Archive Releases

20 April 2009

Last week was unlike any En-Primeur campaign that I've personally been party to – It's the first the time that the first-growth's have led the charge, which on one-hand is motivating (the whole point given last years lacklustre campaign and global economic downturn) however, and when you actually examine the honesty, I actually think this years campaign (to-date) has been very frustrating to the point, whereby I actually believe that some négociants tactics have been inexcusable. . .

The négociant & merchant relationship is built over many years of trading and the whole ethos is to support one another during both the good and bad times – It's easy to sell vintages like the 2000's, 03's and 05's etcetera however, it's much harder to sell vintages like the 2006 and 07's, which naturally don't attract the same attention. There are certain countries, like the US for example, who passionately support the 'Parker' vintages, 2005 is the perfect example of the same however, where were they during the following years? Put simply, they were nowhere to be seen. It's a very similar story for many merchants' (including the British) during last year's difficult campaign – Some flatly refused to take their 'normal' allocations, which of course they are entitled to do however, they are now beating on the négociants door for their 'lost' allocations. . . There are some caveats to the négociant/ merchant En-Primeur allocation rules but at what and to who's cost?

Châteaux Mouton Rothschild and Margaux have purportedly released only 50% of last year's quantities into the market and Lafite Rothschild circa 60% - I believe Latour was more generous! As a consequence, the négociants have simply slashed Z&B's allocations by 50% against last year's allocations. The blame (the négociants defence) solely lies with a reduction is vintages quantity however, and as previously reported, reduced harvest yields were endemic throughout Bordeaux and not just subjected to the first-growths. If the négociants defence had any merit then why has all of our other non first-growth allocations remained the same?

Sadly, the simple truth is that some (and I do stress not all) négociants have sold first-growths to merchants' who did not support these wines during last years campaign – Of course they are entitled to sell to whom ever they want to but they are simply robbing Peter to supply Paul, which makes a mockery of their 'loyalty' system.

Z&B survives on client loyalty and we're deeply disturbed that we're sadly not currently in a position to supply our customers' on-par with last years purchases – Some reductions are accepted but 50% is not and the excuses are incomprehensible. We are still waiting for second tranche allocations, which may beef up our overall allocations and in same respect may heal some of the smaller grazes but the large open wound, that being pinching from our allocations, to give to others, who have not been continually supportive is going to take a long time to nurse back to health. . . If at all!

Perhaps it's time to walk away from dealing with négociants – what's the point if the relationship is so biased and dishonest? Moreover, and this is not a knee-jerk reaction or idle threat – Z&B are seriously considering cancelling every case of 2007 Bordeaux purchased En-Primeur from négociants who have not shown Z&B the same degree of loyalty during this years campaign. . .

This afternoon see's Margaux 'top' wine (this year), Château Palmer released @ £1,020.00 IB per case. . . I have to confess that's it's been difficult to actually price this wine as we're receiving conflicting offers from the négociants – As much as €60.00 difference per case, which is a clear indication that they're rather nervous with Palmer's pricing this year!

Palmer has received rave reviews from all the critics – Neal Martin awards a colossal 93-95, which is way out in front compared to Château Margaux (90-92). Jancis Robinson's scores it closer but the third-growth slightly edges Margaux out of pole position with 18.0 (Margaux receiving 17.5+). . . However, and to offer some perspective (if you're buying on points alone), James Suckling of the Wine Spectator puts Château Margaux firmly in the lead with 90-93, whilst Palmer receives a respectable 89-92.

Neal Martin says
"Very deep colour. Like the Alter Ego, the nose takes some coaxing from the glass, it is not as generous as the 2006 or 2007, rather this unfurls gracefully in the glass. Black cherries, violets with boysenberry and a touch of iodine. A slight clayey accent coming through. The palate is full-bodied, it has that same sense of energy, a real prickle on the tongue, very fresh and taut – tension. Firm tannins, again quite strict on the finish. Correct but supremely well focused. A certain austerity at the finish, but that will mellow out in time. Impressive (again)".

Jancis Robinson says
"Dark and glowing. Quite grown up and sophisticated. Draws you in on the nose – much more compelling than most 2008s. Sweet start - 51% Merlot! – very unusually high for 2008 and for Palmer. The opposite of Ch Margaux. Actually quite Ornellaia like, very soft and rich. Very seductive and lively. With velvety texture. Neat and energetic. Cool, even slightly minty. Really lots of pleasure. Even if quite unusual. The Palmer team love it – not least because it was so difficult. Italian bite. (Not that this will be a popular tasting note in Margaux.) Quite electric. 13.4%".

I would seriously consider Palmer's second wine, Altar Ego de Palmer, which we are delighted to offer @ £280.00 IB per case or £270.00 if two cases or more are purchased.

Neal Martin 90-92 (same as Chateau Margaux)
"Deep purple colour. The nose is reticent at first, takes some coaxing, ripe fleshy red fruit, a touch of damson, black cherry and blueberry. Nice definition but it remains tightly coiled. The palate is spicy, lovely prickle on the tongue, vibrant black fruits, lots of energy here. Good length. A little like a spring"

Jancis 17.0
"Not made to age faster but to be enjoyed younger! They adapt extraction to have a tannin structure that will not be too harsh in the first five or six years. Less pumping over, cooler temperatures, less extraction. They choose to make it especially aromatic. Has it changed? Yes, at the beginning it was just marketing but since then we have changed the vinification deliberately. Had to chaptalise two cuves of Cabernet by 0.5%. Impressive crimson. Fresh and dense and lively on the nose. Polished and just the merest hint of green. Bit of meat extract. Pretty nice and opulent and ripe. 13%"

We can also offer the following:

Lafon Rochet @ £220.00 IB per case
La Lagune @ £280.00 IB per case
Beychevelle @ £265.00 IB per case
Tertre @ £200.00 IB per case

NB: We've also included Jancis Robinson's tasting notes/& scores for:

Pessac-Léognan Blanc
Graves Blanc
Bordeaux Blanc
Sauternes & Barsac