Archive Releases
Jancis Robinsons Scores 2008
If you would like to view individual appellations please select one of the headings below.
St Emilion › Pomerol › St-Estèphe › Pauillac › Saint Julien › Margaux › Pessac-Léognan Rouge › Pessac-Léognan Blanc › Graves Blanc › Bordeaux Blanc › Sauternes & Barsac
St Emilion
Ch Ausone 2008 St- Émilion 18.5 Drink 2018-35
55% Cabernet Franc (picked 20 Oct), 45% Merlot (picked 17 and 18 Oct). Deliberately not picked for over-ripeness. 27 hl/ha. 16,000 bottles
Polished blackish purple. Wonderfully exotic and ripe on the nose – very nervy and exciting, Really caresses the palate. Lovely sensuality with lots of acidity and tension but fully ripe black fruit flavours. So clean and brilliant! So finely etched. Still very dry on the end but not excessively so. Great punch and energy. Definitely like an electric shock.
Ch Cheval Blanc 2008 St-Émilion 18- Drink 2018-35
Exceptionally dark crimson. Very polished. Fragrant and fresh. I got a hit of pine on this wine as well as on its new stablemate La Tour du Pin – maybe from the trees outside the tasting room here at Cheval? Very fine and sculpted and well mannered even if without perhaps quite the spark of life that one would ideally hope for. Very cool and fresh. Lots of very ripe tannin. Clearly lots of Cabernet Franc. Succulent and supple. Ticks all the boxes – am I being niggly to ask for just a little more misbehaviour? Perhaps because I have just tasted the pretty wild Pétrus. Clearly this will have a long life and I can't see it disappointing anyone. But whom will it actually thrill? Limpid and unctuous.
Ch Angélus 2008 St-Émilion 17.5 Drink 2015-27
Warm, toasty nose with real juice and life to it. Relaxed winemaking. Quite a bit of force though less vibrant than the Ch Ausone I have just tasted. But good purity and not too much alcohol. Sweet and succulent – just a little hint of dry tannins on the end.
Ch Pavie 2008 St-Émilion 17.5+ Drink 2014-28
70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Only 65% new oak this year.
Inky with barely a rim. Dark and firm, dry but with more freshness and the tannins a little more melted than in previous vintages. Gerard Perse described as 'more feminine' than in the last few years, though I think he must like his women to have worked out! Harvested last week in Oct to 2 Nov. Lovely dark fruit. Roasted but not cooked. Dark and intense but much more. Savoury and concentrated but not the bitterness of some previous vintages. (JH)
Ch La Fleur Morange 2008 St-Émilion 17.5+ Drink 2014-25
Intense, glowing crimson. Wonderfully smooth and gorgeous but with great undertow of freshness and incredibly ripe tannins. There is the most extraordinary contrast between the 2007 and 2008... Silky and really ripe, firm tannins. Glowing finish. Full of richness and life.
Ch Canon La Gaffelière 2008 St-Émilion 17.5 Drink 2016-30
Dark and dramatic-looking. Sweet, juicy fruit on the nose. Quite a fresh, aromatic attack. Comfortable and well balanced rather than exaggerated. Quite firm tannins on the finish. Great concentration but some fluidity too. Lovely frankness and freshness. Fresh, sinewy, good stuff!
Ch Franc-Mayne 2008 St-Émilion 17.5- Drink 2017-30
Dark crimson. Sweet purple fruit with just a hint of rawness. A heck of a lot of effort in this vigorous wine. Lots of ripe tannin and firm delivery of dry fruit. Good energy. Extremely concentrated though not sweet.
Ch Bellevue Mondotte 2008 St-Émilion 17+ Drink 2013-20
90% Cabernet, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc.
Rich, sweet dark damsons. Savoury, spicy. Very, very firm but not hard. Mouth-gripping at this point but has the fruit layer to fill it out in time. (JH)
Ch Tertre Roteboeuf 2008 St-Émilion 17.5! Drink 2012-20
Merlot with 15% Cabernet Franc.
Amazingly dark. Almost outrageously sweet. Such a statement – hence the exclamation mark with the score. This is a wine to love or loathe. François Mitjavile is surely almost teasing us with this eccentric wine. Burnt. Almost porty nose though actually fresh enough on the palate. Exotic, actually enough acid. So sweet it's almost chocolate. But lively too. Graceful and tender. Liquorice, treacle and leather. A remarkable wine.
Ch Pavie Decesse 2008 St-Émilion 17 Drink 2013-20
90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc.
Dark and inky. Black core. Rich, dark, intense and spicy. Very slightly raisined but not porty. Powerful, dense, full-blooded Merlot. Firm grip but in balance with the fruit weight. A way to go. (JH)
Ch Pavie Macquin 2008 St-Émilion 17 Drink 2017-30
Bright healthy crimson. Rich, juicy, succulent fruit. Really appetising. Lots of ripe fruit plus lots of acid and ripe tannin. Truly a youthful, but promising, package. Well done! Maybe just a tad too tart? Or maybe this will keep it going splendidly for the long life it deserves.
Ch Ausone, La Chapelle d'Ausone 2008 St- Émilion 17 Drink 2018-30
80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc.
Second wine of Ausone. Dark purple. Toasty, spicy, attention-grabbing. Very sweet start then lots of acid. Considerable focus and energy. Very dry finish. A bit like an electric shock. Rich and sweet start. Pretty damned good as a second wine!
Ch Cheval Blanc, Le Petit Cheval 2008 St-Émilion 17 Drink 2014-21
Second wine. Dark crimson. Rich yet dry and vigorous on the nose. Very sweet start – round and flattering even if without massive tannins. Though they certainly lurk there under the fruit. Lots of spice. Just lacks a little follow through though there is certainly lots of pleasure here for the medium term.
