Archive Releases

Neal Martin Scores 2008

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Pauillac › St Estèphe › Margaux › Saint Julien › Pessac Léognan › Blanc › Rouge › Saint Émilion › Pomerol › Sauternes/Barsac

2008 Château Lafite-Rothschild (95-97)
A blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc, this has a very deep, almost opaque purple colour. The bouquet is quite similar to the Duhart: a little sulky and timid at this stage, although it always takes longer to emerge than other Pauillacs. Blackberry leaf, a touch of tobacco and graphite, almost conservative at the moment. After a couple of minutes, those fruits begin to emerge with blackberry, a touch of scorched leather, Xmas cake and all spice. I think there is a lot of complexity here, but it is buried deep within the wine. The palate is very well structured, firm tannins, good acidity and a wonderful crescendo. It really lacquers the palate – this is much more assertive than the coquettish Château Margaux tasted directly before. Very fresh on the finish, subtle vanillary oak, unfurling with the passing minutes. Anyone not allowing this wine ten minutes to open will have missed the point. Outstanding. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Pichon Baron (94-97)
Just 52% of the total crop in the Grand Vin, which is a blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Merlot from the "historical" part of the vineyard cropped at 35hl/ha. This has a lovely, more restrained nose, blackberry, smoke, touch of cigar box, Very pure. The palate is medium-bodied, very cohesive and lithe, beautiful balance, Very fine tannins, less opulent than usual, conservative but there is a lot of breeding here. Not a powerful Pichon Baron, but there is an ethereal sense of harmony and focus. This is a tour de force Pichon Baron. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Latour (92-95)
A blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot and representing 40% of the production, this Latour has a ripe blackcurrant nose, cedar, crushed stones, just a hint of sous-bois. Full-bodied on the palate, very fine tannins, ripe blackberry, dark plum, a touch of spice, cedar, very "Cabernet". Masculine, but very well poised. Minerally towards the finish. Like the Les Forts de Latour, there is an aloofness about it but it certainly a little sulky on the finish. Hopefully it will gain a greater sense of purpose and ebullience throughout its élevage. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Mouton Rothschild (94-96)
The '08 Mouton is a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Merlot (a substantially higher proportion of the former.) The nose is already quite complex: blackberry, oyster shell, briary, a touch of seaweed. Good definition, quite a mercurial nose, the oak well integrated. The palate is superb: great fruit intensity, this is an ebullient Mouton Rothschild with a real sense of energy and tautness. Superb balance, great poise, blackberry, boysenberry and a wonderful sense of mineralité towards the assertive finish. A certain sense of femininity about this Mouton. Regal! Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Pontet Canet (93-95)
A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot and 30% Merlot. We learnt a lot after 2007. A deep purple colour. The nose has very good intensity, brambly black fruits, a touch of boysenberry, a hint of the Thames estuary, a slight clayey scent although it is more akin to mudflats. Good definition. With aeration it starts to gain cedar scents. The palate is full-bodied with firm, grippy tannins, pure blackberry, cassis, blueberry, this is a Pauillac that really lacquers the mouth. Great persistency on the finish with a touch of black pepper and violets right on the aftertaste. Excellent. Tasted three times, the sample at a negoçiant showing a little more tension and structure. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Pichon-Lalande (93-95)
This has a deep garnet/purple colour. The nose is tightly-wound, ripe blackberry, plum, pencil shavings and a touch of green leaves. Moderate definition. This is quintessential Pichon-Lalande on the nose, lovely silky mouthfeel, very fine tannins, beautifully balanced, certainly not a powerful Pauillac, but very refined and elegant with blueberry, cassis and crushed stones. It just leaves the mouth lacquered in Cabernet. Wonderful – Pichon is on a roll! Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste (92-94)
This has a lovely, far more expressive nose than I expected with black cherries, a touch of iodine and violets (redolent of the superlative 2006) with superb definition. Just a faint hint of oyster shells. The palate is full-bodied, fully ripe tannins, a little more rounded than usual but superb depth, a wine that really caresses the palate. Blackberry, a touch of briary and cedar with a dash of vanillary new oak towards the finish. Superb length. Up there with Pichon Lalande. This is a more feminine GPL compared to other vintages, but one imbued with great breeding. Excellent. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Lynch Bages (91-93)
This has a cohesive nose: blackberry, cedar, just a faint hint of thyme – good definition and focus although not quite the thrilling clarity of Pichon Baron. This is a very "correct" Lynch Bages that reminds more a little of Latour, very pure black fruit, cedar, a touch of briary, a slight tertiary notes towards the finish. Very well balanced and defined, good length, nice persistency. Excellent – unadulterated Cabernet that should drink well over two decades. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Batailley (91-93)
A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot cropped at 46hl/ha, the Batailley '08 has a wonderful cigar box infused nose that soars from the glass: brambly black fruits, a touch of smoke and cedar. Great definition – a sense of exuberance here. The palate is tannic, masculine, cedary with pencil-lead infused black fruits. It is the fineness of the tannins that has changed so much in recent vintages. Quintessential Pauillac. Superb. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Le Petit Mouton (90-92)
A blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Merlot, this, again, is more introverted on the nose, or 'tightly coiled' being a more apt description. Blackberry, woodland, damp moss and a touch of burning embers. The palate is medium-bodied, very fine tannins, real weight coming through in the mouth. Blackberry, cedar, a slight coca-element from the new oak. Very harmonious with greater persistency than the '07. Lovely. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château d'Armailhac (90-92)
This has a deep broody nose with dark fruits, briary, a touch of dark chocolate. Very pure but introverted. Lots of cedar fruit coming through, a touch of autumn leaves. The palate is medium-bodied, fine tannins, ripe black fruits, cedar, touches of dark cherry and boysenberry. Vibrant and fresh towards the finish. Moderate length. This is a great effort – lip-smackingly tasty! Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Clerc-Milon (90-92)
Again, this is very tight on the nose, lots of cedar, graphite aromas, tightly wound and more introverted like the d'Armailhac. Blackberry, smoke and a touch of pencil lead. Thick chewy tannins on the entry, blackberry, briary, cedar and then great persistency on the finish, the back-palate with lovely pure black fruits than linger. Cigar box towards the finish that is cut through with a citrus edge – but it clams up on the finish. Long-term. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Les Forts de Latour (90-92)
A blend of 66.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 31.5% Merlot with 2% Petit Verdot, this is a lovely nose, very refined, pure blackberry, cassis, a touch of cedar/pine forest, superb definition – more feminine than usual. Just a touch of dried orange peel in the background. The palate is medium-bodied, fine tannins, very fresh, very precise rather than a powerful, expansive Les Fort. Like the Grand Vin, it has an aloof finish. Well-crafted, wonderful focus if the depth of a great vintage like '05. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Haut-Batailley (89-91)
This is ripe, wine gum nose of blackberry, a touch of cherry liqueur, a little cedar and roasted walnut. Good definition. Medium-bodied, ripe and rounded tannins, blackberry, a hint of liquorice, lovely texture although perhaps it could do with a little more backbone and tension towards the finish. A decent, earlier drinking Haut-Batailley. Fine, especially the silky, sensuous finish. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Carruades de Lafite (86-88)
A blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc, this has a deep purple colour. The nose is rather tight at first, touches of cassis and blackberry at first, a hint of freshly rolled tobacco with an almost Nebbiolo scent in the background. The palate is medium-bodied, quite tannic, a little grainier than other Pauillacs, just a hint of leafiness inflecting the black, tarry fruit. Quite a "punchy" Carruades, moderate length, though at the same time rather conservative. A little short on the sappy finish. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Aile d'Argent Blanc (87-89)
This has a vibrant nose: grapefruit, a touch of pear skin and lime that reminds me of the Blanc de Lynch Bages. The palate is taut, good acidity, citrusy and lively: much better than the Aile d'Argent of old. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Blanc de Lynch Bages (89-91)
Part micro-fermented in new oak barrels plus 30-35% in stainless steel, this Lynch Bages Blanc uses a new system enabling them to control of fermentation of each separate barrel. A blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc and 45% Semillon and 5% Muscadelle with 50% new oak, it has a fine nose, good definition, grapefruit, pear and lime. The palate is fresh and lively, crisp apple, grapefruit and a touch of lime cordial. Crisp lively finish. Very fine. Tasted April 2009.

