Jancis Robinson

Jancis Robinson 2009 Bordeaux En Primeur Scores

If you would like to view individual appellations please select one of the headings below.

Pauillac › St Estèphe › Saint Julien › Margaux › Pessac Léognan › Mèdoc and Haut-Mèdoc › Moulis and Listrac › Bordeaux Blanc › Pessac Léognan and Graves (Blanc) › Sweet Whites › Saint Emilion › Pomerol

Pauillac

Ch d'Armailhac 2009 Pauillac 16.5+ Drink 2017-2030
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Picked 23 Sep – 6 Oct. Very dark crimson. Inky and fragrant with just a hint of farmyard. Black cherries for the first time on the left bank! Less obviously ripe and supple than many 2009s on the nose but then on the palate there's a sweet start and then a pretty chewy, slightly sinewy finish. Sweet and polished – not too much soul but an awful lot of effective artifice! Reasonably complete. More traditional tannin management than some. Fairly chunky.

Ch Batailley 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2019-2030
Bright crimson. Pretty deep. Succulent and sumptuous on the nose. Lots of sweetness. Just a little attenuated but should deliver satisfaction eventually!

Ch Clerc Milon 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2018-2030
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot, 1% Carmenère. Picked 23 Sep – 6 Oct.
Deep moody colour. Pretty sumptuous and polished – super-ripe and flattering. Very sweet and rich although, like the other wines from this stable, some slightly rugged tannins. No obvious alcohol but fairly ripe and plush, plus notable acidity. Fine boned with attractive sweetness but no knock-out ingredient X. Rather drying finish, imprecise. Certainly a defiantly more traditional style than some of its peers – odd, or perhaps predictable? – in view of the fact that it used to be criticised for being too New World!

Ch Croizet-Bages 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2017-2030
Blackish crimson. Briary rim. Sweet, slightly simple nose. But lots of density and lift on the finish. Quite high volatility but fun! Just a bit dry on the end. Faded a bit fast.

Ch Duhart-Milon 2009 Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2017-2029
63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot. Dark crimson. Scented and satiny with lots of lush mulberry fruit in the middle. Not at all flashy. Low key. Very dry, Cabernet finish. Polished again and sleek. Fine tannins. Not for the very long term but very beautifully made in a polished Cabernet way. Bone dry finish. More solid than Carruades. Light and lively on the finish. Sprightly – fully fledged status now. Not an also ran – though there is just a little astringency on the finish.

Ch Grand-Puy Ducasse 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2016-2028
Unusually deep crimson. Very dark crimson. Sweet candy nose. Not very dense but certainly very sweet in a candy way. Then pretty austere tannins. Pretty dry end.

Ch Grand-Puy Lacoste, Lacoste Borie 2009 Pauillac 16 Drink 2014-2019
Very dark crimson. Lightly soapy nose. Sweet and floral and lively. A little bit of alcohol and a lot of sweetness. Frank and fun. Even if not the most serious wine of the lot. Bit of a fast fade. A little simple. 13.3%

Ch Grand-Puy Lacoste 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2017-2030
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Very dark crimson. Dense and rich and supple – less obviously fresh than its Haut-Batailley stablemate. Very sweet and just a little lacking depth compared with some Grand-Puy Lacoste vintages. Sinewy.

Ch Haut-Bages Libéral 2009 Pauillac 15.5 Drink 2016-2026
Sweet and oddly floral on the nose...? Plus a note of greenness. Rather simple and austere. Did this really ripen properly?

Ch Haut-Batailley 2009 Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2016-2029
78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Very dark crimson. Serious nose. Then splendid breadth. Minerals and bright fruit. Really appetising. Racy. Lots of energy. Lovely stuff. 13.5%

Ch Lafite, Carruades de Lafite 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2015-2025
55% of the crop. 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Very deep crimson with a sliglty pale rim. And lots of blue in it – a bit of press wine? Sumptuous nose already. Lightly inky start but then luscious texture and so round and polished. Great freshness and enormous polish, Doesn't taste as though there was lots of press wine in here. Great round stuff. Just a little kick at the end and a very slight hole towards the very end of the palate – otherwise fabissimo. But quite early maturing?

Ch Lafite 2009 Pauillac 19 Drink 2020-2040
43% of the crop. 82.5% Cabernet Sauvignon(!), 17% Merlot, 0.5% Petit Verdot. Deep, lustrous, dark crimson. Mineral, low-key nose, slow to open, but it did with time into something really very refined with great minerality. Very muted and super-restrained. Very fine boned, with a bit more flesh than is usual for Lafite but no flashiness whatsoever. Bravo for making such a good wine in such a buoyant market. Even a hint of milk chocolate! Though no trace of oak. Very vibrant, very fine and a great undertow. Very complex and subtle indeed. Bone dry finish. A little less ethereal than usual. Super refined. Bravo!

Ch Latour, Pauillac de Ch Latour 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2017-2030
Colours remarkably similar for these three wines. with the Latour grand vin just a little less purple than the other two but all three very dense and concentrated purplish crimson. Mild and fresh on the nose. Not desperately expressive on the nose but with amazing roundness of fruit on the palate. Dry finish and truly Latour-like – nothing at all like a third wine! Surely way ahead of other AC Pauillacs de Latour. Testing the limits of vulgarity. Tastes a little bit more than its 13.64% but why not? Frédéric Engerer says it's a horizontal wine – Roman laid back. I wonder what they will charge for this? Very very lush – almost showing off! Just a little bit of hardness on the finish. Lots of press wine presumably – press wine from Forts de Latour. But masses of richness on the front. It will presumably always be a bit tough on the finish but it does deliver some of the Latour experience. 13.64%

Ch Latour, Les Forts de Latour 2009 Pauillac 18 Drink 2020-2035
Toasty and rich nose. Very plush and velvety – much more so than usual. Rich and velvety – such an amazing texture yet with Les Fort's solidity. Very firm backbone. Explosive. But it will need quite a time to come round. Very fine and deep. Hint of oyster shells. Lifted. Wonderful texture. Very tight and tense. Dry finish.

Ch Latour 2009 Pauillac 19 Drink 2022-2045
Very deep and glowing crimson. Very rich and sweet ink on the nose. Wonderfully gorgeous and lush on the front palate. Then lots of heat and richness. Amazing power of fruit on the mid palate gives way to extremely pronounced tannins. Transparent, mellifluous, spicy. Violets, says Engerer. Dry Taylors port? Latour backbone. Glossy ripe fruit. Candied violets. Maybe in 03 we went overboard. Enormous energy. Very impressive.

13.7%

Ch Lynch Bages 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2016-2028
Dense crimson. Rich and spicy and lifted. Really rather flirtatious. Not heavy or dense but very nicely balanced without aggressive notes of rough tannin or greenness.

Ch Lynch-Moussas 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2016-2026
Well balanced but not that concentrated on the nose. Sweet and easy and with a hint of air freshener. A little chewy on the end. Cocoa powder. Perfectly nice but without real distinction.

Ch Mouton Rothschild, Le Petit Mouton 2009 Pauillac 16 Drink 2018-2026
63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc – one of the highest proportions of Cabernet Franc. Very solid and rather arresting on the nose. Then just a little rustic on the palate. Chewy tannins – not the ultra-suppleness of, say, Carruades and Les Forts. More of an obvious second wine? Rather drying tannins on the finish.

Ch Mouton Rothschild 2009 Pauillac 18.5 Drink 2020-2040
48% of the crop, picked 3 days earlier than usual because the grapes were so ripe. Average yield 45 hl/ha. 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot. Very dark indeed. Very Mouton. Very exotic, minerals, spice and old ladies' handbags. Lovely topnotes. Real excitement on the nose here. Obviously great density but lots of grace notes. Lovely palate entry and glossy texture. Then again drier and a little more astringent than its peers on the finish. A difficult wine to mark because the nose is SO gorgeous! I think it may require just a bit more patience than some. Just seemed in a slightly low register when I tasted it. All the Mouton wines had ruder tannins than usual in 2009.

13.1%

Ch Pedesclaux 2009 Pauillac 15.5 Drink 2015-2019
The well-heeled new owners have apparently just bought a massive area near Lafite. Mid crimson. Warm toasty nose. Very sweet – almost exaggeratedly sweet. Lots of toasty oak. Very far from classic!

Ch Pibran 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2014-2019
60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, between Pontet-Canet and Grand-Puy Lacoste. Merlot on limestone – unusual. This is only 65% of production. 50% new oak. IPT (total polyphenol index) 81. Very dark. Very scented and floral – lilies? Exotic scent and then just a little leaner on the palate. Finishing a bit dry but lots of impact and flashiness. Less flesh than many 2009s. Maybe very slightly hard on the finish. Really very nice wine. GV?

Ch Pichon-Longueville (Baron), Les Tourelles de Longueville 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2014-2020
61% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc. Not young vine stuff – that goes into another wine. Half in screwcap since 2004. Nervy. Really quite chewy on the end. Light and lively and fresh and vivacious. Quite delicate. Warm, rich, very juicy, fruit juice. Sold a little en primeur but not via the Bordeaux Place, through their négociant instead. IPT (total polyphenol index) 78.

Ch Pichon-Longueville (Baron) 2009 Pauillac 18 Drink 2018-2030
33 hl/ha, older vines. Two thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, one third Merlot – they say Merlot quality in 09 was very Cabernet Sauvignon-like. IPT (total polyphenol index) 88, TA 3.4 g/l. One of the most concentrated vintages ever – from fruit not extraction. Very very dark crimson. Very mineral and grown up. Lovely lift and great, polished tannins. Very fresh and fine tannins with density and lift on the finish. Very sophisticated. Lots of mass. Remjnds me a little of their 1990, though the yields were very much lower in 2009. Very glossy and confident. Very sophisticated. 13.8%

Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Réserve de la Comtesse 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2015-2023
Dark crimson. Very fragrant. Lifted, luscious and lively. Relatively light bodied and flirtatious. More transparent than most 2009s. Just a bit angular and sinewy. Fades just a little fast.

Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2017-2030
Dark crimson and a little more complex-looking than the Réserve de la Comtesse. Heady and rich and spicy and lightly gamey. Very solid and dark and dense – almost brooding. Sweet, polished and fun. Just lacks a bit of bottom and density on the palate. Very flirtatious. Complete and savoury on the finish with very polished tannins. Appetising and not at all forced. But not the most ambitious 2009.

Ch Pontet-Canet 2009 Pauillac 18 Drink 2020-2035
Yields a bit more than in 2008, with more grand vin too. 81 ha total vineyards. This year they are trying for 24 ha by horse. They can't tell us the alcohol but think it's 13-13.5%. Very dark crimson. Firm and broad and very lively with real vibrant elderberry nose - there IS a bit of extra vitality in this wine! Very very nice and satisfying indeed. There is life to this and great breadth and depth. Intense richness that seems to come from the fruit rather than from winemaking. Something of Lafite's complexity and integrity. Plus Mouton's richness. Dry finish. Very well done. But it is not a wine you want to undertake young – still lots to sort out. Much less open than most. Dense – really quite dry on the end but appetising though very long term. Muscular.

St Estèphe
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Ch Calon-Ségur 2009 St-Estèphe 18 Drink 2018-2030
Dark crimson. Wonderful electric vitality on the nose. Great vibrancy. Great integrity in the same way as Pontet-Canet is seamless right through the palate – great line. Pure and dense and polished. Really vibrant. Lovely minerality on the finish. Complete.

Ch Capbern Gasqueton 2009 St-Estèphe 17.5 Drink 2016-2026
From the Calon-Ségur stable and very impressive! Blueish purple crimson. Very juicy and meaty. Lively fruit. Polished. Great vitality. Very much St-Estèphe on the finish. Minerals. But a quite amazing amount of sweetness on the front palate. Really wonderful expression of St-Estèphe 2009 – though not of St-Estèphe in most vintages. VGV

Ch Cos d'Estournel, Pagodes de Cos 2009 St-Estèphe 15.5 Drink 2015-2020
Very deep crimson – a real glow. Floral nose – rather exotic but with a few notes of greenness. Thick and sweet on the front end, almost tarry – very drying tannins on the finsh after massive sweet hit. A bit overripe. Just too much. Drying tannins on the finish. Apparently the old Marbuzet fruit goes into Pagodes.

Ch Cos d'Estournel 2009 St-Estèphe 16.5+ Drink 2024-2040
IPT (total polyphenol index) 99 is volunteered, along with 14.5%, TA 3.1 g/l (sulphuric, ie 4.75 tartaric), pH 3.69. 56% of the crop went into Cos. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 80% new barrels. Prats: 'A bit like 2003, average yield 33 hl/ha. We had to reject all the [most stressed] south-facing parcels where the vines shut down. It's a very atypical, baroque Cos.' Very dark indeed. Blackish crimson. Not much scent though obviously very ripe. Firmer than some of the more obvious Napa Valley-style wines in 2009 with the tannins much more obvious. But a coolness on the finish. This may come round eventually. It is much more demanding than most 2009s and will need SO long. A very exaggerated wine with a bit of a hole in the middle. A definite lack of freshness. Does remind me a little bit of Pavie 2003. To be generous I'm assuming that in the far distant future it may resolve itself but I can't quite understand why they let the grapes get so ripe. Harvest dates are pretty similar to Ch Latour but the results are very different. 14.5%

Ch Cos Labory 2009 St-Estèphe 17 Drink 2018-2032
Very dark and concentrated. Super-ripe, borderline brett? Thick and sweet. Very glamorous and heady. Not a trace of St-Estèphe austerity. Extraordinary indeed!

Ch Lafon-Rochet 2009 St-Estèphe 16.5 Drink 2018-2028
Very dark. A slightly burnt note. Very much taken to the limit. A bit awkward in terms of tannins but with refreshment.

Ch Meyney 2009 St-Estèphe 16 Drink 2016-2023
Blackish crimson. Rather savoury and cool on the nose – rather different from most St-Estèphes. Thick and sweet and then horribly dry on the end. Very drying. Austere finish. May just get there in the end; I give it the benefit of the doubt...

Ch Montrose, La Dame de Montrose 2009 St-Estèphe 16 Drink 2014-2020
28% of production. 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 82% Merlot. Light nose, slightly soapy, with obviously a lot of substance underneath. Very rich and full and succulent but not awfully refreshing. Just a tad heavy. Then rather raw tannins on the finish. A bit ungainly. Very much a second wine rather than a wine sculpted in its own right. 13.8%

Ch Montrose 2009 St-Estèphe 16.5 Drink 2017-2029
72% of total production. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Picked 17 Sep to 5 Oct, much earlier than Cos! Average yield 38 hl\ha. Extremely dark crimson with strong purple notes. Low-key but modestly confident nose – much more married than some recent vintages. Pretty raw and austere and very much St-Estèphe. Very inky finish. Lovely nose and succulence but a little bit tough on the end. Certainly harks back to classical St-Estèphe in a way that Cos very much doesn't. 13.7%

Ch Les Ormes de Pez 2009 St-Estèphe 17+ Drink 2017-2030
Very dark. Lively and dense and complex. Thick and sweet. Pretty dry finish – arguably more typical St-Estèphe than most. Lots there, not least alcohol, but a wine to reckon with!

Ch de Pez 2009 St-Estèphe 16 Drink 2017-2028
Blackish crimson. Rather savoury and cool on the nose – rather different from most St-Estèphes. Very dense and then juicy. Thick and sweet and then horribly dry on the end. Plays the ripe-juice card with a bit of acidity and austerity on the finish. Very drying. May just get there in the end; I give it the benefit of the doubt...

Ch Phélan Ségur 2009 St-Estèphe 17- Drink 2016-2028
Very dark. Sweet palate entry and very round. Maybe picked just a tad too late to be refreshing? Thick and sweet and full. But if you like this sort of New World style, you will enjoy this very much. Just a little bit of heat on the finish.

Saint Julien
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Ch Beychevelle 2009 St-Julien 16.5 Drink 2017-2027
Pretty dark crimson right out to the rim. Alluring graphite notes on the nose. Fresh and mild. Not dramatic but neat and pretty. Very sweet but with the tannins in check. Though it will take a little while for them to dissipate. Real juice and concentration though.

Ch Branaire Ducru 2009 St-Julien 16.5+ Drink 2017-2027
Dark crimson with a pale rim. Very light nose with a rather unwelcome note of coconut. Sweet start and very fondu. Just a little simple but lusciously so. I am perhaps looking a gift horse in the mouth here – though the tannins on the finish are pretty rustic. If this were sold at an attractive price it would please many. Some real succulence.

Ch Ducru-Beaucaillou, La Croix de Beaucaillou 2009 St-Julien 16.5 Drink 2017-2028
75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. From the centre of the appellation area and all the young vines too. Deep crimson. Lively and fresh on the nose. Sleek, polished, very sweet and frank – black fruits on the palate. 60% new oak. Dries out a bit on the finish. A little exaggerated. Cool and drying on the finish.

Ch Ducru-Beaucaillou 2009 St-Julien 17 Drink 2019-2030
45 hl/ha, 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot. IPT (total polyphenol index) was 90 (ie high).
Very dark crimson. Crimson, purple rim. Dense and peppery and quite mineral. Much more serious on the nose than the Croix de Beaucaillou. Very polished. Lots of energy. Bone dry, spicy finish. Pretty drying tannins. Not really as soft as Bruno Borie maintains, I think. Cool and slightly tarry. Very very youthful. 13.5%

Ch du Glana 2009 St-Julien 16- Drink 2014-2018
Dark crimson. Meaty and lively on the nose. Very rich and welcoming and nicely balanced for early drinking, though a little green on the finish.

Ch Gloria 2009 St-Julien 17 Drink 2015-2023
Full, rich and explosive on the nose. Very subtle and well balanced and gorgeous. Dry not drying finish. The zest of St-Julen with a hint of white pepper and clove. Nice wine!

Ch Gruaud Larose 2009 St-Julien 16.5 Drink 2016-2028
Dark crimson. Interesting leathery, almost Syrah-like notes. Very neat and satisfying. Savoury. Just a little austere on the finish. Drying tannins on the end. Very sweet.

Ch Lagrange, Les Fiefs de Lagrange 2009 St-Julien 16.5 Drink 2014-2018
A little fusty on the nose but great balance and completeness on the palate. Very civil indeed.

Ch Lagrange 2009 St-Julien 17 Drink 2016-2028
Dark crimson. Purple rim. Very sweet indeed on the nose – unusually so for St-Julien. Glamorous and luscious with a hint of ink and freshness. Lots to enjoy! The tannins are very well handled and it's pure pleasure. Maybe lacks just a hint of freshness.

Ch Lalande Borie 2009 St-Julien 17 Drink 2016-2026
Very fresh and sappy nose. Sweet start but fresh and zesty. Chewy finish. Nice elegance and racy. Maybe not the longest lived wine. INAO decided to use Napoleonic system to identify parcels – soils quite different. Slightly green and sinewy on the finsh.

Ch Langoa Barton 2009 St-Julien 16.5 Drink 2018-2030
Mid crimson with quite a pale rim. Pretty light – early picked? There's a nice freshness and neatness to this but it's overall a bit dry and grainy. 'Classic style'... Rather dry on the end.