Pomerol
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Ch Pétrus 2008 Pomerol 18+ Drink 2018-40
Deep crimson. Not the freshest sample on the nose. Lots of power and wildness – really does taste as though it springs from the earth to heal sore throats everywhere. But it's a less civilised, less tamed expression than the Trotanoy tasted alongside. Very complex with a dry rather than sweet finish. Extremely complex rather than an easy charmer. Quite burly. A J P Moueix wine.
Ch Lafleur 2008 Pomerol 18+ Drink 2016-30
54% Cabernet Franc, 46% Merlot. 'We think 2006 will lead it for quite a few years but maybe 2008 will overtake it eventually'.
Quite deep. Cabernet Franc is very fine and elegant. Deep and concentrated crimson. Much more structure and harmony and completely subtle all the way through. Great silky depth. Sinew and long. So fine, so classical. Not super sweet, but lovely. Juicy. Concentrated. Muscular but not gawky. Very fine and harmonious. Herbs and black fruits but very subtle. Revitalising. Very fresh and very long. Elastic and energetic.
Le Pin 2008 Pomerol 18 Drink 2015-25
Picked 1 and 2 Oct and the following Tuesday.
Mid crimson. Rich and vegy and succulent. Very sweet and complete and lively. So polished and juicy yet great vivacity. Great zest as well as sweetness. Great stuff , all the way through. Very smooth and lots of sleek quality. Much the most energetic vintage of Pin I remember. Not much higher than 13% alcohol but definitely Le Pin in terms of richness.
Ch La Fleur-Pétrus 2008 Pomerol 18 Drink 2018-32
Mid as opposed to deep crimson. Very rich, then peppery on the nose. Limpid sweetness with powerful liquorice and real appeal. Very visceral in its appeal. Great richness. This one lets itself go – not a stitch of corsetry in sight. Very seductive. A J P Moueix wine.
Ch Trotanoy 2008 Pomerol 18 Drink 2014-32
Deep healthy crimson. Very rich and dense. A broad panoply of aromas. Really interesting aromatically, and wonderfully balanced and neat. Tea leaves fragrance plus great richness AND polish. A lovely package. This suggests it may drink well throughout its life, so hedonistic is the fruit. Long and neat. A J P Moueix wine.
Vieux Château Certan 2008 Pomerol 17.5 Drink 2015-27
70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon – all of our Cabernet Sauvignon. 'Last time we put all our Cabernet Sauvignon in the wine was 2000'. Blended a week before. 'Everything is very late'.
Bright crimson. Fresh, meaty, savoury nose. Much less obviously sweet than Le Pin from the same family – though there is a certain freshness and bloodiness. Reminds me a little of Haut-Brion in its fresh frank expression. Very firm. Very precise – no flatterer. Quite cool. Good attack. 13.2%
Ch l'Église-Clinet 2008 Pomerol 17.5 Drink 2014-27
Mid crimson. Scented and rich on the nose. Very broad and mouthfilling – quite complex. Much more than just sweet. An interesting wine – quite different from most Pomerols. Lots of lift and attack – not at all playing the sweetness card. Very appetising. Intriguing – even quite intellectual. Explosive with a savoury finish. Smooth and sleek and complete. Good wine! No holes. Lots of energy.
Ch Nénin 2008 Pomerol 17.5 Drink 2013-20
Also less than 30% new oak and from mostly Merlot but from the higher plateau.
Dense. Quite refined structure but with lovely rich supple fruit – really very impressive. As though all tightened up with a drawstring towards the end. Very rich at the start but lots of structure. A very successful Nénin.
Ch Providence 2008 Pomerol 17.5 Drink 2018-32
Mid crimson. A very slight note of rawness on the nose? Enormous colour and ambition and on the palate it's glorious – smooth as satin and with lovely balance and energy. One of the more transparent JP Moueix wines
Ch Petit Village 2008 Pomerol 17+ Drink 2015-25
In 2004 they dug up the poor clones. In 2006 they took on Stéphane Derenoncourt and built a new winery. So 2007 and 2008 are wines of the new era.
Very deep blackish crimson. Meaty/yeast extract. Very sweet. Rich. Lively. Not the sweetest Pomerol 2008 but very dense. Energetic and lively. Big improvement on some past vintages. Very positive and structured but with good flesh and concentration. Long. Cool, fresh, succulent, limpid and not forced. Very slightly rustic but lots of personality – a success!
Ch Le Bon Pasteur 2008 Pomerol 17+ Drink 2013-20
Lovely rich, dark spicy fruit. Smells intoxicating. Dry and savoury on the palate. Dense, firm and dry and rather reluctant on the palate. But long and determined. (JH)
Ch L'Évangile 2008 Pomerol 17 Drink 2014-25
Extremely deep crimson. Healthy look. Rich and spicy nose – much riper than some Pomerols (eg Conseillante and Église Clinet). Very heady and seductive. Rich and round and very flattering. Even a little tarry. Pretty chewy on the finish. Rather dry on the finish. Super opulent. Tar macadam dry finish. Fat and fleshy. Super flattering but may prove not as long lived as some?
Ch Clinet 2008 Pomerol 17 Drink 2012-18
Bright, cedary black fruit on the nose, peppery. Lively and inviting. Dense and rich on the mid palate with firm but sweet tannins and a fine bright zesty finish. (JH)
Clos l'Église 2008 Pomerol 17 Drink 2012-18
Fragrant red fruit and a light touch of sweet oak spice. Elegant, fine, medium bodied. Finishes fine and very dry and lingers well. (JH)
Ch La Conseillante 2008 Pomerol 17 Drink 2015-27
90% of production. Merlot with 14% Cabernet Franc. 90% new oak but with malo in tank not barrel.
