Archive Releases

Robert Parker Scores 2008

If you would like to view individual appellations please select one of the headings below.

'Top' Red Bordeaux › Dry White Bordeaux

'Top' Red Bordeaux

Lafite Rothschild 98-100
The 2008 Lafite Rothschild is one of the most profound young wines I have ever tasted. From a taster's perspective, it is reminiscent of a blend of the 1996 and 2003, but when you compare those vintages analytically, that makes no sense whatsoever. Representing only 40% of the production, this blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc boasts an opaque ruby/purple color (one of the darkest Lafites I have seen in 30 years) as well as an extraordinary, blockbuster aromatic profile of lead pencil shavings, forest floor, black fruits, licorice, and a hint of unsmoked, high-class cigar tobacco. In the mouth, a massive richness is accompanied by a freshness, delineation, nuance, delicacy, and mind-boggling density. Even after three decades of tasting, I am still astonished when tasting such a prodigious wine as this. Full, inky, and rich with creme de cassis and spice box characteristics as well as a length that I stopped measuring after a minute, the wine reveals a sweetness to the tannin and an opulence to the fruit that suggests a hot, sunny vintage, but again, that was not the case. There wasn't a great deal of heat, but there was more sunshine than the negative press reported at the beginning of September. This is a great, great wine. The harvest at Lafite took place between October 1-7 for the Merlot grapes, the Cabernet Franc was picked in mid-October, and the Cabernet Sauvignon between October 7-14 - an unbelievably late harvest for this estate. This wine should evolve for 30-40 years and last 50 or more. As I have indicated before, Lafite's second wine is now one of Bordeaux's finest second wines, and is made very much in the Lafite style.

Petrus 98-100
The 2008 is destined to be one of the greatest Petrus's ever made, ranking alongside the 1989, 1990, 1998, and 2000, and even eclipsing the 2005. An inky/red/purple color accompanies an unevolved, but promising nose of sweet red and black fruits intermixed with hints of earth, spice box, and caramel. It possesses a formidable personality of great intensity, awesome texture, amazingly well-integrated sweet tannin, and a freshness and precision that are hallmarks of this vintage. Given the tiny production, there will not be much of this sensational wine. Like most recent Petrus vintages, a decade of patience will be required despite the sweetness of the tannin. It should evolve for at least 50 years.

Trotanoy 96-100
The greatest Trotanoy since 1998, 1982 and 1961? I always thought the 1998 was the modern day reference for this estate after 1982, but the amazing 2008 appears to be even denser and richer with higher, yet even sweeter tannin. It should prove to be a monumental wine as well as a legend in the making. Its inky/ruby/purple color is followed by a sensational bouquet of liquid earth intermixed with exceptional quantities of red and black fruits as well as hint of ink. Very dense, full-bodied, muscular, and massive, but in spite of some impressive grip and tannin, everything is gorgeously integrated because of the extraordinarily long maceration period of the grapes on the vine. Full-bodied and phenomenally concentrated with a prodigious sweetness and layered mouthfeel, this is unquestionably one of the vintage's superstars. It should evolve for three decades or more. Kudos to Christian Moueix and his new oenologist, Eric Murisasco.

Ausone 96-100
The 2008 Ausone tasted much more forward and softer than most Ausones do at this stage, which is remarkable considering the extremely late harvest and slow, late malolactics. Nevertheless, it is a packed and stacked St.-Emilion displaying an inky/blue/purple color, unreal fruit density, and that liquid mineral component that comes from this steep, limestone vineyard. The wine possesses dense fruit, full-bodied power, remarkably sweet tannins, and more elevated acidity than in such years as 2000, 2001, 2003, 2005, and 2006. The acidity seems low because of the wealth and density of the fruit. Everything is incredibly pure, and the cascade of blue and black fruits interwoven with notions of crushed rocks, flowers, and forest floor is as provocative as it is grand. I can conceive of drinking this Ausone with some degree of complexity in less than ten years, which may be considered sacre bleu by the proprietor since many of his wines will last 50-100 years where well-stored. Yields were a ridiculously low 20 hectoliters per hectare, and the grapes were harvested in mid to late October.