Ch Léoville Barton 2009 St-Julien 17+ Drink 2018-2034
An intense nose with some strange oak note? Sweet, light, polished start. Pretty sinewy. A bit austere. Needs a lot of time. Deliberately slimline? But a very good complex undertow. A very slow burner.

Ch Léoville Las Cases, Le Petit Lion 2009 St-Julien 17 Drink 2015-2023
First vintage was 2007. Strange label with a baby lion superimposed within the famous Las Cases arch. Paler than Potensac. Tea and Earl Grey and sensitive and very fresh. A promising debut! Luscious and transparent and probably for quite early consumption but with a twist of first-growth quality. Real energy and tingle. He pulled out lots of vines in the Clos and these are the young vines (average age 5-10 years).

Ch Léoville Las Cases, Clos du Marquis 2009 St-Julien 17 Drink 2017-2029
Too much Merlot in here, he says. Very deep crimson. Hint of smoked meat on the nose. Not as immediately charming as the Petit Lion on the nose though very sweet and Merlot on the palate. A little dry on the finish. Neither fish now fowl?

Ch Léoville Las Cases 2009 St-Julien 18 Drink 2020-2040
Very deep crimson. Subtle with great depth of fruit and a hint of tobacco. This seems much sweeter and lusher than Léoville Las Cases usually does even if there is a lot of tannin underneath. Really quite voluptuous – what Bruno Borie claimed in Ducru? – but lots of fancy tannin and a bit of alcohol on the finish. Very firm but a bit of a step change with all that sweetness on the top.

Ch Léoville Poyferré 2009 St-Julien 17.5 Drink 2018-2032
Very dark crimson. Very grown-up and intense. Luscious fruit and top quality savoury oak. Very sweet start – really quite unusually sweet for a St-Julien. Very complete, lip-smacking and satisfying. Glamorous, polished. Long. Quite complex.

Ch St-Pierre 2009 St-Julien 17+ Drink 2020-2032
Very deep dark crimson – glossy colour. Aromatic and lifted. A little bit brutal in its make-up but very ambitious and introvert. Solid and dry on the finish. Very drying finish.

Ch Talbot 2009 St-Julien 17 Drink 2018-2030
Some development at the rim. Light, graphite nose not without its attractions... Very sweet start but lifted and easy and utterly relaxed. Slightly dry tannins on the end. But very solid effort. Nice neat persistence.

Margaux
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Ch d'Angludet 2009 Margaux 17 Drink 2016-2030
Very dark purplish crimson. Exotic scents of lilies and citrus peel – unusual! Sweet, soft and polished. Juicy and well done. Though much more intense and New Worldy than classic Margaux. Fun.

Ch Bellevue de Tayac 2009 Margaux 16.5 Drink 2014-2027
Dark crimson, very intense, 10% Petit Verdot. A bit raw and crude – much, much more concentrated than most Margaux. Racy, tense and concentrated. Turbo-charged Margaux.

Ch La Bessane 2009 Margaux 16 Drink 2016-2023
Very juicy, lively and playful. Well balanced. Just a little bit more forceful than classic Margaux but with lots of energy. A little bit austere on the finish.

Ch Brane-Cantenac 2009 Margaux 16 Drink 2015-2027
Scented and sweet. Rather a heady perfume. Then sweet and sour on the palate – not especially harmonious or integrated, and there is some greenness about the acidity. Serviceable rather than thrilling.

Ch Cantenac Brown 2009 Margaux 16 Drink 2016-2028
Dark crimson. Intense meat extract savoury nose. Then rather loose on the palate with the furry tannins coming in only on the very end. Reasonably dramatic wine, not at all in the classic Margaux mould. A little drying on the finish, and just a slight lack of freshness. But certainly it has pzazz and impact. Determinedly modernistic.

Clos des Quatre Vents 2009 Margaux 16 Drink 2014-2018
1.2 ha of 80-year-old vines. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. Dense crimson. Polished oak and lots of sweet polished fruit but without real density. A bit loose and raw.

Ch Dauzac 2009 Margaux 16.5 Drink 2015-2027
Very rich and thick and sweet – almost tarry nose. Massive colour coats the inside of the glass. Quite a monster! Very plush and big and sweet. Most unusual. Could be drunk without food in the noisiest of bars and it would still make an impact. Pretty alcoholic.

Ch Desmirail 2009 Margaux 17 Drink 2016-2026
Very deep crimson. Minerals and interest on the nose. Round and supple and really very gorgeous indeed. I like the lead-pencil character and the coolness. Very refreshing, A complete, fairly forward wine. Skilfully made and beautifully balanced. A very successful Desmirail!

Ch Durfort-Vivens 2009 Margaux 17 Drink 2016-2028
Very dark crimson. Heady, sweet and powerful on the nose. Alcoholic. Not one of the most exaggerated, but with a little excess simple sweetness. Pretty good. I'm sure that in a vertical it would look great. Even if in a horizontal it might look slightly less impressive. Long and very slightly toasty. Sinewy finish.

Ch Ferrière 2009 Margaux 16.5 Drink 2015-2027
Not the deepest colour. Sweet, spicy, glucose sort of nose. Very vaguely inky. Then quite tart and with some drying tannins. Not too exaggerated or alcoholic but not the most mellow. Fresh finish.

Ch Giscours 2009 Margaux 16 Drink 2016-2026
Very dark and lustrous. Odd herbal note. Very sweet start on the palate. Rather drying tannins but some Margaux polish and not too hot until the very end. A little drying and exaggerated on the finish.

Ch d'Issan, Blason d'Issan 2009 Margaux 16 Drink 2013-2018
Scented, herbaceous, quite light and lightly green on the nose then sweet and easy. Very Margaux. Bravo! But a fairly lissom thing. Slight leanness on the finish. They were initially worried by the high proportion (38%) of Merlot.

Ch d'Issan 2009 Margaux 17 Drink 2015-2027
May 11 hail meant yield was just 35 hl/ha. We were shown a sarment with scars like machine-gun fire on one side and satin smooth on the other.
Dark, intense nose. Very smooth and satin-like with the tannins extremely ripe underneath. Very similar blend to Blason, 40% Merlot, same as in 2005. Fresh and ripe and easy. With a nice kick on the finish. This should last a lot longer but it's very much in the same style.

Ch Kirwan 2009 Margaux 16 Drink 2017-2028
Glowing crimson. Very sweet start. Something almost animal about this on the nose. Just a bit awkward in terms of oak – mellow and well seasoned enough?

Ch Labégorce 2009 Margaux 17 Drink 2016-2026
Dark blackish ruby. Fragrant and natural on the nose. Sweet and mellow. Nicely done. A little tension on the finish. Not pushed to excess. This could be from a terroir that is less favoured usually but one that is benefiting from 2009 overdrive. May not last as long as some. Very, very slightly light.

Ch Lascombes 2009 Margaux 16.5 Drink 2016-2028
Very dark crimson. Sweet malted milk plus linseed oil. Very sweet start and then lusciously worked tannins. A bit Napa Valley rather than Margaux but there is lots of pleasure here. Just rather awkward tannins on the finish.

Ch Malescot St-Exupéry 2009 Margaux 17.5 Drink 2017-2032
Lovely sap on the nose here – really appetising. Round and gentle – could do with just a tad more freshness perhaps. But there is so much crammed in here for the future... Persistent and promising.

Ch Margaux, Pavillon Rouge 2009 Margaux 17 Drink 2016-2025
41% of the crop. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot, 29% Merlot. Pontallier says: 'We were tempted to make a Pavillon better than ever. Luscious but light. Stricter selection for Pavillon than usual.' Bright crimson. Very fragrant, like the Issan. Quite low key. Very sweet palate entry and light and just a little herbaceous on the palate. Some chew as though the lots with the least ripe tannins went into this. Deep throat warming finish though. Very pure. 13.3%

Ch Margaux 2009 Margaux 19+ Drink 2018-2035
The Cabernet was so good, it was easy to decide the blend for the grand vin –including 87% Cabernet Sauvignon. Blended early Feb. 2009 reminds Pontallier of 1990 because of its lushness. The grand vin was 36% of the crop. pH 3.79, TA 3.3 g/l
Very dark crimson. Sumptuous nose – just gorgeous. So fine, so ripe but with lovely freshness too. Margaux finesse. Truly a wonderful nose. The nose is really the thing already. Will it ever be difficult to drink? Breadth across the palate. Just wonderfully relaxed and fresh and beautifully balanced. Soft tannins on the finish, very very long. We debate whether the texture is cashmere or silk. 13.3%

Ch Marquis de Terme 2009 Margaux 17 Drink 2020-2035
Very dark. Intensely meaty nose. Colour stains the inside of the glass. Pretty strong oak influence but at least it's savoury as opposed to sweet oak. Very ambitious indeed. Needs lots of time. Quite nervy. Long. A little exaggerated but not in supersweet mode, which is why I'm giving it the benefit of the doubt – but the doubt is there!

Ch Monbrison 2009 Margaux 16 Drink 2016-2026
Mid to dark crimson. Light nose. Quite tart. Drying tannins on the finish. Not comfortable at the moment.

Ch Palmer, Alter Ego de Palmer 2009 Margaux 16.5 Drink 2015-2025
49% Cabernet Sauvignon. 51% Merlot. Very dark crimson. Very sweet and potent with masses of black fruits. Attractive scent but almost soupy! Big and bold and a sort of cross between New World style and Palmer sinewy influence. Very dramatic. Very round and a little bit inky on the end. Quite aggressive. Falls apart a bit on the finish. A little bit green on the finish. 13.7%

Ch Palmer 2009 Margaux 18 Drink 2018-2035
41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 52% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot. Lustrous dark crimson. Very sweet and opulent on the nose. Very charming and glamorous. Much more of an expression of Merlot than many Médocs in 2009. Big and glamorous – a slightly Italian note. This year obsessed by extraction even more than usual. Prefer to play with press wines later. New from Parsec, a robot that turns though three dimensions. Experimented in 2008 for gentle extraction. Italian elan. Fresh.