Zesty nose. Fresh, fine nose. Subtle and juicy and really rather glorious. That's my only criticism. Easy to like. Very sweet and engaging with good dynamism but just a hint of sawdust. Lots of oak! Very polished – though a little bit dry on the finish.
St-Estèphe
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Ch Cos d'Estournel 2008 St-Estèphe 18 Drink 2018-32
78% went into this thanks to small vats in new cellar. High IPT.
Extremely deep purplish crimson. It even feels heavy in the hand... Dense terroir expression dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon. Then some spice and much less brutal than some earlier vintages. Extremely vital and lively. Not as concentrated as Latour but (slightly) more energetic than Lafite. Great balance and very fine tannins. Some old hands will object that this is a little 'lighter' than, say, 2005 – but I think it's very well judged. Not a trace of unripeness of fruit or tannin. And some real personality jumps out. Should have an unusually long drinking window. Very ,very clean. Fine and neat. Livelier than many other vintages. 13.8%
Ch Calon-Ségur 2008 St-Estèphe 17.5+ Drink 2018-32
Mme Denise Capbern-Gasqueton is 85 and still very much in charge. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot. Merlot was picked on 6 and 7 Octand the Cabernet on 12 to 16 Oct. A new winemaker was brought in from 2006 aiming to work on the Cabernet Sauvignon, to extend the ripening process – as he had done at Ch Margaux. They changed the team – the new head of vines is ex-Ch Margaux and another important member of the team is ex-Ch Latour. Yield was 40 hl/ha, 50% went into the grand vin. 80% new barriques.
Deep crimson. Very different. Spicy sweet nose – very fluid. Quite a contrast to the austere Montrose we have just tasted! Quite rich and supple and fireworks. Round and rather glorious though not at all tarted up. Very fresh. Firm and with great spin though no compromises. Very classic. A very confident vintage for Calon-Ségur.
Ch Phélan Ségur 2008 St-Estèphe 17.5+ Drink 2013-25
Sweet and smooth and flattering. Perhaps not very St-Estèphe but a wine that should give enormous pleasure. Great balance and ripeness. Attractive and alluring top notes. Tea leaves. Aromatic. Great complete wine with no sign of under-ripeness.
Ch Les Ormes de Pez 2008 St-Estèphe 17 Drink 2014-26
Particularly dense colour. Spicy, peppery nose with very full, voluptuous fruit – correct – and very mouthfilling. Long. Makes quite a splash. Comforting and pretty classical. Blind, I preferred it to its grander stablemate Ch Lynch Bages.
Pauillac
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Ch Latour 2008 Pauillac 18.5 Drink 2020-40
Lowest Merlot proportion ever in the grand vin. The last time there was more than 90% Cabernet Sauvignon was 2004. 'Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot don't complement each other at Latour – Merlot diminishes our Cabernet Sauvignon unless they are very, very old Merlot vines which add texture and density and concentration. The rest dilute it. It's also probably our taste. I just don't like these Merlots – I prefer to keep this precision...'
Very dark and rich-looking. Dense and purple. Graphite notes and very dense. Some seductive perfume. Then very ripe start with lots of ripeness. Very firm and confident and pure. Fine stones, very precise. Sucky stones. Still very cool, very neat, very fine. Masses of density stops it being painfully dry on the finish. Very fine sleek and dense – well back on track after '07 by Latour'! One of the most polished Latours but very Latour. Very healthy. Health juice.
Ch Mouton Rothschild 2008 Pauillac 18.5- Drink 2018-32
Tighter and denser than the Petit Mouton with hidden depths and less obvious seduction. Very neat and firm with some fine polishing of texture and definite minerality at its core. Dry finish. Very fresh and neat. Finer boned than many Moutons – almost playing the Lafite card. All very introvert but nothing flashy. I found myself swallowing this at 9.20am! Well done.
Ch Lafite 2008 Pauillac 17.5+ Drink 2015-30
Cabernet Sauvignon 83%, Merlot just 13%.
Subtle purplish crimson. Sumptuous nose – almost Mouton-like (whereas Mouton seems to be making a more Lafite-like wine in 2008). Richer and riper than some earlier vintages of Lafite with even a hint of sweetness. Medium tannins and a dry finish but not the ballerina-like lift that I associate with Lafite. Not much lift or real aromatic interest – but perhaps we were too hurried through the tasting room to appreciate its finer points? Both Julia and Steven Spurrier tasting alongside me were more enthusiastic.
Ch Grand-Puy Ducasse 2008 Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2014-26
Unusual black pepper note. Then sweet and succulent. Lots of work on the texture here. What's not to like? Such an opulent yet well balanced whole. Very clean, fresh and cleansing. Vibrant. Great balance. Big.
Ch Pichon Lalande (Comtesse) 2008 Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2015-25
Dense crimson with a slightly weak rim. Scented, aromatic. Just 29% Merlot but this seems very fleshy and seductive. Not the firmest 2008 though there were dry tannins on the finish. A little lighter than some – a rather different, less dense wine than some more ambitious 2008 Pauillacs – but should give lots of pleasure. Very rich and round and flattering. There is ripeness and real charm here too. Impressive length.
Ch Pontet-Canet 2008 Pauillac17+ Drink 2013-20
Expressive dark fruit and sweet citrus freshness. Deep and mouthfilling, deep pile tannins, finishing fresh and satisfying. Plenty of freshness on the finish. (JH)
Ch Duhart-Milon 2008 Pauillac 17+ Drink 2013-22
Purple. Extremely deep colour – deeper than Lafite! Fine, scented, aromatic and flattering on the nose. Lovely texture. Rather forward and fine tannined. Powdery texture. Lots of Cabernet (73%) but very ripe Cabernet. Very fine and neat – truly baby Lafite, except that of course it tastes much less embryonic in terms of development than its stablemate Lafite. A very successful seductive Duhart-Milon. Great balance.