Pavie 96-98+
Is the 2008 Pavie superior to the 2005 and 2000? While that is impossible to know at this stage of its development, it will certainly be one of the three greatest Pavies made under the administration of Chantal and Gerard Perse. Cropped at a very low 30 hectoliters per hectare, the final blend is a classic Pavie combination of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The 14.5% natural alcohol is the highest ever achieved at this estate. The inky/blue/purple color is followed by a wine with a concentrated, full-bodied texture, a layered mouthfeel, fresh acids, abundant tannin, and a 50-60-year evolution ahead of it. Compared to the enormous, but backward 2005, the 2008 seems even less evolved at a similar stage. Sweet creme de cassis, black cherry, licorice, and smoky barbecue characteristics combine with a liqueur of minerality that resonates from this terroir that is considered to be among the top dozen or so vineyard sites in Bordeaux. This remarkable offering, from a person who has, thankfully, ignored the petty jealousy and unfair criticism of his administration, is another St.-Emilion for your children's children. For the fact-mongers, this cuvee was hand-harvested between October 13-21, with the grapes put in small plastic containers. Everything is moved by gravity flow, and there is no fining or filtration following a slightly longer than normal aging (28-30 months) in oak casks.

Pontet Canet 96-98+
A wine for our children's children. Nobody in Bordeaux is more attentive to detail than Alfred Tesseron is at Pontet-Canet. Fashioned from incredibly low yields, a very late harvest, and a Draconian selection, the 2008 will not be close to drinkability for at least a decade, and it should still be in superb form circa 2060. An absolutely amazing effort, it boasts an inky/black/purple color as well as an extraordinary bouquet of creme de cassis, graphite, charcoal, and incense, blockbuster depth, and full-bodied power. The tannins are high, but they are remarkably velvety as well as well-integrated. Sensational acidity gives the wine precision and vibrancy, but the impression is one of massive concentration and power. The 2008 Pontet-Canet, a candidate for the wine of the vintage, is a tour de force in viticultural precision and winemaking savoir faire.

Bellevue Mondotte 96-98+
Good luck trying to find any of this wine, even with the worldwide economic crisis. From low yields of 20 hectoliters per hectare, this blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the limestone plateau of the so-called Cote Pavie emerges from a 5-acre vineyard planted with 46-year-old vines. As usual, the Perse viticulture is impeccable, with crop-thinning, de-leafing, and hand rather than machine harvesting. This vineyard was harvested on October 20th, and the result is a compelling wine of great depth, richness, and aging potential. The dense purple color is accompanied by an extraordinary nose of charcoal, spring flowers, black raspberries, and creme de cassis. As my tasting notes read, this is "amazing stuff," with incredibly sweet tannins as well as the vintage's freshness and crispness, which makes it very different from recent vintages such as 2006, 2005, 2001, and 2000. This wine should be forgotten for a decade, and drunk over the following 30+ years.

La Violette 96-98

Hosanna 96-98

Latour 96-98
Damn me for saying it, but I actually think the 2008 Latour will turn out to be even better than the 2005 or 2000. I still have a weakness for the 2003, but it is somewhat atypical in how forward, fleshy, and opulent it is. The 2008 Latour is a more concentrated version of the 1996, and that's saying something. The harvest took place between September 29 and October 7 for the Merlot, but the Cabernet Sauvignon finished around the 19th of October. The natural alcohol of 13.48% may be the highest ever achieved at Latour. The final blend is 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Moreover, in a low yield year, only 40% of the production made it into the grand vin, so even with the global economic crisis, this is going to be a tightly allocated wine – with under 10,000 cases produced. A fabulous infant, it exhibits an inky/purple color as well as extraordinarily pure notes of creme de cassis, crushed rocks, and flowers. The fact that there is no hint of oak is a testament to the vintage's density and richness. The wine possesses full-bodied power as well as a boatload of tannin, and it is even more backward than Lafite Rothschild. Nevertheless, the hallmark of a great wine and potentially top-notch vintage is the sweetness of the tannin, and that is evident. The wine is young, unevolved, and incredibly pure (another hallmark of this unexpectedly magical vintage) with an amazingly long, textured, layered finish. It should be forgotten for 5-8 years, and consumed over the following four decades.