St Estèphe
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2008 Château Cos d'Estournel (94-96)
A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, cropped at 27hl/ha and representing 78% of total production. It has a deep purple colour. The nose takes some coaxing so left a minute or two before I start taking notes. Good definition, perhaps less intensity than the 2007 but very well poised. Blackberry, freshly tilled soil, wild hedgerow and dewy meadows. The palate is medium-bodied, here you find the power and the intensity, very focused, a greater sense of mineralité than I have noticed in previous years. The finish is quite linear, very "correct" but it really stays in the mouth long after you have swallowed this nectar. A serious contender for wine of the vintage...it's that good. Tasted March 2009.

2008 Pagodes de Cos (90-92)
This has a very ripe, saturated nose of black cherry, kirsch, blueberry and violets. Moderate definition. There is a slight meaty element that may become more pronounced with bottle age. The palate is medium-bodied, good depth, grainy tannins, nice edginess, very ripe black fruits on the finish with a citrus edge. Dry, slightly masculine finish, great length. Very good Deuxieme Vin. Tasted March 2009.

2008 Château Calon-Ségur (90-92)
Based upon 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, this has a deep garnet core. The nose has a distinct earthiness to it. Blackberry, a touch of pain grille and black pepper. A little rustic but charming. The palate is full-bodied, firm tannins, quite spicy and lively, blackberry, a touch of raspberry coulis and wild strawberry. Firm grip, masculine as always. Fresh with a touch of soy towards the bitter "chunky" finish. Quintessential Calon. Tasted March 2009.

2008 Château Les Ormes de Pez (90-92)
This has a ripe, opulent nose of blackberry, mulberry, a touch of boysenberry. Great lift although it could benefit from a little definition. Just a hint of singed leather. Full-bodied palate, firm tannins, very unresolved, quite peppery and earthy, quintessential Saint Estèphe really. A little chunky towards the finish, nice sharpness though, a little rustic charm. Grows in the glass...lovely. Bravo Jean-Charles! Tasted March 2009.

2008 Château de Pez (89-91)
A blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot cropped at 38hl/ha (lower than Montrose). This has a light cedary nose, a little herbaceous with a hint of cigar box. Quite tight at the moment. The palate is better than the nose suggests: saturated black fruits on the entry, a touch of spice, thick tannins, nice weight in the mouth, but strict on the finish with a touch of tar and black pepper. Nice length. Good potential. Tasted March 2009.

