Z&B's 2009 Bordeaux En-Primeur Barrel Critique

I spent last week immersed in the 2009 Bordeaux barrel samples and I suppose the burning questions, which I required answering were "Is the 2009 the greatest vintage on record?" or "was the early and much talked about excitement more to do with the Bordeaux PR machine working overtime?"

For me "greatness" comes from consistency, encompassing both the Left and Right-Banks and all the appellations' within the same. Of course one accepts that some Châteaux just fall below the radar of "greatness" however, these should be the minority with the majority showing their immense brilliance.

So, 350+ samples later, I am now equipped to answer the burning question for myself. "Do I truly believe that the 2009 Bordeaux is the greatest vintage?" Presently, I must say no however, I would like to reserve the right to reconsider my position when the 2009's are bottled. Until then, the 2000 vintage stands in the coveted number one spot. That being said, there are some truly incomparable wines, which I have never experienced in all of my fifteen years. I was overwhelmed with their balance, freshness, polished but mighty powerful tannins that were perfectly masked by luscious, ripe, sweet fruit.

It would be remiss of me not explain why I think the 2009 Bordeaux vintage has fallen just short of "greatness". In part I found the right-bank disappointing – I found overextraction being their main flaw and the Pomerol's lacked freshness. I do wonder if some right-bank Châteaux fell victim to all the very-early (pre-harvest) Bordeaux hype and consequently felt compelled to produce a fruit-laden wine? Sadly, leaving their grapes too long on the vine has back-fired for some, as their wines lacked the all important freshness and balance to support the fruit. . . Some were more akin to Californian fruit-bombs and bear hardly any resemblance to a young Bordeaux.

A quick word on both the dry and sweet whites before heading back to the reds: These were an absolute pleasure to taste – Super ripe fruit (as one would expect) and lovely weight however, I feel that some lacked sufficient acidity, which may cause a problem with the wines overall balance in a few years. I personally prefer the 2001's followed by the 2007's, with the 2009's coming in third.

On to my very-favourite wines (More tasting notes/views will be added as each wine is released during the campaign). . .

Château Ausone (55% Cabernet Franc 45% Merlot)
I kid you not – This is the most extraordinary young Bordeaux I have ever had the privilege of tasting and was the wine of the vintage for me. The perfume was/is beyond belief. Every facet of my palate was coated with sweet fruit. It's a huge wine but superbly polished and the finish? Well, I still tasted the wine as I arrived at Cheval Blanc! Simply, perfect in every sense.

Chapelle d'Ausone (2nd wine of Château Ausone 70% Merlot 30% Cabernet Franc)
Beautiful, sweet perfume. Dense, sweet fruit on the palate all perfectly balanced with ripe tannins and freshness. Utterly beautiful and a must buy.
NB: I must say that all of the wines under Ausone/Alain Vauthier's stable are superb. Châteaux Moulin Saint-Georges, Simard, Haut Simard and de Fonbel should be considered – They're all outstanding wines, which will not break the bank!

Château Cheval Blanc (58% Cabernet Franc 42% Merlot)
Another stunning success in Saint-Emilion. Black fruit, spice, chocolate on the nose. Dense, ripe fruit and perfectly polished – Nothing awkward or out of sync whatsoever. Hugely recommended as is Cheval Blanc's 2nd wine, Petit Cheval Blanc and La Tour du Pin, a Grand Cru Classé Saint-Emilion, which Cheval Blanc purchased in 2006.

Château Mouton Rothschild (88% Cabernet Sauvignon 12% Merlot)
Stunning, and my favourite first-growth. In fact, my number one wine until I fell in love with Château Ausone. The nose reminded me of bakewell tart – Super-sweet attack on the palate, polished tannins and a finish that lasted and lasted. Flawless in every aspect and a perfect wine for me!
NB: Mouton's 2nd wine, Le Petit Mouton was absolutely fabulous too – I adored everything about this wine. Worthy mentions must go to Châteaux d'Armailhac and Clerc Milon too.

Château Latour (91.3% Cabernet Sauvignon 8.7% Merlot)
It was a very tough call between Latour and Mouton. Latour was as spectacular but perhaps lacked the flamboyance of Mouton. On the other hand, Latour was more focused and showed its magnificence better. I think Latour will win in the end. . .
NB: Latour's 2nd wine, Forts de Latour showed extremely well too and comes highly recommended. I also really enjoyed their 'Pauillac' which predominantly ends up in the Bordeaux restaurants. . .

Château Haut Brion (46% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc)
Superb in every sense and I was astonished with Haut Brion's elegance particularly when one considers the whopping alcohol level of 14.3%. The tannins are evident, lots of rich, super-ripe fruit and beautifully balanced.

Château La Mission Haut Brion (47% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc)
One would expect a wine at 14.7% alcohol perhaps a little 'hot' or 'new-world' however, their 2009 couldn't be further from this assumption. La Mission Haut Brion was/is breathtaking and showing a touch more power/denseness than Haut Brion. Extremely enjoyable and will be profound in years to come.
NB: Haut Brion's newly named 2nd wine, Le Clarence de Haut Brion, La Chapelle de La Mission Haut Brion (2nd wine of La Mission Haut Brion) are both super-enjoyable and worthy (and more affordable) purchases.

Château Lafite Rothschild (82.5 Cabernet Sauvignon 17% Merlot 0.5% Petit Verdot)
I thoroughly enjoyed Lafite's 2009 although, it wasn't one of my favourite first-growths… I loved Lafite's focus and refinement, which in respect brings something additional to the table. It's a terribly grown-up wine – muted and obviously in control of itself. Extremely complex and I can't wait to taste this in a few years.
NB: Lafite's 2nd wine, Carruades de Lafite was showing extremely well (it's never one of my favourites) and Château Duhart Milon was extremely well made – Polished and showing some of the reserved style evident in Lafite – Very nice indeed!

Château Pontet Canet
I have been a long admirer of Pontet Canet and we unexpectedly received a special sample bottle, which was a lovely touch from the Château. I loved the intense richness and the wines focus – It's neither overripe nor over worked. The ripe tannins are huge and will undoubtedly take a good few years to unfold. My best Pontet Canet to date and a must buy.

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
An utter delight to taste – Full-bodied, lovely ripe fruit and nicely polished tannins. A real joy and I can't wait to see how this wine evolves.

Château Pichon Baron
Tasted twice. Huge, very dense and a bit of a shock (at first) to the palate! Some may consider it impenetrable given its enormity although, it's very fresh and beautifully polished – Something very special for the future.

Chateau La Conseillante
What a spectacular nose – The perfume literally leaps from the glass. Rich, full-bodied and supple, ripe tannins. Utter class!

Z&B's Dream Cellar (If money was no object)Z&B's Dream Cellar (If the wife finds out about the prices!)
Château AusoneChâteau Pontet Canet
Château Mouton RothschildVieux Château Certan
Château LatourChateau Leoville Barton
Château Lafite RothschildChâteau Leoville Poyferre
Château La Mission Haut BrionChâteau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
Château Haut BrionChâteau Pichon Baron
Château Cheval BlancLe Petit Mouton
Château L'Eglise ClinetChâteau Moulin Saint-Georges
Château La ConseillantePetit Cheval Blanc
Château LafleurChâteau Malescot-St-Exupery
Château TrotanoyChâteau Figeac
Château Montrose
Château Pavie Macquin
Château Pavie Decesse
Château Grand Puy Lacoste
Le Clarence de Haut Brion
La Chapelle de La Mission Haut Brion
Château Calon Segur
Chateau Leoville Las Cases
Château d'Issan