Ducru Beaucaillou 96-98
In Bruno Borie's words, the 2008 Ducru Beaucaillou is "well above 2004, with much more structure than 2007, and more sensuality than 2006." I would add that it is even better than that, and as profound as the 2005. Approximately 33% of the crop made it into Ducru, which came in at 13.1% natural alcohol. This 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot blend reveals a dense opaque purple color as well as a gorgeously sweet bouquet of spring flowers, creme de cassis, blackberry liqueur, licorice, espresso roast, and spice. A testament to the density and richness of this wine is the fact that no oak is apparent in the aromas or flavors. The wine is unctuously textured, but analytically, it has a good level of total acid and sound pH. This fabulous offering will age effortlessly for 30-40+ years.

Le Gay 95-98

Cheval Blanc 95-97
In time, the profound 2008 Cheval Blanc will rank alongside this estate's great successes of 2005, 2000, and 1998. A harvest that began at the end of September and concluded October 19 has produced a wine with the 1998's complexity and the power of the 2000. A blend of equal parts Cabernet Franc and Merlot, the dense ruby/purple-tinged 2008 reveals an ethereal nose of subtle menthol intertwined with spring flowers, plums, black currants, and sweet cherries. The wine's seamlessness is enthralling, and, despite the late harvest as well as late malolactics, it is already displaying admirable complexity. This is a beautifully complete, full-bodied Cheval Blanc that dances across the palate with the finesse of a world-class ballerina. Analytically, there is plenty of tannin, but it is totally integrated. While the acids are slightly elevated, they are not noticeable. A tour de force! This wine should evolve for three decades or more.

Le Dome 95-97

Larcis-Ducasse 95-97
For decades to come, the 2008 Larcis Ducasse will undoubtedly be compared with this estate's immortal 2005. I did not expect such a blockbuster effort from this St.-Emilion property, but low yields of 25 hectoliters per hectare and a harvest that lasted from October 9th to October 20th produced a wine with the highest alcohol level, 14.2%, ever achieved. Consultants Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt seemed to have coaxed just about everything one could from this extraordinary terroir. The final blend of 78% Merlot and 22% Cabernet Franc has resulted in an opaque purple-colored wine exhibiting a sweet, almost intoxicating perfume of blue, red, and black fruits intermixed with notions of spring flowers, forest floor, and damp earth. Full-bodied and opulent with an outrageously pure, textured mouthfeel, sweet tannin, and slightly more acidity than the monster 2005, this is a tour de force as well as one of the most compelling wines of the vintage. Given the global economic crisis, I suspect the price should be one-third to one-half of the 2005. In short, that means readers should buy, buy, buy. The 2008 should be approachable after bottling (because of the sweetness of the tannins as well as the extraordinary ripe fruit), and evolve for 20-30 years.

Leoville Las Cases 95-97
Readers should not be surprised that the 2008 Leoville Las Cases is a great classic as the selection process here is as Draconian as at any of the first-growths. Slightly more than one-third of the production made it into the grand vin, a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Merlot. Yields were just under 38 hectoliters per hectare, and the natural alcohol of 13.4% is among the highest ever measured at this estate. The harvest was very late, between October 6-18, and the result is a wine boasting extraordinarily sweet tannin as well as abundant black cherry and cassis notes intermixed with a prominent underlying minerality. Despite the massive density, concentration, and length, the wine is extremely precise, nuanced, and impeccably pure. This phenomenal effort should be more drinkable in its youth than many other vintages of Las Cases because of the ripe tannins and sweet fruit density. It will need 5-10 years of cellaring, and should last for 40+ years.

Château Margaux 95-97
This is a superb vintage for Chateau Margaux, and while it may be too early to say this, the 2008 appears superior to the 2007, 2006, 2004, 2003, 2002, and 2001. Only 36% of the crop was utilized and the yields were 40 hectoliters per hectare. An exceptionally late harvest for this estate began on October 3 for the Merlot, and finished on October 23. The final blend includes a whoppingly high 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and dollops of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. As always, the first characteristic one notices is the extraordinary floral component as well as the sweet black currant fruit allied to full-bodied richness, sweet tannin, and superb freshness and delineation. In many ways, the 2008 is reminiscent of the 1996, but the former wine is showing even more density and concentration than the 1996 did at the same point in its evolution. The 2008, which appears set for 30-40 years of longevity, is a remarkable effort from this great estate

Haut Bailly 95-97
The 2008 exhibits superb minerality as well as the delicacy of a great culinary preparation, packed and stacked with flavor, yet light on its feet. The 2008 will compete, perhaps eclipse the sensational 2005 and 2006. A dense ruby/purple color is followed by notes of charcoal, graphite, black currants, sweet cherries, spice box, and subtle earth. The wine possesses super purity, a medium to full-bodied, gorgeous texture, ripe, sweet tannins, and a layered mouthfeel. The acidity provides freshness, vibrancy, and delineation to all the component parts of this very concentrated yet quintessentially elegant wine. It is a sensational effort that should begin showing secondary nuances of complexity in 8-10 years, and evolve for three decades or more.