Ch Prieuré-Lichine 2009 Margaux 16.5 Drink 2016-2027
Very pale rim. Sweet, heady nose. Very sweet start on the palate and perhaps not quite enough refreshment factor? Tannins slightly rustic but there is lots of pleasure here.

Ch Rauzan-Ségla 2009 Margaux 17.5 Drink 2016-2026
Dark crimson. Light and fragrant. Thick on the palate, almost soupy! Should give lots of pleasure – does not need food. One to drink at the bar... Lots of care in tannin management, I would have thought. A wine with real intensity.

Ch Rauzan-Gassies 2009 Margaux 16 Drink 2017-2030
Sample a little tired? Very thick and concentrated. Almost brutal. Lots of concentration. Far from relaxed. This wine has a furrowed brow... Dry tannins. But it would certainly be impressive in a vertical tasting.

Ch Siran 2009 Margaux 17 Drink 2017-2028
Quite high volatility. Quite exciting though. Sinewy with lots of ripe fruit and quite a bit of acidity on the finish. Fades just a little fast.

Ch du Tertre 2009 Margaux 17.5 Drink 2016-2028
Lightly treacly nose. Interesting. Very different sort of nose. The fruit is kept in check – not too aggressively sweet. Tamped down to provide much more of a classic Margaux style but with lots of pleasure. Very cool indeed.

Graves – Pessac Léognan
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Ch Baret 2009 Pessac-Léognan 16.5 Drink 2016-2023
Very dark crimson. Very sweet and succulent. Just enough acidity. Not too drying on the finish. Nicely judged - better than some of the grands crus.

Ch Brown 2009 Pessac-Léognan 16.5 Drink 2014-2023
Oddly aromatic! Perhaps just a tiny tad overripe but relaxed and easy and really quite opulent. Take it easy sort of wine. Nice drink. Fragrant sort of Cabernet Franc type of nose. Reasonably gentle texture. A little heat on the finish but generally well judged.

Ch Carbonnieux 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17 Drink 2018-2032
Lift and succulence on the nose. Then cool and admirably dry. Sandy but not sandpapery tannins. Appetising. For the elegant long haul.

Ch Carmes Haut-Brion 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17.5 Drink 2018-2030
Some race and savour. Glossy fruit and real succulence. Pretty dry on the finish but not exaggeratedly drying. One can see Graves here thank goodness! Intense and reasonably complex and ambitious for the long term.

Dom de Chevalier 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17.5+ Drink 2018-2030
Strong Cabernet aromas. Unusual! Well balanced and zesty. This seems what Pessac-Léognan should be. Very dry but not drying on the finish. Complete and full of minerality.

Clos Marsalette 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17 Drink 2014-2028
Very dark crimson. Freshness of Pessac and the richness of 09. So sweet and thick and exciting. Real tension and fireworks. Long and tarry. Pushing to the limit without exaggeration. Quite gamey on the nose and pretty extreme in terms of ripeness. Obviously there has been a battle to keep it appetising, but I think the battle has been won.

Ch Couhins 2009 Pessac-Léognan 16.5 Drink 2015-2023
Very dark. Rather glamorous and glossy on the nose. Sweet start and very polished – verging on too black fruited but it keeps itself fun to drink – just a more opulent side of Pessac-Léognan than usual.

Ch Couhins-Lurton 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17.5+ Drink 2016-2028
Really very subtle on the nose with some development at the rim and it has been judged just right - both texture and flavour are great. Better than many a grand cru. So much pleasure and balance. Opulent but not sweet or fat or raisined.

Ch Haut-Bailly 2009 Pessac-Léognan 16 Drink 2017-2026
Rather pale. Lifted and gentle and a little muted and tart but certainly appetising. Just the merest hint of green?

Ch Haut-Bergey 2009 Pessac-Léognan 16 Drink 2016-2028
Very ripe. Sweet and round with a little fragrance. Pretty drying on the finish. A bit too much like hard work?

Ch Haut-Brion, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17+ Drink 2020-2032
The renamed second wine of Haut-Brion that was once called Bahans. Deeper, less blue colour than the Chapelle de La Mission. Very subtle nose that pulls you in but doesn't broadcast much. Pretty firm tannins. Really quite severe at this point. Very different from the buxom norm of this vintage. Very dense indeed. This will need a long, long time. Pretty ambitious....

Ch Haut-Brion 2009 Pessac-Léognan 19 Drink 2018-2040
57% of the crop went into this. The alcohol level was 14% in 2005 when there was lots of Merlot, but in 2009 when the assemblage was 46% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, it reached 14.3%, the highest ever. What problems did this cause? Jean-Philippe Delmas was asked. 'To find the right yeast.' He smiled, adding, 'and the fermentation was very long: three weeks with a very long malolactive fermentation. This was the first time they had such high alcohols with Cabernet.
Dark crimson with a little more blue than La Mission. LOVELY supple exciting nervy nose with a great deal of integrity and complexity already. Reminds me a little of Ch Margaux in its immediate appeal and class, even if the actual aromas are different (though equally terroir-driven). Real knockout stuff with lovely suppleness on the palate and real grace. Not a blockbuster, amazingly; it seems beautifully balanced. It has the same dense tannic charge but with a bit more fruit and less austerity than La Mission. Very long. So it's definitely Haut-Brion, just more concentrated than usual! Lots of pleasure and luxury. 14.3%

Ch Haut-Nouchet 2009 Pessac-Léognan 16.5 Drink 2014-2022
Lovely label with well-drawn tree. Perfumed. Some good freshness. Real race and life. Appetising dry finish.

Ch Haut-Vigneau 2009 Pessac-Léognan 16.5 Drink 2015-2023
Unusually dark crimson. Pretty ripe but nice and fleshy and appetising on the palate. An attractive drink even if not so ambitious. GV?

Ch La Mission Haut-Brion, La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17.5 Drink 2019-2030
Deep purple with good complex savour on the nose. Relatively high volatility and a really firm tannic backbone. But there is polish here too. Deep and rich underneath. Very dry finish. Very firm – just extra depth but no extra obvious sweetness/ripeness until the very end when there is quite a bit of alcohol. Obvious top growth address even in this wine.

Ch La Mission Haut-Brion 2009 Pessac-Léognan 18 Drink 2020-2040
50% of the crop went into this. The alcohol level was 14.2% in 2005 with lots of plump Merlot boosting it but in 2009 the blend is 47% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and the alcohol level is a record 14.7%. Dark crimson. Scented, pretty, rather haunting aroma. Very rich and caressing – lovely texture. Still very firm and dry. The house signature of those warm bricks even in the super-ripe, super-imposing vintage of 2009! Lovely glow, and quite a bit alcohol on the end, but definitely no sweetness. SO different from the norm on the right bank... Almost inky finish. Seems very Cabernet to me. Fades just a little fast. 14.7%

Ch Pape Clément 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17 Drink 2017-2030
Pretty dark crimson. Hint of toastiness. Bone dry. Succulent. Real clarity and purity. Everything in the right place – dry but not drying finish. Wonderful balance. A real contrast to the white...! (Both tasted blind.)

Dom de la Passion Haut-Brion 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17 Drink 2017-2029
Dark crimson. A little bit of oak and lots of sweetness. Very thick and sweet – not nearly as fresh and transparent as Haut-Brion itself but pretty impressive and thick and taking things to the limit. Hot finish. Just a bit cocoa syrup-like but very impressive.

Ch Seguin 2009 Pessac-Léognan 16.5 Drink 2015-2024
Life and vivacity and succulence here. This speaks to me – quite an achievement since it's the penultimate wine tasted in a very long morning. Well done! Great succulence and freshness but no austerity.

Ch Smith Haut Lafitte 2009 Pessac-Léognan 16+ Drink 2016-2026
Moderate and rather cool and intriguing on the nose. Some sweetness at first and then slightly inky. The tannins are far from the most supple but they just about do the trick without being too drying on the finish. Just a little bit gawky, and there's some alcohol on the finish.

Mèdoc and Haut-Mèdoc
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Ch Beaumont 2009 Haut-Médoc 16.5 Drink 2015-2024
Dark crimson. Bright fruit. Very sweet palate entry – all pleasure in a very luscious way. Could be VGV. Hedonistic but may not last all that long?

Ch Belgrave 2009 Haut-Médoc 16 Drink 2015-2023
Very dark purple. Attractive freshness on the nose. Very lively and very polished. What's not to like if you're looking for a relatively easily maturing good value claret?

Ch Belle Vue 2009 Haut-Médoc 16.5 Drink 2016-2022
Dark purple. Intense and tarry on the nose. Lots of juice with minerality on the finish. Nice combo! Real vitality.

Ch Bernadotte 2009 Haut-Médoc 16 Drink 2014-2019
From the Pichon Lalande stable. Extremely dark crimson. Just a hint of farmyard on the nose. Very sweet start and really quite round and fleshy. An early maturer but one that should bring a lot of pleasure. Pretty alcoholic on the finish though. Not for purists but could be very useful for restaurants and airlines.

Ch Charmail 2009 Haut-Médoc 16.5+ Drink 2016-2024
Blackish. Very heady and rich and charming on the nose. Super-ripe. Sweet start and nice completeness. Good refreshing savoury finish. Neat and well done.

