed with a fragrant, lifted nose of pineapple, apple-blossom, rosewater and yellow flowers all with exceptionally fine definition. The palate has a vibrant entry that immediately grabs your attention: good acidity and balance. Fresh vibrant fruit with great clarity towards the lime leaf, lemon zest and honey tinged finish. This is so very pretty and caressing. Delectable .

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