Haut Brion 95-97
Production for the 2008 Haut-Brion represents only 35% of the grapes harvested, and while production can be over 12,000 cases in an abundant vintage, 2008 will be one of their smallest ever, with only 7,000 cases produced from a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Franc. The 2008 reminds me of a hypothetical blend of the 1996 and 1998. It is a classic, elegant, but substantial Haut-Brion with a dense ruby/purple color as well as crushed rock, spring flower, blueberry, and black currant characteristics presented in a vivid, vibrant, full-bodied style that cuts an ethereal feel across the palate. Haut-Brion is somewhat akin to Cheval Blanc in that it can be seemingly light on the palate, but very intense in flavor. That is the case with the 2008. There is plenty of tannin, but it is very ripe. This impressive, deep wine requires patience, and a ten year wait is mandatory. This formidable Haut-Brion should have a 40-50 year lifeline

Troplong-Mondot 95-97
What a worthy rival to the prodigious 2005! This is another superb success from proprietress Christine Valette, but it is distressing to hear that this property may be up for sale. The inky/blue/purple-colored, formidably concentrated 2008 exhibits aromas of smoke, blueberry and blackberry liqueur, roasted coffee, and spice box. Boasting fabulous fruit and purity, a multilayered texture, full body, and prominent, but sweet, well-integrated tannin, this is a tour de force in winemaking from an outstanding and a perfectionist proprietor. Give it 5-6 years of bottle age, and drink it over the following three decades.

Montrose 95-97
An undeniably great Montrose, after some time in wood, the 2008 should achieve the heights of the 2003, 1990, and 1989. Stylistically different from those wines, the 2008 harvest took place between September 29 and October 15, and yields were a modest 44 hectoliters per hectare. This superb terroir west of the Gironde River possesses a remarkable amount of gravel in the soil base. Sixty percent of the production made it into the 2008 Montrose, and the person responsible for so many great Haut-Brions, Jean-Bernard Delmas, came out of retirement to take charge over the last several vintages for proprietor Martin Bouygues. An inky/purple color is accompanied by sweet, pure aromas of black fruits and spice. This full-bodied wine exhibits superb concentration, sweet tannin, and a multilayered, textured, full-bodied mouthfeel with no hard edges. The sweetness of the tannin, the extraordinary purity of fruit, and the intense aromatics suggest a year of great ripeness. The difference between the 2008 and the 2003, 1990, or 1989 is the freshness and purity of expression. This should be a long-lived wine (35+ years), yet it will drink surprisingly well at a young age. For some reason, it comes across like an even more pure example of the 1989, even though there is nothing essentially comparable between the two harvests.

Palmer 95-97
The 2008 Palmer, which tips the scales at 13.5% natural alcohol (among the highest achieved at this property), is a blend of 51% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 8% Petit Verdot. It is a massively rich wine with an inky/purple color, sensational density of fruit, velvety tannins, a glorious bouquet of black fruits, licorice, incense, and subtle barbecue smoke, a superb, full-bodied mouthfeel, and a fabulous texture and length. With several minutes of swirling, an enticing floral note emerges. The wine's glycerin and sweetness suggest it will be approachable 3-4 years after bottling, yet keep for three decades or more. It appears to be among the finest Palmers made this decade, rivaling both the 2005 and 2000.

Gracia 94-97

Clinet 94-97
This is the greatest Clinet since the incredible duo made by the late Jean-Michel Arcaute in 1989 and 1990. The dense purple-colored 2008 offers up beautiful floral, blackberry, and pen ink-like notes, exceptional intensity, that multilayered texture that seems to be commonplace in the top 2008 Pomerols, silky but elevated tannins, good freshness, precision, and nuance, a substantial size, and an extremely long finish with not a hard edge to be found. It should evolve for 30+ years.