Ch Coufran 2009 Haut-Médoc 16.5 Drink 2016-2024
Particularly dark crimson. Warm and lively on the nose. Very sweet, polished start. Quite nicely done and a very rewarding lunchtime wine but this doesn't belong with the big guns.

Goulée 2009 Médoc 16.5 Drink 2013-2016
14.5% alcohol (which is volunteered on the smart accompanying information sheet!). 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot. IPT (total polyphenol index) 91, TA 3.2 g/l (sulphuric, ie 4.9 g/l tartaric), pH 3.7 'Textbook vintage for the Médoc appellation', according to JG Prats.
Very dark crimson. Super-sweet nose but without as much tarriness as in some previous vintages. Very much better managed tannins and an attractive kick of spice. Pretty impressive – like so many AC Médoc wines. Just a little teensy bit of dryness on the finish but very flattering. Real frfeshness here. The best Goulée ever compensates a little for a rather disappointing Cos. 14.5%

Ch Greysac 2009 Médoc 16.5 Drink 2018-2030
Pretty dark crimson. Savoury nose with real depths and interest and refreshment. Fresh and quite delicate. Notably less sweet than most of the other wines in this blind tasting of 'southern Médocs'. Seems to have judged the vintage well, although the tannins are a little dry. Neat finish. The best Greysac I can remember tasting. Should be GV.

Ch Malescasse 2009 Haut-Médoc 16.5 Drink 2016-2026
Very lively and flirtatious on the nose. Attractive Margaux-like perfume and sweetness. Very sweet. But not too oaky and extracted so it manages, just, to present itself as an alluring drink. Neat.

Ch Potensac 2009 Médoc 17 Drink 2018-2030
Very deep crimson. Minerals and great ripeness. But very much restrained by a corset of structure. Great lift and pzazz. Not at all a country wine, not too chewy. But very serious. This has a really long term future.

Ch Sociando Mallet 2009 Haut-Médoc 16.5 Drink 2017-2030
Deep purple. Scented and very well integrated but not as intensely sweet as most St-Estèphes. Hint of yeast extract. Very interesting! Lots of vitality. Lightly drying on the finish but with real character and restraint – just the merest hint of whisky barrels.

Ch La Tour Carnet 2009 Haut-Médoc 16.5+ Drink 2017-2028
Very dark. Very subtle and complex on the nose. Round and easy and pretty relaxed. Seems rather effortless. Lots of pleasure and nice ripeness rather than simple sweetness. Good!

Ch La Tour de By 2009 Médoc 17 Drink 2015-2025
Very dark purple. Super-fragrant, scented wine with medium weight. Glossy nose with no hint of excess sweetness or alcohol. Sweet palate entry and then very well managed tannins and the exotic black fruits richness of 2009 insinuates itself even on this bastion of Médoc restraint!. A bit of a kick on the end but not jagged or drying. Good harmony. Good mouthful of intense fruit. Needs a little time for the tannins to melt. Cooler and drier than most. Fresh finish. Could be GV.

Moulis and Listrac
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Ch Chasse-Spleen 2009 Moulis 16.5 Drink 2016-2026
Light, delicate Margaux-like scent. Fragrant and easy. A little malted milk tablet on the finish. Nice, gentle, lots of pleasure even if little drama. Just slight astringency on the finish.

Ch Fonréaud 2009 Listrac 17 Drink 2016-2025
Especially dark crimson. Dark chocolate notes. Very sweet and Napa Valley-like. Very sweet, well-managed tannins. Super-ripe and nice freshness, too. No pain at all to drink! Though it might be a little tricky for blind tasters. Very well made. Nice length.

Ch Fourcas Hosten 2009 Listrac 17 Drink 2016-2030
Dark crimson. Low-key but quite intriguing nose. Full and firm and dramatic. Really nicely balanced. Polished tannins. Appetising. Seems like the sort of wine that should be a pleasure to drink all its life. The best Fourcas Hosten I can remember tasting. Is this down to the new owners or the vintage?

Bordeaux Blanc
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Ch Margaux, Pavillon Blanc 2009 Bordeaux 17 Drink 2014-2022
Spicy, slightly stinky, catty nose. Rather more lift than in some recent vintages. Lanolin and richness but lots of lemon and grapefruit too. They are picking a bit earlier and not including the very ripest grapes. Because the alcohols were getting just a bit too high – sometimes over 15%. This was scary. Started reacting in 08 but Nature helped. Much reduced crop – see the video. Mierals and tension quite different from the old fat style, Very interesting, Should age longer. Perhaps less distinctive – more like a particularly refined Pessac-Léognan?

Ch Monbousquet 2009 Bordeaux 16.5 Drink 2014-2018
Stinky paint-like aroma, round texture and quite rich. Not stupendous though fuller and fatter than most dry white bordeaux. Lots of weight.

Ch Mouton Rothschild, Aile d'Argent 2009 Bordeaux 16 Drink 2012-2015
Spicy, stinky nose. Racy and a bit sweet. A superior bordeaux blanc but not nearly as subtle as Pavillon Blanc.

Ch Valandraud, Blanc de Valandraud No 1 2009 Bordeaux 16 Drink 2011-2015
70% Sémillon, 30% Sauvignon Blanc from a vineyard in St-Émilion on clay. Light lemon colour. Very rich and stinky like so many dry white bordeaux this year. Rich and sweet and flattering. Reverberant, exciting and ambitious.

Pessac Léognan and Graves (Blanc)
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Ch Bouscaut 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17 Drink 2012-2017
Not clarified. A little reductive and almost Riesling-like. I could easily take this for a Wachau wine...! And I like it. Spicy, quite full bodied with an interesting aroma. Could this all be down to yeast...?

Ch Brown 2009 Pessac-Léognan 16 Drink 2011-2015
Very fat and rich. Flattering and apparently with lots of Sémillon weight. Sweet start but lots of structure and density. Great cheese wine!

Ch Carbonnieux 2009 Pessac-Léognan 16+ Drink 2013-2018
Waxy nose. Then quite green and austere on the palate. Definitely disjointed! Pretty chewy finish. But nice texture - very pure.

Dom de Chevalier 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17.5 Drink 2013-2020
Some nerve as well as some fat on the nose here. Firm and mineral on the finish. Real structure to this bone dry wine. Not unlike de Fieuzal but a bit richer. I feel confident that more interest will develop.

Clos Floridène 2009 Graves 16.5 Drink 2012-2016
Very precise, well sculpted, mineral and exciting.

Ch de Fieuzal 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17+ Drink 2016-2026
Lemony, rather suppressed nose. Chalky, mineral finish. This is a slow burner. Bone dry and not at all flashy. Very promising indeed.

Ch Haut-Bergey 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17 Drink 2012-2018
Bright gold. Interesting sulphidey twist on the usual Pessac-Léognan recipe. Very fresh and zesty. Good balance and probably quite a long life. One definitely for the table. Attractive dryness on the finish.

Ch Haut-Brion, La Clarté de Haut-Brion 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17 Drink 2012-2018
This is the blend of offcuts from the white grands vins from both La Mission and Haut-Brion that was once known as Les Plantiers. It contains lots of Sémillon because they decided to put lots of Sauvignon Blanc into Haut-Brion Blanc. Very rich and lanolin-like on the nose. Lots of sweetness and pleasure for quite early drinking. Lovely stuff! But too rich to drink without food, I should think. Spicy, almost fat. But just kept in check. Just fades a little on the finish. 13.6%

Ch Haut-Brion 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17 Drink 2015-2019
62% Sauvignon Blanc, 38% Sémillon - an unusually high proportion of Sauvignon and I can understand why, so fat is the wine. Yet it smells fatter and less Sauvignon than La Mission Blanc - as so often. Very round and rich - you have to seek the acidity. Very forward and plump.. Good citrus tingle. Long but a little hot on the end. The strongest ever Haut Brion Blanc. 14.2%

Ch Larrivet Haut-Brion 2009 Pessac-Léognan 16 Drink 2011-2014
Smoky nose with a hint of charred oak? Sweet start - a bit too sweet to be appetising, with a rich smokiness that slightly recalls Alsace. I'd like a little bit more nerve.

Ch La Mission Haut-Brion 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17.5 Drink 2016-2025
Very stinky Sauvignon-like aromas despite the fact that it's 84% Sémillon. Very perfumed and with lots of gras but strong grapefruit aromas. Then a little sudden on the finish. 13.9%

Ch Olivier 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17 Drink 2015-2022
Not clarified. Smoky/catty nose. Grapefruit flavours and high acid on the finish. Pure minerality on the mid palate with attractive juiciness. Bone dry finish. Very appetising - complete contrast stylistically with Malartic Lagravière, for example.

Ch Pape Clément 2009 Pessac-Léognan 16 Drink 2011-2014
A little bit of (good quality) oak on the nose. Very rich and supple and fat on the palate. Going for mass! A bit of tropical fruit even. So last year, my dear... ! But quite fun to drink actually. Just not that refreshing. Alcoholic and spicy.

Ch Picque Caillou 2009 Pessac-Léognan 16.5 Drink 2011-2016
Odd, sweet, sugary nose. But solid and flatteringly creamy-textured. Crunchy fruit on the finish. Very round and supple. Just off dry.

Ch Smith Haut Lafitte 2009 Pessac-Léognan 17 Drink 2011-2016
Slightly greener tint than most. Rich and quite complex on the nose. Very broad flavours. Hint of pineapple. Lots of satisfaction and lip smacking with a nice undertow of minerality. Lots there. Tastes as though it had almost been stroked by the winemaker. Quite a bit of alcohol though. Pape Clément??