Ch Pichon-Longueville (Baron) 2008 Pauillac 17+ Drink 2018-30
Very vibrant blueish purple. Complete and neat. Low key but in the same idiom as Latour with 71% Cabernet Sauvignon. Tight and dry and not at all flashy. Serious stuff. May well develop into something really quite considerable.
Ch Batailley 2008 Pauillac 17 Drink 2013-23
Dense, complex crimson. Interesting, putty nose. Lots of intrigue here. Plush, broad, complex flavours already. Very lively. Sweet though more acid than tannin in evidence.
Ch Haut-Bages Libéral 2008 Pauillac 17 Drink 2014-16
Very dark but healthy. Smells a bit like a Dão - something vaguely goaty! Sumptuous fruit and texture – black berries – what a lot of work has gone into this super-polished wine. Well done! Lots of interest but maybe could do with very slightly more freshness for an even higher score. Certainly makes a statement... Big and dense.
Ch Lynch Bages 2008 Pauillac 16.5+ Drink 2016-26
Quite brutal smelling. Then rich and sweet and silky at first but followed by lots of acidity. A bit green and awkward. Very drying finish. Needs lots of time. Not charming at the moment... though it's certainly solid and gets better toward the end.
Saint Julien
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Ch Léoville Las Cases 2008 St-Julien 18 Drink 2018-35
Extremely deep blackish crimson. Spicy oak on the nose – very intense. Then amazingly opulent on the nose. Round and dense and dramatic. Like a cross between mulberries and tarmacadam. The Cabernets were naturally more than 13% apparently. Real excitement. Neat though not extraordinarily long finish. Still very, very youthful. The finish is very dry and brooding but much more supple than some earlier vintages.
Ch Léoville Las Cases, Clos du Marquis 2008 St-Julien 17 Drink 2016-28
Second wine. Dense purplish crimson. Heady nose and very succulent fruit sort of hangs in the atmosphere in the most admirable way. Really pretty exciting! Lots of effort has clearly gone into this wine; it's not just a slop bucket. Not too hot, nor (just) too tannic. Lots of breed and family style. Opulent. Jean-Hubert Delon describes this, like the 2007, as very Pauillac. Very fragrant.
Ch Beychevelle 2008 St-Julien 17 Drink 2014-24
Quite aromatic. Very neat. Lovely sweetness on the front and a perfume. Great balance. Fine tannins. Fresh without being tart. Very well put together even if not the most extreme 2008.
Ch Ducru-Beaucaillou 2008 St-Julien 17 Drink 2016-30
85% Cabernet Sauvignon. 90% new oak. Seven different coopers. Only 35 out of an estate total of 100ha goes into this wine now, though it used to be much more (before La Croix existed as a distinct entity).
Impressive density with a pale purple rim. Aromatic and dry but with a lot of rich, velvety mass in the middle. Pretty impressive! Marginally flashy but really makes a splash. Dry finish. Very firm with lots of dry tannin. Pretty confident and savoury.. Wait! Ambitious. Very 'masculine'.
Ch Gruaud Larose 2008 St-Julien 17 Drink 2013-21
Mid crimson with a pale rim. Very sweet for a St-Julien. Almost right bank ripeness. Sweet start. Not as classical as most St-Juliens. More forward and winning! Attractive drink for the medium term. Hint of chocolate even. Medium charge of tannins. Polished silky texture. Very beguiling.
Ch Langoa Barton 2008 St-Julien 16.5+ Drink 2014-20
Dark and concentrated. Wild flowers and dark and dangerous aromas. Sweet foxglove start – definitely floral – and then slightly hollow. Drying finish. Not quite complete, though competent enough. Very dry finish but lots of personality.
Ch Léoville Barton 2008 St-Julien 16.5+ Drink 2014-19
Purplish with a lightish rim. Quite integrated nose. Well balanced. Some savour though no great intensity. Very fine tannins and good balance even if not a very firm imprint of personality. Marked tannins on the finish without a great weight of exciting fruit.
Ch Branaire Ducru 2008 St-Julien 16.5 Drink 2014-28
Quite brutal and vegetal on the nose. Great density and extreme youth. Just a hint of oak. Thick and pretty earthbound at the moment with marked acidity.
Ch Lagrange 2008 St-Julien 16.5 Drink 2012-19
Crimson. Sweet and aromatic on the nose. Very flattering. Fine tannins and lots of flesh without being specious. A bit forward but attractive in the short term.
Ch Lalande Borie 2008 St-Julien 16.5 Drink 2014-22
Quite dark crimson. Scented, perfumed. Some sweet notes. Very clean and well selected. Not enormously dry or intense but unusually luscious for 2008.
Ch St-Pierre 2008 St-Julien 16.5 Drink 2015-22
Mid healthy crimson. Looks very exciting! Sweet and light on the nose. Unctuous, great texture and very seductive but perhaps not the most typical St-Julien. Just a little awkward with the sweetness and acidity not married - yet. A certain inkiness.
Ch Léoville Poyferré 2008 St-Julien 16- Drink 2013-19
Dark crimson. Rather raw on the nose – some underripe fruit? Sweet start then a bit rhubarby – smashed fruit. Fades very fast.
Margaux
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Ch Palmer 2008 Margaux 18 Drink 2014-26
Dark and glowing. Quite grown up and sophisticated. Draws you in on the nose – much more compelling than most 2008s. Sweet start - 51% Merlot! – very unusually high for 2008 and for Palmer. The opposite of Ch Margaux. Actually quite Ornellaia like, very soft and rich. Very seductive and lively. With velvety texture. Neat and energetic. Cool, even slightly minty. Really lots of pleasure. Even if quite unusual. The Palmer team love it – not least because it was so difficult. Italian bite. (Not that this will be a popular tasting note in Margaux.) Quite electric. 13.4%.