Branon 94-97
This sensational effort displays massive concentration, extraordinary intensity, and soaring aromatics of roasted coffee, barbecued meats, graphite, blackberries, and cassis, dense fruit, full body, excellent purity, nuance, and unlimited potential complexity as well as longevity. This limited production cuvee, a blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, ranks alongside Branon's sensational 2000. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2025.

Cos d'Estournel 94-96+
The 2008 Cos d'Estournel possesses an atypically high (85%) amount of Cabernet Sauvignon, with 13% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. The first vintage vinified in the new facility, an unusually high percentage of the crop (78%) was included in the grand vin. The bad news is that yields were a minuscule 25 hectoliters per hectare. This wine achieved 13.8% natural alcohol, and the number of days between the flowering and harvest was 160, compared to the normal 100-110 (one of the keys to understanding the exceptionally high quality that characterizes the 2008 Bordeaux). There were no serious heat waves during the growing season, which meant that the maturation process was slow, long, and ideal. Combine that with the very low yields, and the superb weather from mid-September to late-October, and the often splendid results are much easier to comprehend. The inky/purple-hued 2008 Cos is still very young, and probably will improve even further as the wine came out of malolactic fermentation very late. It reveals exceptionally precise, fresh aromas of black fruits, crushed rocks, licorice, flowers, and subtle smoke. Dense and high in tannin, the extraordinary richness of polyphenols has given the wine power, substance, and depth, but the sweetness of the tannin and the seemingly low acidity, even though the wine tastes remarkably fresh and the pH is only 3.57 (compared to pH's close to 4 when the fruit is this ripe), has given the wine a precision and elegance that is remarkable. And don't forget, this is probably the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon ever used in a Cos d'Estournel blend. This wine should gain weight, richness, and a few Parker points by the time it is bottled. It is even denser and richer than the 1996, with an index of polyphenols at 80, which is not unusual for many of the top wines of the vintage, but is extremely high, and more along the lines of what one would find in the top wines of 2005. It should evolve for 30-35 years

La Mission Haut Brion 94-96+
Another property that is harvested very late (September 23-October 17), the 2008 La Mission-Haut-Brion is a powerful, backward effort that is not yet fully expressing itself. A blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc, it reveals a deep blue/purple hue in addition to sumptuous aromas of melted asphalt, graphite, blueberries, and black currant liqueur. Dense, with high but velvety tannins, top-flight purity, and a full-bodied, backward, formidably endowed style, this beauty seems to be set for a long life. It is difficult to compare 2008 with any other recent vintage, but the closest would probably be 1998. A La Mission made for four decades or more of cellaring, it is a top-notch effort that should improve during the elevage in barrel.

Lafleur 94-96+
The 2008 Lafleur, a blend of 54% Cabernet Franc and 46% Merlot, offers extraordinarily pure notes of raspberries, kirsch, flowers, and subtle forest floor nuances. A wine of exceptional purity and full-bodied intensity that remains light on its feet because of its fresh acids and lower pH, it represents a denser, more complete version of the 1988 and 1996. Built for the long haul, purchasers will need at least a decade of patience before pulling a cork. It should keep for 40-50 years thereafter.

L'Eglise Clinet 94-96+
So many great wines have emerged from this property administered with meticulous care and obvious passion by proprietor Denis Durantou that it hard to say the 2008 is better than some of the previous wines produced over the last decade. It is more backward and less evolved than some of the other Pomerols in this vintage, but the wine boasts an inky/ruby/purple color as well as an exceptionally pure bouquet of creme de cassis, black raspberry liqueur, charcoal, and a hint of black truffles. Dense and pure with massive concentration yet undeniable elegance and precision (because of the fresh acids), this full-bodied effort, despite the high level of Merlot in the blend, requires 7-10 years of patience. It should evolve for 30-40 years after bottling, and will be fascinating to compare with some of the legends produced here over the last ten years.

Pape Clement 94-96
Not far off the quality of the monumental 2005, Pape Clement's 2008 was cropped at a lowly 30 hectoliters per hectare. The final blend is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot, and there are approximately 7,500 cases. The 2008 displays a dense purple color as well as a classic northern Pessac-Leognan nose of truffles, asphalt, scorched earth, charcoal, creme de cassis, spice box, and spring flowers. Super-pure and medium to full-bodied with stunning concentration, admirable purity, slightly more acidity than usual, and formidable depth and length, given the sweetness of the tannins and the ripeness of the fruit, this wine should be approachable in 4-5 years, but the vintage's crisp style suggests it will last for 25-30 or more years.