Sweet Whites
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Ch d'Arche 2009 Sauternes 17 Drink 2016-2030
Quite deep gold. Nervy nose with quite a bit of botrytis. Very big and generous and opulent with notes of toast and honey. Very sweet indeed. Perhaps this wonderful impression is simply because this is the first Sauternes I have tasted? It does fall of a tiny bit towards the end - not quite as concentrated on the finish. But it's pretty damned impressive! Just that surprisingly fast fade prevents a higher mark, Well mannered. Hint of pepper.

Ch Caillou 2009 Sauternes 16.5+ Drink 2018-2030
Paler and less limpid than most. Lightly floral on the nose. Then pretty weighty on the palate - a bit of a sleeping giant perhaps? Very big and quite sweet but still relatively featureless.

Ch Climens 2009 Barsac 18.5+ Drink 2020-2045
As usual, there was no final blend of Climens to taste, but a succession of barrel samples representing each picking, rather fewer than usual in 2009 since the vintage was so successful. The first lot, picked on 28 Sep, was incredibly rich and pure and full-bodied. And then the 3 Oct lot was, amazingly, even richer and heavier. Apparently 90% of the crop was picked between 2 and 9 Oct in unusually warm conditions. Two lots picked on 5 Oct showed that the afternoon lot was nervier than the morning lot. Unlike in 2005, for example, the last lots, such as the one picked on 8 Oct, were less rather than more concentrated, and delightfully racy. Great blend of richness, raciness and life. This should be very special indeed and I may be under-scoring it. 14%

Clos Haut-Peyraguey 2009 Sauternes 17.5 Drink 2018-2030
Not much definition on the nose though a hint of botrytis. Very rich and with a definite structure. Hot end. Sort of medium quality but not the most expressive.

Ch Coutet 2009 Barsac 16 Drink 2016-2023
Rather simple, floral, barley-sugar aromas. Sweet? Certainly. Interesting? A bit more debatable. Hot finish.

Ch Doisy-Daëne 2009 Sauternes 18 Drink 2018-2035
Streak of green to the pale gold. Rich, lip-smacking and satisfying on the nose. Very big and bold, like pear juice fermented by a wizard. Lovely stuff. Lots of bracing structure as well as all the richness. Very long.

Ch Doisy-Védrines 2009 Sauternes 15.5 Drink 2015-2025
Pale straw. Rather simple sweet aromas. And a bit of alcohol on the finish. Pear drops rather than pear juice - not a good trade. Definitely one of the less complex 2009 sweet white Bordeaux. Fades a bit fast.

Ch de Fargues 2009 Sauternes 17.5 Drink 2019-2035
Big and dense and gold. Sweet and coconut and sweet-shop nose. Big and rich and a little bit hot. Impressive rather than expressive. Very massive structure with a hint of oak. May well come round to something even more complex.

Ch Filhot 2009 Sauternes 16.5 Drink 2016-2030
A slightly green streak in the gold. Nice tingle. Sweet, somehow 'liquid gold' nose. Very big and bold. But without much definition and finesse at the moment. Still, it should please people, and may not need that long to do so. Molten. Just a bit of jagged acidity at the moment.

Ch Guiraud 2009 Sauternes 18 Drink 2018-2035
Interesting nose with a bit of an edge - really appetising as well as very sweet. I failed to spit this one - always a good sign. Very long and a good combination of structure, acidity and very ripe fruit. Tightly laced even if not the sweetest. Interesting smokiness on the nose.

Ch Lafaurie Peyraguey 2009 Sauternes 17+ Drink 2018-2030
Quite deep gold. Looks very fat. Not very much nose, and sheer weight is its strong point. A bit chewy. This should give pleasure but it's not one of the most subtle. Raw pear juice. Bit of a boxer. Though with good acidity.

Ch Lamothe 2009 Sauternes 17.5 Drink 2020-2035
Coppery gold. Low-key nose. Very big and muscular. A bit of astringency at the moment. Chewy and alcoholic and awfully young and brash but it should get there in the end. One of the chewier Sauternes 2009s. But it also has enormous weight and sweetness.

Ch Lamothe Guignard 2009 Sauternes 17 Drink 2017-2030
Not much nose. Then great weight and sweetness but a bit formless. It has less freshness than many. Just big and beefy. Very round and a bit hot.

Ch de Malle 2009 Sauternes 17.5 Drink 2020-2035
Deep gold. Sweet, candied violets on the nose. Fresh and precise on the front palate. Masses of weight and sweetness. Still a baby but it promises well. A rather burnt element to it, in an interesting way. Savoury, dry finish. Serious stuff that should repay a considerable wait. Long.

Ch de Myrat 2009 Sauternes 17.5 Drink 2018-2030
Mid straw. Rich and concentrated even if totally unformed. Very flattering in terms of weight. Though this lacks grace. Just BIG! And still quite chewy on the end. Even a hint of green on the finish.

Ch Nairac 2009 Barsac 18 Drink 2020-2040
Heady, concentrated pear juice on the nose. Then lift and excitement. A little bit of fungus but a very impressive wine. Just a bit of heat on the end. Very luscious. Very opulent but with quite enough freshness to keep it in check.

Ch Raymond Lafon 2009 Sauternes 19 Drink 2017-2032
Very deep golden, with great tension and excitement and some green streaks, with layers of botrytis over them. Full and deep with intense botrytis. Great stuff! Unspittable, dried apricots (though so much richer than a Tokaji) and great acidity.

Ch Rieussec 2009 Sauternes 18 Drink 2018-2036
Heavy and rich and wonderfully sumptuous. Great richness. Density and breadth. Still very chewy but there is lots here. Very rewarding.

Ch Romer du Hayot 2009 Sauternes 17 Drink 2018-2035
Creamy, powdery nose. Quite tight and focused. Very sweet and not necessarily very complex. But lots of energy and reductive focus here. Long and a rather burnt note on the end.

Ch Sigalas Rabaud 2009 Sauternes 17.5 Drink 2015-2030
Green hint in the gold. Round, fat and inexpressive. Very forward and evolved. Truly sticky and lovely. Thick. Some chew and acidity too.

Ch Suduiraut 2009 Sauternes 18.5 Drink 2016-2040
Big and rich and bold and overwhelming almost. A bit of spice and so much sugar! This deserves very high points for its combination of sweetness and purity. Great weight. Really very good indeed. Bravo AXA for allowing these decisions.

Ch La Tour Blanche 2009 Sauternes 18 Drink 2018-2040
Tang and interest on the nose. Big, weighty. But with good acidity and definition and it's awfully difficult to spit! Long and rich, a bit hot on the end? Still a bit chewy.

Ch d'Yquem 2009 Sauternes 19+ Drink 2016-2046
Lively greenish gold. Very indulgent nose that sends a tingle down the spine. Great tang and life as well as richness. So pure and flirtatious – not one of the sweetest but beautiful balance and refreshment, without being an 'aperitif style Sauternes'. Quite exceptionally persistent. Hints of blossom and real lift. Orange peel and real zest – great energy. Not heavy at all, This takes 2009 Sauternes to a new level. Extremely bright fruit. Long and rich. Not a fat style of Yquem.

Saint Emilion
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Ch Angélus 2009 St-Émilion 18- Drink 2016-2030
Very dark crimson. Rather animal on the nose. Thick and sweet but with generosity. Broad and jewelly. Shame we were not allowed to taste it blind with the other grands crus classées. Awfully sweet and concentrated, not relaxed, lots of dryness on the finish, revitalising. Hint of cocoa.

Ch Ausone, Chapelle d'Ausone 2009 St-Émilion 16.5 Drink 2016-2026
70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc. What didn't go into Ausone. Bright crimson. Very sumptuous and ripe. Super-sweet. Very jazzy and intense. A little bit dry on the end. Very electric in its concentration. Quite luscious in a raw berry sort of way.

Ch Ausone 2009 St-Émilion 17.5+ Drink 2020-2035
Full and gamey and broad and expressive. Very distinctive wine. Still a bit tough and modern and super-focused. Very drying on the end. Quite demanding for now. Drying on the finish. Really quite painful – as though it had been concentrated, or certainly as though the grapes suffered quite a bit of drought stress. Lots of minerality on the finish. Very ambitious. Shades of Pavie 2003? I'm sure many palates will really, really appreciate this wine, and I look forward very much to following its progression as I have the utmost respect for Alain and now Pauline Vauthier interviewed here about the effect of the hail damage her family's vineyards suffered in May. I see the fiche technique specifies a yield of 27hl/ha and 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot but no picking date and I seem to have forgotten to ask.

Ch Bellefont-Belcier 2009 St-Émilion 17+ Drink 2017-2030
Very dark. Quite a complex bouquet. Mouthfilling and intriguing. Very much a 2009 but with real added interest. Already impressive persistence. Really very nice balance.

Ch Canon 2009 St-Émilion 17.5 Drink 2017-2030
A little paler than some. Lightish cherry red. Glossy, gamey, almost animal nose. Rich and sweet but with a certain dryness on the finish. There is some real life here. Very glamorous. Sumptuous and flattering, very polished, racy and sinewy and like a racehorse. Good enterprising energetic stuff!

Ch Canon La Gaffelière 2009 St-Émilion 17 Drink 2015-2025
Blackish crimson. Fragrant, even lightly soapy. Well integrated and relaxed. Fine boned. More acdity on the finish than one might expect so not super-stunning but pretty good. Some might find this eviscerated. I think it's quite elegant.

Ch Cap de Mourlin 2009 St-Émilion 17- Drink 2017-2030
Very dark crimson. Interesting tea-leaf nose. Fresh and fragrant. Gentle rather than very extreme texture – though there is marked alcohol on the finish. Aromatically interesting though it is pretty chewy on the end. A little aggressive, especially the tannins.