Ch Margaux 2008 Margaux 17.5+ Drink 2020-35
87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot.
Bright crimson. Rather opulent on the nose – hints of tobacco – and a little more burly and savoury than usual, perhaps because of less Merlot flesh. Dry start with the same backbone as the Pavillon Rouge. Firm, very fine tannins. No shortage of acidity. Mainly structure at the moment. Very clean but very youthful. Great freshness. Purity but I do feel we are tasting this too young. It should take on a bit more flesh. Very straight backed. Very fresh. Very embryonic.
Ch Giscours 2008 Margaux 17.5 Drink 2014-27
Healthy crimson. Already quite complex, seductive aromas. Fresh start with real spring in its step – energetic and lively and very well balanced yet with real intrigue still to be revealed. Good wine. Neat finish. Tightly packed. Limpid – wonderful confidence!
Ch Malescot St-Exupéry 2008 Margaux 17+ Drink 2013-23
Purple crimson. Rich and meaty on the nose – quite complex. Lots of life and nerve in here – really energetic and demanding. Great interest and complexity bubbling away beneath the surface. Long and exciting. Quite forward – perhaps because of the sheer weight of fruit.
Ch d'Angludet 2008 Margaux 17 Drink 2014-28
Deep purplish crimson. Fragrant, scented, complete – elderberries again. Very opulent but good freshness too and some very ripe tannins. Real zip on the finish. An admirably complete wine. Long. Perhaps a little less classical than some but very well sculpted.
Ch d'Issan 2008 Margaux 17 Drink 2014-20
68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot.
Mild, ripe nose. Silky texture and great freshness. Attractive, complete, confident wine. Very Margaux. Or do I mean very Cantenac?
Ch Marojallia 2008 Margaux 17 Drink 2013-22
Black like you have never seen Margaux. Intense dark cassis. The freshness and fluidity is a welcome surprise after the expectation of unrelenting power. It is very concentrated and powerfully extracted, with a big firmly built structure but it is still balanced in its power. (JH)
Ch Palmer, Alter Ego de Palmer 2008 Margaux 17 Drink 2012-18
Not made to age faster but to be enjoyed younger! They adapt extraction to have a tannin structure that will not be too harsh in the first five or six years. Less pumping over, cooler temperatures, less extraction. They choose to make it especially aromatic. Has it changed? Yes, at the beginning it was just marketing but since then we have changed the vinification deliberately. Had to chaptalise two cuves of Cabernet by 0.5%.
Impressive crimson. Fresh and dense and lively on the nose. Polished and just the merest hint of green. Bit of meat extract. Pretty nice and opulent and ripe. 13%
Ch Prieuré-Lichine 2008 Margaux 16.5+ Drink 2014-22
Blackish. Unusually, strong blackcurrant aromas. Blackcurrant juice in fact, with the right balance of acid and some fairly prominent tannins. Dry end and at the moment the range of flavours is just a little too narrow but this may well develop in bottle. Nice opulence without being sweet.
Ch Rauzan-Gassies 2008 Margaux 16.5 Drink 2013-22
Distinctive wild flowers nose. Well balanced. Quite chewy. Polished and interesting. Neat and tight. Very dry finish. Real life here! Though, as usual, quite marked acidity. Not for those who seek opulence.
Ch Rauzan-Ségla 2008 Margaux 16.5 Drink 2012-18
Lightly fragrant. Not especially intense but well balanced though pretty forward. Sudden finish. Easy wine for relatively early consumption. Neat, long finish. It's all on the end with this wine. Great complex finish.
Pessac-Léognan Rouge
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Ch Haut-Brion 2008 Pessac-Léognan Rouge 18 Drink 2018-34
41% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc.
Much deeper colour than La Mission 2008. Really powerful dark purple colour. Minerals and lightness of touch on the nose. The most solid red from this stable but a little muted at this stage. Very firm, even slightly austere Cabernet tannins and pretty drying on the finish. Far from opulent. Needs, like La Mission, to put on a bit of flesh. Medium persistence. Impressive purity of fruit – the opposite of tarted up.
Ch La Mission Haut-Brion 2008 Pessac-Léognan Rouge 18 Drink 2015-29
43% Merlot, 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc.
Dark crimson. Lightly fragrant with a hint of tea leaves. Now this is elegant! But it's rather different from old La Missions. Much more polished and suave. Once this puts on weight it should come into better balance. At the moment it's perhaps just a little too light, but is certainly marvellously pure and has a wonderful line along the palate.
Ch Larrivet Haut-Brion 2008 Pessac-Léognan Rouge 17.5 Drink 2015-27
Dark crimson with a pale rim. Sweet fruit plus tar on the nose. Very sweet and opulent start – almost syrupy! Really quite remarkable because there is also enough freshness here and lots of ripe tannins. Hugely ambitious. Takes this appellation to a new place. Not nearly as classical as La Mission and Haut-Brion but almost a surfeit of pleasure. Long with a fan of flavours.
Dom de la Passion Haut-Brion 17.5 Drink 2013-20
The wine from the recently reclaimed enclave in the Haut-Brion vineyard vinified by Stephane Derenoncourt.
Trademark round, delicate, relatively soft texture and none of the density of Haut-Brion but there is some tobacco leaf Pessac savour - and even a hint of warm bricks on the finish. One to watch.
Ch Bouscaut 2008 Pessac-Léognan Rouge 17 Drink 2015-23
Brilliant purple. Something a little 'singed' on the nose and then a hint of leafiness on the palate. Lots of tannin – pretty ripe tannin. Then very fluid texture with lots of juice. Pretty ambitious and persistent.