2008 Château Montrose (88-90?)
A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, cropped at 44hl/ha and representing 60% of production. It has a deep garnet core. The bouquet is very "classic" – rather aloof and austere. Again, there are dominant sous-bois and tobacco aromas. Moderate vigour: conservative. The palate is medium-bodied, quite sharp on the entry, austere and foursquare. Holding something back perhaps? A touch of salt and pepper on the finish. Very linear. A serious Montrose that could do with more joie-de-vivre. I regret being able to taste this just once, as others are more positive about this wine. Tasted March 2009.

Margaux
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2008 Chateau Palmer (93-95)
Very deep colour. Like the Alter Ego, the nose takes some coaxing from the glass, it is not as generous as the 2006 or 2007, rather this unfurls gracefully in the glass. Black cherries, violets with boysenberry and a touch of iodine. A slight clayey accent coming through. The palate is full-bodied, it has that same sense of energy, a real prickle on the tongue, very fresh and taut – tension. Firm tannins, again quite strict on the finish. Correct but supremely well focused. A certain austerity at the finish, but that will mellow out in time. Impressive (again). Tasted April 2009.

2008 Alter Ego de Palmer (90-92)
Deep purple colour. The nose is reticent at first, takes some coaxing, ripe fleshy red fruit, a touch of damson, black cherry and blueberry. Nice definition but it remains tightly coiled. The palate is spicy, lovely prickle on the tongue, vibrant black fruits, lots of energy here. Good length. A little like a spring. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Margaux (90-92)
A blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot with 1.5% each of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, this has a comparatively introspective nose of black fruits, sous-bois, a touch of cigar box and a little graphite. Like the Pavillon, it has something of a Pauillac austerity to it. The palate is medium-bodied, very fine tannins, sensuous texture, less floral than usual, more broody and introspective, but understated and elegant on the finish. There is more tangible sous-bois character than usual, an enigmatic Château Margaux that could benefit from more depth and length. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Pavillon Blanc de Chateau Margaux (89-91)
Less than half the crop harvested through three tries. The nose has good lift with grapefruit, pear, a touch of lanolin and apple-blossom. The palate is well balanced and I agree with Pontallier that it is subtler than the 2007. Grapefruit, a touch of paw paw, lanolin, a nice creamy texture. Good acidity and poise on the finish. Fine. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau du Tertre (90-92)
This has a light, earthy nose with good definition, cedar and sous-bois, just a hint of black tea. The palate is very fine with pure black fruits, cedar, a touch of vanilla, svelte, fully ripe tannins and well balanced on the finish. This is a great success for the vintage. Sorbet-like finish. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau d'Issan (90-92)
This d'Issan takes a little coaxing from the glass, but it is worth the effort: blackberry, a touch of boysenberry and wild hedgerow. Good definition. The palate is medium-bodied, good weight and acidity, just a touch of dryness towards the finish but it has very good structure and persistency. Tight at the moment, but I think this will blossom once in bottle. A dark horse! Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Rauzan-Gassies (90-92)
The nose is not particularly riveting with cedar, blackberry, sous-bois and a touch of dried orange peel. Lacks a little cohesion but it does improve in the glass. The palate has fine tannins, quite feminine, lifted black fruit, good focus and cohesion with ripe blackberry and spice towards the finish. Good effort from an estate that is slowly but surely getting its act together. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Rauzan-Ségla (90-92)
Compared to Rauzan-Gassies, the Rauzan Segla has more fruit concentration on the nose: blackberry, tar, a touch of pomegranate and spice. Good definition. The palate is medium-bodied, harmonious, just lacking the structure and length that I was expecting. Given time in the glass though it begins to unfold, revealing more depth than first supposed with a very elegant finish of blackberry, cedar and graphite. This should give much more after bottling. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Malescot St. Exupery (89-92)
This has moderate definition on the nose: blackberry, a touch of leather, sous-bois and cigar box. More Pauillac than Margaux! A second bottle is a little more voluptuous. Hints of baked dark cherry and cranberry coming through. The palate is not bad at all: sweet lifted entry, vibrant dark cherry fruits with just a touch of damson, good acidity and definition towards the finish. Improves the longer it stays in the mouth. A second bottle is very elegant on the finish. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Prieuré-Lichine (89-91)
This has a lifted, rather herbaceous nose with great definition and vigour – more Pauillac than Margaux with overt tobacco and cigar box aromas. The palate is well balanced with good depth of fruit, toasty black fruits, tobacco and a touch of graphite, leading to a rather foursquare but well defined finish. Good wine from this estate. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau d'Angludet (88-90)