Pichon Lalande 94-96
The 2008 Pichon Lalande's final blend was 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Only 38% of the crop made it into the grand vin, and the result is a wine that blows away the 2005. Terrific texture and opulence, forward fruit, sweet tannin, and a lush personality are found in this dense purple-colored 2008 along with copious quantities of sweet berries, roasted coffee, underbrush, black currant, and black cherry fruit. Sensationally pure, textured, and full-bodied, this will be a flamboyant, showy offering in its youth, but it is capable of lasting 20-30 years.

Mouton Rothschild 94-96
Mouton's vineyard was harvested between October 2-15, and the wine possesses an unexpectedly high pH of 3.85 (high for this vintage, but normal for a riper year). Made from low yields of 34 hectoliters per hectare, it achieved a natural alcohol content of 13.2%, one of the highest ever for this estate. Made from 54% of the production, the 2008 Mouton Rothchild's final blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Merlot has resulted in an atypically sweeter, more direct and opulent, fleshy Mouton. Keep in mind that this cuvee, because of the high Cabernet Sauvignon content as well as the terroir, is often backward, structured, and nearly foreboding in its youth. However, I do not think the 2008 will behave in that manner. There is plenty of tannin and exceptional density and ripeness, but the tannins are velvety, and I was amazed by how charmingly forward and fleshy this wine already is. A deep purple color, sweet aromas of creme de cassis, smoke, cedar, and an unmistakable floral component (another characteristic of the Cabernet Sauvignon in 2008) are found in this precocious, succulent Mouton that should firm up and put on more weight with aging. My score is somewhat conservative because it is hard to forget their prodigious 2006, but the 2008 will provide far more enjoyment and pleasure over the near-term than the 2006. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035.

Pavie-Decesse 94-96
Like all the Perse wines, the 2008 Pavie Decesse is a backward, unevolved effort that just recently finished malolactic fermentation. An amazing effort (90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc) that was cropped at 30 hectoliters per hectare, it emerges from an 8+ acre vineyard planted in pure limestone whose vines average 47 years (relatively old by Bordeaux standards). The 2008 is another huge, massive, full-bodied St.-Emilion that is even more concentrated than the 2005 or 2000. Sweet notes of blackberries, kirsch, licorice, and crushed rocks are accompanied by an awesomely concentrated, pure, unevolved wine that appears set for 30-40 years of cellaring. It is best purchased by those who are willing to wait at least 10-15 years. This is another brilliant offering from Gerard and Chantal Perse. Are they obsessed? Yes. Are they perfectionists? Yes. As consumers, are we the beneficiaries? Yes

Le Pin 94-96
This wine had finished malolactic fermentation, but it was still very primary and largely unevolved. There will be approximately 525 cases of this 100% Merlot in 2008. A dense purple color is followed by notes of cassis, kirsch, plums, and hints of underbrush as well as roasted coffee beans. The wine possesses superb concentration, beautiful freshness, and an opulent, dense style with exceptionally sweet tannin. It will be an outrageously good Pomerol to consume over the next 25 years.

Gazin 94-96
The 2008 is a marvelous effort from this property situated adjacent to Petrus and only a stone's throw from l'Evangile. An amazing effort, the wine exhibits an inky/ruby/purple color, wonderful concentration, a beautifully sweet perfume of caramels, mocha, jammy black currants, and smoky blackberries, a full-bodied mouthfeel, a layered, skyscraper-like texture, and sweet but elevated tannins. Overall, it displays gorgeous freshness and delineation. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2025.

Close de Sarpe 93-96+
A massive, concentrated claret that behaves like something from the 19th century, the 2008 Clos de Sarpe, made under the supervision of Michel Rolland's top lieutenant, Jean-Philippe Fort, was cropped at a nearly commercial insanity level of 12 hectoliters per hectare. The natural alcohol of 15% must eclipse even the ripest vintages of the past. As I have said before, this is an uncompromising, massive wine made for those with longevity genes, or for stashing away for our children's children. About 500 cases are produced of this 85% Merlot / 15% Cabernet Franc blend. Almost painfully concentrated, with an opaque purple color as well as an extraordinary nose of incense, spring flowers, black fruits, graphite, and new oak, this wine displays a full-bodied, multilayered mouthfeel, high but sweet tannin, and a remarkably long finish that lasts over a minute. Despite the late harvest and late malolactic, the 2008 is more accessible, with sweeter tannin than the 2005 was at a similar age. Purchasers will require extraordinary patience, but what a wine! It is one of the most remarkable offerings from what is one of the four finest vintages for St.-Emilion in the last two decades.