Dom de Chevalier 2008 Pessac-Léognan Rouge 17+ Drink 2014-20
Very dark purple indeed. Attractive savour and life on the nose but a little bit green on the palate. Round but marked by acidity and less than opulent tannins but very polished and savoury. A bit too muscular? Fades on the finish. A little more flashy than previous vintages of Domaine de Chevalier than I remember. But it grew in the glass.
Ch Haut-Bailly 2008 Pessac-Léognan Rouge 17 Drink 2013-22
Rather pale rim. Interesting savour. Well balanced. Very harmonious and polished with lots of ripe fruit and the (considerable) tannins well hidden. Glossy stuff. What's not to like? Though it's not a blockbuster.
Ch Smith Haut Lafitte 2008 Pessac-Léognan Rouge 16.5++ Drink 2015-28
Something a little cheesy on the nose. Sweet start but a lack of concentration. A little slack. Rather green tannins. A bit austere. But confident and with real attack and bite. Lots there. All on the finish. Impressive on the finish, which makes me think I may have underrated it. Absolutely no tartiness. This seemed an especially pure Smith, quite a departure from some previous vintages, or a next step on the road for Smith: less seductive and going for pure individuality.
Ch Pape Clément 2008 Pessac-Léognan Rouge 16.5! Drink 2014-24
Very dark purple. Unusually ripe purple berry aromas. Very sweet and luscious and not especially bordeaux but capable of giving lots of pleasure. Fine, dry tannins. Difficult stylistic question, rating this wine. It's almost more right bank than Graves but so long as you know that in advance and aren't expecting a classic refreshing Graves, you could find it rewarding.
Ch Haut-Bergey 2008 Pessac-Léognan Rouge 16+ Drink 2015-25
Low key fruit and a hint of some strangely spicy oak. Very opulent start and extremely polished texture, then masses of tannin. Embryonic. Just a little sour on the finish. Not really together yet.
Pessac-Léognan Blanc
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Ch Haut-Brion 2008 Pessac-Léognan Blanc 17.5+ Drink 2012-22
55% Semillon, 45% Sauvignon Blanc.
Golden tinge. For a 2008 white, this is relatively fat. Passion fruit nose. Really racy and vibrant.
Ch Haut-Bergey 2008 Pessac-Léognan Blanc 17 Drink 2011-14
Smoky and lightly oily grapefruit nose. Intense, zesty and fine. Oak really restrained but adds weight and texture. Fresh and tight and persistent. (JH)
Ch Carbonnieux 2008 Pessac-Léognan Blanc 17.5 Drink 2011-15
Lightly mineral/smoky and a little reduced at this stage but with fine grapefruit aromas. Fine, concentrated, zesty and focused but spreads well in the mouth without an ounce of fat. Tight and minerally and long. (JH) Stinky and catty and very Sauvignon but pretty pure - for purists and for those who want to toast the late André Perrin - JR
Dom de Chevalier 2008 Pessac-Léognan Blanc 17.5 Drink 2011-18
Spicy and a little oily on the nose but also fresh citrus and cedar. Marked freshness with tight fresh grapefruit flavours, perhaps just a little reductive but appropriately so at this stage in its evolution. Lovely long tangy finish. (JH)
Ch Smith Haut Lafitte 2008 Pessac-Léognan Blanc 17 Drink 2010-15
Very precise in terms of acidity but hugely much more flattering than most 2008s in terms of breadth of fruit. Very complete - really rather puts the others in their place. Nice oak judgement. Though maybe not for the very long term.
Ch Larrivet Haut-Brion 2008 Pessac-Léognan Blanc 17 Drink 2009-14
Big, ripe and flashy. Very round and a competently different style from, for example, Domaine de Chevalier. All extrovert and opulent and quite a lot of fun.
Ch Malartic Lagravière 2008 Pessac-Léognan Blanc 17- Drink 2011-15
Both citrus and savoury aromas (oak and fruit). Pretty grippy around the gums. Very determined but could do with a little more depth of fruit as well to fill out the mid palate, hence the minus. Fine and minerally on the finish. (JH)
Ch Couhins-Lurton 2008 Pessac-Léognan Blanc 16.5 Drink 2013-20
Smoky. Quite light and yet very well balanced and restrained with a strong green mineral note. Quite long. Wait!
Ch de Cruzeau 2008 Pessac-Léognan Blanc 16.5 Drink 2011-16
Very mineral and lean and rangy. Transparent but very well balanced.
Ch Ferran 2008 Pessac-Léognan Blanc 16.5 Drink 2010-13
Smoky nose. Very tight and green and transparent with a hint of very ripe pears and lots of pizzazz.
Ch de Fieuzal 2008 Pessac-Léognan Blanc 16.5 Drink 2011-14
Oily Sémillon nose and spice aromas. Broad flavoured but with fine acidity to balance. Tight, mineral intensity and reasonable fruit weight on the mid palate. Dry, elegant finish. (JH)
Ch de France 2008 Pessac-Léognan Blanc 16.5 Drink 2010-14
Spiced, honeyed citrus, pretty ripe on the nose. Tangy, dry and grainy mineral flavours. Pure, fresh citrus in the mouth leading to a long mineral finish. Much fresher on the palate than I expected from the nose. (JH)
Ch La Garde 2008 Pessac-Léognan Blanc 16.5 Drink 2011-15
Smoky mineral notes and good density. Dry chalky finish. Very serious, and likely to be good value.