2008 Chateau Marquis de Terme (88-90)

2008 Chateau Brane-Cantenac (83-85?)

2008 Chateau Cantenac Brown (83-85)

2008 Chateau Dauzac (85-87)

2008 Chateau Desmirail (86-88)+

2008 Chateau Durfort-Vivens (84-86)

2008 Chateau Ferrière (84-86)

2008 Chateau Giscours (83-85?)

2008 Chateau La Gurge (85-87)

2008 Chateau Kirwan (85-87)

2008 Chateau Lascombes (85-87)

Saint Julien
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2008 Chateau Lagrange (92-95)
A blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot with just 40% of the Grand Vin. Harvest: 6th October finished 23rd October. The nose is far more introverted than in previous years but well defined with blackberry, cassis, just a touch of mocha and cedar. Tightly coiled. The palate has it all going on: beautifully fine tannins, wonderful balance and purity, this is an exquisite Lagrange that is bursting with energy. Bon vin! Tasted twice with consistent notes. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou (92-94)
This contains 10% pressed wine (Bruno classifies five types of press wine and only uses the best.) A deep purple colour. Again, the nose is a little reticent at first but unfurls nicely in the glass with blackberry, cassis, a touch of graphite and smoke. There is a fine sense of mineralité this year. The palate is full-bodied, firm tannins, masculine, structured but great purity. Blackberry, cassis, blueberry and a touch of crushed violets. Grainy finish, a little unresolved but very fine matière. Good length and it harmonizes with aeration. More conservative than Las-Cases, but it is still extremely well crafted and should age gracefully. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Leoville Las-Cases (92-94)
A blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc (a little higher than usual) with 10.3% pressed wine. Cropped at 37.9hl/ha and coming in at a respectable 13.4% alcohol, the harvest commencing on 6th October, this has a ravishing nose of cassis, black plum, violets and a touch of eucalyptus – quite atypical for an '08. The palate is full-bodied with cashmere tannins on the entry, seductive, a little spicy, the back palate with almost a vanillary sweet finish. This is a lascivious Las-Cases that is nigh irresistible at this stage. Gorgeous – but how will it age? Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Leoville Poyferré (91-93)
A blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot. Ripe saturated blackberry on the nose with touches of cedar and smoke all in Poyferre's usual extrovert style. The palate has very good fruit concentration with pure blackberry, blueberry, boysenberry and cedar. Good sense of mineralité and tension on the finish. Great length. Much improvement over the 2007. Excellent. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Leoville Barton (90-92)
A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, similar to Langoa this is very ripe and rich on the nose – blackberry, a touch of cedar, fig and Xmas cake. Good definition. The palate is tannic, masculine, good level of ripeness with cedar, blueberry, cassis and blackberry. Very assertive, really lacquers the mouth although I cannot help but think it is a degree too sweet on the prune-tinged finish. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Gloria (90-92)
This is reticent on the nose: earthy, introverted with touches of sandalwood and cedar. The palate is medium-bodied, good weight and acidity, nicely balanced and focused with fresh red-berried fruit, cranberry and red cherry. Nicely poised on the finish, the kind of wine that leaves a smile in your face. Very fine. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Gruaud Larose (90-92)
A blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot and 9% Petit Verdot. Moderate intensity on the nose, black fruits, a touch of soot, tobacco and smoke. Good definition but needs to coalesce. The palate is medium-bodied, grainy tannins, nice weight and acidity. Fresh and as always, full of character. The finish has a touch of spice and cedar to it – more Cabernet than usual. This is a restrained but nicely focused Gruaud. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Clos du Marquis (90-92)
A blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot with 7.5% pressed wine, this has one of the few "voluptuous" noses of the vintage, quite lush with violets, cassis and black plum soaring from the glass: this is a bouquet that embraces you - very sensuous. Very smooth on the entry, this Clos du Marquis is blessed with silky tannins that really caress that palate. Black cherries and blueberries with cassis coming through on the back palate, the Merlot driving it through to the fleshy finish with surprisingly good weight. Top class. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Lalande Borie (89-91)
This has more fruit intensity on the nose than the Duluc. Blackberry, roasted herbs, a touch of tar and leather. Moderate definition. The palate is much better, good fruit intensity, well integrated new oak (20-30%), nice depth, grainy tannins leading to a tannic but fresh finish with ample fruit. Good effort. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Beychevelle (88-90)
A blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, this Beychevelle has a very tobacco dominated nose, the fruit just a little suppressed at the moment. Very tight, rather introverted. The palate is better, ripe entry, a little sharpness, blackberry, nice vanillary oak and grainy texture towards the finish with decent weight. Hopefully the bouquet will meliorate during élevage. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Branaire Ducru (88-90)
Like the Beychevelle '08, this is tight on the nose, a touch of dried leaves and tobacco. Quite light compared to other vintages. The palate has a sharp, slightly angular entry, firm tannins; this needs to mellow out during élevage. A little black pepper, sharp acidity, good weight on the tannic finish. Possibly the dark horse as it should improve. Tasted April 2009.

2008 La Croix de Beaucaillou (88-90)
This is a little reticent on the nose. Blackberry, tar, graphite, lots of cedar and sous-bois gaining in intensity with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, firm tannins, graphite-tinged black fruits, nice weight and grainy texture. There is a sense of tension on the foursquare, tannic finish. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Langoa Barton (88-90)
A blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc, the Langoa '08 has a very rich, almost prune-scented nose – very extrovert for this normally conservative Saint Julien. Perhaps just a little over-macerated? The palate is better: full-bodied, quite rich, very tannic – must have been thick skins here. Very ripe black fruit with a touch of vanilla and cedar towards the finish. This is a Langoa with bravura, though I am unsure whether that suits its style? Tasted April 2009.