Bon Pasteur 93-96
Michel Rolland and his wife, Dany, decided to take only the finest parcels of their vineyard to make Bon Pasteur, thus cutting production dramatically. From this exceptional vintage in Pomerol (with its low yields), the result appears to be the finest Bon Pasteur since the 1982. Fermented completely in small barrels, a painstakingly laborious task, the use of indigenous yeasts, and a prolonged maceration of 40-60 days has resulted in a wine possessing extraordinarily dense fruit, an inky/ruby/purple color, sweet tannin, and sumptuous aromatic and flavor profiles. Probably the most complete and potentially complex and concentrated Bon Pasteur ever made, it offers sweet berry, mocha, caramel, and flowery characteristics, gentle but substantial tannins, and sensational concentration. There is no hint of aggressiveness. Over-maturity of the grapes was impossible to achieve in this vintage, and the 2008 represents the maximum expression I suspect this estate is capable of achieving. Bravo! It should drink well young, but last for three decades. (The 1982 is still in beautiful condition at age 27.)

Duhart-Milon-Rothschild 93-95
As I have previously written, Duhart Milon has become one of the stars of Pauillac thanks to the meticulous attention to detail as well as the investments made by the Rothschild family. A blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot, with the Cabernet picked during the week of October 8-15, and the Merlot a week earlier, the 2008 offers up sweet aromas of cassis, licorice, crushed rocks, and forest floor in an expressive, graceful aromatic display. Freshness, superb concentration, high but ripe, sweet tannins, and good acids characterize this dense, concentrated wine. It possesses a stunning upside potential of 25-30 years. Yet, like so many of these 2008s, the ripeness of the tannins along with the density and sweetness of the fruit suggest it will be approachable at an early age.

L'Evangile 93-95
It was an atypically late harvest at this famed Pomerol estate, beginning on September 29 and ending on October 14. Even more remarkable were the frighteningly low yields of 20 hectoliters per hectare. The final blend was 88% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc, and the natural alcohol hit 13.7%, among the highest of the last one-hundred years. The acidity is surprisingly good given the ripeness of the fruit and the generally high alcohols in the 2008 Bordeaux. The dense purple-colored 2008 l'Evangile exhibits a floral nose of sweet mulberries, black currants, and black cherries, a full-bodied, lush texture, silky tannins, and an exceptionally fine finish. While not that evolved, this precocious Pomerol was tasting unusually well for such a young barrel sample. It should drink well for 15-20 years.

Pavie-Macquin 93-95
tasted this wine on four occasions, on one of which I was convinced it was still going through malolactic fermentation. It is another superb effort from this property that was elevated to premier grand cru classe status until a judge in Libourne, for unknown reasons, threw out the classification, a decision beyond belief, that is now under appeal. A number of exceptional wines have emerged from Pavie Macquin, which is managed by Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt, and the 2008 boasts a whopping 14.5% natural alcohol, higher than in 2005, 2000, or 1998. While extremely high in tannin and very unevolved, for those with patience and cold cellars, or who plan to pass on their wines to their children, this is a worthwhile choice. It is that backward, concentrated, and impressive. It exhibits a black/purple color in addition to stunning notes of graphite, black fruits, underbrush, chocolate, and roasted coffee beans. Full-bodied, powerful, and rich, the high but sweet tannins, combined with the freshness of the acids make for a remarkably youthful, nuanced wine that should easily age for three decades.

Smith Haut Lafitte 93-95
The 2008 Smith-Haut-Lafitte, which is somewhat reminiscent of the brilliant 1998, exhibits sweet cassis, tobacco leaf, earth, and barbecue characteristics in its complex aromatics. The wine reveals ripe, supple tannin, medium to full body, gorgeous fruit, impeccable purity, and a luscious texture. It should be relatively approachable in its youth, and last for 25+ years. The final composition was 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, and 7% Cabernet Franc.