Ch Cheval Blanc, Le Petit Cheval 2009 St-Émilion 16.5 Drink 2015-2025
65% Cabernet Franc, 35% Merlot. Mild, low-key, soft nose. A little inky and awkward at the moment. Chewy finish not integrated with the fruit. A bit of alcohol on the end. This does rather taste like offcuts (15% only, apparently) rather than a wine in its own right. Awkward acidity on the end too. 14.3%

Ch Cheval Blanc 2009 St-Émilion 18.5 Drink 2019-2034
60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc. 85% of the total went into the grand vin – they were so pleased, especially with the Merlot. Very rich and comfortable on the nose. Very juicy. Dry finish. Very serious wine. Lots of layers and a dry finish. Pretty long – opens out on the finish. But it's not a knocker-off-of-socks and has rather more classic Cheval character than some recent vintages. It's really quite subtle – but then there's no over-the-top ripeness, which is a relief. Rather contained and pretty. The challenge on the right bank after all was to keep it all in check... (compared with the left bank, which could wallow more in the extra ripeness). Certainly not that sweet... Almost like a child told to concentrate and do its piano practice. 13.9%

Clos Fourtet 2009 St-Émilion 17.5 Drink 2015-2030
Very dark purple. Meaty, interesting nose with hints of treacle and liquorice. Thick and sweet at the start and then some real texture kicks in but it doesn't seem overdone – just ambitious. The alcohol is, just, kept in check. If purple had a taste, this would be it. Quite racy and sinewy. Though you need to wait quite a while for this one... Sweet and juicy and round. Lots of body and fat here. Long. Pretty impressive. Very suave. Lots of glamour.

Clos de l'Oratoire 2009 St-Émilion 17 Drink 2014-2027
Very sweet and rich and opulent and fresh and lively. Slithery texture.

Ch Dassault 2009 St-Émilion 17+ Drink 2015-2030
Cheesy, gamey nose. Very thick and dense. All stops pulled out here! The organ is playing at max volume!! This is 2009 squared. Very snazzy and opulent and aiming to satisfy the hedonist's every wish. Long and rich but with a really refreshing acid level. Long.

Ch La Dominique 2009 St-Émilion 17.5 Drink 2017-2030
Even darker crimson than most. Interesting, quite subtle nose. Then great sweetness on the palate and considerable dryness on the finish. A quite extreme wine that is absolutely on the edge for me as to whether it will all settle down or not. I hereby give it the benefit of the doubt as obviously the makers have taken real risks on ripeness. Some mineral savour. Muscular chewiness. Pretty glamorous and certainly extreme.

Ch Faugères 2009 St-Émilion 16.5+ Drink 2017-2025
Dark crimson – very dark! The aromas struggle to leave this elixir. A hint of oxidation (presumably just a less than fresh sample so nothing to worry about). Very rich and sumptuous and taken-to-the-limit. But not excessively sweet, nor (just) too alcoholic. I think this is a wine over which an immense amount of care has been taken. Very dramatic. Not for traditionalists but certainly attention-grabbing.

Ch Faugères, Cuvée Peby 2009 St-Émilion 16.5+ Drink 2016-2024
Yeast extract on the nose – very dark colour. Verge of oxidised (a sample problem?). Very sweet start – this wine seizes what 2009 has to offer and runs with it. Tarry finish. Very concentrated.

Ch Figeac 2009 St-Émilion 17+ Drink 2017-2032
Paler than most. Luscious, opulent nose – very come-hither. Cool and fresh. Complete. Still a bit simple but there are no excesses here. Just slightly timid on the palate. Real juice though – not exaggerated. Sweet and juicy and friendly even if not the most dramatic. Dry end. Will get there. As discreet and distinctive as usual.

Ch La Fleur 2009 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2016-2024
Very fragrant and well integrated nose. Sweet yet fresh. A zappy modern take on St-Émilion. Though there is still quite a bit of oak to integrate.

Ch Larcis-Ducasse 2009 St-Émilion 17 Drink 2016-2026
Some development at the rim. Rich and super-ripe black fruits. Sweet and rather fruit-juice like. Polished and made with great elan. Super smooth. I think people would like this. The tannins have been well managed. It's just a little too sweet for my personal taste.

Ch Louis 2009 St-Émilion 17 Drink 2015-2027
Polished and easy and sleek and really very nice indeed. No drying finish. Or not much. Great weight and race.

Ch Lucia 2009 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2015-2025
Meaty and rich and racy. Much better balance than most. Fine and racy and much nervier than most though a bit tarry on the end.

Ch Moulin St-Georges 2009 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2018-2028
Bright crimson. Flattering and rich and very very sweet. Taken to the limit of ripeness? Rather hard work on the finish. Not genetle, that's for sure! Really tough and drying on the end.

Ch Pavie 2009 St-Émilion 18 Drink 2018-2032
Blackish crimson. Minerals and lively and FRESH!! Juicy and gouleyant and eye-catching but with sufficient juice and not too dry on the end. Really tastes as though it comes from an interesting slope. Sun dried but not to excess. (This note was written when I tasted it blind while the other, made later that same day, was written at the property tasting sighted.)

Ch Pavie Decesse 2009 St-Émilion 16.5 Drink 2016-2032
Very dark crimson. Warm, rich nose with some minerality and interest. Thick and sweet and porty. Then very dry and drying. Tarry. A bit like a syrup. To be impressed by rather than to drink with pleasure? Very dry end.

Ch Pavie Macquin 2009 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2015-2025
Deep, bright crimson. Very ripe, alcoholic notes on the nose. Very sweet black cherry flavours – kirsch actually – on the palate. Super-modern elixir. Not my favourite style of wine but some will love it and it's well done. Not too painful on the finish – just a little drying. Round and juicy and very suave with carefully chosen dry oak. Sinewy and drying. Very cool.

Ch Sansonnet 2009 St-Émilion 17 Drink 2016-2027
Very dark crimson. Heady. Very dramatic and manages to be both super-ripe and refreshing – quite an achievement. Some very expensive oak is also evident here. Attractive savour to this – not just ripeness. An extreme wine.

Ch Tertre Roteboeuf 2009 St-Émilion 17.5 Drink 2015-2039
Rich and burgundian nose. Still quite rich and sweet and generous and very different from most bordeaux 09s. Flattering and floral and fine. So sweet, but lively texture and not dry on the end. Very distinctive. 15.6%

Ch La Tour du Pin 2009 St-Émilion 16.5 Drink 2015-2025
This wine from the Cheval Blanc team gets better every year. 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. Very dark crimson. Definitively juicy nose. Very racy and polished. Nice savoury note. A little bit of modern glamour. Chewy end. Altogether pretty confident. Beefy. Bravo! 13.7%

Ch Troplong Mondot 2009 St-Émilion 16.5 Drink 2016-2026
Very dark blackish purple. Toasty oak on the nose. Too facile? Some savour on the mid palate. Easy and not exaggerated. A middle-of-the-road choice. Really lines the glass! Toasty oak nose. Really rigid on the palate – so drying! Purple fruit flavours. Exorbitant. Then a very fast fade. Super-flashy rather than really satisfying.

Ch Trottevieille 2009 St-Émilion 16.5 Drink 2016-2026
Thick and sleek. Mild and dry and cocoa-like. Dry on the finish and lots of alcohol. A bit austere on the end.

Ch Valandraud 2009 St-Émilion 17.5 Drink 2016-2029
Very deep crimson. Rich and round and a little tarry on the nose. Very sweet and round and flashy. Dramatic and alive with lots of electricity in the wine. Dry on the finish but not excessively so. Dances a bit and is very lively as well as managing to be quite supple. Just 10% Cabernet Franc, pH 3.5, 14% apparently.

Ch Valandraud, Virginie de Valandraud 2009 St-Émilion 17 Drink 2016-2026
Very dark. Very sweet and rich. Sumptuous. 30% Cabernet Franc, pH 3.65. Very rich and luscious. Bit dry on the finish.

Pomerol
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Ch Le Bon Pasteur 2009 Pomerol 17 Drink 2015-2028
Inexpressive nose. Lots of juice and sweetness. Fragrant and very Pomerol. Neat.

Ch Bourgneuf-Vayron 2009 Pomerol 17 Drink 2018-2030
Meaty and ripe on the nose with some interesting grace notes and real refreshment. Cool, sophisticated on the palate, not at all the plump version of Pomerol, this one is playing it cool and waiting in the wings. Very long term wine that could be really interesting eventually.

Ch Certan de May 2009 Pomerol 17.5 Drink 2017-2030
Dark purplish crimson. Heady, sweet, intense nose. Polished and very savoury. Well mannered. Rather old style but with the extra ripeness of the vintage. Chewy end. A bit austere at the moment but there is integrity underneath. Very interesting on the finish. It grows towards the end.

Ch Clinet 2009 Pomerol 17 Drink 2017-2029
Thick and sweet and almost a cliché of Pomerol with its great meay richness and savour. Should calm down and become something quite exciting eventually, but quite tough on the end.

Clos L'Église 2009 Pomerol 16.5 Drink 2016-2028
Slightly tired sample but there is real interest here. Broad and layered. A little pruney but not excessively dry on the finish.

Ch La Conseillante, Duo de Conseillante 2009 Pomerol 17- Drink 2015-2024
Really very deep crimson. A lot of press wine in here? The nose is a little nervy and fragile but the palate is very lip smackingly ripe and satisfying with more than a hint of yeast extract. Just a bit tarry on the finish but clearly there is HUGE ambition even in this second wine. Just so much ripeness and gentle texture. This could be VGV. Though I fear little quantity has been made. More freshness than in Blason de l'Évangile. Just a little neutral on the finish.