Pessac Léognan
Rouge
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2008 Chateau Haut-Brion (94-96)
A blend of 41% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Cabernet Franc. The nose is very expressive, ripe redcurrants, wild strawberries, a touch of gravel and a little wild hedgerow and black plum. The bouquet appears to be more expressive than recent vintages. The palate is very well balanced and slightly grainy, very fresh, lots of energy on the finish with a minerally undertow. The focus is very impressive: one feels this is an Haut-Brion that will blossom after bottling, for unlike the nose, the palate feels as if it is holding something back. Firm tannins, traces of earth and bay leaf on the finish. Excellent – but patience is necessary. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion (92-94+)
A blend of 43% Merlot, 51% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Cabernet Franc. This is more conservative on the nose than the Chateau Haut-Brion, but with time it begins to unfurl (at least ten minutes in the glass.) Blackberry, cedar, a touch of sandalwood – very tight, but it begins to blossom, developing hints of boysenberry and wild nettle. The palate is like a tight fist, austere and introverted, a moody bugger but there are some very fine tannins and structure towards the finish. A dark horse. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Pape-Clément Rouge (91-93)
Very intense and ripe on the nose: black plum, cassis, liquorice and black olive. Extrovert – a hint of tinned fig in the background. The palate is full-bodied, firm tannins, good acidity, structured and perhaps more restrained than the nose suggests. Lovely focus on the plumy, austere finish. Sophisticated and classy but it will take time for those tannins to soften. Excellent. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Branon Rouge (90-92)
A lovely nose with dark, chocolate tinged fruit, good definition, a touch of smoke. Great lift from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, a touch of spice on the entry, nice prickle in the mouth, good weight of fruit with a well balanced, off-dry finish. Quite deep and broody but tons of personality that will need a few years to evolve. Excellent. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge (90-92)
This is a little reticent on the nose, blackberry, liquorices and a touch of tar. Nice definition but very tight. The palate is full-bodied with ripe toasty tannins, nicely balanced and very good weight. Well defined with blackberry, pain grille and a touch of liquorices (a very light touch.) Classy stuff – just a little dryness on the finish. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau de Fieuzal Rouge (90-92)
This has an attractive nose of blackberry, boysenberry and a touch of limestone. Good definition and elegance. The palate is ripe, medium-bodied, firm tannins, well balanced with a fine sense of earthiness, of being Pessac-Léognan. Tasted twice with consistent notes: this is an excellent effort. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Haut-Bailly (90-92)
This has a lovely ripe nose of blackberry, boysenberry, earth and a touch of wild mint. Very good definition. The palate has firm tannins, well-integrated oak, very focused and superb freshness. Much more structure than I was anticipating, this could be a long-term Haut-Bailly although at the moment it is very tannic on the finish. Not an Haut-Bailly that is expressive at primeur, but one that should blossom by bottling. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Haut-Bergey Rouge (90-92)
This has a deep purple colour. The nose is extrovert and generous, with bilberry and damson scents at first, a hint of scorched earth underneath. Good definition. This is a more masculine Haut-Bergey, very good structure, a savoury quality in the middle, ample toasty black fruits, nice grippy, peppery off-dry finish. Excellent. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Malartic-Lagravière Rouge (89-92)
Dark cherry, briary and plum on the nose – good definition. Touch of damson fruit coming through. The palate is medium-bodied, firm but fine tannins, crisp blackberry and boysenberry with a well-structured finish. This is a much better wine than the white. Good length – this is a great effort and it may merit a higher score by time of bottling. Tasted April 2009.

2008 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion (89-91)
A blend of 39% Merlot, 56% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. The bouquet is fleshier with more fruit intensity than the Clarence Haut-Brion: blackberry, boysenberry, a hint of green pepper (not too much) and good definition. The palate is medium-bodied, austere on the entry but with some decent fruit in the middle. There is a slight dustiness to the tannins, chalky texture towards the finish, but there is sufficient fruit here to balance it out in the long-term. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Rouge (89-91)
This is very ripe and plumy on the nose with touches of cassis, raisin and liquorice. Just a little over the top for me. The palate is very ripe and supple, a Margaux-like texture, silky tannins, very focused and sensuous on the finish. As usual, this is a polished wine, not as complex as others but texturally it is wonderful. It will be interesting to see whether this gains nuances during élevage, although it cuts away abruptly. Tasted April 2009.

Blanc
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2008 Chateau Laville Haut-Brion (92-94)
A blend of 79% Semillon and 21% Sauvignon Blanc. The nose is bright and lively with grapefruit, a touch of pear and apple, nice definition and after ten minutes there are hints of vanilla pod evolving. The palate is fresh and citrus-like, nice tension, a touch of pear. Lime and apple-blossom towards the finish. Very elegant and poised. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Haut-Brion Blanc (91-93)
A blend of 55% Semillon and 45% Sauvignon Blanc cropped at 41hl/ha. This has very good intensity and complexity on the nose, citrus-fruits, pear, tangerine and white flowers. The palate has lovely poise, very fresh with green apple, green lemon, apricot, orange-blossom and passion fruit, leading to a very focused finish that lingers seductively. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc (91-93)
This has a superior mineral intensity than other dry white Bordeaux this year with very good definition. The palate has a ripe apply entry with pear, lime and gooseberry, very vibrant with great length. Its class really shows through. This is a great success considering the vintage. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Haut-Bergey Blanc (90-92)
A blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon. The nose is lovely: apricot, peach, orange zest and well-judged vanillary new oak (20%-30%.) Great definition. The palate has good depth of fruit, fine acidity and a crisp, peachy, lemon zest finish. Beautifully crafted – a sense of 'completeness' about this wine, although only 3,500 bottles produced instead of the 6,000. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion (89-91)
This has a pleasant apple-blossom and lime tinged nose with just a hint of apricot. Gains intensity with aeration – hints of apricot and pink grapefruit coming forth. The palate is well balanced, subtle tropical flavours with apricot and orange-blossom. Good wine for the vintage. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc (87-89)
This is lacking its usual exuberance and complexity on the nose, a little green with touches of apple and lime. The palate is better with some lovely apricot notes, citrus lemon and a touch of orange-blossom. Hopefully the aromatics can blossom by the time of bottling. I just wanted a bit more from this. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Pape-Clément Blanc (86-88)
This has a fine, apply, stony nose with a touch of white flowers and wild heather. Nice lift. The palate is a little oaky for me, nice texture and acidity but lacking the intellect of say, Domaine de Chevalier. Not bad though. Tasted April 2009.