Vieux Château Certan 92-94
The 2008 Vieux Chateau Certan was still going through * malolactics when I tasted it, so my score is probably on the low side. Yields were a strikingly low 34 hectoliters per hectare, and the harvest was slightly earlier than at most properties, starting on September 28 and ending on October 8. The final blend had not yet been determined, but what I tasted was 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. As one might expect, this wine was among the least evolved and judge-able wines I tasted in late March. Nevertheless, it reveals outstanding potential, and once malo is finished, I would expect the wine to put on more weight and flesh. It reveals a dense purple color, plenty of depth, beautiful sweet, pure blue and red fruits, and notes of camphor as well as incense. The wine's striking freshness, length, and overall potential are promising. Production is off by 25% as there will be 3,000 rather than the normal 4,000 cases of the 2008.Given the structure, acids, and overall concentration, this wine should evolve for 25-35 years.

Pichon Baron 92-94
Firm, but sweet tannins (which suggests ideal maturity) characterize this 2008. Displaying good minerality along with plenty of floral, creme de cassis, blackberry, coffee, and white chocolate notes, this full-bodied, dense, promising Pauillac is built to age for 20-25 years.

Leoville Poyferre 92-94
This powerful, dense, full-bodied 2008 is still backward and unevolved, but it possesses a dense purple color as well as sweet aromas of creme de cassis, vanillin, crushed rocks, and flowers. With high but ripe tannin and a long finish, this wine will benefit from 5-8 years of cellaring, and should keep for three decades thereafter.

Leoville Barton 92-94
Another blockbuster, long-term wine from proprietor Anthony Barton, this 2008 is among the biggest, most back-strapping efforts of the vintage. As with many vintages of Leoville Barton, it is best forgotten for another decade. An inky/purple color is followed by notes of forest floor, camphor, red and black fruits, and a hint of wood. This brawny, masculine-styled St.-Julien possesses huge body, massive concentration, and mouth-searing levels of tannin. However, the tannins are much sweeter than the 2005's were at the same stage, so that should not be an issue as long as potential purchasers exercise patience. This impressively pure, classic Bordeaux should be at its finest between 2020-2050.

Grand-Mayne 92-94
A true blockbuster from St.-Emilion, and unquestionably Grand-Mayne's finest effort since their 2005 and 1998, the 2008 boasts an inky/purple color as well as a lovely bouquet of blueberry liqueur, roasted coffee, and a touch of sweet, smoky oak. Full-bodied with exceptional density, super-ripe tannins, an impressive texture, and a 35+ second finish, this cuvee should be drinkable at an early age (2-4 years), and last for 15 or more.

Domaine de Chevalier 92-94
One of the finest wines made at this estate over the last three decades, Domaine de Chevalier's 2008 (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc) achieved 13% natural alcohol. It was cropped at 45 hectoliters per hectare, which is significantly lower than in most top vintages. The most noticeable thing is that consultant Stephane Derenoncourt has drastically cut back the influence of new oak, or at least its ability to intrude on the aromatics and flavors. This beautifully textured, dense purple-colored 2008 exhibits notes of graphite, spring flowers, and blue as well as red fruits in an elegant, full-bodied, flavorful, layered mouthfeel. The freshness of the vintage, combined with low yields has given this cuvee an atypical density and richness that is largely unprecedented. Production is relatively small for the size of the vineyard (about 8,000 cases). This beauty should drink well for 25+ years.

Lynch Bages 91-93+
This strong effort from Lynch Bages may turn out to be the finest wine produced here since the 2000. It is a backward, powerful, opaque purple-colored 2008 with fine acids, firm but sweet tannins, and thick, dense levels of attractive blackberry and cassis fruit intertwined with notions of underbrush, lead pencil shavings, and roasted herbs. It appears to be a denser, richer effort than some of the more lightweight Lynch Bages offerings of recent years. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2030.

Dry White Bordeaux
Back to Top

Compared to 2006 and 2007, the 2008 dry white wines of Bordeaux are inferior, but that does not mean they are not very good. They do not possess the flesh, power, or richness of the 2006 and 2007, but they reveal precise, intensely aromatic personalities, lighter bodies, and more noticeable acidity. These remain among the world's most underrated world-class dry white wines. I will provide full tasting notes once they are in bottle, but following are the dry whites I tasted along with their approximate scores.

Pavillon Blanc du Margaux 90-93

Pape Clement Blanc 91-93

Smith Haut Lafitte 91-93

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 90-92+

Larrivet Haut Brion Blanc 90-92

Back to Top