Archive Releases

29 April 2010

The Inevitable Impact (We Fear) following Parker's 2009 Bordeaux Scores

Yesterday, we added Robert Parker's 2009 Bordeaux report and scores to our web site, which makes for essential reading. In summary, Parker agrees with most by declaring the 2009 vintage as something rather special however, obviously lacking the consistency of the 2005's. He goes on to state that "for some Médocs and Graves, 2009 may turn out to be the finest vintage I have tasted in 32 years of covering Bordeaux" and "the peaks of quality in 2009 may turn out to be historic"

Robert Parker also agreed with the masses that the 2009 vintage (as a whole) fell short of "greatness" due to the inconsistencies, which were found in the appellations of Pomerol and St-Emilion. He goes on to say that "some profound wines have been made, but overall, 2009 may just barely edge out 2008, and in the long term play runner-up to 2005 in both Pomerol and St.-Emilion. Yet, as the specific tasting notes clearly indicate, there are always exceptions to these broad generalities"

Again, it's difficult to disagree with Parker's comments as we found some truly extraordinary wines on the Right-Bank. Châteaux Ausone (our wine of the vintage) and Cheval Blanc stood proudly above their neighbours. However, what I do find a little odd is of the 22 incredible wines, which all have the potential to garner the magical 100 points; the wines from the Right-Bank just overshadow their Left-Bank neighbours!

In most parts, we agree with Parker's 'highest' Left-Bank scores. Château Pontet Canet (Z&B's perennial favourite and our biggest selling wine during last years campaign with over 300 cases sold) receives an incredible 97-100. We also thought Châteaux Montrose, Leoville Poyferre, Comtesse Lalande, Leoville Las Cases and all the first-growths merit such enormous scores however, we're a little disappointed with Mouton Rothschild score of 96-98+ as we placed Mouton above Lafite and Haut Brion (all receiving 98-100).

Château Cos d'Estournel takes over from Pavie as the most controversial wine of the vintage. I tasted the wine on two separate occasions during the week of 29th March. My first experience of their 2009 was at a private négociants tasting – It was a very relaxed (seated) environment with no other wine merchant insight (the perfect environment). I found the wine over-worked and to be brutally honest, horrendous! Interestingly, James Suckling awarded 97-100 prior to my tasting, which was at the back of my mind as I lifted the glass to my lips – How could I get this so wrong?

I re-tasted the wine a few days later at Château Cos d'Estournel and found myself literally shuddering over the wines obvious OTT style. Robert Parker awards (98-100*) and describes "The 2009 Cos d'Estournel is one of the greatest young wines I have ever tasted ... in the world" Perhaps Jean-Guillaume Prats has got it spot-on by producing a wine for the "American" palate however, I take some solace from Neal Martins score (89-91) and Jancis score (16.5+) that I personally haven't lost my palate! The 2009 shows no resemblance to a Saint-Estèphe or a Bordeaux wine whatsoever – Be Warned!

So, back to my heading concerning "The Inevitable Impact (We Fear) following Parker's 2009 Bordeaux Scores"

I took the opportunity to fly back to Bordeaux earlier this week (prior to Parkers release) with the expectation of thrashing out Z&B's position with our preferred négociant. The topic of "allocations" was number one of my agenda. Fortunately, during last years En-Primeur campaign (our most successful to date) we purchased large quantities of Pontet Canet, Montrose, Leoville Las Cases, Ducru Beaucaillou, Pavie, Cheval Blanc, Comtesse Lalande, as much first- growths and Ausone as we could muster. Consequently, this places us in an enviable position (Given Parker's huge scores for these wines) as we should receive the same allocations vis-a vis.

Interestingly, the topic of "Tranches" came up during our discussion concerning the non first-growths. Last year, Château Pontet Canet released their 2008 in tranches, which is unheard of for a fifth-growth however, Pontet Canet is a much coveted wine these days and thought they could play the same game as the first-growths. It would be remiss of me to say that it was an absolute success, but Pontet Canet did sell many cases at the higher second tranche price.

Consequently, the current feeling (although, its important to point out that this is only conjecture) is that many other high-scoring Châteaux will follow suit this year – I suppose it would make commercial sense for Châteaux Montrose, Cos d'Estournel, Las Cases etcetera to sell their wine in tranches however, they've got to get their "opening" price spot-on therefore, ensuring the demand for more tranches is high. The downside (if indeed this does happen) is that the campaign will be excruciatingly slow and that we may be unable to offer such wines until we have received our full allocations (from the various tranches). Naturally, we will keep you posted and will ask for your patience should we head down this route!

Prices: It's impossible to start accurately talking about prices although, Parker's enormous scores have ensured that some Château owners can and will charge an awful lot for their coveted 2009's. It would be accurate to state that the 2009's will be on-par, if not higher than the 2005's. Moreover, we sadly have to factor in the poor exchange rate!

Wish List: We have received an unprecedented level of demand this year, which on the one hand is exciting however, on the other hand, we're too savvy and are fully aware that many of these "new" buyers won't be around next year. It's thrilling to work with new friends who plan to work with Z&B in years to come and we will do our utmost to support your wishes however, priority will be given to last years buyers first. Please see our "Rules of Engagement" for further details.

Let's raise a toast to an exciting (even though a possibly painful) time ahead!