Saint Émilion
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2008 Château Cheval Blanc (95-98)
This has a more understated nose that usual but do not be misled, it has wonderful definition and poise, a sense of natural harmony that had already been perceived on the Second Wine. There is a tertiary scent that is coming from the Cabernet Franc which is superb. The palate is very well a balanced, great vibrancy and tension, super-fine tannins, a little more structure thanks to the Cabernet Franc. PL – "a pixellated wine." Lovely pure raspberry and red cherry towards the poised, fresh finish. This is a wonderful, natural Cheval Blanc. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Ausone (95-97)
A blend of 45% Merlot and 55% Cabernet Franc, the Ausone is muted on the nose at first – it really needs time to unfurl and when it does, there are wonderful pure blackberries, cassis, damson and loganberries. It has spellbinding definition – razor-sharp. The palate has cashmere tannins, sensuous texture and ethereal harmony. Does not just caress the mouth, but leaves it utterly in love and hoping for marriage. A brilliant wine from Alain Vauthier this year, but we have come to expect nothing less. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Le Tertre-Rôteboeuf (94-96)
This has a very well defined nose: maraschino, wild strawberry, a "gourmand" bouquet, something slightly digestive about it. Very pure though. The palate is medium- to full bodied, good acidity, nice weight, bright red fruits but there is something far more deeper within: hoi sin, a irony character that especially comes through on the finish. Good length, very good nervosité on the finish. Excellent. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Grand-Mayne (93-95)
Moderate intensity on the nose with blackberry, blueberry and a touch of cassis. Quite tight – not as showy as usual. Good definition – plus there is a sorbet quality underneath. The palate is medium-bodied, good weight and fine tannins. This is a more reserved Grand-Mayne but there is still great breeding here, a fine poise on the finish, less power than in previous years but perhaps greater freshness. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Pavie (93-95)
A blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, cropped at 32hl/ha and aged in 65% new oak, 35% one-year wooden barrels, the '08 Pavie has a super-ripe, cassis-driven nose, hoi sin, spice and a touch of sloe. The palate is full-bodied with very fine tannins, lovely caressing texture, good acidity, just a little more refined than say Bellevue-Mondotte. Very pure on the finish although those tannins linger longer afterwards. Excellent – a ravishing Pavie. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Pavie-Macquin (93-95)
This has a very precise nose, tense black cherry and blueberry, wonderful definition. Not trying too hard – very natural. The palate is just superb: very pure, extremely fine tannins, immense focus and definition. Dark cherries and a touch of blueberry. Precise finish – this is top class. Bravo! Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Angélus (92-94)
A blend of 58% Merlot and 42% Cabernet Franc, this has a deep ruby colour. This has a deep, almost savoury nose, the Cabernet Franc driving the bouquet along with touches of brambly black fruits, wet clay, a touch of spice and white pepper. Very complex. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, quite spicy on the entry, elegant, less "slick" than recent vintages but one might argue, more "cerebral". Off dry, peppery finish. Very fine. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Barde-Haut (92-94)
This has a deep purple/ruby colour. The nose is fragrant, with ripe cherry, blueberry and a touch of violets. Nice definition although it needs time to open. The palate is silky smooth, very intense, lovely poise and purity with blueberry, cassis, a touch of spice, Very nice weight on the finish. This is an outstanding Saint Emilion for the vintage. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Barde-Haut (92-94)
This has a deep purple/ruby colour. The nose is fragrant, with ripe cherry, blueberry and a touch of violets. Nice definition although it needs time to open. The palate is silky smooth, very intense, lovely poise and purity with blueberry, cassis, a touch of spice, Very nice weight on the finish. This is an outstanding Saint Emilion for the vintage. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Le Dôme (92-94)
A blend of 73% Cabernet Franc and 27% Merlot (no pressed wine in this blend), this Le Dome is introverted on the nose, as one would expect from such a nascent Cabernet Franc-based wine. Give it time as some attractive notes of cassis, black plum and violets emerge. The palate is full-bodied with very sensuous tannins, a creamy mouthfeel, supremely well focused and taut with a pure dark fruit tannic finish. Excellent. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Figeac (92-94)
This has quite an elegant nose, quite minerally, pert black fruits, griottes, boysenberry. Less masculine than usual. The palate is well structured with robust tannins, fresh and lively with blackberry, boysenberry and blueberry with a touch of cedar towards the finish. Grippy, good depth and length. As usual, more austere than other Saint Emilions because of the Cabernet, but great length. A wine with stature. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Monbousquet (92-93)
A blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, the rest Cabernet Sauvignon and cropped at 33hl/ha, this Monbousquet has a high-toned, plumy, iodine tinged bouquet, a little pinched at the moment but with some attractive violet scents developing in the glass. The palate is full-bodied with a superb structure, weight cassis and plum-flavoured fruits, very persistent – grippy on the finish and very, very pure. It could do with just a touch more definition on the finish. Tasted April 2009