Ch La Conseillante 2009 Pomerol 16 Drink 2015-2023
Picked 19-28 Sep. Very dark. Though no darker than the Duo. Not much nose – less expressive than the Duo! Very rich and intense. Super-ripe. Taken to an extreme of ripeness? A bit overripe. Lacks acidity. I think I prefer the Duo. Heavy with a bit of tarriness on the finish. I'd love to taste this again but on this showing I fear there is not enough acid and too obvious tannin. When I subsequently tasted this blind, I wrote ' Sweet and almost Argentine on the nose! None of Bordeaux's subtlety here. I can't really see the point. And awfully drying on the finish.'

Dom de l'Église 2009 Pomerol 16 Drink 2015-2020
Dark purplish crimson. Heady. Surprisingly 'cool' on the palate – as though some of the explosive fruit had been sucked out. Fades a bit fast. Just too well mannered?

Ch L'Église-Clinet, La Petite Église 2009 Pomerol 16 Drink 2015-2023
Very smart and flattering and subtle. Very lively. 100% Merlot. Quite sleek and even a bit skinny. Fresh but far from sumptuous. Dances.

Ch L'Église-Clinet 2009 Pomerol 17.5+ Drink 2018-2030
Scented nose. Very rich and thick and polished. Fresh and expressive – lots of nervy fruit. Very lively and exciting and nervy – not unlike its maker. Still very tight though.

Ch L'Évangile, Blason de l'Évangile 2009 Pomerol 16.5+ Drink 2016-2026
Different because lots (24%) of Cabernet Franc – young vines. The first year of their new Cab Franc – a very fresh wine. They are still discussing whether to sell it en primeur. Just 1,000 cases. He thinks it's the best Blason ever and finds it quite close to L'Évangile. Rest of what they made was sold off in bulk. Actually I find it pretty damn ripe and opulent on the nose. Then on the palate – still very rich and ripe and dramatic. Very luscious. Lots of flesh but some fresh acidity on the finish. Just a bit blurred. But very fresh. pH 3.73

14%

Ch L'Évangile 2009 Pomerol 18 Drink 2018-2035
39 hl/ha. 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Just a bit deeper than the Blason. Silky and subtle on the nose. Great richness and intensity. Firm line through it. Really up there. Great structure. Very firm and dry on the finish but not drying, Much more than just ripeness. Great density. Exotic and racy. Very long.

Ch La Fleur de Gay 2009 Pomerol 17 Drink 2017-2030
Sumptuous colour and nose and not too sweet – quite intriguing and sophisticated. Juicy and polished. Like super-ripe fruits gently squeezed into juice. Dry but not drying finish.

Ch La Fleur-Pétrus 2009 Pomerol 17+ Drink 2017-2032
Bright, deep crimson. Polished, scented, quite concentrated. Just a little inky. Lots of substance and classic interest. Real density. Chewy finish. Solid quality that recalls older vintages.

Ch Le Gay 2009 Pomerol 17+ Drink 2013-2018
Dark crimson. Very gamey and ambitious with amazingly soft tannins. This one virtually crawls towards the consumer asking them to love it. Interesting chalky finish. Some freshness. Pretty damned good! But for early consumption.

Ch Gazin 2009 Pomerol 16 Drink 2017-2027
Luscious and intense with the merest hint of animal fur. Thick and then rather tough and acid. Rather austere on the end.

Ch La Grave 2009 Pomerol 16.5 Drink 2015-2030
(Ex Trigant de Boisset.) Transparent crimson. Gamey/veggy notes. Sweet start and some delicacy – very different from most Pomerols! Really quite racy and sinewy. Dry finish. Very very much a food wine!

Ch Guillot Clauzel 2009 Pomerol 17 Drink 2016-2024
Initially quite fresh and then notes of ripeness right up to the limit but – just – not over the limit. Appetising dry finish. Some real nerve and minerality here. Really interesting and, most unusually for 2009, there is a lovely length to this wine. When I turned the bottle I saw that this is the wine from Dominique Thienpont of Le Pin and VCC family fame. Really pretty nice and complex. This is a property quite close to Le Pin and here's what I wrote about it when I last tasted it during the 2006 primeurs: Gravel over clay which is higher than at Le Pin so less water stress here than at Le Pin, according to Dominique Thienpont, who sells this wine (the property is looked after by François Despagne).

Ch Hosanna 2009 Pomerol 17 Drink 2016-2028
Dumb nose without super freshness. Very ripe indeed. Lots of freshness on the palate. Though this is the Moueix wine that pushes most to the limit of ripeness. For modernists. Rather a leathery texture on the finish.

Ch Lafleur, Pensées de Lafleur 2009 Pomerol 17.5 Drink 2015-2025
Deep crimson, 50/50 Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Very heady and rich and aroma of foxgloves. Lively and fresh and zesty. Much more aérien than most right-bank 2009s! Polished and racy. Animal and lively. Graceful but a bit dry on the end but seriously good wine. 'More serious than usual', says the son. Certainly very structured.

Ch Lafleur 2009 Pomerol 18.5 Drink 2018-2040
47% Merlot, 53% Cabernet Franc. Dark and luscious. Gamey and animal on the nose. Sweet start. Super-luscious. Really polished and fragrant and gorgeous. Such succulence. Top notes. Really rich but light! Aérien! Just so racy and fine. Great structure under racy fruit. Just doesn't seem as though it's trying at all! Lip-smacking, So neat! Real zest and elegance. The Cabernet Franc here was obviously a wonderful addition.

Ch Lafleur Gazin 2009 Pomerol 16.5 Drink 2015-2030
Deep crimson. Very warm, rich and welcoming. Very plump and even quite spicy. Then it becomes much drier on the palate. Rather a restrained, even inky, Pomerol, as though it had been corseted.

Ch Latour à Pomerol 2009 Pomerol 17.5 Drink 2016-2032
Very deep crimson. Rather sumptuous, even ethereal nose. Now we're getting somewhere with this Moueix range...! Very luscious and complete with real density and substance – and not just sweet and alcoholic. A really good wine. Interest and depths with great but not excessive ripeness and lots of fine tannins.

Ch Nénin, Fugue de Nénin 2009 Pomerol 17 Drink 2015-2023
Very deep crimson. Very rich, voluptuous nose. Nice freshness and precision on the palate. Very luscious. A lot more successful than many grown-up Pomerol grands vins. Really zesty and plush and lovely. GV

Ch Nénin 2009 Pomerol 17.5+ Drink 2017-2030
Very dark crimson. Much more restrained than La Fugue. Quite a farmyardy nose and then very rich and poished and dense. Lots of tannin obvious here – a much more long-term proposition than La Fugue. Serious stuff...

Ch Petit Village 2009 Pomerol 16.5 Drink 2015-2027
Full, fragrant, floral nose. Thick and sweet. A little overbearing. Hard finish – very muscular. Not too alcoholic.

Ch Pétrus 2009 Pomerol 19 Drink 2015-2035
Started picking 18/9 Sep but waited for rains. Mostly picked 1 Oct. Atypical phenological cycle. More like hot places. Acid higher than for most hot years. Very dark crimson. Very subtle and exciting on the nose. Really rich and round and vibrant. Very sweet and exciting. So luscious. Great richness, A certain gentleness of texture. Exciting. Very well mastered - no excess. Very rich too. The tannins very well hidden. 14%

Ch Le Pin 2009 Pomerol 18 Drink 2015-2030
Picked 22 and 25 Sep just after the rain (deluge 19 and 20 Sep) so 'more water in the wine'. Nice fragrance. Deckchair vintage. Lively and fresh and not obviously rich Merlot. Rain revived the vines. Very suave and lush. Very refreshing, rather feminine. Plush and flattering and really quite delicate. Polished and not at all heavy. This could be a standout Le Pin, I think.

Ch La Pointe 2009 Pomerol 17.5 Drink 2016-2029
Very rich and dense and well integrated on the nose. Thick and sweet yet with sap underneath. Really impressive wine. Caresses the palate. Hint of dark chocolate.

Ch Providence 2009 Pomerol 17- Drink 2016-2030
Dark crimson. Another wine, like Hosanna, where the ripeness is extreme. Very sweet start. Big and inky and muscular. Pretty rude tannins on the finish. A bit of a big blusterer. A bit ungainly. Good for those who seek mass? A little bit of alcohol on the end. But solid true wine – not confected.

Ch Trotanoy 2009 Pomerol 18 Drink 2018-2032
Very dark. Juicy, savoury, complete on the nose. Very ripe with some liquorice and treacle toffee. Extremely opulent and reverberant. Lots of black notes on the palate. Exotic and with savoury dry finish. Really interesting wine. Dense and almost tarry but without the drying tannins on the finish sometimes associated with that character. Well done! Very long and satisfying. But dramatic. No prisoners' style of wine.

Ch Rouget 2009 Pomerol 17 Drink 2015-2028
Very thick. Perfumed. Very sweet and opulent and ambitious. A bit of tannin on the end. You could almost stand a spoon up in this. Clinet? Very rich. Pretty alcoholic finish but there is lots of rich fruit, too.

Vieux Château Certan 2009 Pomerol 18 Drink 2016-2030
84% Merlot (mainly the 1942 plantings), 8% Cabernet Franc, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon. Same blend as in 1998, oddly – which was their reference point for Merlot. pH 3.8, 40+ hl/ha compared with the very small vintages of 2008 and 2006. 'Now that we have a better cellar, we can take more risks. In old days we couldn't have taken 09's risks.' Unusually low proportion of Cabernet Franc; these particular old vines just did not deliver in 2009. Very dark – much darker than Le Pin. Very luscious – more like the nose you would expect of Le Pin! Very big and rich and full. Round and chewy and very very ripe but not heavy nor very hot. Splendid nose with great richness and savour but not excessive sweetness. Gouleyant. 13.7%

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