Ch Latour Martillac 2008 Pessac-Léognan Blanc 16.5 Drink 2010-13
Citrus and herbal, veering towards box tree aromas. Cedary and fresh. Intense and seemingly powerful on the palate though the power is mainly in the attack. Fades rather quickly aside from the extreme freshness on the finish. (JH)
Ch Olivier 2008 Pessac-Léognan Blanc 16.5 Drink 2009-13
Stinky, oily nose with much more weight and fat than most. Rich yet lively. Maybe not for the very long term but lots of pleasure in the short term.
Ch Pape Clément 2008 Pessac-Léognan Blanc 16 Drink 2009-13
Deeper gold than most. Sweet, full, broad nose with a hint of smoke. Exotic tropical fruits - a bit too much sweetness and bâtonnage? Flattering but very unusual for the vintage. Much richer and more alcoholic. In fact lots of pear juice and alcohol on the finish. Sweet. Not that appetising.
Graves Blanc
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Ch Laville Haut-Brion 2008 Graves Blanc 17.5 Drink 2013-20
79% Semillon, 21% Sauvignon Blanc.
Greenish tinge. Firm grapefruit aromas, then attractive fruit weight on the palate. Green streak. Very cleansing! Mineral finish. Skinnier than many other years. Very brisk and bracing.
Clos Floridène 2008 Graves Blanc 17 Drink 2010-14
Denis Dubourdieu wine. Ripe melon and citrus fruit. Zesty and bright. Lovely freshness complemented by light oak spice and a creamy, leesy fullness on the mid palate. Tight just now but still long. (JH)
Ch Bouscaut 2008 Graves Blanc 16.5 Drink 2011-15
Intense aromas of spice and inviting apricot and orange notes but perhaps a little too broad. Broad, rich and dense on the palate. Plenty of spicy oak but it is filled out by firm fruit. Tangy length and freshness to finish. Makes its mark but a little too woody for me. (JH)
Ch de Chantegrive, Clos Caroline 2008 Graves Blanc 16.5 Drink 2010-15
Rich, fat, exciting. Pear juice and very smooth. Rich finish. Hint of apple skin but more weight than most.
Ch Rahoul 2008 Graves Blanc 16.5 Drink 2010-16
Toasty oak at first, then fresh citrus follows. Dense, tangy, dry and finely spiced. Pure, minerally, tight and long. Very fresh, highly strung. (JH)
Bordeaux Blanc
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Ch Valandraud, Blanc de Valandraud No 1 2008 Bordeaux Blanc 17 Drink 2012-16
50% Semillon, 50% Sauvignon Blanc.
Strong grapefruit and directed. Grown just outside the St-Émilion appellation. Pretty ripe grapes but not fat. Quite exciting tension with lots of minerality. Dense. Long. Quite powerful.
Ch Monbousquet 2008 Bordeaux Blanc 17 Drink 2010-12
Highly aromatic thanks to the two thirds Sauvignon but quite full in the mouth. Maybe a little heavy but hard to taste after the Pavie. Pretty powerful. And long. Creamy and full in the mouth with a fine citrus streak. (JH)
Ch Margaux, Pavillon Blanc de Ch Margaux 2008 Bordeaux 17 Drink 2016-24
Pale greenish gold. Lots of acidity and more minerals than usual but with passion fruit too. Very firm and tight. Chalky finish. Bracing. Not as potent as some other recent vintages.
Ch Reynon 2008 Bordeaux Blanc 17 Drink 2010-13
With Sauvignon Blanc prominently on the label. Denis Dubourdieu's wine.
Fresh, intense grapefruit and grapefruit pith aroma plus a mineral note. Dry, intense and more mineral on the palate. Very persistent. (JH)
Dourthe, No 1 Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Bordeaux Blanc 16.5 Drink 2010-11
Maybe a little reduced at the moment on the nose. Very tight, very crisp and fresh. A slightly grainy texture and good length but a little one-dimensional? (JH)
Ch Mont-Pérat 2008 Bordeaux Blanc 16.5 Drink 2010-12
Tastes much richer than most Bordeaux Blanc. Intense grapefruit and smoky reductive notes but very full and creamy and rich and long and powerful. Plenty of oak. Maybe a bit hot on the finish? (JH)
Ch Thieuley, Cuvée Francis Courselle 2008 Bordeaux Blanc 16.5 Drink 2010-12
A little smoky and mineral but mainly ripe citrus on the nose, though there is also a grassy element. Grainy, tight and crisp. Refreshing with moderate concentration, mouthwatering finish. (JH)
Ch Cos d'Estournel Blanc 2008 Bordeaux Blanc 16 Drink 2011-15
80% Sauvignon Blanc.
Very pale gold. Fatter than many 2008 whites with just a hint of catty stink. Lots of greenness and even some leafiness. Tight but much more interest than the average Bordeaux Blanc. Oak seems very low key. Tends to be expensive...
Sauternes & Barsac
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Ch d'Yquem 2008 Sauternes 18 Drink 2018-36
Quiet on the nose. More spiced pear and apricot than orange. Lovely concentration. Spiced power, depth and quite warm on the finish. Fresh in a powerful rather than a delicate way. Dense and long. Rich and well integrated oak though there's lots of spice all the way through. A less delicate style than many in this vintage. (JH)
Ch Climens 2008 Barsac 18 Drink 2016-36
As every year, the final blend has not been made and the tasting at the châteaux is of various barrel samples of individual lots picked on different dates, even at different times of the day. Harvesting took place 30 Sep to 30 Oct with just 4 tries or picking phases, with 57% of the harvest gathered in the 4 days of the second phase (21, 22, 26, 27 Oct). The total harvest was 122 barrels, split into 13 lots, a little lower than the average of the last 10 years. Yield was 11 ha/ha.