2008 Château La Serre (91-93)
A deep garnet/purple colour. The nose has good vigour, cohesive, Doris plum, baked dark cherries, a hint of thyme and roasted herbs (though very, very faint.) The palate is just lovely: svelte tannins, very sensuous in the mouth, caressing and so elegant. Very ripe, cashmere tannins towards the finish. Good length. This is a superb success – perfectly nuanced Saint Emilion. Irresistible. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Troplong Mondot (91-93)
A very dense, almost impenetrable nose with layers of dark, earthy fruit that change in the glass, revealing some intriguing coconut/almond scents from the oak. Very typical in style for the château with its firm robust tannins, good weight of fruit, dense blackberry, boysenberry and smoke-tinged finish. Very good length. Excellent. Tasted twice with consistent notes. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Valandraud (91-93)
A ripe, sappy nose: Morello, wild strawberry, redcurrant and well integrated creamy oak. Nice and pure. Good lift. The palate is well balanced with good acidity, wild strawberry, red cherry and cranberry, nice focus, linear with good length. A very "correct" Valandraud, perhaps more conservative than usual but certainly well crafted and adorned with silky tannins on the red-berried, cranberry and raspberry-tinged finish. This is a very natural, graceful Valandraud. Tasted April 2009

2008 Château Bellevue-Mondotte (91-93)
A blend of 90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon cropped at just 25hl/ha and aged in 80% new oak, this has another very pure cassis-driven nose, although it appears to be more restrained than usual, fourth-gear rather than fifth. The palate is full-bodied with thick, saturated tannins, well balanced though, no rough edges here with a super-smooth cassis, crème de menthe finish. Like others it completely lacquers the mouth – long-term Saint Emilion. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Larcis-Ducasse (91-93)
This has a ripe, dark cherry, bergamot tinged nose, more refined than recent vintages with a touch of warm earth. The palate is full-bodied with chewy tannins, a good level of ripeness and purity with a grainy finish. Very good depth and expression. This is a more constrained style of Larcis-Ducasse, ergo I prefer this to other vintages. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Vieux Château Mazerat (90-92)
In 1996 when JM bought Le Dome, to the right of Angelus in front of Beausejour-Lagarosse on clay over limestone, 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc. This has a well defined nose, dark cherries, violets, crème de menthe and cassis. The palate is full-bodied with very fine tannins, good weight, very pure with touches of blackberry, crushed stones, a touch of cassis and blueberry. Focused towards the finish that lacquers the mouth with fine tannins. Excellent. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Pavie Decesse (90-92)
A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, cropped at 30hl/ha and aged in 70% new oak, this has a very rich, very pure nose with black cherries, a touch of sloes and prune. I find this just a little over-ripe if anything. The palate is showing better balance but boy, do those tannins coat the mouth! Pure blackberry, cassis and plum with a long, long finish. This will need several years before it becomes approachable. Very tannic. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Moulin St. Georges (90-92)
From Alain Vauthier's estate, a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, this is showing very good fruit intensity on the nose, the oak very unresolved at the moment, nice purity though with blackberries, a touch of iodine and blueberry compote. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, supple and quite fleshy, lovely focus on the caressing finish. Nice tension with wild strawberry and raspberry liqueur. Excellent. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Le Petit Cheval (90-92)
A blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc – this has a very well defined nose with red cherry, pomegranate and a touch of redcurrant. Light but very fresh. The palate is very fresh, very well balanced, extremely elegant and so lovely to drink that you almost want it to skip the elevage. Fine tannins, beautiful second wine. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Daugay (90-92)
A blend of 65% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, this has a ripe, energetic nose, brimming with vigour with bright, black cherry fruit, a touch of kirsch. The palate is medium-bodied, fine tannins, lovely balance and poise. Grainy tannins towards the savoury tinged finish. Very natural and appealing. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chapelle d'Ausone (90-92)
A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, this Chapelle has very fine ripeness on the nose with black cherries, cassis and violets. Very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite assertive tannins, very good structured to the Chapelle this year, but as always imbued with elegance and refinement on the finish. Very fine. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière (90-92)
This has a fine, vibrant nose with brambly black fruits, a hint of sous-bois and liquorices. Good definition but tightly coiled. The palate is nicely balanced, quite chewy tannins and very linear towards the grainy black cherry and boysenberry finish. Classy, but not what you might describe as an explosive wine. Tasted April 2009.

Pomerol
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2008 Chateau Pétrus (96-98)
This has a very feminine nose that wafts from the glass: certainly more expressive than usual at this stage, pure dark cherries, raspberry, blueberry and violets. The palate is full-bodied, very powerful and generous with layers of dark fruits, awesome definition and focus. This is a Petrus that undoubtedly lives up to the billing. This Pétrus is extraordinarily minerally on the finish with an aftertaste that just will not go away. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Le Pin (95-97)
Started the harvest on 1st October in three shifts, with the young vines and waited three of four days with the older vine. This has an intriguing nose – usually Le Pin is all sweetness and light at this stage, but here, it is deeper, darker and broodier – perhaps even more complex than the outstanding 2006. Brambly black fruits, a touch of blueberry and wild hedgerow, crushed stones. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, imbued with the same sense of minerality that I think their vines are now imparting. An enthralling sense of energy on the finish. This is a serious. Tasted April 2009. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Lafleur (95-97)
A blend of 46% Merlot and 56% Cabernet Franc harvested 4-6th October 14th September until 5th October. Here we have one of those Lafleur's with a sulky, reticent nose, but that does not presage a poor wine, rather one that does not need to give everything away prematurely. The nose is tight at first and takes time to unfurl, very broody with touches of oyster shell and cockle sheds. The palate is full-bodied, again demonstrating that "controlled power", silky smooth tannins, very sensuous but belying the persistency and puissance towards the finish. An almost digestive aftertaste. A cerebral Lafleur for long-terms cellaring. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau L'Eglise-Clinet (95-97)
A blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, this has a very pure, elegant nose with brilliant definition. It has an almost Burgundian personality. The palate has awesome balance – so much freshness and tension. Tart red cherries, crushed violets and minerals. Crushed stones on the finish. Also tasted samples directly from the barrel that are showing more power and depth, perhaps a greater length, less of the precision that will eventually be the signature of this great Pomerol. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau L'Evangile (93-95)
A very hard green harvest – 27hl/ha. Lots of work with the soil and the selection during the harvest using their 38-45hl cuves. They taste every parcel to make micro-blends. A blend of 88% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc and matured entirely in new oak. The harvest commenced on 29th September when the harvest for the 2007 finished! It has a deep purple colour. The nose is very impressive, extremely pure and floral with lovely scents of blueberry, violets and cassis with a touch of vanilla. You can almost smell the silkiness. The palate is full-bodied, cashmere tannins, very harmonious and elegant with notes of blackberry, dark cherry, a hint of spice. But it is the texture that is so charming. A sensuous L'Evangile this year. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Trotanoy (93-95)
A deep garnet core with purple tints. The nose is very backward at first, dense black fruits, raspberry, a touch of oyster shell, very well defined. The palate is full-bodied, incredibly powerful with a huge structure. This is a long-term Trotanoy that lingers in the mouth, but a little sulky at this stage. Leviathan. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Clinet (92-94?)
Ah – now I like this nose – not as oaked or showing as much sur-maturité as previous vintages. Good definition, quite floral, blueberry, a touch of violets, quite feminine. The palate has fine tannins, very good balanced and poise, very pure and focused. Vibrant dark cherries, blueberries and briary – elegant finish. This is the best Clinet for some years and yet a second bottle displayed some prune/sur-maturité aromas that I have found detracting in the past. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Certan de May (92-94)
The bouquet is adorable: wonderful definition with maraschino, wild strawberries, a touch of orange liqueur and violets. The palate is full-bodied, very powerful and focused with fine tannins, very good backbone and wonderful purity. Blackberry, wild strawberry and blueberry pie. My only gripe is that it does not fan-out on the finish as I would like it to, though maybe it will with bottle age? Superb. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Château La Fleur de Gay (92-94)
This is a superb Pomerol courtesy of Doc. Reynaud. Even though the nose is rather muted with blackberry and cassis aromas taking some coaxing, the palate is undeniably balanced, pure and as smooth as a baby's bottom. Finely tuned, vigorous, svelte in texture with a touch of "cola" on the finish. Lovely. Tasted March 2009.

2008 Chateau Petit-Village (91-93)
A blend of 78% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Cabernet Franc, this has quite a voluptuous nose: smooth cassis and dark plum with cedar accents coming through. Quite floral – violets. The palate is medium-bodied, svelte, quite saturated tannins, good acidity, nice weight and focus. Cedar, a touch of white pepper, the finish is persistent. Very fine. Wine gum right on the after taste. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Clos l'Eglise (90-92)
This has a very deep, purple colour. The nose is closed at first, broody and surly with blackberry and plum, a hint of boysenberry. The palate is well structured with fine tannins and a Cabernet Sauvignon-like personality. Silky smooth, tightly wound finish threaded through with Clos L'Eglise's trademark purité. Excellent. Tasted March 2009.

2008 Chateau La Fleur-Petrus (90-92)
There is certainly some super-ripe Merlot on the nose: black plum, cassis and macerated red cherries mixed with a touch of sloe. The palate follows suit: rich and decadent with layers of black fruits, a touch of tar and all spice. This really lacquers the palate, intent on making a last impression. Personally I would like to see more finesse but maybe that will become more evident with bottle age. Very tannic, almost brutish on the finish. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Chateau Latour-à-Pomerol (90-92+)
This Latour-a-Pomerol has a rich, decadent nose with ripe red cherries, kirsch, blueberry and a touch of scorched earth. It takes time to unfold, that initial opulence receding with further aeration. The palate is full-bodied with chewy tannins, an arching structure, great depth and persistency. Backward, surly, obdurate, this is a Latour-à-Pomerol with longevity in mind. Hopefully this will blossom after bottling. Tasted April 2009.

2008 Vieux Château Certan (90-92?)
Just blended ten days ago, so it is no surprise to find the nose lacking the usual harmony at this stage. But a few swirls and it starts to come together – bright cherry fruits, a touch of clayey earth with nice definition. The palate is medium-bodied, more fruit-driven than usual with red cherry, wild strawberry, a touch of mulberry. Good acidity, lovely rounded finish. Nice tension but lacking a bit of persistency and weight on the finish. Tasted April 2009.

Sauternes/Barsac
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Chateau d'Yquem 95-97

Château de Fargues 94-96

De Suduiraut 93-95

Climens 92-95

Clos Haut Peyraguey 91-93

Guiraud 91-92

Lamothe-Guignard 91-93

Rieussec 91-93

Rayne-Vigneau 90-92

La Tour Blanche 90-92

Château de Mall 90-92

Coutet 90-92

Doisy Daëne 90-92

Doisy Vedrines 89-91

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