The first tri was generally richer and more fruity than the others. My favourite lot was perhaps less concentrated than recent vintages but with a delicate floral character and lovely brightness and elegance. The slightly lower concentration seemed to allow an attractive liveliness. All six lots tasted were quite distinct, some more marked by oak than others, so it's hard to draw a conclusion on how the final blend will taste but this selection of possible components suggests a fresh, bright lightly floral wine, still with excellent intensity and lovely apricot botrytis depth but a little less rich than the 2007 and none the worse for that. (JH)
Ch Doisy-Daëne 2008 Sauternes 17.5 Drink 2014-30
Pale gold. Peachy/apricot nose, quite delicate. The rich and concentrated on the palate, brisk and racy and full of life; lovely clean fresh finish. Very attractive and one of my favourites of the tasting. (JH)
Ch de Fargues 2008 Sauternes 17.5 Drink 2016-30
Quite deeply coloured and intense aromas of orange and spiced honey. Rich, powerful, broad and quite spicy though still finishes fresh. Full, concentrated, rich and long with a slight and attractive bitterness of orange pith on the finish. (JH)
Ch Suduiraut 2008 Sauternes 17.5 Drink 2016-28
Honeyed lemon aroma. Very sweet and orange flavoured. Pure rather than complex at the moment but lots of spice on the finish and fine freshness despite the lightly oily finish. (JH)
Ch Doisy-Védrines 2008 Barsac 17 Drink 2016-28
Spicy/sour lemon nose. Very pure citrus flavours, then richer orange depth and concentration. Pure, reasonably concentrated and fresh to the end. (JH)
Ch d'Arche 2008 Sauternes 17 Drink 2014-26
Oily lemon aromas, a hint of linseed. Then concentrated, spicy and fresh on the palate. Good depth and freshness combined. (JH)
Ch Guiraud 2008 Sauternes 17 Drink 2016-28
Broad, intense spiced citrus. Bright and racy and pure. Well balanced and moderate length. Dense and viscous and tangy. (JH)
Ch Haut-Peyraguey 2008 Sauternes 17- Drink 2016-28
Oily and a tad woody at first. Sweet/sour on the palate. Concentrated and well balanced with lots of spice on the end. Full-flavoured and rich. Very sweet and thick and rich rather than elegant. (JH)
Ch de Malle 2008 Sauternes 17 Drink 2016-30
Freshly aromatic - citrus and pineapple. Concentrated and zesty with a note of spice (ginger?) on the palate. Lovely fresh zip and length. Mouthwatering finish. (JH)
Ch Nairac 2008 Barsac 17 Drink 2016-28
Very cloudy sample - looks more like apple juice. Honey and lemon cold remedy aromas but also fresh apple and pear. Intense orange and lemon zest on the palate. Full flavoured, crisp, concentrated and long. (JH)
Ch Rieussec 2008 Sauternes 17 Drink 2016-28
Intense orange and apricot botrytis flavours with lots of spice on the tip of the tongue. Creamy depth and fine fresh length. Very pure to the end. Rich with lots of pleasure. (JH)
Ch Sigalas Rabaud 2008 Sauternes 17 Drink 2016-30
Bright zesty apricot. Oily and spiced and quite viscous. Lots of barley sugar flavour and depth. Concentrated with a mouthwateringly fresh finish, quite a bit of oak. (JH)
Ch Bastor-Lamontagne 2008 Sauternes 16.5 Drink 2014-22
More delicate on the nose, pears and grapefruit. Then grapefruit pith zest, almost sourness on the palate but not in an unpleasant way. Much lighter than Ch de Fargues tasted immediately before this but quite an elegant, fresh finish. (JH)
Ch Caillou 2008 Sauternes 16.5 Drink 2014-28
Citrus and lightly mineral on the nose. Then broad and spiced on the palate, good depth of fruit, orange pith zest at the end. Moderate weight in the middle and then a long finish. (JH)
Ch Coutet 2008 Barsac 16.5 Drink 2013-23
Fat and oily, rich and full flavoured but quite elegant in the mouth, perhaps lacking a little in acidity to balance the breadth. Soft peachy finish. (JH)
Ch Filhot 2008 Sauternes 16.5 Drink 2014-26
Bright and orangey on the nose. But then a little bitter on the mid palate but finishes fresh and zesty. (JH)
Ch Lafaurie-Peyraguey 2008 Sauternes 16.5 Drink 2016-28
Cloudy. Bright and zesty on the nose but richer and more oily on the palate. Firm and dense. Just fresh enough. (JH)
Ch Lamothe-Guignard 2008 Sauternes 16.5 Drink 2014-22
Not much on the nose. Just a hint of citrus, then rather bitter on the palate, like lemon zest. Fresh finish, pure citrus fruit, moderate concentration and quite good length. (JH)
Ch de Myrat 2008 Sauternes 16.5 Drink 2016-24
Deeper gold with orange intensity on the nose. Plenty of botrytis and spice and broad in the mouth and good freshness to balance that weight. Long. (JH)
Ch Partarrieu 2008 Sauternes 16.5 Drink 2011-18
Fragrant apricots and pineapple. Rich and viscous but still fresh and clean. More sweet than botrytised. Nice bitter lemon pith finish, just enough acidity. (JH)
Ch Rabaud-Promis 2008 Sauternes 16.5 Drink 2014-22
Honeyed. Broad in the mouth but with moderate concentration, though there's a bright fresh apricot length and zesty finish. (JH)
Ch de Rayne Vigneau 2008 Sauternes 16.5 Drink 2016-28
Not especially aromatic on the nose but fresh and bright citrus fruit in the mouth. Rich, viscous and full and finishes pretty fresh still. (JH)
Ch Suau 2008 Barsac 16.5 Drink 2014-26
Peachy nose, barley-sugar flavours but also quite spicy and a fresh racy finish. Moderate concentration but good length and balance. (JH)